As first time visitors to Paris, we knew exactly what to do.
We had to hit all the big sights: see the tower, cruise the river, stand under the Arc. Yes, we were “those” tourists.
But tourist-y places are tourist-y for a reason…because they are awesome. And yes, we were crawling over hundreds of other people to get the shot we wanted, but without cursing or faulting any single one of them.
It’s Paris! It deserves to be fully adored…
It is difficult to put words to the romance that Paris inspires. Perhaps we just need one.
It is not often, during this nomadic journey of ours, where we both 100% agree on places we could see ourselves settling in for awhile.
This may not be obvious to our regular readers as we often spout love for the destinations we visit. But, let’s be honest, travel is awesome. There are very rare occasions of our meeting a place that we don’t like. We’re glass-half-full people and it is pretty hard to disappoint us (with some exceptions).
But Poland, oh Poland. We became smitten with you in the north, what with your orgasmic pierogies in Gdynia, your very friendly residents, and your BEACHES. Who knew you had such gorgeous beaches?
Then we arrived in Warsaw, and while we typically aren’t big fans of larger cities, we felt very at home. We pained at the history, of Warsaw and its citizens being ravaged in WWII, but were encouraged by the outgoing friendliness of the residents. And while the historic downtown suffered a similar fate to Gdańsk – being completely destroyed and built back up – none of the appeal is lost. If anything, it is an enlightening example of the enduring power of the human spirit, to be able to persevere and completely reassemble a city from chaos and destruction.
Warsaw is almost one quarter green space, and the parks are something to behold. Lavish fountains, former palaces as museums, ample places to escape from the city without escaping from the city.
Every few stops on the tram seemed to open us up to an entirely new environment – across the river in Stara Praga were buildings not destroyed in the wars but still standing, some riddled with bullet holes. The style of Soviet realism is most apparent with arching blocks of massive buildings in the aptly coined area of Plac Hipstera (and still the odd neon sign). The neighbourhood of Saska Kepa appears the most liveable of all, with wide, inviting streets dotted with local shops. Each community far from the standard tourist eye, yet begging to be explored.
Stara PragaPlac HipsteraCafe canopy in Saska Kepa
And even though it’s a bit more expensive than other parts of Poland, it is still very cheap by European standards. Like, ridiculously so (I can’t believe more travellers aren’t here, especially given that there are so many things to do in Warsaw).
After ten days, we found ourselves looking at apartment rentals (but deeply scorning Schengen visa rules – why do you not want us Europe?) There are few places where we could see ourselves abiding long(ish) term – and Warsaw has become one of them.
Poland continues to amaze us. A quick day trip from Gdansk would bring us to the Malbork Castle of Knights, one of the biggest brick castles in Poland and the world! It’s another thing or place in our travels here to surprise us about this area of northern Poland: it is home to the largest castle in the world (by surface area).
Visiting the Malbork Castle of Knights
The Malbork Castle was built by the Teutonic Knights and completed in 1406 after the conquest of Old Prussia. It is a dominating presence on the banks of the Nogat River, having been expanded several times to accommodate the number of knights who resided there. It soon became the largest fortified Gothic building in Europe.
Throughout history, the castle has been a residence of the Polish Kings, used for barracks for the Prussian army, and as a destination for a pilgrimage for the Hitler Youth and League of German Girls.
After WWII, the castle again became a part of Poland and was reconstructed and restored after the damages of the war and a fire in 1959. The Malbork Castle now stands as the largest brick building in Europe.
How to Visit the Malbork Castle
Getting There
Visiting the Malbork Castle is easiest as a day trip from Gdansk. The castle is just over 50 km away from Gdansk, and trains are the easiest option. They frequently depart from Gdansk Glowny station, which takes between 45 and 60 minutes. The Regio trains are the cheapest but slowest, while InterCity (IC) trains offer a faster option for a slightly higher price. Once arriving at Malbork station, a leisurely 20-minute walk will take you directly to the castle.
Alternatively, you can drive to the castle in about thirty minutes, or some taxis will take you directly there.
Admission and Tickets
There are several options for admission to Malbork Castle.
Admission to the Malbork Castle is free on Mondays. Note that only the Green Route is available, and a guide or audio guide fee of PLN 15.00 applies and is mandatory.
Historical Route
Availability: Tuesday – Sunday from 9:00 am – 4:00 pm (last entrance at 1 pm)
This tour of the entire castle includes the price of a mandatory guide.
Normal ticket – PLN 70.00
Family ticket (2 adults + 2 children under 18) – PLN 220.00
Green route
The Green Route tour includes: part of the Outer Bailey, gate passages, courtyards of the Middle and High Castle, the chapel of St. Anne, terraces with the garden of the great masters, moat and zwinger. It does not include visits to chambers and exhibitions.
She packed her bags carefully this time, not in the usual haphazard stuffing of items into every corner. She wrapped cords in perfect coils and tried to remember every instruction that accompanied them. This is for the camera, this is for the tablet, this is for the GoPro. She’s used to having a doting husband who manages her messy electronics so that they don’t end in a tangled mess.
But this time, she was traveling solo.
She arrived in Rhode Island safely and with all items intact. She didn’t leave her phone on the plane (she’s done that before) or her tablet (yeah, that’s happened too). She checked and double checked to ensure everything was tucked away where it should be.
The lady left the plane and boarded a small cruise ship, her home for the next 16 days, and unpacked just as carefully. The space would naturally turn into a mess throughout the trip, but she kept most mindful of where the vitals were. She charged batteries nightly, backed up her photos not quite nightly, but more frequently than she ever would have.
She was nervous.
She was nervous for embarking on the longest solo trip she’d ever taken. For being lonely. For losing something. And most certainly, for not being able to keep up to a standard of photography set by her talented husband.
Yet she would soon discover that she had nothing to be nervous for. The remarkable itinerary for this trip would offer the opportunity for her to take some of the most beautiful photos she ever snapped.
Sunset on the Atlantic Coastline.Lock 11 on the Erie Canal.Somewhere along the Erie Canal.
Behind this solo lady photographer were two men to support her. One, the onboard photographer to help chase down good spots for sunset and encourage her newfound enthusiasm. The other, her patient husband who edited her photos for Instagram and this blog post.
Oh, and to answer desperate texts as speedily as possible.
I’m on the pier and want to get softer water, what setting do I use?
Balance your exposure, use a small aperture.
Did that, still not working.
Then lower your shutter speed.
Oh screw it, she said, packing up her gear. She could hear her husband’s laughter on the other end of a text, mocking her familiar impatience, which infuriated her even more. She stayed to try again, but with no notable result. In guileless defeat, she blamed the old wobbly tripod (who was only wobbly, she discovered later, because she had failed to tighten an integral dial. But her husband would not know that).
Buffalo, NYMaid of the Mist, Niagra Falls, CanadaNiagra Falls, US side.Cruising into Cleveland.Reflections of Cleveland.A cloudy start to Mackinac Island.Mackinac Island sunrise.Under the bridge connecting the lower and upper peninsula, Michigan.Our final stop: Chicago.
On the last day in Chicago she was stopped by a man just a few meters away from the ship, curious about where it had come from. This was not an unusual question – the crew often fielded such queries any time the ship was docked.
She explained the route, from Rhode Island to New York, up the Hudson River and into the Erie Canal. From the Erie Canal to the Oswego Canal, north to Lake Ontario. Lake Erie, Lake Huron, Lake Michigan.
It was then that she felt an odd sense of accomplishment. Which was ludicrous, really. She did nothing but sit on a ship for 16 days; she expended no effort in getting everyone from start to end. In fact, she was instead pampered by the gracious crew. But it was the kind of journey that no matter how you did id, it felt like a feat. An accomplishment that comes from completing a not-so-normal route that so very few do in modern times.
Oh, and she didn’t lose any equipment or break anything and only cried once for missing her husband. She also didn’t tank the Instagram account as she kinda expected to.
From the butterfly preserve on Mackinac Island.
She will be happy to relinquish the duty of photographer, to not have to worry about backing up and sorting and ISO and changing batteries nightly and always carrying a cleaning cloth. She’ll switch her camera back to AV mode and live out her days not worrying so much about her own photos, knowing that her husband has got that covered.
The lady may not have tanked this blog’s Instagram account, but a photographer, she is not.
And she is quite okay with that.
how to do it
Blount Small Ship Adventures tagline is to “go where the big ships cannot”, and that is the exact truth. The ship used for this excursion, the Grande Caribe, was built exactly so that it could traverse the Erie Canal. The pilot house detracts so that the shortest bridge is cleared by just 6 inches. They are the only company who provides this itinerary, and with the small intimate setting (only 82 passengers maximum!), it’s like traveling on a friend’s yacht. The Captain was cautious and considerate, the crew were all fantastically attentive and friendly. And the itinerary simply cannot be beat.
It’s one thing to become familiar with a location by sampling its food, viewing its landscapes, or reading through placards at a museum. It’s quite another to engage with locals at events symbolic of their heritage, culture, and even their beliefs. While we’ve always been aware of that on some level, it wasn’t until we planned our summer around attending Nova Scotia festivals that this idea began to crystalize.
Would we have understood the significance of scallops to the town of Digby and the entire region if we hadn’t spent the day partaking in their annual festival? Would we truly have appreciated the kind-heartedness of the Acadian people if we hadn’t had so many beautiful conversations with other attendees at the parade celebrating their heritage? I could go on with examples from every festival and how deeply touched we were by the interactions we had and the knowledge we gained.
These six southern festivals in Nova Scotia not only further ingrained our understanding of our new home, but also were simply so much fun!
Find out how and why below, plus our picks of other things to do when you’re in the area.
Festival Acadien de Clare
When: Typically, near the end of July, and again on August 15th (Acadian Day) Where: Municipality of Clare
You only need to drive through the Municipality of Clare to get a feel for the immense pride of the Acadian people who live there. Flags abound, and other items – roofs, ornamental lighthouses, lobster traps, and more – are painted in the red, blue and white flag adorned with the signature yellow star. But the Acadians are not to be known only by their symbolism; we also experienced their famous friendliness multiple times during our short stay.
We were there for their most significant event of the year – the Festival Acadien de Clare – celebrating the history of the Acadian people. If you are unfamiliar with their story – the Acadians were the very first settlers to Canada (from France). They lived in harmony with the Mi’kmaq for many generations before the British expelled them. Some were allowed to return several years later, but not to their previous homes, and the population was scattered, left to start over on entirely unfamiliar land. The fact that Acadian culture is still so strong hundreds of years later is a testament to their resilience and perseverance. In essence, they have A LOT to celebrate, and this is the biggest Acadian festival in the world.
The festivities stretch for a whole week and culminate every year on August 15th, National Acadian Day. Our experience during our two days there will stick with us for a long time. From sampling Acadian cuisine to shopping for local art, watching their colourful parade and more, those experiences were punctuated by the friendliness of all we encountered.
Other Things to Do Nearby
Mavillette Beach Provincial Park
This stretch of beach had been on our to-do list for a very long time. Our visit coincided with a dense fog for most of the time, but it did not hamper our spirits one bit. The white sand was soft and beautiful; the rolling waves were therapeutic. This is a spot we will definitely return to many times over, we are sure.
Smugglers Cove
Photos do not do this scenic spot justice. It’s only a brief walk and a few stairs to get to that view below, and a very worthy stop.
Cape Saint Mary Lighthouse Park
A quick drive up the hill from Mavillette Beach, a stop here offers views of dramatic craggy cliffs. It took us back to Ireland or Scotland and had us lingering longer than we actually had time for! (Plan accordingly.)
Where to Stay and Eat in Clare
La Cuisine Robicheau
If you want to sample Acadian food, make this your stop. Their famed poutine râpée often sells out by noon – make sure to order it in advance. They even smartly offer a sampler if you want to try it before ordering a whole plate, as it’s NOT for everyone (Pete enjoyed it, I didn’t)! Admittedly, Pete was more excited about this first sample of creamed lobster and still talks about it all the time.
The Wheelhouse Seafood and Pasta
A delightful little cafe with a fantastic fresh menu! But saving room for dessert is a MUST here – the homemade pie selection is to die for.
Cabane D’horizon
These sea cans on the sea are just down the road from La Cuisine Robicheau and owned by the same people. These wee containers are loaded with luxuries and give you a front-row seat to epic sunsets you won’t find elsewhere.
Shelburne Dock St. Days
When: Typically early August Where: Shelburne
The small town of Shelburne, tucked away in the southeast corner of Nova Scotia, is poised for tremendous things. As beautiful as Lunenburg and with abundant historical stories to tell, Shelburne has so much to offer but is absent bountiful crowds. Yet.
That small-town feel is what made our experience at the Shelburne Dock St. Days so joyful. And it was the camaraderie around the locals that elevated it to truly memorable, likely (and SO unfortunately) because they were bonded months prior when the county and community were threatened with a substantial wildfire. With over 230 square km burned and 150 structures lost (including 60 homes), the locals rallied together. Fittingly, the 2023 festival was dedicated in honour of the volunteer firefighters, and many even participated in the just-for-fun firefighter games. “I’ll be cheering for him,” one woman standing said to me before one competition started, “He lost his home but just got back out there and continued to fight with everyone else.”
The cheers and pure jubilation of this festival may just be what the town needed, and it was a privilege to witness. Beyond the firefighter games, there were dozens of events: lots of live music, a djembe drum circle (which we particularly loved), a cornhole tournament, a children’s parade, unique street vendors, the hilarious trawl tub races (which was almost total carnage right off the start, it’s tough!), and so much more.
But the real highlight was the Parade of Lights: a procession of boats dressed up to the nines with lights through the natural harbour of Shelburne. Fireworks from onboard faded over the water and sparkled in reflection. With many boats decorated acknowledging local heroes, it was a spectacular way to honour them.
Other Things to Do Nearby
Sandy Point Lighthouse
Not far from Shelbourne, what is most remarkable about this lighthouse is that when the tide is out, you can walk right out to it! That’s also the time when the gorgeous white sand emerges, and visitors can have some beach time before the tide rolls back in.
Where to Eat and Stay in Shelburne
The Emerald Light
As a non-seafood eater (me, Dalene!) I can get a little worn down by menu offerings in smaller places, as the choices are often repetitive and limited. The Emerald Light is an excellent exception! The Korean chicken and waffles were especially good.
Boxing Rock Brewing Company
We knew of Boxing Rock well before our arrival in Shelbourne, as the brand has graced our fridge shelves many times! Thus, a stop had to be made, and as expected, it always tastes better straight from the source. There’s a great atmosphere there, too.
Cooper’s Inn
We enjoyed comfort and great views at this historic waterfront property. Other reasons to stay: the sumptuous breakfasts and the gorgeous patio onsite.
Cooper’s Inn
Digby Scallop Days
When: Typically, the second week of August Where: Digby
The little town of Digby is home to a mighty big claim: “Scallop Capital of the World”.
The title is well-earned! This is where commercial fishing for scallops started in 1920, and these little bivalve mollusks continue to help fuel the abundant fishing in the area. Digby scallops have also long had a stellar reputation for taste – the cold water in the area, combined with the giant swing in Bay of Fundy tides that bring in plenty of fresh food for the scallops – ensure they are plentiful and plump. Diving into a plate of fresh scallops is definitely one of the best things to do in the Annapolis Valley.
It is no wonder that Digby Scallop Days was such a fun festival to attend! Digbyites have a lot to celebrate regarding their relationship with scallops, and they went all out. In our short time visiting (just one day over a possible three, all full of events), we witnessed a scallop-shucking demo (which is a rare treat as this is usually done on the boat), live music, an enthusiastic parade, and we browsed through local vendor wares.
And, of course, there were plenty of unique scallop dishes to be had around town (Pete had his share!), and even though I don’t eat anything from the sea, I loved pretending I was an artist for a hot minute by painting an empty shell.
Other Things to Do Nearby
Balancing Rock
Make your way to Long Island and take a quick 2.5 km hike, including 235 steps down, which will bring you to a platform to see the Balancing Rock. The massive basalt tower looks out over St. Mary’s Bay and is nicknamed the “Nature’s Time Post”.
Whale Watching
Another top reason for visiting Digby is as a jumping-off point for whale-watching tours via nearby Brier Island. Whale season is typically July to October.
Whales in the Bay of Fundy
Maud Lewis Replica House and Memorial Park
Maud Lewis is one of Nova Scotia’s renowned artists and is honoured near Digby with the Maud Lewis Replica House and the Maud Lewis Memorial Park. The house is a replica of the one where Maud spent her life and has an honour system gift ship for those looking for a souvenir. The Maud Lewis Memorial Park is where she created her work and is a peaceful spot to learn about her history and legacy.
Where to Eat and Stay in Digby
The Crow’s Nest
Renowned for friendly service and excellent food, Pete devoured his lobster roll and a cup of chowder, and although the patio seating was a bit tight, we both loved the Digby harbour views.
Fundy Restaurant
Go for the scallops, but stay for the patio! With an elevated seat right on the water’s edge, you can enjoy the fresh ocean breezes while you dive into their generous plates of food.
Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa
This historic resort hotel is on a fantastic sprawl of land overlooking the Bay of Fundy. Enjoy the outdoor pool and golf course in summer, and in the off-season, the excellent food at the onsite restaurant will keep you coming back.
Cape Daze
When: Varies Where: Cape Sable, accessible only by boat (must register in advance)
Cape Daze is not a typical festival – there is no parade, no live music, and no local market. It’s simply a day to enjoy exploring an island once inhabited by lighthouse builders and then keepers, and now with only two summer cottages remaining. It’s a day celebrating the tallest lighthouse in Nova Scotia (and the third highest in Canada) that saved many lives after being built along the treacherous coastline. And it’s a day for visitors to help gather the garbage that accumulates here – given it’s at Nova Scotia’s most southerly point with a lot of water beyond, it’s not an insignificant amount.
Even though it was quite foggy this year, the island’s beauty was undeniable. We gathered garbage in two very full bags – all 68 volunteers brought in 800lbs – and also took some time to enjoy the blissful isolation and sound of only ocean waves.
After five hours on the island (boats return regularly so you can stay longer – or shorter – if you want), we left wet and muddy but with smiles plastered across our faces. Coupling tourism with environmental work is not done enough, and Cape Daze sets an excellent example of how this can be done. We genuinely hope it inspires more.
Other Things to Do Nearby
The Hawk
You can actually view Cape Sable Lighthouse from this gorgeous stretch of sand that is also home to a 1,500-year-old drowned forest. Add the birding potential here (it’s a protected area), and you can easily wile away a day or two enjoying it.
Wild Axe Lumberjack
Ever wondered how you would fare as a lumberjack? Well, you can find out at the Wild Axe Lumberjack experience in Barrington. Get instruction from world-champion logroller Darren Hudson and try your hand at axe throwing, your feet at logrolling, and much more!
Where to Eat and Stay Near Cape Sable Island
Captain Kat’s Lobster Shack
Captain Kat’s is THE renowned place to go for lobster on the south shore, so you may need a couple of visits to try the array of lobster choices. Pete ordered both the lobster fondue and lobster roll, and I had to roll him out of there afterwards.
West Head Takeout
A tiny takeout shack in Clark’s Harbour, prepare yourself for very generous portions (consider going splitsies with your pal) and to quickly devour the fresh seafood dishes. On recommendation from a friend, Pete had the “Captain’s Burger” in which you can pick two types of seafood all within one bun. He opted for clams and haddock and left a very happy man.
PEBs by the Sea Dome
You can’t get a much better view of Cape Sable than you can from these dome locations on the sea’s edge. The domes themselves are cozy, but the patio is where you may spend most of your time watching the sun go down or the fog roll in (or both simultaneously).
Starlight Festival
When: 10 days, starting in mid-September Where: Yarmouth and area
When the point of a festival is to appreciate the night sky – to stand in the pitch dark and absorb your surroundings using your limited night vision and other senses – it is a bit disarming for us content creators. Our cameras became somewhat worthless, but on reflection, that might have been the best part about it. We were total participants in the events we attended.
Le Phare de la Pointe
The Starlight Festival, anchored in Yarmouth but spread out in the region, lasts a week with various events to take in. The region is ideally suited for such an event, with consistent efforts being made to reduce light pollution and darken the skies. It was even designated the first Starlight Reserve in North America by The International Starlight Foundation. We opted to take in two events: a night hike and an evening spent in a dark field with a giant telescope.
A Night Hike with Paul Lelonde of La Nuit Stella
Paul led us on a forest walk, starting at the Université Sainte-Anne in Clare just after the sun went down. While a bit creepy at times to walk in total darkness and only be led by the sounds of shuffling feet in front of us, it was also such a fascinating way to challenge all of our senses. We stopped to test our ability to identify items only by smell (much more challenging than it sounds), to learn constellations, and even to spot glow worms (firefly larvae) that each emitted a tiny pinpoint of light. It was an incredibly immersive experience and a new way to *see * our surroundings on a simple walk.
Dark Sky Observing with Tim Doucette
As an amateur astronomer and owner of the nearby Deep Sky Eye Observatory, Tim has a fascinating story and a true passion for all things space. So much so that he takes his “show” on the road, and we were able to meet Tim and a score of first-time night observers in a dark field right in Yarmouth.
After a brief instruction and demonstration on using his intensive telescope, all attendees were invited to take a turn looking at Saturn. “That was really cool; I’m a geek now,” said the lady who went just before we did. SAME, LADY! Never before had either of us looked through such an impressive telescope, and to see Saturn as clearly as depicted in textbooks gave us a similar WOW moment. (And a vow to head to the Deep Sky Eye Observatory when we get a chance.)
The moon from Argyle Lodge
Other Things to Do Nearby
Le Village Historique Acadien de la Nouvelle-Ecosse
Step back in time to the early 1900s at this historic seaside village and an accurate representation of early Acadian life. Walk through numerous landmark buildings, including original wooden homes and a lighthouse. You can even observe and try fishing and farming traditions practiced over a century ago, plus enjoy Acadian cuisine at the onsite cafe.
Pubnico Point Trail
This well-marked trail is flat and easy to walk on, taking visitors right to the edge of the ocean for much of it. The main route is only 3.7 km (out and back), but there are a couple of offshoots and route variations that can make it longer.
Where to Eat and Stay Near Yarmouth
Tusket Falls Brewing Company
Nova Scotia is blessed with an abundance of craft breweries, and for us, Tusket Falls ranks among the best. Most notable are their sours – some of the most delicious we’ve had!
Ye Olde Argyler Lodge
This remote lodge nestled in Lobster Bay is a perfect retreat from city life, and a chance to observe the gorgeous night sky (which matched up well with the purpose of our trip)! We stayed in one of the cozy cottages and made sure to also enjoy dinner in the Lodge, which lived up to our lofty expectations.
Shag Harbour UFO XPO
When: Last weekend of September Where: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Growing up and watching the X-Files, we knew that “the truth is out there”.” As it turns out, the truth is actually in Nova Scotia, and more specifically, Shag Harbour. Turn back the clock to 1967, and on an October evening, several people witnessed an unidentified flying object (UFO) hovering above the trees before diving into the waters of Shag Harbour. The fishermen in the area who saw the UFO impact, contacted the RCMP, and a search immediately began. Nothing was ever found, and to this day, the mystery around what exactly happened and why it happened here remains unknown.
This is how the Shag Harbour UFO XPO came to be. People from around the world every October come to the festival in Yarmouth to listen to guest speakers, interact with other experiencers, listen to interviews, and tell their own stories about how they’ve encountered UFOs, UAPs or other phenomena. This year, the amazing speakers included:
Nick Pope – considered the Fox Mulder of British Intelligence, he once worked as the UK’s Ministry of Defence investigating UFOs and talked about the latest discussions in US Congress and what it means going forward with investigating UFOs and UAPs.
Dean Alimoto – an award-winning feature filmmaker and TV documentarian, and we got a sneak peek at the first episode of his upcoming documentary series “The Alien Perspective,” due to be released next year.
Travis Walton – shared his story of how, in 1975, he went missing for five days after being abducted by a UFO. His story has been adapted to the 1993 film “Fire in the Sky”.
Chris Styles – the man behind digging up all the info on the Shag Harbour incident and other UFO encounters here in Nova Scotia. I can’t wait to dive into his book “Impact to Contact” which explains everything that he has since uncovered.
On the second day of the XPO, participants hopped on a bus to visit the crash UFO site in Shag Harbour and a secret military base that monitored the waters surrounding Nova Scotia. We were honoured that Laurie Wickens, one of the surviving witnesses, joined us and explained what he saw that evening. When arriving at the harbour, he showed us how close the UFO impacted the water to shore and had the Canadian Coast Guard circle where it would have gone down. In the afternoon, Chris Styles gave us an explanation of the abandoned military base and the activity that once occurred there.
All in all, it was an entertaining weekend, opening a whole new part of my brain from initially thinking of “Do UFOs exist?” to “Why are they here, and what do they want?”. The truth really is here.
Other Things to Do Nearby
Cape Forchu Lighthouse
This is one of Nova Scotia’s most famous lighthouses, and rightly so. Not only for photographers looking for their version of this reflection shot but also because of the beauty that surrounds it, and most importantly how many lives this on-duty lighthouse saved (the harbour it sits in is a tricky one to navigate). It is also the only lighthouse in Nova Scotia that tourists can climb.
Where to Eat and Stay in Yarmouth
Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant and Brewery
Right on the Yarmouth waterfront is one of the most popular restaurants in town. Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant and Brewery offers the normal Nova Scotian fare and in a nautical-themed setting. What we particularly enjoyed was their locally brewed ales, especially the Yarmouth Town Brown.
Rodd Grand Yarmouth
Right in the heart of downtown Yarmouth is the Rodd Grand Hotel. This was where the UFO XPO conference was held and we had a south-facing room with a harbour view. What was best about this hotel was the location with a number of restaurants, pubs, and shops all within walking distance.
Photography, like any form of art, can at once be both wondrous and cruel.
Wondrous because it helps seize the essence of any one moment for all eternity. And also cruel because it helps seize the essence of any one moment for all eternity. Upon reviewing the photos following a trip, those captured moments can make us both wish so desperately for a return that it burns.
It’s been over a year since we boarded the flight bound for our six week project in Costa Brava. The project, in partnership with our friend Sherry, was to traverse the region and create photography guides of the most captivating spots.
The project itself had us enthralled – chasing optimal light through narrow cobblestone streets of five endearing towns in the region. There were lanes still marked with grooves from the carts that followed the horses which pulled them in medieval times. We climbed towers and walls for their vantage points below, and frequented many markets to take in all the seasonal colours.
Following our six week stay, the difficult task began of narrowing down thousands of photos. Then there was carefully mapping out the logical routes, editing the images, the text, and of course designing the books. And as we did so, over the long months it took to produce the final result, we were forced to face each one with more longing than the one before.
It was our second visit to the region, and it really began to feel like home. Dalene forced back tears on our last day there (and as she says: I would have shed a few too, except for all my manly manliness).
But finally, the barbarous work is done. And now you are able to take the same medieval journey that we did. We’ve done all the legwork. The guides will not only show you the best photos to take in these towns, but also will inform you of the best time of day to visit, what camera settings to use, the best selfie spots, which winding street to take to find some secret gems, and even where to stop for gelato in between shots.
Girona
Take our guide for what it is – a guide. We spent a lot of time in this city and developed six different photo walks. Our guides to Girona include:
Vistas and Viewpoints
Along the Onyar River
Old Town and Jewish Quarter
Markets
Gardens, Parks and Cloisters
Game of Thrones Filming Locations
We would be remiss if we told you to only follow every step and not take this alluring city all in on your own. Get lost aimlessly wandering the cobblestone streets with your camera in tow. You will always be grounded by the cathedral that stands tall over all of Girona. Start there.
This antiquated city is so well preserved that the hit HBO show Game of Thrones filmed season six within the walls of Girona. And we were lucky enough to be there for premiere night and took full advantage – we even got to sit on the real Iron Throne! Through some locals we met we were able to put together a guide of the spots which appeared in season 6 of the show and tried to show the true view versus the fabricated ‘show shot’.
Besalú
Thirty minutes from Girona is the town of Besalú. The bridge is the first thing any new visitor will notice leading to the walled historic centre. There are many unique angles and little surprises to take throughout the town. The walk itself takes only 1.5 hours but count on being caught up for a couple more by the sidewalk cafes and shops.
We had the chance to visit the historic Jewish baths, but we could only do so with a guide, so to view these be sure to check with the tourist office.
Castelló d’Empúries
What was once an important trading post is now a quiet medieval town in the Costa Brava countryside. The castle and old town is surrounded by a moat on one side of the city. There are a number of ways to wander into the old town and the cobblestone roads lead us to the very well preserved Basilica de Santa Maria.
Peratallada
Peratallada is considered to the be one of the most beautiful medieval villages in Catalonia and is a popular day trip for locals. The village protected with walls around the exterior and a moat no longer filled with water but still deep. Inside the walls are roads only for walking and are still original, evidenced by the cart wheel grooves. There is a castle in the centre of town, which at one point was a hotel but has since locked its doors and is no longer accessible. It’s recommended to walk slowly around the village taking your time. Watch how the light and shadows will change throughout and most of all stop to enjoy the variety of cafes and restaurants and a slow paced lifestyle.
Tossa de Mar
Tossa de Mar is one of the most photogenic destinations we’ve ever visited. The walled town is perched on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. From the beach we were able to walk along the walls and explore all the hidden corners in the old town. Arrive early in the morning to claim your spot on the empty beach, but expect by 10am the beach to be busy. Tossa de Mar is also a popular spot along the Camino de Ronda and following the path to the top of the hill offers amazing views back of the towers and surrounding beaches.
It’s difficult not to be enamoured by the beauty of Costa Brava. The region is so incredibly photogenic and creating these guides was not an easy task due to having to select from the thousands of photographs which both Sherry and I made.
And it was a cruel task, but we now pass that onto you. Enjoy capturing the photos, but try not to be too haunted by longing when you leave.
While in Tirana, we came upon a clock tower just east of Skanderberg Square. Our first instinct, as always, was to find a way up it, longing for photos of the square we could get from above. There was no one manning the door so we turned to a tiny gallery just beside it, poked our heads in, and asked the single employee if she knew how we could get inside. She reached for a set of keys on the wall just beside her and we made our way back to the tower. In a few seconds we were climbing the dusty stairs to the top. We had entered without any payment, only giving the tower’s keeper the promise that we would close the door on our way out.
A few shards of broken glass were scattered on the narrow platform at the top. We circled it to check angles for light and view, snapped a dozen photos, and then just stood soaking in the busy street scenes below, staying much longer than we ever intended.
It’s in these moments where we find such pleasure as travelers – relishing in the discovery of those places that seem so deliciously secretive. Just us, right there, right then.
In Berat, we found another keeper.The town of a thousand windows is one of Albania’s two UNESCO sites and a relatively popular destination for tourists. (Consider though, that the word “popular” must be applied extremely loosely – we were the only two foreigners on our bus from Tirana and we saw only a handful of others.) Our frequent strolls were met with stares and odd looks, perhaps the familiarity of our faces being a factor given the endurance of our presence. While the highlights of this compact city can easily be seen in one day, we stayed for three.
Berat is a tiny city, but one that we enjoyed walking many times over, up onto the cramped cobbles between hillside homes, navigating the slick mossy steps and stopping for photos of the odd bright door amidst the repeated walls of off-white. On one outing I got caught up in a complex conversation of hand gestures with an elderly woman peddling various jellies and pomegranate wine, and she expertly succeeded in getting me to pay far too much for a recycled soda bottle of the latter. (I have developed a distressing indifference to adorable children selling their wares – knowing that making a purchase does more harm than good – but I can never resist a cute grandma.)
But it was further up the rocky hill to Berat Castle where we met Toni. The cost to enter the castle was minimal, and after we paid it, Toni offered us an exclusive tour for ten euros more. Knowing nothing of what we were about to see and skeptical of how much information would be on display inside, we accepted.Thankfully we did, because Toni had the keys.
“People call me the king of the castle,” Toni said, “but that’s just not true. I’ve lived here all of my life, so I have a set of keys.”
Constructed mainly in the 13th century, the fortress has sustained a considerable amount of damage over the years but still remains a formidable sight given the elevated location and characteristics of its architecture. Even past conquerors and tyrants, acknowledging its importance, sometimes chose to leave it unharmed (the Ottomans, for example, destroyed many churches throughout the country but left some in Berat).
And it was at those churches where Toni pulled out his keys to remove the padlocks that barred the doors. Light filtered in to illuminate the vibrant frescoes and delicately patterned floors inside the tiny buildings. Those of which may have been no more remarkable than any others we have seen, but I believe the covert nature of our viewing them made the hues brighter and the details more intricate.
At Toni’s insistence, we were allowed to take photos, but not share them publicly. So instead we share this collection from around the fortress, which also still has a population and tiny economy within its walls.
There are few places left in the world, and even fewer in Europe, that offer such spectacularly fresh experiences with no formal tourist-herding control in place. I expect that Berat and Albania won’t be this way for long – soon the keepers will be replaced by turnstiles and visitors will no longer have the luxury of ample space and time.
For those of you with even an inkling of wanting to travel to Albania, now would be the time to do it.
where we stayed
We stayed at one of the highest rated hotels in town with a perfect location right on the boulevard (for an unbelievably low price). We were comfortable and very well taken care of at the White City Hotel.
We fancied ourselves big adventurers by booking an extended stay in Albania. Few people we know have traveled through this little known Balkan country before, and tourism information on the internet is relatively scarce. Concerned for our business while traveling there, we asked others about wifi and they said good not great. Roads and accessibility of transportation were also said to be concerns.
But we had such a gentle introduction to the country via the capital city of Tirana that it took a drive through the Gjerë mountains in the south a week later to make us feel even the slightest anxiety, and that was only because we were literally driving on the steep edge of a windy road. I thought back to the driver who brought us into the city from the airport on the first night – he gave us a bit of a tour and referred to the universities we passed as supermarkets, because of the apparent ease in which degrees could be bought.
I looked at the sagging, curvy bridge ahead at one hairpin turn and nervously thought: I hope that the engineers who designed this road obtained the earned degree and not the purchased one.
We arrived over the mountain queasy but in one piece, our total load a smidgen lighter than when we started thanks to the man two seats ahead who emptied the contents of his stomach into a blue plastic bag and tossed it out the window.
“What do you know about my country?” our driver asked as we departed the airport.
We’ve been embarrassed by this question before, entering a new country with barely a clue of its history or what to expect. This is a decided strategy – we prefer to arrive with a completely fresh perspective – but when this question is asked we scramble to answer respectfully.
“Very little,” I admitted, “we know some about the problems in the 90s. But we are here to learn.” I quickly changed the subject to issue broad compliments of the reported beauty of the Albanian Riviera and of the welcoming nature of his countrymen. He didn’t answer.
Albania’s narrative is one of the most sordid in recent European history. The dictator Enver Hoxha, in power for over 40 years starting from the end of the second world war, closed off this small country to the world. Within, Hoxha industrialized the country, brought rapid economic growth and focused on eliminating illiteracy and becoming self-sufficient. In many ways, he was successful. But he also forcefully exterminated his competition, issued the death penalty freely, and shut off the country from the rest of the world (some liken it to modern North Korea).
Symbolic of a paranoid dictator, Hoxha also sunk much of the country’s resources into a nonsensical “bunkerisation” program, building over 700,000 concrete bunkers scattered across the country to provide protection against what he believed was an inevitable invasion by the west. They were never used as intended and now stand as a bizarre reminder of a dark past. But as one Albanian joked on one of our Instagram photos, they are now the best equipped country in the world for an alien invasion. Indeed.
Problems did not end with Hoxha’s death in 1985. As the country began to liberalize while lifting the covers of Communism, rebellious conflicts flared repeatedly in the 90s due to widespread government corruption that crippled the economy. Gangs took advantage of the volatility, the mafia funded their interests, and the arms that Hoxha had outfitted citizens with throughout the years were put to use. Thousands died and the UN entered in 1997 to stabilize.Relative peace has been fostered in Albania since. And although the country is not without remaining complicated problems, the economy is getting back on track and signs of growth can be seen everywhere. In some ways it is a country working to catch up with the rest of the world, yet in other surprising ways it is miles ahead. Radical pushes have been made in government for better representation by women, and whether it is due to complete indifference or overall benevolence, Albania is lauded as the most religious-tolerant nation in Europe. But then there is the woeful sight of strewn garbage in open spaces (we’re not talking Peru levels of garbage, but enough to be terribly disappointing), and the fact that finding our way via public transportation was confusing with the lack of any formal stations for buses.
Thankfully we were never confused for long. The Albanians we met, especially in Tirana, went far out of their way to ensure that we were welcomed and taken care of. All we had to do was ask, and we were quickly steered and shepherded around the city without hesitation. We put our trust into a lot of random people to get us to random places, and our trust was never misplaced.
And then they did even more. Our first few outings saw us receive free sorbet, a slice of birthday cake to share from a neighbouring table at dinner, and an impromptu tour from a local we met in Skanderberg Square. But the best part about it was when we gushed our gratitude, their collective response made us wonder if we had stumbled upon a most endearing national tradition.
One hand on the heart, and a gracious tip of the head. A sweet and intimate gesture always accompanied by a sincere smile.
A mural on the Museum of National History.
“I don’t agree with our National History Museum,” our driver from the first night also said as we drove past the large building anchored on the main square, emblazoned with a beautifully intricate mural of proud citizens in arms, defending their country throughout the years. “Not all the history is in there. We are not all about war, we’ve had good times too.” Sadly though, it is those warring images from the 90s that prevent people from visiting, despite the rave reviews coming from big name travel publications. Albania has recently being awarded all the fancy travel cliches including Europe’s last hidden gem and best kept secret.
It took us little time to assert the same platitudes thanks in large part to the hospitality of the people, and because the country overall has the appeal of the unpolished and undiscovered. We want to know more about how and why, we want to poke around in most every corner. And it feels like we would be welcomed to do so – without question we always felt completely safe and comfortable.
The national hero: Skanderberg.There were book sales on many streets.
Our biggest concerns about our visit were quickly dismissed: the wifi across the country was better than what we had in Berlin a week prior, much work has been done to improve infrastructure on main routes, and English-speakers are plentiful. Tirana itself is bustling but very congenial – it does not hold the outer beauty of many other European capitals and its traffic is sometimes nightmarish, but it is manageable in size and carries affable and youthful energy. And despite the odd sagging bridge and tight corner without guards on that windy mountain road, we were surprised at how smooth our journeys were from one point to another. Any pause for construction or potholes were made up for by the engaging views out our window – from the snow-capped peaks to the crystal green of rivers, even the variety of stuffed animals hanging from front porches in peculiar superstition. For Albania, one more cliche holds forcefully true: the journey really is the destination.
We saw so few other tourists. Given the time of year, it is understandable (we learned quickly that when it is off-season, it is truly off-season – many attractions we wanted to see were inaccessible), but it is clear that that won’t last for long. From the allure of the remote Accursed Mountains in the north, to the ancient ruins from the Greeks, Romans and Ottomans, and the pure white beaches of the south, Albania touts a wealth of beguiling attractions just waiting to be sought out.
And throughout our month-long stay, we learned that you don’t need to be a big adventurous type to do so either.
where we stayed
We stopped in Tirana three times on our journey and enjoyed our stays at both the Hotel Vile e Arte and Center Rooms Oresti. Both are very good value and near to the center (Skanderberg Square) – the Oresti had slightly nicer rooms and the Vila e Arte had slightly better breakfast. Take your pick!
It happens often, during these vagabonding days, that I wake up with no clue as to where I am. I glance around the room, take stock of what is around, and look for revealing clues. I then flip through my mental rolodex of recent places we’ve been until I link the chain of events that lands me in that particular bedroom, in that particular moment.Sometimes, if I’m lucky, I have more conspicuous indicators. Like a dull and repetitive fog horn.
My initial reaction, that first morning on the island of Grand Manan, was to lambaste Pete for not turning the sound off on his phone before going to bed (as is a common occurrence). But soon I realized what it really was.
A glance up to the uncovered window revealed the truth. A fog had rolled in overnight and hung low, so thick that I couldn’t see the stretch of land that was on the other side of the narrow cove the evening before. Instead of being a notification on Pete’s phone, that noise which shook me awake was an echoing alert to warn boaters of this land that they may not see from the water.
Oh yeah, we’re on an island. Tucked into a cozy cabin by the coast. The previous night, we had read by a fire and went to bed with the sound of gentle waves rushing the pebbled shore. On this day, we would poke around the coastline a bit but were chased back inside by the fog and rain. Hey, we didn’t mind too much.
We had a whole week yet to explore.
Grand Manan Island is one of the largest in the Bay of Fundy but still able to be driven from one end to the other in about an hour. And its width can be crossed in even less. We figured that our task, to discover the best of this island of New Brunswick, would be easy work with time to spare. We hoped to afford many hours appreciating the bookcase in our cottage and big lounge chairs on the patios. Besides the fog horn, there was nothing but comfort and quiet.And sometimes, especially after hecktic visits home coupled with time apart, this pair wants nothing more than these two things.
But on our first evening out, spent surrounded by a roomful of locals at a fundraiser for an iconic lighthouse on the island, the tips on what to see and do were flying our way. This beach has the best sea glass, be sure to stop at this art gallery. We ended up carefully planning most of our days around special activities and especially photo opportunities – not only did we have to plan for early sunrises and late sunsets, but tide tables had to be considered. We found ourselves driving more than reading; beach-combing more than resting.
The weather was glorious – that rain on the first day was all we encountered. Nothing stopped us from bush-whacking along the Hole in the Wall trail or seal-spotting in Pettes Cove. Or watching a humpback breach or kayaking in Whale Cove. Yeah, we did all of that, and a lot more.
We Hit the Trails
There is a trail that encircles the entire island that takes about three days to complete (says a 19 year-old we met, add on a few more days for us). While that hike is now firmly bucket-listed, we settled for a shorter journey called the Hole-in-the-Wall trail that took us all the way from an arched rock through some cliff-edge camping sites (also bucket-listed), and then onto the Swallowtail lighthouse.
The best part about this trail for these hikers is that much of it (save for the short trip that can be done to the arch rock and back) is adventurous hiking. It’s decently marked, but through a variety of terrain that saw us cliffside one moment and then shuffling through tall grass the next. The dirtier we got, the more rewarding we found it.
Hole in the Wall.Cliffside camping, anyone?
Then, the Water
We have gone whale watching before, several times, and will admit that we were initially a bit meh on going again. Our previous experiences were pretty spectacular, could they be topped?
Turns out, they could. We voyaged 15 kilometres offshore to find humpbacks that gave us a show like we had never seen before. A young male, probably 2 or 3 years old by our captain’s estimate, played tirelessly alongside our boat. He flipped, he waved, and he breached for us several times.
The captain stated that he kept a book to track those whales who habitually hung around in this spot, complete with photos and names to set them apart. This young male had not been added yet. When he does, we recommended that his name be Show-Off.
Shooting the Sun
After being woken by foghorn that first morning, my future early rises on Grand Manan either came from planned outings to capture the sunrise, or from Pete running out the front door in his underwear with camera in hand. (Apologies to those who stayed at the cottages around us.) Those shots at Whale Cove, along with capturing the famous Swallowtail Lighthouse at daybreak, were some of our favourites.
For high drama, South Head is the place to watch the sun descend. The 100-meter cliffs are made of basalt rocks left from one giant lava flow.
Sunrise at Inn at Whale Cove. Taken by Pete while in his underwear.
Combing the Beaches
As our trip wore on, we got better at being prepared for spontaneous beach enjoyment. Sunscreen, bathing suits, sandals, beach towels – all the required gear took up a permanent spot in our back seat. We found our best beach moments to be those that are impromptu. They provided an immediate infusion of mellow that we usually never make time for otherwise.
We especially loved Deep Cove Beach for lounging and Stanley Beach for strolling on Grand Manan.
Deep Cove Beach.
General Exploratory Pleasantry
The best thing about Grand Manan is that it has a distinct character that was unexpected; a diverse and harmonious community that made us feel immediately welcomed. We met people who had moved there from across Canada, a salty fisherman who had spent his life on the island, and eavesdropped on a conversation involving an American looking to buy a house.
There is a strong community of artists – we encountered many photographers or others with easels set up in the most scenic places. That was again reflected in the cute cafes and craft shops. Yet it exists without an ounce of kitsch, and not at all to overtly appeal to tourists.
After one week we left the island for the mainland. We were somber for the parting yet energized by all that we had seen and done. This was our first taste of a province previously unknown to us, and set us up well for what was yet to come.
Where we Stayed and How we Did it
We can’t say enough about our stay at the Inn at Whale Cove. Our bed at the “Orchardside Cottage” was one of the most comfortable we’ve had in months, and the cottage overall was well stocked and comfortable. We had two patios to choose from, views of Whale Cove, and only a fog horn to disturb us. We also indulged in one dinner at the Inn and it was superb!Of course, watching young humpback whales breach isn’t guaranteed on every outing.
Our kayak excursion wasn’t exactly as planned – we were rerouted due to wind – but any day on the water is better than a day out of it. Especially when a couple of curious seals pop up to say hi.
I stood back armed with cameras while Pete made his way to the base of what would be a tower of humans. He placed his hands on the shoulders of a stranger in front of him and spread his legs slightly to anchor his feet and allow for more force to be applied forward.
He would tell me later that he was told not to look up and to just push. Was he pushing too hard? Or not hard enough? he wondered as the entire base (called a pinya) began to lean in.
I moved in until I was right behind Pete, and even though I was not directly a part of it, the intensity was arresting. The hush was broken only by heavy breathing and ardent calling of instructions by the captain. Inside the base, dozens of faces were pressed into dozens of backs, and in the middle, arms were outstretched to support the second layer of humans, who would support six more layers above them.
Each body held a purpose. The larger the pinya, the more weight the human tower can sustain and the higher it can rise. Both Pete and I were surprised by how smoothly and quickly the assembly occurred, as more people climbed over others to make another layer. The size of the ascending humans decreased the higher the tower rose until the final person to clamber to the top was a small girl who couldn’t have been more than six years old. She expeditiously chose her path of least resistance to the top. Once there, she raised her arm and four fingers to represent the Catalonian flag, crossed over, and came back down the other side. At the bottom, she lept into the captain’s arms, was set onto the thick mats that lined the floor, and received high fives as she strutted back to the waiting area. She was the rock star, and she knew it.
It was after 10pm when this group of hundreds, Team Marrecs de Salt, the largest in Girona, finally disbanded for the night. They had erected over a dozen tower formations in a couple of hours of practice, never the same one twice, and waiting outside for them was a line of grills that had been cooking their dinner. The group was jovial and loud.
“My whole family is involved,” Ona told us. At 22 years old, she had been a part of a castell team for 10 years. Her parents balked at letting her join but she would not relent until they did. Later her entire family became members of the local group in the small city of Olot. “It takes up a lot of time so it is good to do it together,” she said. Ona is now on her own, attending university in Girona, but sought out a team as soon as she arrived.
The excitement is what keeps her involved. “There is always adrenaline – even if you aren’t going up. You see a lot of people crying at the end because it’s something that you have worked hard on. People spend their whole lives doing this and it can be very emotional. It’s a sense of pride.”
“People spend their whole lives doing this and it can be very emotional. It’s a sense of pride.”
Ona is quite small in stature and can play a variety of roles. We saw her up on the third row in one tower, but sometimes she is also in the pinya, which was a surprise to us as she seemed too tiny to hold much weight on top. When in the base, she wedges herself in under a bigger person’s armpit to provide support, like a crutch.
There is an unmistakable intimacy about the whole experience and a story to be told about its contribution to society as a whole. Hundreds of would-be strangers, smushed together so that air barely exists between them, all with the common purpose to rise up. The first documented castell dates back to the early 18th century but gained popularity in the 1960s and 70s, when Franco’s dictatorship was instead trying to suppress such cultural activities. When he died, the towers returned in full force. In the 1980s, women were allowed to participate for the first time; their presence is credited with the ability to build lighter and stronger towers that can now reach greater heights. Symbolism abounds.
And it’s not even for competition that these large teams exist, except for within themselves, to execute the towers cleanly, safely, and on time to the music that plays for them. Although there is one big competition called the Concurs de Castells that runs every two years in Tarragona; it is a judged event where teams are awarded points based on difficulty, height, and ability to follow protocol. Otherwise, you will find teams prepping for events like the flower festival in Girona, which is where we saw the Marrecs de Salt perform next.
Wearing glasses is not allowed in the tower
At the flower festival the following weekend, several team members recognized us from the practice. We weaved among them with our cameras in tow, eager to capture their full performance. They all looked different to us now; their dress for the occasion included standard white pants, a blue button-up top, and a black faixa, a thick and long sash wrapped tightly around each of their waists.
The standard clothing serves a variety of functions. The faixa is critical for back support, to hold clothing in place so that skin never slides on skin, and to give climbers something to grab and step on as they climb up and down. Often you’ll see shirt collars clamped between teeth of those within the tower; not only does it help assure no skin-on-skin, but the biting is said to also relieve some pressure on the temples created by enduring the weight of those above.
Other teams vary in colors, but all follow the same premise. Around us were shirts of maroon and others of orange. The other teams had their own towers to build, but on the particularly high ones, they all came together to support each other.
Even though Pete nor I were a part of the official pinya this time, we were right there and could feel it all. And nothing was quite as special as the celebrations that came after the castells were complete. All of the teams together, young and old, big and small, praising their accomplishments and lauding a unique part of their Catalonian culture.
Welcoming the new additions to the team
how to do it
Besides the competition in Tarragona every couple of years – you can watch castells at most major festivals across Spain. Consider contacting teams directly to get their individual schedules!
In Girona during an event for the Fires de San Narcís (November 1st of each year, celebrating Girona’s patron saint), you can catch the human towers actually climbing the steps of the cathedral.
