Category: Europe

It is not often that we allow only five days for an entire country, but our preference to linger was just not possible in Serbia. We had come off of five weeks of intensive work in Catalonia but had a few days to spare before our next determined destination. Serbia was chosen only because it made for a logical route. (And because we had never been there before. YES – we admit it – sometimes we fall prey to the inclination to rack up our number of countries visited. Serbia is the fifty-seventh country that we’ve traveled in together.)

We were exhausted, it was oppressively hot, and I was still struggling with my level of energy. Serbia didn’t really stand a chance with me. Thankfully, Pete has no qualm with venturing out on his own, so he packed his camera around both Belgrade and Novi Sad and reported back with his results. I joined him on the odd excursion (mostly in search of food), but otherwise largely lived through his lens. He said that Serbia reminded him of when we lived in a non-touristy part of Slovenia several years ago. A place where if you don’t look closely you may miss how beautiful it is. He appreciated the simplicity in the architecture and the subtle changes that are being made to open it wider for tourism. That statement didn’t surprise me; he’s always drawn to places in transformation.

My single most vivid memory was upon our arrival late at night in the capital city of Belgrade. Our taxi driver flew down the freeway from the airport to the city with the windows down. I welcomed the cool air and was surprised by the strong scent of lilacs. I assumed it was an air freshener. Sure enough, one dangled from his rearview mirror, but it was faded and with worn edges. It had been there awhile.

When we arrived at our hotel on the edge of Belgrade’s famed fortress, I stepped out into the humid air. I inhaled deeply and the floral scent continued to swirl inside my nostrils. It’s the city itself, I realized, and was immediately charmed by the fragrant introduction.

It is said that of all the senses, smell is most closely linked with memory. So if Serbia is to be impressed in my consciousness by this one thing, then neither the country nor myself can be disappointed by that.

belgrade

At one point in history, the entire population of Belgrade lived within the walls of its famed fortress (dating back to 3rd century BC). Given the strategic location of Serbia, it has seen its share of sieges and wars over the years. Since the break-up of Yugoslavia and the final removal of the leader Slobodan Milosevic in late 2000, the country reestablished its membership in the UN and is preparing to join the EU.

Visually, its capital city remains rough around the edges. A friend told me that upon her visit to Belgrade, she likened it to Bucharest. Pete and I both felt that too. It may not be as compact and pretty as the oft-favoured Novi Sad to the north, but it has that feeling of a gritty up-and-comer. Belgrade should not be ignored.

Novi Sad

Several people had told us not to bother with Belgrade (as you can see from the above, we were glad we did). They said it was known most for its party boat scene (it probably is), and that the trip north to Novi Sad would put us in an environment more to our liking.

They weren’t wrong. It’s very scenic, compact and digestible, and also often smelled of lilacs. If we had had the luxury to linger, it probably would have been here.

I read somewhere that because Serbia had been a bit neglected over the years, the Serbs themselves are just starting to rediscover parts of their country. Even with our brief encounter, it did feel like somewhere that a lot of time could be spent, and that there are a lot of stories yet to be told. Until next time.

where we stayed

In Belgrade we stayed at the charming Crystal Villa Kalemegdan. It was very near the fortress and a short walk to all other main attractions. The room itself was large and with a passable level of comfort – what made this place for us were the very attentive staff who were very helpful and charming!

While in Novi Sad, we enjoyed this Airbnb apartment. Our experience was seamless, and the apartment was spotless and comfortable. Highly recommended!

The island of Kalsoy stretches north like a slender finger – the southern end reachable by ferry and the opposite by a single one-lane paved road from the port. The ratio of sheep to people that we met on that road was probably one thousand to one, so beside the occasional showdown with a gang of the wooly creatures daring us to contest their blockage of the pavement, we cruised with little to slow us. Although we did feel the frequent need to stop and record the scenes before us. Clumps of colored houses in the four communities encountered along the way, some black with tar to better stand the weather, some with traditional grass roofs and the odd sprig of yellow daffodils growing on them. A beautiful statue of the Seal Woman in Mikladalur and the legend of her heartbreak and revenge on a local community. A waterfall that roared near her feet.

We had plenty of time between ferries to get to the most northern tip. And with just one highway, there was no need for a map for our trip to the small island.

Or so we thought.

Trøllanes, a town of 20 inhabitants at the northern tip of the island, was our ultimate destination and the reason that Kalsoy was on our must-see list to begin with. Not exactly for the town itself (although worthy in its own right), but for a spot that could not be seen upon arrival. Somewhere, over one of the hills that surrounded, would be this view of a distant lighthouse that we wanted to capture for ourselves.The day shaped up perfect for our arrival – only minor skirmishes with rain and patches of blue sky were even pushing through. We came into town and found an announcement board that we were sure would have the instructions on where to find the lighthouse. Or maybe even a map, or maybe we would even soon see a visible path.

Instead, we saw none of the above. Only the pretty little town and a very scant idea where to go based on what we had previously read.

So, we started walking.

An hour later, feet soaked and caked in sheep shit, we were back at the bottom of the hill just to the west of town. Pete gestured a bit further south, believing that we had passed over the correct starting point. I wondered if it was instead the mountain to the east. Wherever it was, it wasn’t where we were. And big billowy grey clouds began to intermittently spit rain. I couldn’t get a solid connection to research on my phone and to start over again somewhere else would likely mean we’d run out of daylight anyways. We gave up our quest. But the funny thing was, we weren’t disappointed. (Well, maybe a little, but that didn’t last long.)

Because we grabbed a snack out of the car, and sat on a cliff, and stared out at the Norwegian Sea, and wondered if we could throw a rock hard enough straight over the Arctic, would it hit Alaska or Russia or fall right into the Bering Strait? We had sheep stare at us intently, I debated testing a path that wrapped around the side of another mountain (Pete talked me out of it based on the swift drop to the sea that would happen with one misstep), and the sun briefly found us once again.

We took a slow drive back to the ferry, stopping again to catch new photos at new angles of light on Kalsoy.

We learned later that we had been going the right way, but just had not gone far enough. We sighed in disappointment, slightly chastised the regional tourism for not putting up signs or a path or anything to help us get there, but then, a few minutes later, realized we were actually happy for it.

In this world of carved up paths for tourists to follow, how often are we left to forge our own?

How often do we get to tramp into the wild to find (or not find) a worthy sight?

Not often enough, I tell you. But that is what a true adventure should be about. And that is what we found in Kalsoy.

how to do it

Driving into the town of Trøllanes, you’ll arrive at a T intersection. Park on the right, but then walk left at that T, and keep walking straight and up and up. You should find the lighthouse. (So we’ve since been told.) Such is the case often while hiking in the Faroe Islands – do your research before hand!

where to stay

High-end Hotel Foroyar is about a 5-10 minute drive from the Tórshavn city center, but the distance provides fantastic views over the city, harbor, and islands!

Mid-range Hotel Hafina is located in the Tórshavn city center, and according to the reviews has amazing views and great food!

Budget Guesthouse Marknagil is great for budget-seekers. This guesthouse is 30 minutes from town but provides everything needed to have a wonderful stay on the Faroe Islands.

It is of dreams, this place. Relatively unknown to tourists, Caribbean blue waters, and a bargain at every purchase. Before even unpacking our bags in Saranda we bragged on every network of this view that we would enjoy for three weeks.

We surmised on our last day, as we walked on the boardwalk under the hot spring sun, that we had probably just come a month too early, for what makes Saranda a paradise also makes it a bit of a torment. With very few tourists to contend with at this time of year, it also meant that little tourism infrastructure was in place.

We would have loved the opportunity to get out into the bay on kayaks but that was not available. We had our choice of just a handful of restaurants. Twice we climbed up to Lekursi Castle, and both times it was closed to visitors. When it’s off-season in Albania, it is quite literally off-season in Albania, more so than any other country we’ve been in.

The view did help, mind you, with morning coffee or afternoon cocktail in hand, and in between the mountain of behind-the-scenes work that we finally got to. When we did venture out we cruised the boardwalk between the frequent spring rain spells, past the vendors selling raw sunflower seeds scooped out of decorative tins.

We sat for drinks at one of the many open cafes (there is an incredible number of cafe/bars in this country, compared to actual restaurants), and eavesdropped on old men dressed in impeccable suits, ties and smart hats, just out to stroll in the streets and gossip with their friends on park benches.

But we did find ourselves getting a little restless.

What makes Saranda a paradise also makes it a bit of a torment.

It wasn’t until our last week that we struck out to explore more of the area – auspiciously choosing the very best day of weather since our arrival (largely because we both defiantly slept past the alarm the day before).

The rental car owner had warned us that our single-day plans were too ambitious, and he was right. The roads, while in relatively good condition, consistently wound up and down the coast and into the mountains that skirted it, keeping our speed minimal.

Pete took great pleasure in gliding around curves with few other cars to contend with, but he did always have to be mindful of other traffic – sheep, goats, cows, donkeys, people riding horses, a lady with an axe, and the occasional washout or pile of crumbled rocks. We didn’t get as far north or inland as was recommended but really could not claim disappointment with our day in the slightest.

This is how far we got.

Albanian Riviera Road Trip

Butrint

Less than 20km south of Saranda is the ancient city of Butrint, one of only two UNESCO sites in Albania (Berat being the other), containing artifacts and structures that date all the way back to the Bronze Age.

Of all the ancient ruins we’ve visited over the years, this small site is placed firmly among our favourites. With few other tourists to contend with, and in its natural swampy state inviting frogs and turtles to live among the ruins, we could have wiled away much more time enjoying Butrint if we didn’t have such a heavy day of touring planned.

Ksamil

Just north of Butrint is dreamy Ksamil – and it was in this tiny town that we declared that we had finally found the nicest beach in all of Europe. There are even three islands within swimming distance which become busier in summer with plenty of restaurants and bars. We were lucky to find one open during our off-season stop.

Monastery Beach

If Ksamil is too busy in the summer months, then just south of Saranda is secretive Monastery Beach. It is rocky in comparison, but also practically deserted. It takes a good climb up and down a steep hill to get there (I wouldn’t try to drive it!), and looks to be a very good spot for swimming.

The Blue Eye

Heading inland from Saranda we found the Blue Eye, a hypnotic spot where the Bistrice river begins (we had never seen the actual start of a river before). Clear blue water bubbles up into a pool more than 50 meters deep and begins its glide to the Ionian Sea.

Along the Coast

Heading north from Saranda, we had the intention of getting as far as Himare but didn’t quite make it. We had clearly underestimated the number of photo stops we would make along the way, and it was slow going as the road consistently dipped nearly seaside and then back up again, along thin mountain edges.

We made stops at nearly every available turnout, and even had one local graciously invite Pete up to his terrace for a better view.

The best part was that from beach level, we could still see snow-capped mountains in the distance. As lovers of both peaks and sea, the Albanian Riviera might just be our favourite place to get both.

How to Get Around the Albanian Riviera

It is possible to see all of the above via public transportation, but not in one day. Renting a car in Saranda is easy as there are several places to do so, and most of them can be found near the port.

Where to Stay on the Albanian Riviera

You want that gorgeous view in Saranda too? Then look no further than this steal of a deal we found with Airbnb. It is a modern and comfortable 1 bedroom apartment in an excellent location, and the owners were very hospitable and helpful.

The Faroe Islands are a chain of geologically impressive Islands situated in the remote north Atlantic Ocean. Not many people know where they are, often overshadowed by its neighbour Iceland, but believe me, they are more majestic and awesome. The Faroe Islands are made up of grass-carpeted sea cliff faces, picturesque villages, one iconic viewpoint after the next, and, of course, many hiking trails. The islands are connected by a series of underground tunnels or accessed by ferry. And they truly captivate its tourists with their rugged beauty and unspoiled landscapes.

These islands offer a unique blend of natural wonder and cultural authenticity, inviting travellers to explore winding roads, discover hidden gems, and connect with a resilient community deeply intertwined with their harsh surroundings.

Hiking routes in the Faroe Islands tend to be suited for the more advanced outdoor lovers but are certainly worth the trouble in elevation gain, steep descent, and great walking distance for the rewarding views at the end. Welcome to a world where lush green sea cliffs plunge into the deep blue sea, a scenic village nestles within fjords, and ever-changing weather creates an ethereal atmosphere.

Arriving to the Village of Gásadalur

Not so long ago, access to and from the small remote village of Gásadalur was only via a strenuous route through the highest mountains on the island of Vágar. It was the last town in the Faroe Islands to be connected by road until a tunnel was blasted through the mountain in 2004. With a striking waterfall at the base of the town, it has since become one of the hallmarks of the Faroe Islands.

We visited Gásadalur twice to capture it in different conditions, but I personally could not help but be drawn instead to the surrounding peaks. With a day left to spare in our itinerary, we spoke to a guide from a previous excursion about taking that arduous old postal route. He insisted that it was his favourite of all Faroe Islands hikes but was also concerned for our safety.

“I have seen your walking skills,” he said to me. “I think you should only do that hike if you have walking sticks.”

Ouch. I thought I had the whole left-foot-then-right-foot thing down pat. (Or maybe it should be right-foot-then-left-foot? I am so confused.)

I did appreciate his blunt honesty, though – I fully acknowledge my own klutziness and the fact that any hike in the Faroe Islands should not be taken lightly. With few signed paths to guide hikers and weather that can turn brutal in a moment, each needs to be taken with care.

Sound daunting? Maybe a bit. But that is what adventure is all about, and each of these excursions are also undeniably worth every effort.

Faroe Island Hikes

Mykines Island Hiking Trails

Another hallmark of the Faroe Islands, we say with confidence that this island offered the most stunning hiking we’ve ever done. Consider also that access to the island of Mykines is only possible by boat or helicopter, and a trip to Mykines Island becomes a truly unforgettable outing.

Head due west from town to hit the lighthouse, walking through fields shared with sheep, down steep steps along a cliffside, and across a bridge through a narrow strait teeming with bird life. This is an excellent place to see puffins when puffins are there – unfortunately low herring populations mean that they haven’t returned for the past two years.

Gjógv Hiking Trail

This was the first hike of our Faroe Islands Hikes, and it gave us an astounding introduction.

In the northern part of the tiny village is a gorge, walking along the outer bank of it will lead you up a sheep path that will give spectacular views back onto the neighbourhood. The going is slow with every few steps offering a photo op as waves crash below and white mist creeps up the cliff.

We continued up until we got to a closed gate with a sign written in Faroese. Estimating that it was a private property sign we didn’t continue on. We later found out that we could have continued on past the gate. It did mean private, but everybody ignores that and continues on their way up the cliff.

Saksun Hiking Trail

A journey to the top of Streynoy Island led us to Saksun. After parking the car, we headed straight down the path toward the water, having read that it was possible to reach the sea. Immediately to our right was a huge veil-like waterfall ending in the lake at the bottom of the valley. The path led us along the western shore, and we eventually made it to the black sand beach at the bottom.

Along this beach, we never felt quite so alone and desolate anywhere else on the islands – the chill of howling winds dug deep while we stepped over partially decomposed animal bones. After exploring more of the beach, we contemplated continuing on around the corner to get a glimpse of the North Atlantic Ocean, but the wind bit so fierce that we opted instead to make our way back to our car.

Kalsoy Hiking Trail – Kallur Lighthouse

We’ve already told this story about Kalsoy Faroe Islands. We made an attempt on this challenging trek to reach the Kallur lighthouse at Kallur on the island of Kalsoy, but a lack of directions, extremely soggy conditions, and the threat of more rain were the excuses we gave for not finding it.

Granted we did make the most of our day by exploring other parts of the island. But reaching the Kallur lighthouse is one of many reasons we are vowing to return to these islands.

Kirkjubøur Hiking Trail

Why drive to this important cultural spot when you can walk 7km of hiking trails over a mountain to it? Our destination was the small village of Kirkjubøur, the spiritual center of the Faroese society in the Middle Ages, and we were led by a local hiking guide directly up one side of the mountain and down the other to get there.

Along the way we passed cairns (pyramids of stones built to guide the way), and rocks carefully arranged as “speakers chair” and used as a meeting place for the Faroese over a century ago. Wind and fog prevented us from lingering for long on the hill.

Sørvágsvatn Hiking Trail

Beguiling images online brought us to this destination. Twice. A miscommunication with our local guide meant that we actually walked right past the desired spot the first time, and so we knew we must return as our days wound down.

Walking up a specific cliff would give us the perspective of the largest lake (Lake Sørvágsvatn) in the Faroe Islands as an infinity pool, and that shot was not one we were going to miss.

To start, find the “old houses by the biggest lake” (you really do need no further instructions than that). Walk along the east side of it and trek as far as you can go to see a waterfall cascade over the edge into the North Atlantic Ocean below.

On the way back, climb up the highest cliff to get the infinity perspective looking back. The whole trip should take 3-4 hours.

More Tips for Hiking in the Faroe Islands

There are a few things to keep in mind when venturing out hiking in the Faroe Islands.

1.Tell somebody what your plans are. Nobody will probably know you are gone, and most likely, you will not see too many other people on your hike. If something goes wrong at least somebody might have an idea where you might be. Another option is to higher a local guide if you can find one.

2.Be prepared. Bring extra clothing, food and water. Weather can change very quickly, and people have been known to get caught in storms. Likewise, bring proper hiking boots. Always check the local weather forecast, and don’t assume that it will stay as predicted. In short, expect the unexpected.

3.Don’t expect there to be a map or even a path. Your shoes will get soaked (waterproof is recommended) and they will be caked in mud and sheep shit. Basically everywhere on the islands is a walking path. Don’t be afraid to explore, but be aware of your surroundings.

4.Don’t get too close to the edge. The Faroe Islands are raw beauty, and they don’t put up guard rails. So be smart and stay a safe distance from the edge. And there is a rock on top of the Island of Mykines, which is a memorial to those who have gone over the edge.

5.It is recommended to bring a partner. Everyone likes their quiet time, and I even like to climb mountains on my own. But this is one destination where having someone else there to keep our limits in check certainly helps. Again, if anything should go wrong (and it can), having a second person there will always help.

Planning on Visiting the Faroe Islands

Where to Stay in the Faroe Islands

There are plenty of places to stay and hotels on the Faroe Islands.

Hotel Foroyar

Hotel Foroyar is about a 5-10 minute drive from the Tórshavn city center, but the distance provides fantastic views over the city, harbor, and islands! Breakfast here is included.

Hotel Hafnia

Hotel Hafnia is located in the Tórshavn city center, and has amazing views and great food! The rooms are chic and comfortable and the staff is extremely pleasant. It’s highly rated for these reasons.

visitHOMES Faroe Islands

visitHOMES Faroe Islands is great spot for budget-seekers. This guesthouse is located in Leirvík and provides everything needed to have a wonderful stay on the Faroe Islands. It’s the perfect base for exploring Eysturoy and the other islands, but just be aware about the tunnel tolls.

Tours in the Faroe Islands

Tours make it easy to experience some of the best things to do when visiting the Faroe Islands.

Getting Around the Faroe Islands

The best way around the Faroe Islands is by rental car. To find a rental car and the best rates we use RentalCars.com

From freely exploring remote locations to setting your pace, a rental car empowers you to uncover the archipelago’s dramatic landscapes on your own terms. There isn’t really much of a beaten path here, so it’s not hard to get off of it.

With the flexibility to adapt to changing weather, the convenience of personal space, and the chance to connect with locals, a car enhances your adventure, ensuring you make the most of every moment of life out in the swelling North Atlantic Ocean.

I’m embarrassed to admit that I didn’t really know this French archipelago existed. I blame it on my western roots and the fact that I was a pretty sheltered kid. I’m sure I’d heard of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, but it might as well have been across the Atlantic instead of mere kilometers from Newfoundland. That’s how distant and foreign it felt.

It wasn’t until the last few years that I started to hear more about it. Given that the islands are reachable in just over an hour flight from Halifax, my interest grew. France? In an hour? We have to see this.

So when the invite came for us to explore and report back on our journey, we jumped at the chance. And the result was more than we could have ever expected: the islands wowed us, surprised us, and left us plotting our to-do list for our inevitable future visit.

Four Days on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

First…The Practical Information

Getting to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

There are two ways to arrive to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon from Canada: by plane or ferry.

We flew from Halifax with Air Saint-Pierre and the flight took less than 90 minutes. These flights are thrice weekly, all year long. There are also direct flights from St. John’s, Newfoundland and from Montreal, QC. The ferry to Saint-Pierre operates out of Fortune, Newfoundland; it takes 90 minutes and runs multiple times per week.

How to Get Around

The easiest way to get around Saint-Pierre is to rent a car. The island is only 25 square kilometres, so don’t expect long drives to anywhere. We, however, didn’t have a car and also managed fine by booking independent tours and walking a lot! There are also taxis, but we didn’t need one during our four days and we enjoyed getting our steps in.

On Miquelon and Langlade, it’s a different story. The islands are much bigger and a car would be helpful if you want to explore. The town is quite walkable, but most hiking and other adventures, especially if you want to see the isthmus connecting Miquelon to Langlade, require a drive.

We spent four nights on Saint-Pierre and then ferried to Miquelon for one night. Below, we’ve divided our recommended activities into sections for each of the two islands.

Our Time on Saint-Pierre

Things to Do

Sightseeing

Saint-Pierre, despite being quite small, is very beautiful and there is much to see. We started off our trip taking a sightseeing taxi tour offered by Logan from Taxi Salomon. A local from Saint-Pierre, Logan drove us to some his favourite spots and lookout points to get us aquainted with the island. It was a perfect way to start off a trip and get an idea of where we wanted to explore over the next few days.

After we had the lay of the land, Pete was eager to explore more on foot on his morning walks. He scoped out spots to take photographs and each morning, he set off to find something new (while getting his steps in).

Hiking

For being such a small island, there are so many different hikes that you can take on Saint-Pierre. And with a maximum elevation of just over 200 metres, nothing is too strenuous. Over the four days we visited we did two different hikes: Le Diamant and La Vallée des 7 Étangs (Valley of Seven Lakes).

Le Diamant was a short 3 km hike (more like a walk) along the south-western coast of Saint-Pierre. Most of the trail is a boardwalk that twists and turns along the shores. This hike gives sweeping views of the coastline, one of its many lakes, and in the distance, the bluffs are dotted with colourful homes.

On our last day on Saint-Pierre, We joined Gilles from Escapade Insulaire for a 4 km hike to see the seven lakes. Along the way we took a short detour to climb to the highest peak on the island (only 207 ms) for a 360 degree view of the island and to enjoy a coffee. It was a perfect morning hike and the weather agreed with us.

Gilles offers multiple hike options depending on capability; from quick and easy walks to multiple day treks on both Saint-Pierre and Langlade. He also runs tours to south eastern Newfoundland for more adventurous hikers.

Visit L’ Île aux Marins (Sailor Island)

Right across from the island of Saint-Pierre is another that we couldn’t take our eyes off of: L’ Île-aux-Marins. From afar, it looked like buildings on the island were frozen in time. We weren’t wrong! Île-aux-Marins was formerly home almost exclusively to cod fisherman and their families.

At its peak, the island had over 600 inhabitants. Now, it is largely abandoned, while some of the buildings on the island are protected; others serve as summer cottages. There is no running water or power and homeowners either have to rely on solar or generators for power.

It was a rough life during the prime fishing days (up until the 1960s). Winters were harsh, and without powered boats, getting to Saint-Pierre for provisions and services wasn’t an easy task. And when they fished, their catch (mainly cod) needed to be laid out on large rock beds to dry, which required 8 full days of sun. On non-sunny days, the fish needed to be covered in salt. Because they often worked barefoot, the fishermen were called “La Pieds Rouges” (the red feet) as their feet were often covered in cod blood.

Visiting L’ Île-aux-Marins is a must-do when visiting Saint-Pierre. It was helpful to be led by Eléa Guided Tours because our guide was able to get us into locked buildings. However, there are informative placards along the walking paths if you want to visit on your own.

Don’t miss Ligne Verte

This stop was an unexpected highlight for us. Ligne Verte started out simply as a hydroponic lab to fill the need for fresh produce on the rocky island that is typically inhospitable for plants. With the ability to grow up to 9,000 plants at once, the team are helping to elevate the food scene on the island by experimenting and producing items otherwise not available.

It then grew to include a mycology lab with the ability to produce 2 tonnes of mushrooms a year, and finally, Distillerie du Goéland was added. Our tour of the entire facility included sampling everything from Japanese basil to the distillery’s excellent potato vodka and Gin n’ Roses (be still my Gen X heart!). The enthusiasm of our guide and owner, Alex, was convincingly palpable, and his eagerness to bring gourmet options to the residents of islands (and to us, the visitors!) is already making a difference.

Learn about the Dories with Les Zigotos

One of the things that Pete was eagerly looking forward to while visiting Saint-Pierre was learning about the history of the dory fishing boats, and taking one over to Grand Colombier to see puffins and other seabirds. Pete’s grandfather was a dory fisherman on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, and had visited Saint-Pierre numerous times before Pete was even born.

Les Zigotos are a group of friends who are passionate to keep the history of the Saint-Pierre dories alive. Their small boathouse museum along the waterfront gives visitors an idea of the importance Saint-Pierre held in the construction of the wooden fishing boats. These friends give dory tours that include sightseeing and fishing. We hopped into the boat with the hopes of making it to Grand Colombier to see the seabirds, but unfortunately it would not be possible, as the seas were too rough for us to go very far. Instead we toured inside the break wall and heard stories about the dories of Saint-Pierre.

Where to Eat and Drink

Restaurants

What excited us the most about visiting Saint-Pierre and Miquelon was our desire for French cuisine! We made the most of our four days on the island, visiting some of the top-rated restaurants. Some highlights from our trip include:

• Scallop crudo from Auberge Quatre Temps.
• A pea and mint cold soup with cracker and cream and Octopus in red wine reduction from Le Bar a Quai. Other patrons around us also lauded the cod burger (we didn’t try it).
• French onion soup, escargot, and seafood salad from Le Select.
• A gallette filled with smoked bacon, eggs, onion jam, cream from Le Roc Cafe.
• My fave was the steak frites from Les Petits Graviers (I’m still drooling about it), while Pete loved the duck breast there as well.

It’s highly recommended to make reservations at all these spots.

Cafes and Boulangeries

We whole-heartedly took advantage of being able to pop into cafes for a quick espresso and French pastry treat as we wandered. Our favourite cafe (we went twice!) was L’Essentiel, the vibes and decor of this place made it very attractive. We sipped on cappucinos and Dalene tried one of their tarts generously filled with chocolate ganache.

As for French bakeries, our go-to was Boulangerie Patisserie des Graves that was located right next to our hotel. Their mille-feuiles and eclairs were to die for. And the choco-pains. And the… well you get the point.

Shops and Markets

It’s no shock that we went home with several French delicacies tucked into our suitcases. We bought onion confit, fig jam, and duck pate, just to name a few. There are a number of shops throughout Saint-Pierre and if it was Pete’s choice he would have come home with a lot more goodies. One shop not to miss is Chez Julien. Being both a deli and grocery, this shop had all the French cheeses, meats, and other delicacies the island had to offer.

Where to Stay

Les Terrasses du Port

Sitting just around the bend from the downtown core of Saint-Pierre, our stay at Les Terrasses du Port was comfortable and luxurious. Not only were the rooms spacious and agreeable, but there is even a small spa onsite we took advantage of. It’s a mini, indoor version of a Nordic spa, with a variety of temperate stations to rotate through. The best part is that it is built for four people max, and with our two-hour booking, we had it all to ourselves.

From the hotel, it’s a pleasant ten-minute walk along the waterfront to all the action downtown.

Miquelon and Langlade

The islands of Miquelon and Langlade are bigger in size, but much smaller population-wise. Miquelon is the more populated of the two, Langlade home to only summer cottages and little infrastructure. There are two ways to arrive here: by ferry or plane. We took the ferry to Miquelon from Saint-Pierre and the journey took about 1.5 hours; it was quite relaxing, with WIFI on board, and a cafeteria with coffee and snacks in case we got hungry.

When we arrived to the sleepy town of Miquelon, we quickly found out there is one way to get around independently: walking! There are no taxis, and car rentals are difficult to come by (if you want to be sure to have a car, rent one in Saint-Pierre and bring it on the ferry).

Just a few steps from the ferry terminal, we made a stop at the Nature Centre (see below) before walking to our hotel.

Things to Do

Visit the House of Nature and the Environment

It was quickly evident to us how much the locals cherish the pristine nature of the islands, and there are many steps being taken to ensure that they are around for generations to enjoy. The Nature Centre is a worthy visit, there are interactive displays throughout along with a video (subtitled in English) to learn about the nature and animals of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.

Be forewarned: a lot of the information in the Centre is in French. The subtitled video was what we enjoyed the most.

Take a Gourmet Tour with Patricia

Since we didn’t have a rental car to tour ourselves on Miquelon, we took a Gourmet Tour with Patricia to see the sights and taste the foods native to Miquelon. The tour starts at the Auberge de L’Ile (where we also stayed), with a typical lunch that included creamed lobster while watching a video that gives insight into some history on Miquelon.

After lunch, our group hopped into vans and were showed some of the fantastic viewpoints of Miquelon. Aat each stop, we were treated to a small snack of local flavours.

We sampled goat cheese at a goat farm that serves both islands. We tasted locally brewed Miqu’ale atop a peak looking out over the town and landscape of Miquelon. And finally, we tried local macaroons while resting along the Isthmus that separates Miquelon and Langlade. The tour was a great way to see the island.

Walk Around Town

Like in Saint-Pierre, Pete was determined to get all his steps in and continued his morning routine by capturing images throughout the town of Miquelon. There were two main streets that ran in and out of town, and the colourful pallet of houses gave way to a cute fishing town. Life here felt quiet, simple and relaxing.

Hiking and Cycling

The nature and solitude of Miquelon is appealing; when it came time to leave after just night, we were disappointed we hadn’t allowed oursevles more time to explore the hiking trails. We didn’t even get to see Langlade, which our guide from Saint-Pierre hike said is his favourite area to spend a few days exploring. Next time!

We did see quite a number of people cycling; ebike rentals are possible on the island.

What and Where to Eat

Restaurants

In the evening we dined at Chez Adrien, a casual, family-run bistro with excellent food and a really good beer menu.

Morgan, the owner and Miquelon local, served up a juicy cheeseburger for me and Pete enjoyed the evening special (a rice bowl with chicken). The food was fresh and had very good flavour, and the local beers were cold and delicious.

Boulangeries and Shops

As mentioned, there isn’t too much on Miquelon to serve the ~600 redsidents, but they do have a fairly new boulangerie serving up tasty pastries and breads. You can’t miss it: it’s right in the centre of town, next to the House of Nature and Environment. I recommend getting there early in the morning, because it seemed all the locals do so for their morning breakfast.

There were also a couple markets in town that were stocked with delicious French cheese and most staples in case we needed anything.

Where to Stay

There are not too many places to stay on Miquelon, but we were quite pleased with our one-night stay at Auberge de L’Ile. The rooms were spacious, clean and comfortable. And the breakfast the next morning before catching our ferry was quite generous with fresh bread, cheese and goat milk yogurt from the local farm.

Another option on Miquelon is to stay at Les Cabanes du Cap. These tiny homes are perched along the cliff-side at the beginning of Du Cap and are owned by the same folks operating Chez Adrien restaurant. The cabins are eco-conscious while providing a bit of luxury to their guests and they also have a sauna on site to rest aching bodies after hiking.

Bordeaux may be famous for wine, but let’s be honest—this city is far more than vineyards in pretty bottles.

Think grand squares, riverside strolls, art that rivals Paris, and food that’ll ruin you for supermarket baguettes forever.

Whether you’re here for a weekend or a week, Bordeaux serves up the good life on a silver platter (or perhaps in a crystal glass).

1.Sip (and Learn) at Cité du Vin

This isn’t just a wine museum—it’s Willy Wonka for wine lovers.

At Cité du Vin, you’ll swirl your way through exhibits, tastings, and stories from wine regions across the globe.

Bonus: the top floor bar offers panoramic views over Bordeaux with a glass in hand.

2.Stroll the Place de la Bourse & Miroir d’Eau

If Bordeaux had a “most photogenic” award, this duo would win.

By day, the elegant Place de la Bourse shimmers in 18th-century glory.

By night, its reflection in the Miroir d’Eau (world’s largest reflecting pool) doubles the drama. Instagram eats it up.

3.Explore Bordeaux by Bike

Bordeaux is wonderfully flat and bike-friendly.

Rent a vélo and roll along the Garonne River promenade, stopping at leafy squares and cafés as you go.

It’s sightseeing with a breeze in your hair — much better than a stuffy bus.

4.Wander Rue Sainte-Catherine

Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street, Rue Sainte-Catherine is a marathon of boutiques, cafés, and people-watching.

Start at Place de la Comédie for designer names and end near Place de la Victoire, where vintage shops and student haunts keep things affordable (and fun).

5.Visit the Bassins de Lumières

An old WWII submarine base transformed into a dazzling digital art space.

Bassins de Lumières projects masterpieces onto cavernous walls, reflected in pools of water.

The result? You’re literally standing inside the art. Trust me, even museum skeptics get goosebumps.

6.Climb the Pey-Berland Tower

Sure, you’ll huff and puff up 231 steps, but the view over Bordeaux’s rooftops is worth it.

The Pey-Berland Tower, next to the cathedral, gives you a bird’s-eye look at the city — with fewer crowds than Paris’s towers.

7.Picnic in Jardin Public

Every great city has a park where locals escape, and for Bordeaux it’s the Jardin Public.

Pack some cheese, wine (naturally), and pastries, then sprawl under the trees.

It’s peak French lifestyle, minus the clichés.

8.Take a Wine Tour to Saint-Émilion

A trip to Bordeaux without visiting vineyards is like Paris without the Eiffel Tower.

Saint-Émilion, a UNESCO-listed medieval village surrounded by vines, is less than an hour away.

Cobblestone streets, limestone cellars, and endless tasting opportunities await.

Cheers.

Where to Stay in Bordeaux

From chic boutiques to budget-friendly beds, Bordeaux caters to every style.

Luxury: InterContinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel — think Belle Époque elegance, Michelin-starred dining, and spa bliss right on Place de la Comédie.

Budget: Mama Shelter Bordeaux — funky décor, a rooftop bar, and surprisingly affordable rates.

Mid-Range: Hotel de Tourny — small, stylish, and perfectly located for exploring on foot.

Tours Worth Booking

If planning isn’t your strong suit (or you just prefer someone else to drive after a few tastings), these tours are spot-on:

Day Trip to Arcachon Bay – Swap wine for oysters and climb Europe’s tallest sand dune, Dune du Pilat.

Saint-Émilion Wine Tour – Half or full-day trips with tastings at top châteaux.

Bordeaux River Cruise – See the city from the Garonne with a glass in hand.

Food Walking Tour – Sample canelés, cheeses, and charcuterie while hearing the stories behind them.

Our Experience

Wine and I don’t get along. I suppose I started it. Not with any intention though – I can either curse it as one of the many pitfalls of aging or blame it on my youth and the way in which I repeatedly drowned my weekday sorrows in liquid-y weekend fun. Either way, my body now rejects alcohol, and wine most vehemently. I can barely finish a glass of red before pain begins to seep into my brain.

And so to visit Bordeaux seemed preposterous, blasphemous even. It’s a “must stop” on a south of France road trip and one thing that Bordeaux is famous worldwide for is their lovely fermented grapes. But on our three day visit, I didn’t even sniff a sample.

Was I a waste of space? Did I fail as a traveler and explorer by forgoing this renowned cultural experience? I can see how some may say that.

Without wine tours to the countryside, tasting cruises on the river Garonne and the like, it might appear to others that there is little other reason to be there. And I did have to wonder myself, but upon arrival both Pete and I were very pleasantly surprised. It is a great city to enjoy our favourite activity – simply wandering about – and we spent almost our entire time doing exactly that.

There are palaces and a grand opera house to be seen, several perfectly manicured parks to linger in. The Miroir d’Eau swallowed up hours of our time, watching kids run through it as a giant puddle, and then dance in its rising fog later. We found fairy tales down alley ways. We eavesdropped on delicious gossip in French tongues while delighting our own with some of the best cuisine we found in our weeks in the country.

There’s a vibrant youthful flair to the city, which was amusing but also a mournful reminder of those days when I could have joined them with a glass in hand.

My plan has always been to age as disgracefully as possible…and thus wine and I need to make up.

(Maybe more time in Bordeaux will do the trick…or a visit to Saint Pierre and Miquelon as it’s much closer to Canada.)

Final Pour

Bordeaux is one of those rare cities that balances elegance with ease.

One minute you’re wandering historic squares, the next you’re sipping wine in a medieval cellar or watching digital Van Gogh swirl across submarine walls.

It’s a city that rewards curiosity—and good walking shoes.

Modena, nestled in the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy, is a city steeped in history, culture, and, without question, culinary excellence. Its well-preserved medieval and Renaissance architecture, including the Modena Cathedral and the iconic Ghirlandina Tower, is a testament to its rich heritage.

It’s the birthplace of balsamic vinegar and home to exquisite traditional Italian food, Modena is a paradise for food enthusiasts. It boasts a vibrant cultural scene with museums, galleries, and annual festivals celebrating music and local traditions. The city’s ties to the automotive industry, with Ferrari and Maserati headquartered here, add to its allure.

Modena is a thriving and dynamic city that invites visitors to savour its history, culinary delights, and contemporary charm. It’s a reason why we needed to visit and why we loved it so much.

Our Experience in Modena

Our nephew Avery surprised us in the first few days of our trip when he barely pulled out his camera and said that he really had no desire to. “It’s about the experience” was a statement I had not expected to hear.

At 18 years young, and on only his first visit overseas, he declined a quick visit to Pisa to take the legendary selfie, and was less in awe of the big tourist sights than I expected him to be. And in a last unexpected twist when discussing his favourite parts of the trip, he declared the tiny city of Modena as a very close second to Florence, beating out Venice, Rome, and Cinque Terre

If I could have anticipated his desires more closely, I might have planned the trip a little differently and a little more into the unknown. But our original plan to hit up the Emilia Romagna region was for our own selfish purposes: we wanted to return for the amazing food we had discovered on our last visit, and Pete wanted to get behind the wheel of a Ferrari.

We kinda felt like we were dragging Avery away from the tourist route all first-time travellers should see and just hoped he wouldn’t mind. He didn’t, and instead he raved, and not just for the thrill ride in a Ferrari. The exquisite dishes we ate won him over as the best food from Italy we had.

With 25 year aged balsamic vinegar drizzled over parmesan, prosciutto that melted in our mouths, and the most luxurious pasta we’ve ever eaten, Ave actually slowed down his frantic eating pace to savour each bite. For an 18 year-old male with an insatiable appetite, this is the biggest compliment he could give.

Tips for Visiting Modena, Italy

How To Get There

To get to Modena, Italy, you can fly into nearby airports like Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport or Milan Malpensa Airport and then head to the train station. From Bologna, it’s only short train ride to Modena. If coming from Milan, you can catch a high-speed train to Modena.

Renting a car is also an option for a road trip, which is certainly the more scenic and slow-paced way to do it. Additionally, long-distance buses serve Modena from various Italian cities.

When To Visit

The ideal time to visit Modena, Italy, varies depending on your personal preferences. Spring, from April to June, presents a delightful option with mild weather, blooming landscapes, and a vibrant atmosphere which is a great option for first time travellers or for those who want a smaller crowd.

Summer, from June to August, can be warm but be warned, it is over-crowded with tourists and events.

Early autumn, spanning September to November, offers pleasant weather and a more peaceful experience with harvest festivals and cultural events. This is usually the best option.

Winter, from December to February, is the low tourist season, making it perfect for those seeking a quieter visit and lower prices, although it can be chillier.

The Best Things To Do in Modena

We had a tough time narrowing down our list of things to do in Modena. From indulging in cheese and gelato, racing performance sports cars, taking in the sights, or immersing in the history and culture of the town, there was a lot to do.

Indulge in Gelato

Satisfy your sweet tooth with authentic Italian gelato from one of the city’s Gelaterias. GIOELIA Cremeria gelato shop was a place that we frequented twice daily (it was seriously the best we had in all of Italy–and we tested a LOT).

Overall, though, we revered the calm. We did not miss shuffling among hundreds and hearing English more often than not. Here, we felt like we were cherishing a real slice of Italy. Easily it’s one of the best things to do in Modena.

Explore Piazza Grande

Modena’s Piazza Grande, also known as Piazza Roma, is the city’s central square, steeped in history and surrounded by stunning architecture. Dominated by the Modena Cathedral and the iconic Ghirlandina Tower, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it’s a hub for cultural events and dining.

This lively square offers a glimpse into Modena’s rich heritage and is one of the main things to do in Modena while exploring the city’s historic center. And it only gets more magical when dusk sets in, and the golden hue from the lights reflects off the Piazza’s cobblestone streets.

Climb to the Top of Ghirlandina Tower

Located in Piazza Grande, the Ghirlandina Tower (Duomo di Modena) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and pretty hard to miss, as it sits above everything else in the city center.

We had the chance to climb the bell tower to reach the top, and were rewarded with panoramic views of Modena and the surrounding countryside. Be prepared to go up though, the ascent consists of a series of narrow staircases and can be a bit of a tight squeeze. It’s one of the “top” things to do in Modena. Literally. See what we did there?

Visit Modena Cathedral

The stunning Modena Cathedral (Duomo di Modena) is another UNESCO World Heritage site known for its Romanesque architecture and intricate carvings. It is also located in Piazza Grande in the city centre.

Inside the cathedral, you’ll find a treasure trove of artistic and historical riches. Notable highlights include beautiful frescoes, a stunning mosaic in the apse, and an intricately carved pulpit. Modena Cathedral is not only a testament to the artistic achievements of its time but also a living symbol of Modena’s historical and cultural heritage.

Savour Balsamic Vinegar

Modena is renowned as the “birthplace of traditional balsamic vinegar”, known as “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.” Tasting it in its place of origin ensures an authentic and unparalleled experience. Who knew how intricate, delicate and DELICIOUS a 25 year-old balsamic could taste? We were lucky and very appreciative to try it.

Modena’s balsamic vinegar is deeply ingrained in the local culinary culture (to say the least). By participating in a lunch and balsamic vinegar tasting tour, you gain insight into this rich heritage and its significance in Italian cuisine. You get to visit a balsamic vinegar factory and of course, have lunch!

And what’s even better than trying the best balsamic vinegar? Trying the best balsamic vinegar with the best parmesan cheese. Trust us, it doesn’t get much better than this.

The Enzo Ferrari Museum

Seeing these cars in person has always been a childhood dream. I grew up always wanting a Testarossa. So visiting this cutting-edge museum and uncovering the rich history of one of the globe’s most esteemed brands was a must. I was instantly captivated by the futuristic facade of the building, resembling an oversized yellow hood.

Upon entering, I stepped into the expansive hall, which hosts a diverse array of exhibitions, offering the chance to delve into the fascinating history of Ferrari and its visionary founder, Enzo. The Enzo Ferrari Museum is one of the most popular things to do in Modena, and definitely worth visiting for those interested in a stunning collection of historic vehicles.

Be sure to book your ticket for the Ferrari Museum in advance.

Test Drive a Ferrari

Seeing the Ferrari museum was one thing. But getting to sit behind the wheel and open it up on the motorway. Hell yes. Test driving a Ferrari in something anyone can do in Modena. To be fair, Ferrari is actually what predominantly drew us there in the first place, and the experience needed to be shared:

This is the perfect activity for sports car fans and regular day-trippers alike.

Want to test drive a Ferrari? You can do it, but be warned, it isn’t cheap. Although we can 100% say that the experience is certainly worth it.

Stroll through Parco Novi Sad

Situated in the city center, this charming urban park known for its tranquil ambiance, lush greenery, and family-friendly amenities, including a playground. This well-maintained oasis provides a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle, offering opportunities for leisurely strolls, picnics, and cultural events.

Visitors can also enjoy panoramic views of Modena’s skyline and easy access to nearby historical attractions, making it a beloved spot for relaxation and exploration.

Visit Modena’s Markets

Modena’s markets are a bustling and vibrant part of the city’s cultural and culinary scene, with many located around or nearby Piazza Grande. From the Mercato Albinelli, a historic covered market where you can find an abundance of fresh produce, meats, parmesan cheese, and local delicacies, to the Mercato Storico, known for its array of artisanal products and gourmet treats, these markets provide a sensory journey through the flavours and traditions of the Emilia-Romagna region.

Exploring Modena’s markets is not just a shopping experience; it’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the daily life and gastronomic richness of this charming Italian city.

Take a Food Tour

You can’t visit Modena and not take a food tour while you’re there. Nestled in the center of Emilia Romagna’s ‘Food Valley,’ Modena serves as the epicentre for the creation of some of Italy’s most renowned gourmet delicacies.

This is one of the most popular Modena food tours. You will get picked up and dropped off at your hotel, and along the way you’ll get to experience:

• 5 gourmet pit-stops including:
• Breakfast with special bread and cappuccino
• Tigelle and Lambrusco wine

It’s the perfect way to experience a taste of the region’s culinary highlights on an exclusive food tour, allowing you to savour its most iconic offerings all within just a few hours.

The Kindness of The Modenese People

There are plenty of things to do in Modena that make it a wonderful place to visit, but it’s truly the people that make it so special.

The final event that exalted Modena occurred after our trip up the Ghirlandina tower. Or should I say, after that trip in which I somehow dropped my wallet without noticing, when a harmonious string of events saw the police track me down at our hotel and drop if off before we left the next morning.

Would that have happened in Rome? Or Florence? Probably not, and convinces me yet again that it is the off-beat tourist destinations that provide the most endearing experiences. And I’m glad that Ave didn’t have to just tolerate this side-trip, but instead enjoyed it as much as we did.

Where We Stayed

There are plenty of options for hotels in Modena.

Hotel Libertà

The lovely Hotel Libertà was right in the center of the action and very comfortable for our two-day stay. It’s right in the heart of Modena, close to everything (including the train station) and, more importantly, gelato shops.

Tours We Recommend

There are plenty of things to do in Modena including learning about the secrets of parmesan and balsamic vinegar, a trip to the Lamborghini or Ferrari Museum with a food tour, or learning to make the freshest and most delicious pasta and tiramisu you will ever eat.

Final Thoughts

We don’t often get to play tour guide to family and friends, but when we do, I have been pleasantly surprised to find their experiences most enriched by those that I cherish as well.

Like my Mom choosing Burhaniye over Istanbul, and now Avery lauding Modena over most of Italy. Their reactions have mirrored mine, and I don’t know if it is a familial traveller gene within, or if this is indicative of humankind as a whole.

I don’t want to start the beaten debate of traveller-versus-tourist, but I think that deep down everyone would enjoy a trip off the well-treaded path, they just need to give themselves the chance to do so. And with Italy being one of the most frequented countries in the world – Modena is the perfect place to start.

If cities were novels, Gdańsk’s Old Town would be a page-turner you can’t put down.

Wedged on Poland’s northern coast, this once-thriving port has seen everything from medieval merchants to shipyard strikes, and somehow it’s still managed to look like it belongs on a storybook cover. Think colourful merchant houses, cobblestone streets, and spires that seem to poke holes in the Baltic sky.

So, if you’re plotting a trip to Poland and wondering whether to make time for Gdańsk — spoiler alert: you absolutely should.

Wandering the Old Town (a.k.a. Things You Can’t Miss)

• Dlugi Targ (Long Market): This is Old Town’s catwalk, lined with pastel-hued facades and capped by the impressive Neptune Fountain. Perfect for people-watching and pretending you’re in a Renaissance painting.
• St. Mary’s Basilica: It’s one of the largest brick churches in the world. Climb its 400+ steps for views that will either take your breath away or make you regret skipping cardio.
• The Crane (Żuraw): This hulking medieval port crane is part museum, part reminder that the city’s economy once ran on muscle and pulleys.
• Motława River Promenade: Grab a gelato, stroll along the water, and watch the mix of old galleons and modern yachts bob side by side.
• European Solidarity Centre: A sleek, modern museum just outside the Old Town that dives into the rise of the Solidarity movement and how it shaped Europe. Heavy history, brilliantly told.

Where to Stay in Gdańsk’s Old Town

One of the best things about Gdańsk is that you can stay smack in the middle of Old Town without breaking the bank. Hotels and guesthouses are everywhere, and most keep the charm factor high.

Budget-Friendly

• La Guitarra Hostel: Quirky, social, and right by the river. Perfect if you’d rather spend your money on pierogi than pillows.
• Stay Inn Hotel: Affordable but stylish, with comfy rooms and a location across from St. Mary’s Basilica.

Mid-Range Sweet Spot

• PURO Gdańsk Stare Miasto: Modern, hip, and walking distance from everything. Think Netflix in your room, good coffee downstairs, and design that feels more boutique than the price tag suggests.
• Hotel Artus: Steps from Long Market, it has cozy rooms with a splash of character and great value for the location.

Splurge-Worthy

• Radisson Blu Hotel, Gdańsk: Old Town location with big, plush rooms and just the right amount of polish.
• Hotel Podewils: A boutique stay overlooking the Motława River. More intimate, with views that will make you feel like you own a ship or two.

Our Experience

There is no doubt that old town Gdańsk is pretty.

Muted hues of orange, yellow, green and more alternate on the skinny buildings. Some are adorned with elaborate casings and paintings. The clock tower anchors and dominates Dluga (Long) street, with St Mary’s Church, the largest brick church in Europe, just off to the side.

But as we wandered through Gdańsk old town, I couldn’t help but be distracted by something else.

“It’s all fake!” the lady at the tourist information office had bluntly proclaimed just minutes before our maiden walk into Old Town. “All the decoration is not real. It all sits on top of concrete Soviet buildings.”

90% of Gdańsk was destroyed in WWII (then known as the “Free City of Danzig”); in fact, the first shots of the war were fired just a few miles away from the Old Town as Germany began their invasion of Poland. Following the end of the war, much debate existed over how to reconstruct the city. Harsh anti-German sentiment wanted to rid the city of all remnants of it (leading up to the war, Germans constituted the large majority of the population), but much debate continued over how to reconstruct it. An homage to the old days, and which period? Modern architecture? Socialist realism (Soviet)?

The result? A complete mix of old and new with a variety of influences within the structures, and the old world painted right on top. And, as another traveler suggested to us: “it’s kinda Disney-ish”.

I could understand where he and the tourist office employee were coming from. Some elements to the facade are questionable, over-the-top even, and definitely don’t speak to the “old world” feel that is intended.

But ultimately, how can it? This small city, all but destroyed in a war, will never have all the elegant antiquity that other cities across Europe manifest. But that doesn’t mean it is lacking for charm – spending just five minutes in the center we were enamoured with the many talents of the variety of street performers, the clock striking on the impressive Town Hall tower, and the buzz of boats and people along the canal.

Looking beyond the outward appearance of any place should be the endeavour of any thoughtful traveler anyways. Taken at face value, and being mindful of its tragic past, Gdańsk carries considerable appeal, well beyond its curb.

Final Thoughts

Gdańsk’s Old Town is the kind of place where you can spend an entire day gawking at architecture, another day untangling its history, and yet another just lingering by the river with an ice cream in hand.

It’s compact, walkable, and brimming with atmosphere—the kind of destination that sneaks up on you and ends up being the highlight of your Poland trip.

So, bring good shoes, a decent appetite, and maybe a camera that can handle pastel overload.

Gdańsk is waiting.

He was dressed smartly in a collared navy button-down and crisp khaki pants. I don’t think he worked for the transit authority in Athens, but instead waited by the gates to help any travelers who looked perplexed by the system. There were a lot of them. “And watch your stuff,” he routinely called out after giving directions and sending commuters on their way.

I purchased my ticket but saw no map and was unsure of where to go next. I approached the elderly man and asked which train I needed to get to the Halandri stop. He furrowed his brow; I had clearly stumped him. No matter though, as the gentleman turned and called out my stop name until another local perked up and offered to help. The young lady waited as I crossed the turnstile and then walked me to the staircase that would lead to the proper platform. “Go down and turn left,” she said. “And watch your stuff!” I expressed a rush of gratitude for this quick but crucial exchange. (The pair’s eagerness to help reminded me of our time in Turkey, but I dared not tell any locals that. I was warned to not even mistakenly call a Greek coffee a Turkish coffee, so I knew to keep further comparisons to myself).

I had embarked on solo travel in Athens worried for my nine days alone, but instead, I felt well taken care of at every step. This capital of Greece proved true to its namesake. As I set out to explore the city and beyond, Athena the Protector kept me safe and very, very happy.

A few of my standout experiences are documented below.

Temple of Poseidon

I’m not a bold solo traveler – I rarely head out on my own – but I found myself feeling inspired on this trip. I stayed outside the tourist area (although Kolonaki may soon be considered as such), and walked to and from the city’s attractions every day. And while it may sound silly to some, my transit experience was perhaps the most adventurous of all I did, taking me to a suburb that not even the quasi-transit authority employee knew about.

Having arrived safely in Halandri, I hopped on a small tour bus (there ended the adventurous portion of my trip!) for a ride to see the Temple of Poseidon on the coast. Roughly an hour away, the time was filled with a local guide disclosing facts about the destination. He took us from the ancient past until modern day, relaying ample facts about the Temple at our destination and its importance as a major monument of the Golden Age. That would be all the time our guide had with us, as he was not allowed to lead us inside the gates surrounding the sacred place. I always prefer this sort of tour, to be honest, so that the precious time visiting the attraction can be spent as I desire with information already in hand.

I chose to take the sunset tour and am perplexed why anyone would do otherwise. The crowds were not large, and even though I have seen plenty of ancient buildings with a stature that easily rivals that Temple, the dusky coastal views and atmosphere were what made this experience stand out.

When the sun finally sunk below the horizon, the dozens of people remaining clapped and hooted in approval. Seconds later, that rapturous moment ended as the gate attendant bluntly yelled at us all to get the hell out. (Well, maybe not in those exact words, but the tone was unmistakable.) I boarded the bus and headed back into Athens, nodding off as the darkness of the day deepened.

The Mighty Acropolis

The city wasn’t always named after the goddess. In the ancient world, King Cecrops, the first royal leader, wanted to give the city a patron god or goddess. According to legend, Athena presented the city with an olive tree; such a practical gift bested Poseidon’s offering of a river of seawater. And thus Athena was named the patroness, and the city henceforth bore her name. Later, the Parthenon, that most famous building towering over the city on a rocky outcrop near its center, would be built in her honour.

Visiting the Parthenon and the other buildings that make up the Acropolis is the single biggest attraction in the city, and rightly so. It’s an unmistakable treasure of dozens of centuries past, standing as a testament to a powerful civilization, and offers a perspective over the area like none other. With over a week stretched out in front of me, I waited until the best possible time to visit, favouring the latter half of the day when most other tourists were already on their way out. Hordes of people still swarmed the site but quiet, shady corners were still available to just sit and admire.

I eat, therefore I know

Did you know that the frappé was invented in Greece? I didn’t until I arrived, but happily gained insight into Greek culture by enjoying it (or a Freddo Cappuccino) every single afternoon. Greek coffee culture is something to be admired.

As is their cuisine, which of course is of no surprise to anyone. And even though Pete is the esteemed chef of the Heck household, I could not pass up the opportunity to learn my favourite dishes and take home recipes that have become my most beloved souvenir. Pete’s rampant enthusiasm for cooking paired with our travels have allowed us to relive fantastic memories right in our kitchen, but after just one morning with The Greek Kitchen, I have henceforth declared this cuisine to be my domain and he’s not allowed to attempt it.

It started with a tour to several markets in the area, something that had been on my to-do list since I arrived in Athens, but always better done with a local who knows her way around. From a cheese shop to rows of meat and fresh veggies, I learned of what raw ingredients are most precious to Greek fare and how to choose them.

Back in the kitchen, we (myself and one other participant from Singapore) set to work. We chopped spinach and garlic; shredded carrots and cucumber. We rolled vine leaves, unrolled sheets of phyllo pastry, squeezed lemons and scooped roasted eggplants. We sipped generous offers of local wines as we cooked up a storm and finally sat down to an epic feast that I still salivate about today.

It was such a large array of food that I had enough to feed myself that night and again the next day. I always knew that I liked Greek cuisine, but this experience firmly moved it into the category of love.

When Pete returned from his Greek island tour after many days away, he did not find a mopey wife craving all of his attention. He found me to be a little more inspired, and a little more empowered and brave. (And maybe just a little bit plumper from all that food and all those frappés.)

I give Athens full credit/blame for all of it, and most especially for the wee turning point that happened within.

how to do it

I found this cozy apartment in Kolonaki that perfectly suited my needs. It got a wee bit noisy on weekend nights (being over a bar), but was otherwise very comfortable and within walking distance to just about everything, including a transit station if anything else was too far. The patio is especially large and was very well used by me!

We landed in the middle of Umbria by default. With two weeks to spare in Italy we cast a wide net – the small, historic town of Spello won out as being one of the only places where we could find an apartment to meet our basic needs. What we didn’t know at the time of booking was how truly captivated we would be. Umbria alone stands as a true testament to the diversity of Italy and even though we’ve now spent several months in the country on several different visits, we come away each time knowing there is still so much left to see and do. Each visit encourages us to return and dig deeper.

Umbria does not get near the attention its neighbour Tuscany does. It hangs in the shadow of tourist magnets Florence and Pisa. Its most popular town of Assisi can get overrun with day-trippers, but few linger to really explore. That fact, for these travellers, is part of Umbria’s infinite draw. And our two weeks there saw us road-trippin’ to far corners of it and even a little beyond, to bring you a photographic tour of the beauty in this region.

spello

It may lack the spiritual significance of nearby Assisi, but anyone looking to share a slice with locals and enjoy an undisturbed photo shoot in a medieval hill town will adore Spello. Most attractions are strung along the main street inside the walls, but the best part is exploring the tidy streets surrounding.

assisi

Millions of visitors descend on Assisi each year, drawn by the story of its most famous resident: St Francis. The town has two medieval castles, scores of tourist services to cater to the millions, and of course the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi anchors the historic center at the north end. Italian will not be the first language you hear, but it is a great place to watch nationalities gather and to even help a group of priests from India take a selfie from one of the many vantage points (yep, that happened).

spoleto

A rebuilt Roman theatre, a fortress, a “bloody bridge” named so after the persecution of Christians nearby, and a stunning 13th-century aqueduct that spans a deep gorge and offers sprawling views of the valleys beyond are all offered in Spoleto. Our visit there was one of more memorable trips in the region – but not for a pleasant reason. We spent most of the drive there arguing over who was responsible for our missing the best light of the day for photographs. It is most spectacular at sunset, but take it from BOTH of us, arrive a good hour or two before to avoid the lengthy shadows that fall across the aqueduct.

todi

On our inevitable return to Umbria, we may consider a stay here if not back in Spello. Another adorable hilled town, it towers high above and offers the best views in the area. It’s a real wonder how we were able to waltz through the historic centre almost entirely alone.

santa maria degli angeli

You can see it for miles, the rise of a massive church that towers in the valley below Assisi. The town itself isn’t the main draw, it lacks the quaint charm of its elevated neighbours, but the church is the reason to go. Because it is not just a massive Basilica by the same name, it is a massive Basilica that encloses a tiny church inside that dates centuries earlier.

castelluccio

Much, much more to share from the drive to this tiny town through what is known as the “Piano Grande” . It is hands down the most scenic spot we’ve been to in Italy.

civita di bagnoregio

Okay, so this isn’t technically Umbria. It’s just over the provincial border into Viterbo, but it’s so close that it would be a shame to miss it. As a feature in an episode of the Amazing Race, it had been at the top of Pete’s to-photograph-list for awhile, and so it became a memorable excursion to celebrate his birthday.

Thanks to an earthquake in the 17th century, the town has since eroded to become an island, and the population has dwindled down to as low as 6 residents in the last century. It now has a vibrant tourism economy, but is still known as “the town that is dying” and is considered an endangered site.

We also missed a few other notable spots: the capital city of Perugia, the man-made Marmore waterfalls, Orvieto and more. But as it goes for these travelers, our allotted time is never enough. So instead we leave new destinations for our return.