Category: Canada

We flew into Whitehorse later than scheduled, landing on the cliffside strip just after midnight. The small airport was busy with arrivals but we were able to retrieve our luggage and get out quickly. The drive to the airport hotel was short and there was little to be seen in the darkness, but at once I commented on the one thing that drew me to the scene immediately.

Trees. And plenty of them. Given the bareness of the landscape we now live on in southern Alberta, being surrounded by evergreens always provides comfort and brings me back to the perspective of my youth. It makes a place immediately liveable to me. I didn’t know it at the time, especially given the haze of late-night travel, but that concept would pop up repeatedly during our five day visit to this largest capital city in northern Canada.

During a dog fashion show, soon to be followed by a dog-howling contest, we met Jon. He was a burly figure with a long white beard, muscular stature, and full leather bush hat. Seemingly out of character, Jon held a small, New Guinea Singing dog in his arms, waiting to give him a chance to perform. While we jointly applauded the passing doggies dressed up as a lobster and Batman and a ballerina, Pete struck up a conversation with him.

Jon was from Texas but ended up in the Yukon via Alaska. A thru-and-thru outdoorsman, he met his female match there and followed her across the border. The two of them would escape into the wilderness for months at a time, surviving solely off of the land and each other. When Pete and I expressed our appreciation and admiration for such a lifestyle, he didn’t hesitate to offer up an extended stay, sharing his email and phone number immediately.

Would you ever consider living anywhere else? I tried to ask, but before I finished my question Jon’s head shook from side to side and was followed by an emphatic no. It was clear, for this adventurous man who lived thousands of miles away from the land of his birth, he had found his home.

It was clear, that thousands of miles away from the land of his birth, Jon had found his home.

We met Patrick on our last full day as he guided us via snowmobile from one frozen lake to another, amid frosted trees and on a barely groomed path. He patiently assisted Pete and I as we got stuck in the same spot on the outward journey and the return, but to us, at that moment, Patrick had a seemingly perfect job. The sky was a crisp blue with few scattered clouds, the day was unseasonably warm, and our small group of trip participants were all friendly and eager to enjoy the day. He led us to a spot on Caribou Lake prepared for our arrival, complete with a fire pit and patch of ice surrounded by hockey sticks. After Pete helped Patrick clear the latest drifts of snow, we all enjoyed an impromptu game of pick-up.

After the game, the crowd dispersed to explore other corners of the lake. Patrick and I sat around the fire with our feet resting on its edge and our boots removed; the warmth of the flames evaporated the moisture built up in our socks. The conversation quickly turned to his life near Whitehorse, and what brought him there from southern France.

At a young age, Patrick read a book about the vast wilderness of the Yukon that prompted his obsession with the territory. He visited many years later, several times, and knew that it was indeed home. He once returned with the sole purpose of disappearing into the hinterland for 3 months (his then-girlfriend came with him at the start, sure that she was paying witness to “the place he was going to die at”). He survived that trip, obviously, but was forever-more married to the land.

Patrick now lived there with his wife and 5 year old daughter. Their newly built house was days from being finished. He relayed all the details that made this ideal for him: the small and close-knit community, the fact that Whitehorse quite remarkably had any big city amenities his family could ever need, and of course the vast swaths of nature that was theirs to play in daily. Asked if he would ever consider living elsewhere, his answer was as quick and adamant as Jon’s had been.

Never.

Chris had clearly consumed a few drinks prior to our meeting, but to be fair, he was not alone. Pete and I estimated to be part of a small handful of people who were not specifically well-lubed to enjoy the evening.

In an expansive and warmed tent the seats were packed and all eyes were fixated on the stage at the far end. What we were witnessing was the final test for candidates of the Sourdough Sam contest, one of the pinnacle events for the Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous Festival. Throughout the prior weeks, those who answered the call as “smooth talking, good timing, high stepping primo Yukon males” were put through rigorous and public analysis on a variety of tasks. On that night, when a final Sam would be knighted, the contestants would show their skills of strutting in dresses and bathing suits. The event was complimented with can-can dancers (in snowshoes no less) and several other acts. It appeared the whole community was in attendance. And it was, simply stated, highly entertaining.

Chris sat just behind us and was clearly intrigued with Pete’s large camera. He was young, not far out of high school, and was curious as to what brought us there and caused us to feverishly record the evening’s events. We told a brief version of our story, but quickly began to gush about how much we were enjoying our visit. We told of the many people we had met, and the repeated strong affirmations we had received about each resident’s ongoing desire to live there. How it appeared a challenging landscape and climate that may not appeal to everyone, but that there was clearly an undeniable magic that kept people in the Yukon.

Chris gushed too (I’m not sure I’ve ever heard the use of the word awesome so much in one conversation), but also admitted that he wanted to leave. It is awesome here, he said, but he wanted to get out and travel.

Growing up in a far northern town myself, I understood the draw away to see. Perhaps more than most people. But from the brief research we had done on this trip, I expected that he would return.

Go and see the world, I said, it will make you appreciate what you have here even more.

how to do it

The primary reason for our visit to the Yukon was to attend events related to the Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous Festival. We barely graced it (it is a HUGE event), but from what we did see, we know we want to see more. Held every February, it is meant to celebrate an emergence from winter, and is extremely popular among locals and tourists alike. As we were told, it is a great slice of Yukon culture!

There will be more to come on how to do winter in the Yukon (properly!), but one way for sure is to get out on a snowmobile. This very fun trip to Caribou Lake was arranged by Inn on the Lake, where we spent one night. It is about a half hour drive from Whitehorse, and was a charming boutique lodge that included intimate family-style dinners and an array of tours.

She approached very gingerly as I sat on the edge of my seat.

I was ready to pounce and shower love in the form of pets, smooches and treats, but knew any such sudden movement would scare her off completely.

Kaya came close enough to sniff my arm.

She softly licked my glove and then retreated.

That was as close as she would allow me. As a medium-content wolfdog, Kaya has no motivation to please humans, as dogs normally do.

The wolf in her is shy and protective, anxious and very careful.

The higher the wolf-content, the further away the wolfdogs stayed. Zeus, Kuna and Nova kept their distance, coming close enough only so that we could toss the treats they were so eager to snack on.

Then they would withdraw behind a tree, a building, back to the farthest corner of their fenced enclosure.

Where Wild Meets Wonder

You don’t often get to look a wolfdog in the eye — at least not without it being a National Geographic moment. But at the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary, just outside of Cochrane, Alberta, you can do exactly that in a way that’s safe, educational, and surprisingly moving.

This isn’t a zoo and it’s definitely not a petting farm. It’s a refuge for wolfdogs that can’t live in the wild and don’t quite fit into a regular household. The result? An experience that’s equal parts conservation, education, and “wow, their eyes really are that intense.”

About The Wolfdogs

It’s their elusiveness that brought them to the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary, under the care of their keeper, Georgina.

Their beauty entices the unknowing pet owner – wanting the looks of a wolf with the behaviour of a dog – backyard breeders rise to meet the demand. Soon, disappointment for the owners sets in when that fantasy is not realized, and the wolfdogs are often abandoned.

Here, with an owner that understands their behaviour, they are cared for and safe.When no one else is around, they silently compete for Georgina’s attention. Kuna, the dominant high-content female, sleeps with Georgina at night, establishing dominance over the pack because as the purveyor of sustenance, Georgina is obviously valuable to them all.

Zeus is the alpha-male of the group, intimidating with his jet black fur and piercing hazel eyes. Any new wolfdog to the pack has to win Zeus over first which can take anywhere from one to three months. “And we really hope any new wolfdog is submissive, it makes it much easier,” Georgina said with a laugh.

Goals of the Sanctuary

The long-term hope, of course, is to not have the need for such a sanctuary. But currently there is more demand then they can handle – the sanctuary will soon be moving to a space with eight massive enclosures.

Calls for rescue have unfortunately been turned down, but where possible, low-content wolfdogs are placed with new owners. 45 such placements have occurred in the past two and a half years.

For others, Zeus, Kuna and Nova, this is likely their home forever. They will continue to shyly take treats from strangers and accept love from their one-and-only Georgina.

And in the meantime, hopefully teach us humans that wolfdogs are not dogs, and not the pet that one would expect.

Visiting the Sanctuary

The Sanctuary, located just outside of Canmore, Alberta, also has a secondary location in Cranbrook, British Columbia. Contact the Sanctuary directly to arrange a visit.

Things to Do at the Sanctuary

1.The Sanctuary Walk

Take a self-guided stroll past enclosures to observe wolfdogs at your own pace. You’ll learn their backstories and probably hear some spine-tingling howls.

2.Intro Tour

A guided tour where you’ll step inside a wolfdog enclosure (with staff, of course). You’ll get closer than you’d expect and walk away with a newfound respect for their behaviour and body language.

3.Interactive Tour

The most immersive experience. This one includes feeding opportunities and the chance for wolfdogs to approach you on their terms. Bring your camera—this is the money shot moment.

4.Learn About Wolves in the Wild

Displays and talks connect the dots between the sanctuary’s wolfdogs and their wild cousins. It’s a sobering reminder of how conservation and education go hand in hand.

Tips for Visiting

• Book ahead: Tours fill quickly, especially weekends and holidays.
• Dress smart: Closed-toe shoes are required, and layers help in Alberta’s unpredictable weather.
• Stay calm: Wolfdogs pick up on human energy. No shrieking, running, or attempting to pet them like Fido at home.
• Photography: Yes, but no flash. Wolfdogs don’t love paparazzi.
• Weather check: Tours run rain, shine, or snow, so pack accordingly.
• Children: Check age restrictions before booking—some tours aren’t suitable for little ones.

How to Get There

The sanctuary is located about an hour’s drive from Calgary, making it an easy day trip if you’re city-based. Renting a car is the simplest option, as public transport doesn’t reach the site.

Where We Stayed

We breathed a massive sigh of relief when we walked into the Solara Resort & Spa in Canmore.

We were so in love with our apartment that we curled up on the sublime leather couches in front of the fireplace and wiled an entire evening away doing nothing but enjoying the coziness.

We love having the comfort of a suite every once in awhile along our journey, and Solara was an incredible pleasure to stay in.

Also, you just can’t beat those mountain views.

Final Thoughts

A visit to the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary is one of those rare travel experiences that’s equal parts thrilling and humbling.

You’ll leave with better photos, a better understanding of wolf behaviour, and a lingering sense that maybe humans don’t have it all figured out.

If your Alberta trip needs a break from mountains and museums, this is a stop that delivers wild wonder—without you needing to pack bear spray.

I stood alone in the water a good distance downstream from the others. I sturdied myself on a flat rock while water swirled around the top of my thighs.It had been many months since I had been left on my own by any measure. My family was constantly hovering, concerned for my health and abilities, making sure that I was capable of any task before me. With any slight waiver they would take over and do it all for me. I knew that at that moment, some fifty meters away, Pete was likely watching my moves intently, nervous at my solitude in the middle of the grand Miramichi River.

Yes, my legs were a little more wobbly than they were this time last year, but I held strong. I felt strong.

I raised my fly fishing rod and made my next cast in one smooth movement: I whipped the rod back, held it at the top and whispered Miramichi to count my hold, and then cast forward softly. The fly landed just left of my intended target of rippling water. It gently bobbed downstream until it was due to be pulled out and cast again.

I came up empty but my technique had been near-perfect, and thus it was a giant win by my estimation. Fly fishing had a grace to it that I never expected, nor one that I naturally had.

On cue, a baldheaded eagle took flight from the river’s edge and continued along its shoreline.

Atlantic salmon start to make their way up the mighty Miramichi in mid-June, fighting the currents to return to their natal stream to spawn. The great rush that happens early in the season had already passed, but a few still jumped near us. Jeremy was able to spot them underwater with his polarized glasses and pointed them out. I nodded in agreement, although I was pretty sure I saw nothing but sun flashes on the water.We were fishing at the halfway mark of the salmon’s journey up the Miramichi, about 50 km inland from the city of the same name. Jeremy, one of our guides from the Country Haven Lodge, started out with Sherry and I in the water while Pete sat with Tyler in the boat nearby. Sherry had done this before, but it was a first time for both me and Pete. I’ve previously cast off of shores and boats, and even dropped hooks through holes in ice, but this was the first fly fishing that I had ever attempted. It was, as I expected, much harder than it looks.

Jeremy casted with ease, his fishing line gracefully soared through the air with full extension each time. His movements were smooth and deliberate, his hooks landed on the water’s surface without drama. With the water sparkling all around him in the bright sun, Jeremy made it look effortless and romantic. Tyler told me later that Jeremy was so precise that he once purposely snatched a hat right off his head from mid-stream.

In coaching me, Jeremy repeated the few words that I needed to run through my head in the process: whip back, hold for “Miramichi”, soft release, arms at a 45 degree angle.

“And I’m apparently not going to listen to anything you say,” I said seconds later as the fly ended up just a handful of feet in front of me due to my ignorance of the third point. Both Pete and I suffered the same impulse having played baseball in our youth: what should have been a gentle extension of our arms toward the target often ended up in a forceful whip that dropped far short.

Hundreds of casts later, we were each starting to get in the groove of it. The frequency of our faultless casts increased, as did the praise from our guides. And so we kept chasing that satisfaction of the perfect cast, while trying different spots on the river for fish, and each of us tested our luck inside of the boat and out.

Our group came up empty save for two little river chubs caught by Sherry; the salmon were visible but not tempted by our flies. Our guides seemed nervous that we would be disappointed by our lack of catch, but they had underestimated the joy we would have just by being there.

Those hours were the first I had spent in many months doing something that resembled an athletic activity. Those new skills were the first that I had acquired in as long a time. Fly fishing is not a demanding task but it proved a wholly nourishing one. I now understood that completely, and perhaps in a way that few others could.

Over two days our group took to the river several times; I saved my strength and fished only twice, but on one morning I coaxed the others into putting down rods and picking up paddles.There was only one solo kayak and I called for it immediately – subtly demanded it, really – Sherry and Pete seemed not to mind and paired up in the canoe. For as much as the river had already buoyed my spirits and confidence in myself with the several hours I spent wading in it for fish, I now was eager to test myself further. I have kayaked hundreds of kilometres in my lifetime, but not for over a year, and most certainly not since my health and life were challenged. I dearly missed being on the water.

It was fifteen kilometres from our departure point back to the Lodge but there was little to severely test our skills given the shallowness of the water in the later season. A couple of small sets of rapids had us navigating rocks and almost getting stuck, but I took the lead and guided us all through safely.

I was eager for more but knew I was already busting the limits of my weary body. I was tired, but I barely stopped paddling. My arms hurt, but I insisted on continuously moving.

For a few moments midway I did force a pause while Pete and Sherry propelled ahead. I feigned interest in taking photos but really just wanted a few moments alone. My emotions, unexpectedly, were taking over.

The culmination of the scene before me – the reflective glass of the river cut up only by our movement, the lushness of the river banks, the freshness of the air I breathed in deep – every element of that perfect morning served to overwhelm me. There was little I could do to avoid it; I rested my paddle across my lap and just sat and cried. They were not tears from fatigue or weariness, but out of pure joy and pride at myself.

In the past there have been many moments that I have spent on or in a river, but none seemed nearly as significant. These few were pivotal to me, for in those brief solo minutes I had been given a gift by the Miramichi.

I finally felt like I was beginning to get my life back.

how to do it

There is one very good reason why the Country Haven Lodge and Cottages has nary a blemish on its five star recommendation via online reviews: it deserves every ounce of praise and more. From the excellent guides, to the sublimely comfortable cottages, the superb home cooked meals, the picture-perfect location, and the outstanding overall service – this is one place that is perfectly memorable for all the right reasons. We immediately felt like family, and are eager to return and relive our exceptional experience.

New Brunswick is doesn’t get the attention it deserves. It’s a wonder that it is not one of the first provinces that comes to mind when people talk about touring eastern Canada. It offers adventure, history, culture, incredible scenery, hospitality, culinary delights, and much, much more. And hey, guess what? That’s exactly the kind of place that attracts us.

New Brunswick is like the underdog, the shy girl at the party, the indie rock band that only the cool kids are into. That alone wooed us in the door and why we keep coming back. And now that we live in Nova Scotia, it’s even easier for us to hop over and explore this Atlantic gem!

We’ve experienced so much in our number of visits to this Atlantic province. We’ve visited countless charming coastal towns that are steeped in history and loved house boating and flyfishing on some of the most popular New Brunswick rivers. We cherished the many moments immersing ourselves in Acadian culture and learning about the history along the Acadian shores. We’ve watched whales leap from the water and felt the ocean spray as they did so. We’ve hiked, tasted fantastic food and drink, kayaked, and so, so much more.

It’s a special place for us, and below we’ve highlighted some of the best things to do in New Brunswick.

The Best Places to See and Things to Do in New Brunswick

Grand Manan

We have much more to say about our week spent on this, one of the 19 islands that belong to New Brunswick. Although Grand Manan is the biggest, it is still relatively tiny overall, but that didn’t stop us from filling our week with an incredible array of activities.

From watching seals play in the calm early morning waters to tackling bush-whacking hikes, we loved our time there immensely. It reminded us a bit of Moloka’i, Hawaii, to be honest – a gorgeous little slice of paradise that we are so surprised isn’t overrun by people wanting a piece of it.

Bouctouche

A single photo online had drawn us to this area, compelling us to see it for ourselves. What we found there made us wish we had allotted an entire day.

Imagine growing up as a child, staring at an empty island in your town, and then as an adult bringing that island to life with books filled with characters based on your Acadian heritage. That is exactly what Antonine Maillet did, and her vision now fills Le Pays de la Sagouine.

Led around by a tour guide and introduced to others on the island who were in full character, we were thoroughly entertained and educated. This attraction also offers an array of festivals and musical performances every night during the summer that we wish we had allotted time for.

Nearby is also a long curvy boardwalk raised over windswept dunes at the Irving Eco-Centre. With soft sand on one side and wavy emerald grass on the other, it’s worth every step of the stroll.

Ballet By the Ocean

In the summer months, not far from Bouctouche and right near the water, the Atlantic Ballet performs in the midst of a nature reserve. Balley By the Ocean was borne out of the early, heavily restricted COVID days. This dance troupe became the only one in North America (and maybe the world) to be able to entertain during the pandemic.

Now, the performance is accompanied by a three-course meal prepared by Chef Jordan Holden of Atelier Tony (in Moncton) using the highest-quality local ingredients. Guests were able to bring their own wine, and a local winery was on location, giving away samples. This experience in such a stunning setting is unique and exceptionally special.

Akadi Lumina

Another attraction near Bouctouche, Akadi Lumina opened in the summer of 2024 to great acclaim. It’s one thing to learn about the Acadian people and their stories of resilience and perseverance, but it’s another thing to actually feel it. Via Akadi Lumina, the Acadian story is told via light, poetry, video projection, and original music. It’s not a place to learn facts but instead, a place to understand emotions.

Akadi Lumina is a 1.5 km forest walk taken at night. The path is illuminated the whole way, with stops punctuated by a variety of displays. We felt anguish at being separated, joy at gathering together again, and deeply felt how Acadian stories have echoed through the generations. At times, the experience was a bit disorienting but always vibrant and inspiring.

It is now a permanent New Brunswick attraction, open when the weather is warm.

Saint John

We arrived under a thick blanket of fog and left with the same – it is no wonder that the fog horn was invented in this city. But no matter, the city offers so much in and outside of these pea soup hours.

When in the fog: We embraced the concept of “fog”tography and enjoyed capturing the moody atmosphere. We stayed indoors for incredible meals at the Saint John Ale House and East Coast Bistro. A little fog and rain also weren’t going to stop us from enjoying our favourite activity – kayaking – where we were led through still waters to view fossils on nearby banks.

When out of the fog: We took in performances at the Buskers on the Bay festival and watched water actually flow backwards on the Saint John River.

Hopewell Rocks

The tides rage onto the coast of New Brunswick as quickly as they disperse. With every passing minute of the day, the coastal landscape transforms.

There is no other land on the planet, other than neighbouring provinces, that exists next to the likes of the Bay of Fundy. The bay narrows and rises, forcing a lot of water into not a lot of space, which can cause extreme rises up to 53 feet twice in a day.

The forceful sea has created a series of oddly shaped rocks on the southeast shore of New Brunswick, known famously as the Hopewell Rocks. By low tide, we were able to walk among them, and we arrived at first crack of dawn to catch the sun rays breaking across their awkward edges. And in the hours just before the highest tide we boarded kayaks to paddle among them. The water bounced us thoroughly but not so much that we couldn’t enjoy the spectacle we were in.

St. Martins Sea Caves

These are many spots whose character has been shaped by the Bay of Fundy, and these two are worth at least a full day of exploring. St Martins, already a picturesque little town on its own, offers sea caves that are inaccessible at high tide but can be walked around in during low. The water is crystal-clear, and the cliffs are a deep red, making this a must-stop to watch as the area changes with the passing hours.

Fundy Trail Parkway

Nearby begins the 19km Fundy Trail Parkway which can be tackled in any number of ways – vehicle, bike, or your own two feet. The drive is spectacular, but the real fun is strapping on a pair of hiking shoes and taking a walk. There is a series of trails that took us up and down the coast to waterfalls and overviews.

At the end is the stunning Long Beach, which was only made accessible to visitors in 2016. We had some sketchy weather that pushed us around at some points, but this drive was easily still a top highlight for us.

Kouchibouguac National Park

Please don’t ever ask me to pronounce it, but please take me there again. More dunes, more beaches, more hiking. We spent most of our time wandering Kelly’s Beach, which is accessed by another curvy boardwalk, and with the tide out, we poked around extensively on the ocean floor.

Visit Fredericton

The charm of Fredericton lies in its harmonious blend of history, nature, and urban vibrancy. It’s the capital of New Brunswick and boasts a walkable downtown filled with Victorian architecture and a rich Loyalist history, especially visible in the Historic Garrison District

The city’s unique character is defined by the Saint John River that flows through its heart, with a vast network of scenic trails and the iconic Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge connecting both sides. We loved strolling and cycling along the waterfront, and visiting the famous Farmers Market. The riverside setting complements a thriving arts and culture scene, lively markets, and a burgeoning reputation as the “Craft Brewing Capital of Atlantic Canada,” offering a relaxed yet engaging atmosphere.

Houseboating in New Brunswick

Never would New Brunswick cross our minds as a houseboat destination. Growing up in the West, renting a houseboat was done on the Okanagan in British Columbia. Boy, oh boy, were we wrong. This was some of the best house boating we’ve ever done. We traded turns as captian as we toured up and down Mactaquac Lake, a section of the Saint John River.

It’s a perfect watery vacation/adventure because it’s as simple as rolling up with the groceries you need for a few days. They provided towels and the like (linens were rented), and it was all very comfortable. Their crew gave us thorough but easy instructions on how to handle the boat, and then we set off for our adventure on the water.

Our Thoughts About our First Trip to New Brunswick

When we set our sights on our home turf for the summer of 2015, the East Coast was our first desire. We had previously spent some limited time in the region – mostly via trips with our old jobs – but didn’t really know much about this chunk of Canada that sits over 4,000 km away from where we grew up.

It’s technically part of this big land mass we call home, but it’s almost completely unfamiliar. It is not that we are travellers who care about ticking places off a list, but Atlantic Canada does include the last two provinces we have yet to visit. New Brunswick was one of them. And with two weeks to explore, we thought we could do it all. We did the best we could to embrace all aspects of our ninth province: we tasted many of its craft brews (second most per capita in Canada), bounced around on several kayaks (including in the highest tides in the world), watched water flow backwards (for reals), and even saw the world’s largest lobster.

The rest, as they say, was up to New Brunswick. And beyond all the tasty and quirky goodness it showed us, the province had plenty of what we admire most: drop-dead gorgeous scenery.

Tours in New Brunswick

There are so many things to do in New Brunswick. Whether you are craving adventure, delicious food, learning about the culture and history or witnessing the highest tides in the world there is surely something for everyone. Here are a few tours we recommend:

Hopewell Rocks Admission

Reserve your admission to walk on the sea floor and marvel at the Hopewell Rocks that have been shaped by the Bay of Fundy Tides.

Go Fundy Tours

This half-day tour starts in Saint John, New Brunswick. Here you will board a bus and enjoy a coastal drive and walking tour to the village of St. Martins and along the Fundy Trail Parkway. Note that this tour involves a moderate amount of walking.

Mi’kamq Heritage Path Tour

This tour will take you on an immersive journey through vibrant Mi’kmaq culture. On this 2 hour tour you will enter the community teepee for a soul-cleansing smudging ceremony, follow the serene Heritage Path, while discovering ancient wisdom and nature’s remedies. Visitors will leave with a profound connection to their teachings and customs.

From Sap to Syrup

Learn everything there is know about maple syrup. This tour will show you how the farm works and how they get the syrup from the maple trees. Included as well are tasty treats afterward to sample the delicious golden syrup.

Hike & Lunch with Llamas

This is probably one of the most unique experiences in New Brunswick. You will visit a llama farm where you will get to have a leisurely walk through the fields where the llamas roam. You’ll also have lunch with the llamas and goats wandering about.

Prince Edward Island might be Canada’s smallest province, but when it comes to beaches, it punches way above its weight.

Think soft red or white sand, warm Gulf of St. Lawrence waters, and coastal views that practically demand you stop and stare. Whether you’re a beach bum, a sandcastle engineer, or just someone who likes a salty breeze with your book, PEI’s shoreline has a spot with your name on it.

Our favourite moments in Prince Edward Island can be traced back to one afternoon.

We stopped at Chelton Beach at low tide. It’s a provincial park and it was a weekend so it was somewhat busy, but not overwhelmingly so. In all honesty we had stopped just to use the bathroom, but as we approached the beachside building, we were taken by the scene that was before us.

We descended the stairs onto the beach and walked out as far as we could, dragging our feet along the soft red sand and splashing in the lukewarm puddles left behind in the tide’s retreat. I waded through knee deep water to get to a sandbar all my own. It was no bigger than the room I sit in now to write this, but the sand was soft, free of other footprints, and it was mine. I was jealous of the lady on the sandbar over from me for her beach chair and portable cooler; she had clearly settled in for the day. So it goes, even on sandbars, that we tend to covet what our neighbours have, I suppose.

I rejoined Pete and we began to walk the length of the beach to the east. Around a small jut of rocks was a smaller patch of red sand that was a little more under water. We had planned to continue our walk but stopped to poke around in the puddles when we noticed movement. Snails and small fish were darting back and forth in their own little miniature ocean.

“Lobsters! There are baby lobsters in here!” When I reflect on this moment now, I shudder at the thought of my high-pitched squeal. I am pretty sure I sounded like a very excitable tween in my reaction to these tiny and almost translucent creatures that I had never seen before.

Pete and I both grabbed cameras and started following them around, darting in different directions all over the beach. Unsuccessfully, I might add, because damn, those little lobsters are fast. It didn’t stop us from looking like fools as we tried, though.

The next day we had lunch with someone who grew up on the island. She said that when recently asked by a tourist about how to capture the essence of PEI, she instructed them to walk along the beach. Preferably alone, to soak in the air, the atmosphere, the environment.

Hey, we just did that. No wonder those moments caused us to chase beaches all over that tiny island. And, what we found was an array of special spots that suited us for a variety of occasions and moods.

Our Favourite PEI Beaches

Greenwich Beach

Greenwich Beach was our very first stop; we were wooed by the promised scenic jaunt to reach it. It’s a two-kilometre easy walk, and not only is the beach itself worthy, but the walk-in is remarkable.

On a boardwalk over a marsh, the still water was a dream to photograph, and the bird life in the area was entertaining to see and hear. The walk ends with a quick rise over dunes and then opens up to a beautiful stretch of soft white and red sand.

Basin Head Beach

This popular spot is also known as the “Singing Sands” beach for the sound it makes when you drag your feet in the sand. Except, duh, we didn’t understand that part until after we visited. No matter, it was still memorable for our daybreak stroll alone along the shore. The blank and foggy sky made the red cliffs and green moss absolutely pop, so it was a lot of fun to photograph.

Augustine Cove

During our second week on PEI we spent our nights perched here, on the edge of Augustine Cove. It was the most perfect place for us. A quick walk down our stairway during low tide had us exploring on the red sand and hunting for clams. There was always an array of puddles – perfect for wading in to cool off or just feel the squish sand beneath our toes.

We barely saw anyone else on there during our week. It’s not exactly a lounging beach as it is mostly too wet, or perhaps it is just not on tourist’s radar. Yet we loved it. A perfect place to stroll and explore every detail up close.

West Point

We pulled up to this (almost) westernmost point of the island, pulled out our beach towels, and settled in for a sunset. That’s what this beach is about.

Out of all the PEI beaches, this was definitely one of our favourites. The laid back chill that we felt here was why we spent many hours under the sun and watching it go down.

Argyle Shores

This favourite spot of ours technically isn’t in Argyle Provincial Park, but instead a bit east of it. Like a lot of secluded PEI beaches on the island we found this one by curiously following a dirt road that lead down to the shore. Sometimes it was a bust, but other times we found gems like this.

Thundercove Beach

The tea cup was what we came for. Upon arrival to Thundercove Beach it was a bit of a walk, but with the right time considering tides and light, we were rewarded with a stunning view of this distinctive red rock.

There were many more, of course, as the entire island is practically encircled in soft beaches that are ripe for exploration. And that, for us, was the thrust of PEI’s appeal – the pleasure of tossing away maps and finding them for our own.

**Update** Sadly the teacup is no longer there as it was destroyed by Hurricane Fiona. It’s still a gorgeous spot to explore.

Things to Do Beyond the Beach

Activities

• Kayaking & Paddleboarding: Calm bays and inlets make PEI a paddler’s dream.
• Cycling the Confederation Trail: Work off those lobster rolls on this scenic island-spanning route.
• Lighthouses, Lots of Them: Over 60 still stand—great for photo-hopping.

Where to Eat

• Richard’s Seafood (Brackley): Fish and chips worth waiting in line for.
• The Blue Mussel Café (North Rustico): Lobster rolls, mussels, and views.
• Cows Ice Cream (everywhere): Because you can’t do PEI without at least one scoop.

Fishing on PEI

Whether it’s deep-sea tuna or a family mackerel trip, PEI is world-famous for its fishing culture. Charter boats leave from North Rustico, Souris, and several other harbours—expect salty air, plenty of laughs, and maybe dinner hooked straight from the sea.

Most Scenic Spots on PEI

• Greenwich Dunes Trail: A boardwalk that feels like walking into a painting.
• Cape Tryon Lighthouse: One of the most photographed lighthouses on the island.
• French River Lookout: A sweeping view of fishing boats, rolling hills, and patchwork farmland.

Where to Stay in PEI

Finding your own PEI beaches starts with a cottage stay near the water, and our week in the Watermelon Wine Cottage gave us exactly what we were looking for. Quiet, comfortable, and with a red beach just a few steps away, this was one place we truly wanted to change the locks on and never leave.

Budget: Cavendish Breeze Inn – Cozy, affordable, and close to Cavendish Beach.

Mid-Range: The Holman Grand Hotel (Charlottetown) – Central, modern, and walkable to the harbour.

Luxury: Dalvay by the Sea – A historic inn straight out of a storybook, overlooking dunes and sea.

Final Thoughts

PEI beaches aren’t just places to swim—they’re places to slow down. You’ll find squeaky sands, gentle dunes, friendly locals, and just enough lobster shacks to make sure you never go hungry.

Whether you stay for a week or just a salty afternoon, you’ll see why the island’s shores keep people coming back year after year.

This was not our first time in Thunder Bay, having stayed a few years ago for a few days while driving across Canada. That stay was due to our move to Nova Scotia, and our focus was single-minded: get ourselves (and our cat!) there quickly and safely. We didn’t leave much time for exploring.

What we did see of Thunder Bay at the time told us one thing: We need to return. As hardcore lovers of nature, we knew that this city would agree with us. Sitting on the shores of Lake Superior and surrounded by extraordinary landscapes at every turn, it’s built for adventurers. And while we knew we’d be wowed at every step into the wilderness, we were eager to see what the city itself is about, too.

With two very full days, we saw and learned a lot. If you’re planning your own excursion to Thunder Bay (as you should be!), we hope this guide will give you the same wonderful experiences we had.

About Thunder Bay

Located in Northwest Ontario, this city on the big shore has only held its name since 1970. Previously, Thunder Bay was known as both Fort William and Port Arthur, cities that date back to the 1800s. The merger of the two began with the combination of ports in 1906, and the full-fledged unification began in the 1950s, taking almost 20 years to complete.

The area has long been an important transportation hub in Canada and is still one of the country’s busiest ports. Industries have come and gone from the city, and remnants of them still dot the shoreline. It’s a city that feels like it’s constantly evolving, but with steadfast attributes. Most notably, it holds a diverse community of kind people who are working to elevate the city to realize its full potential beyond industrial pursuits.

How To Spend Two Days In Thunder Bay

We assume that because you read this blog, you like what we like, and you’re here for our recount of beautiful experiences in nature, good food, and learning about communities via local initiatives. Trust us when we say that you can easily fill more than two days in the city, as there are many more options than what we’ve listed here, but the following list is a good start.

Walk Canada’s Longest Suspension Bridge

We arrived at the empty parking lot at Eagle Canyon Adventures as a fog hung low on the land. We were both immediately excited to have the place almost entirely to ourselves – walking on a 600ft bridge suspended 125ft above a canyon floor is not an experience we wanted to share with many others (whose jostling would spike our height-related fears).

Let alone two suspension bridges. One apparently was not enough, and the smaller bridge serves as a good primer to allay any fears before reaching the second. The path through the area was well thought out and offered beautiful vistas along the way, after walking across the bridges, you can then descend into the canyon to stroll back. All in all, it should take no more than 30 minutes to walk it entirely, but we took our time and even launched the drone to capture our whole experience.

Even when sharing the bridges with a couple of others who arrived after us, we weren’t dissuaded from enjoying ourselves. (Had we reached the max of 20 people as indicated on the warning sign, that might have been a different story!) We crossed the bridges once, then back again, and truly revelled in the experience from every angle.

Don’t Miss Ouimet Canyon

Very near Eagle Canyon is Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park, which is definitely worth the stop. The hike to the viewpoint is a flat, short, and accessible loop, with a platform to showcase the best perspective as the ravine stretches out below.

Dig Out Your Own Sparkly Souvenir at an Amethyst Mine

On this same road trip northeast of the city, a couple of amethyst mines are open for digging. We made a stop at the family-owned and operated Diamond Willow Amethyst Mine, took the loaner pail and trowel, and started searching for my birthstone.

It didn’t take long before Pete unearthed a few worthy of a closer look. We returned to the shop, washed them up, and picked two to take home as souvenirs (for only $5). The friendly owner showed us around the area and relayed his whole process from finding the amethysts to cleaning and assessing their value before putting them on display. If you like sparkly things, the trip to the mine is worth it just to marvel at their “rock garden”, even if you do no digging.

Feel the “Niagara of the North”

Our one excursion on our first visit years ago was to see Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park. It is one of those attractions, however, that we could never tire of seeing.

And this time around, the force of the water was intense; at several spots, we felt the cooling mist on our skin. The Falls, at 40m in height and the second highest in all of Ontario, are a truly impressive sight, and accessible from many angles. Just a few steps from the parking lot is a boardwalk that will take you to a quick viewing platform, and it also wraps around the top of the waterfall to the other side. Visitors can also camp, go hiking, and more. The whole park is well worth more time than we had to explore it.

Get a View From Above at Anemki Wajiw

Thunder Bay has no shortage of stunning viewpoints, and a quick drive up Anemki Wajiw gave us a gorgeous view of the city below. The sacred mountain itself holds significant meaning for the Anishinaabe people (and actually sits on the Fort William First Nation reserve). Translated, its name means “Thunder Mountain”.

Pay Respect at the Terry Fox Monument

Another important spot whose value exceeds its incredible scenery is the Terry Fox Monument and Visitor Centre. Yes, the monument offers magnificent views of Lake Superior, but what it stands for is much more significant.

There are few Canadians who don’t know the impact Terry Fox had on our nation. As an amputee whose leg was lost due to osteosarcoma, he pledged to run across Canada in an effort to raise money for cancer research. He began in St John’s, Newfoundland, and ran a remarkable marathon every day, until his declining health forced him to stop near Thunder Bay. He died less than a year later.

At the time he was forced to stop his run, his efforts had raised $1.7 million for cancer research, and he became a household name. Donations through the winter following amounted to a total of $23 million. His legacy endures to this day, and the annual Terry Fox Run continues to raise money for cancer research, with the grand total now approaching $1 billion.

Explore the Waterfront

The night we landed in Thunder Bay, Pete’s plan was to wander the waterfront and capture it while the city lights sparkled. However, his plans were thwarted by a thunderstorm; lightning streaked the sky, and the accompanying booms spoke of the city’s name.

The next morning, the weather was better, and he was awake at sunrise to go for his morning walk. Just outside our hotel were walking paths leading to parks, wharfs, and along the bay shore. Despite the early hour, the waterfront was active. Numerous people were out for their morning walks, runs, and coffee meetups. A Tai-Chi class was happening in the Taiji park. There was even an open field where a stage was set up for free concerts during the week.

We would both return later to explore again and browse the shops that also dot the waterfront. Along with an ice cream cart and a couple of spots to eat, we could easily see why the Waterfront District is so beloved by locals and visitors alike.

Sail the Harbour

Walking the harbourfront is one thing, exploring it by water is even better, and we were excited to ride the gentle waves with Sail Superior for a couple of hours.

Greg, the owner, took us for a cruise along the waterfront and out to the break wall. Only a true Thunder Bayite could relay the information Greg did as he sailed, enlightening us on his city’s history, pointing out the remnants of industry that still stand on the shoreline, and even advising on where we could take some great photos. The only thing that would have made the cruise better would have been wine and cheese along with the sunset (which Sail Superior does offer on other days)!

Explore Fort William Historical Park

It always truly fascinates us that the European investment in settling Canada was largely because of one thing: fashion.

Namely, because of beaver pelts that could be made into stylish hats. Indigenous Peoples had been living in the area surrounding Thunder Bay for thousands of years prior, but in the early 1800s, Fort William became the center of a vast trading network. Every July, proponents of the North West Company (an early rival of the Hudson’s Bay Company, largely comprised of Scottish merchants and Canadian traders) would meet there for Rendezvous, which can best be described as a large trade fair. This central meeting place would invite trappers from the north and west to trade with merchants arriving from Montreal. As many as two thousand braved the long journey in birchbark canoes to participate annually.

Fort William Historical Park is a replication of this large meeting place. Visitors are able to step back into the early 1800s and be guided through the many buildings that encompassed it, from accommodations for the company’s top men to canoe repair shops to a great dining hall and more. The setting is also quite spectacular, making this a can’t-miss stop.

Try All the Local Brews

Thunder Bay’s craft beer scene is small but mighty; we visited three breweries and each had their own distinct vibe. We loved their creativity when using the area’s fresh ingredients to create some surprisingly nuanced and delicious beers.

Dawson Trail Craft Brewery – Huge taproom, gourmet pizzas and hot dogs, and most importantly plenty of beers on tap. Both of our favourites beers from Thunder Bay came from this brewery. Pete loved the Running Stone Red Ale and mine was the Cucumber Gose! Dawson Trail has a great selection and a laid-back feel.

Sleeping Giant Brewing Company – This woman-owned brewery stands tall in Thunder Bay. Sleeping Giant really leans into the local heritage with brews named after landmarks and a taproom that’s a true community hub. Apart from the huge selection of brews and gorgeous gift shop full of local goodies (and beer), we absolutely loved the shout-out to Mr. Canoehead, their award winning Red Ale. (80s kids…unite! Of course we paid homage to “Four on the Floor” and watched some Mr. Canoehead while drinking a Mr. Canoehead.)

Lakehead Beer Company – Right smack in the middle of downtown is this cool brewery serving up a small selection of beers. What’s cool about this place is that they pour the beers directly from the vessels they were made in, making it as fresh as possible. Pete thought their IPA was crisp, hoppy and delicious. The Detroit-style pizza being served from Subdivision also caught our eye (and stomach). If we didn’t already have dinner reservations, we would have had our own.

Snack on a Persian

The few people who knew we were going to Thunder Bay and were familiar with the city all said the same thing: You HAVE to try a persian from The Persian Man.

There is no Middle Eastern connection to the name or food (like we initially thought). The story goes that their creator, Art Bennet, was making them while talking to a US World War I General named “Pershing”. It was such a memorable meeting for Art that he gave the treat a similar name! Persians have been around for ~80 years and are an institution in the city.

We can’t even explain why they are so good, but they are. They seem to simply be a fluffy donut/cinnamon swirl covered in light berry frosting. Super basic but super delicious, and we were wowed enough to snack on a few during our short stay.

Eat Very Well

Thunder Bay delighted us in many ways, and our dining experiences were no exception. The breakfasts were hearty, our grab-and-go lunch options were plentiful, and we truly savoured top-quality dinners.

Tomlin Restaurant – This top spot did not disappoint. After suffering decision paralysis for many minutes after sitting down, we finally settled on sharing plates that had us each fighting for the last bite. This included the charred broccolini, tomato and strawberry salad, and the beef tartare.

Grotto Trattoria – As the name suggests, it’s all Italian here. We were served gigantic plates of carbs – lasagna and a chicken carbonara-style dish – both of which we enjoyed but neither of which we were able to finish.

Tina’s Breakfast and Lunch and Daytona’s Restaurant – Both of these spots served essential breakfast classics and much-needed fuel for busy days exploring. A special shout-out must be given to the chicken and waffles at Daytona’s!

Uncommon Goods – We bought the last two perogy buns at this bakery inside the Goods & Co Market, and if there had been more, we would have immediately returned to clean them out.

Barkeep Cocktails – Not an eating establishment (besides snacks), but worth noting as a conveniently situated downtown spot to wait out your time to get into any restaurant (as we had to for Tomlin).

Prime Gelato – Take advantage of this new spot to get something sweet after dinner (and lighter fare than most restaurant desserts).

Our Focus on Supporting Women-Owned Businesses

When we drove across Canada and made our first-ever stop in Thunder Bay, we made a specific effort to support women-owned and minority businesses.On our return, we decided to do the same.

It was easy. A quick search via Google Maps, and we found several of the businesses mentioned above (Sleeping Giant Brewing Company, Prime Gelato) were all women-owned. We also stopped at a number of others including Goods and Co, a collective space on the Thunder Bay waterfront home to a number women and minority owned shops and restaurants.

Where to Stay

There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Thunder Bay, but we highly recommend staying at the Delta Hotels Marriott, the only hotel right on the Thunder Bay waterfront. Downtown is easily walkable from it, and the rooms are cozy and comfortable. The amenities make this place: There are stand-up paddle boards and bicycles available to guests, a full gym, and a Starbucks right in the lobby for our morning caffeine fix.

It’s one thing to become familiar with a location by sampling its food, viewing its landscapes, or reading through placards at a museum. It’s quite another to engage with locals at events symbolic of their heritage, culture, and even their beliefs. While we’ve always been aware of that on some level, it wasn’t until we planned our summer around attending Nova Scotia festivals that this idea began to crystalize.

Would we have understood the significance of scallops to the town of Digby and the entire region if we hadn’t spent the day partaking in their annual festival? Would we truly have appreciated the kind-heartedness of the Acadian people if we hadn’t had so many beautiful conversations with other attendees at the parade celebrating their heritage? I could go on with examples from every festival and how deeply touched we were by the interactions we had and the knowledge we gained.

These six southern festivals in Nova Scotia not only further ingrained our understanding of our new home, but also were simply so much fun!

Find out how and why below, plus our picks of other things to do when you’re in the area.

Festival Acadien de Clare

When: Typically, near the end of July, and again on August 15th (Acadian Day)
Where: Municipality of Clare

You only need to drive through the Municipality of Clare to get a feel for the immense pride of the Acadian people who live there. Flags abound, and other items – roofs, ornamental lighthouses, lobster traps, and more – are painted in the red, blue and white flag adorned with the signature yellow star. But the Acadians are not to be known only by their symbolism; we also experienced their famous friendliness multiple times during our short stay.

We were there for their most significant event of the year – the Festival Acadien de Clare – celebrating the history of the Acadian people. If you are unfamiliar with their story – the Acadians were the very first settlers to Canada (from France). They lived in harmony with the Mi’kmaq for many generations before the British expelled them. Some were allowed to return several years later, but not to their previous homes, and the population was scattered, left to start over on entirely unfamiliar land. The fact that Acadian culture is still so strong hundreds of years later is a testament to their resilience and perseverance. In essence, they have A LOT to celebrate, and this is the biggest Acadian festival in the world.

The festivities stretch for a whole week and culminate every year on August 15th, National Acadian Day. Our experience during our two days there will stick with us for a long time. From sampling Acadian cuisine to shopping for local art, watching their colourful parade and more, those experiences were punctuated by the friendliness of all we encountered.

Other Things to Do Nearby

Mavillette Beach Provincial Park

This stretch of beach had been on our to-do list for a very long time. Our visit coincided with a dense fog for most of the time, but it did not hamper our spirits one bit. The white sand was soft and beautiful; the rolling waves were therapeutic. This is a spot we will definitely return to many times over, we are sure.

Smugglers Cove

Photos do not do this scenic spot justice. It’s only a brief walk and a few stairs to get to that view below, and a very worthy stop.

Cape Saint Mary Lighthouse Park

A quick drive up the hill from Mavillette Beach, a stop here offers views of dramatic craggy cliffs. It took us back to Ireland or Scotland and had us lingering longer than we actually had time for! (Plan accordingly.)

Where to Stay and Eat in Clare

La Cuisine Robicheau

If you want to sample Acadian food, make this your stop. Their famed poutine râpée often sells out by noon – make sure to order it in advance. They even smartly offer a sampler if you want to try it before ordering a whole plate, as it’s NOT for everyone (Pete enjoyed it, I didn’t)! Admittedly, Pete was more excited about this first sample of creamed lobster and still talks about it all the time.

The Wheelhouse Seafood and Pasta

A delightful little cafe with a fantastic fresh menu! But saving room for dessert is a MUST here – the homemade pie selection is to die for.

Cabane D’horizon

These sea cans on the sea are just down the road from La Cuisine Robicheau and owned by the same people. These wee containers are loaded with luxuries and give you a front-row seat to epic sunsets you won’t find elsewhere.

Shelburne Dock St. Days

When: Typically early August
Where: Shelburne

The small town of Shelburne, tucked away in the southeast corner of Nova Scotia, is poised for tremendous things. As beautiful as Lunenburg and with abundant historical stories to tell, Shelburne has so much to offer but is absent bountiful crowds. Yet.

That small-town feel is what made our experience at the Shelburne Dock St. Days so joyful. And it was the camaraderie around the locals that elevated it to truly memorable, likely (and SO unfortunately) because they were bonded months prior when the county and community were threatened with a substantial wildfire. With over 230 square km burned and 150 structures lost (including 60 homes), the locals rallied together. Fittingly, the 2023 festival was dedicated in honour of the volunteer firefighters, and many even participated in the just-for-fun firefighter games. “I’ll be cheering for him,” one woman standing said to me before one competition started, “He lost his home but just got back out there and continued to fight with everyone else.”

The cheers and pure jubilation of this festival may just be what the town needed, and it was a privilege to witness. Beyond the firefighter games, there were dozens of events: lots of live music, a djembe drum circle (which we particularly loved), a cornhole tournament, a children’s parade, unique street vendors, the hilarious trawl tub races (which was almost total carnage right off the start, it’s tough!), and so much more.

But the real highlight was the Parade of Lights: a procession of boats dressed up to the nines with lights through the natural harbour of Shelburne. Fireworks from onboard faded over the water and sparkled in reflection. With many boats decorated acknowledging local heroes, it was a spectacular way to honour them.

Other Things to Do Nearby

Sandy Point Lighthouse

Not far from Shelbourne, what is most remarkable about this lighthouse is that when the tide is out, you can walk right out to it! That’s also the time when the gorgeous white sand emerges, and visitors can have some beach time before the tide rolls back in.

Where to Eat and Stay in Shelburne

The Emerald Light

As a non-seafood eater (me, Dalene!) I can get a little worn down by menu offerings in smaller places, as the choices are often repetitive and limited. The Emerald Light is an excellent exception! The Korean chicken and waffles were especially good.

Boxing Rock Brewing Company

We knew of Boxing Rock well before our arrival in Shelbourne, as the brand has graced our fridge shelves many times! Thus, a stop had to be made, and as expected, it always tastes better straight from the source. There’s a great atmosphere there, too.

Cooper’s Inn

We enjoyed comfort and great views at this historic waterfront property. Other reasons to stay: the sumptuous breakfasts and the gorgeous patio onsite.

Digby Scallop Days

When: Typically, the second week of August
Where: Digby

The little town of Digby is home to a mighty big claim: “Scallop Capital of the World”.

The title is well-earned! This is where commercial fishing for scallops started in 1920, and these little bivalve mollusks continue to help fuel the abundant fishing in the area. Digby scallops have also long had a stellar reputation for taste – the cold water in the area, combined with the giant swing in Bay of Fundy tides that bring in plenty of fresh food for the scallops – ensure they are plentiful and plump. Diving into a plate of fresh scallops is definitely one of the best things to do in the Annapolis Valley.

It is no wonder that Digby Scallop Days was such a fun festival to attend! Digbyites have a lot to celebrate regarding their relationship with scallops, and they went all out. In our short time visiting (just one day over a possible three, all full of events), we witnessed a scallop-shucking demo (which is a rare treat as this is usually done on the boat), live music, an enthusiastic parade, and we browsed through local vendor wares.

And, of course, there were plenty of unique scallop dishes to be had around town (Pete had his share!), and even though I don’t eat anything from the sea, I loved pretending I was an artist for a hot minute by painting an empty shell.

Other Things to Do Nearby

Balancing Rock

Make your way to Long Island and take a quick 2.5 km hike, including 235 steps down, which will bring you to a platform to see the Balancing Rock. The massive basalt tower looks out over St. Mary’s Bay and is nicknamed the “Nature’s Time Post”.

Whale Watching

Another top reason for visiting Digby is as a jumping-off point for whale-watching tours via nearby Brier Island. Whale season is typically July to October.

Maud Lewis Replica House and Memorial Park

Maud Lewis is one of Nova Scotia’s renowned artists and is honoured near Digby with the Maud Lewis Replica House and the Maud Lewis Memorial Park. The house is a replica of the one where Maud spent her life and has an honour system gift ship for those looking for a souvenir. The Maud Lewis Memorial Park is where she created her work and is a peaceful spot to learn about her history and legacy.

Where to Eat and Stay in Digby

The Crow’s Nest

Renowned for friendly service and excellent food, Pete devoured his lobster roll and a cup of chowder, and although the patio seating was a bit tight, we both loved the Digby harbour views.

Fundy Restaurant

Go for the scallops, but stay for the patio! With an elevated seat right on the water’s edge, you can enjoy the fresh ocean breezes while you dive into their generous plates of food.

Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa

This historic resort hotel is on a fantastic sprawl of land overlooking the Bay of Fundy. Enjoy the outdoor pool and golf course in summer, and in the off-season, the excellent food at the onsite restaurant will keep you coming back.

Cape Daze

When: Varies
Where: Cape Sable, accessible only by boat (must register in advance)

Cape Daze is not a typical festival – there is no parade, no live music, and no local market. It’s simply a day to enjoy exploring an island once inhabited by lighthouse builders and then keepers, and now with only two summer cottages remaining. It’s a day celebrating the tallest lighthouse in Nova Scotia (and the third highest in Canada) that saved many lives after being built along the treacherous coastline. And it’s a day for visitors to help gather the garbage that accumulates here – given it’s at Nova Scotia’s most southerly point with a lot of water beyond, it’s not an insignificant amount.

Even though it was quite foggy this year, the island’s beauty was undeniable. We gathered garbage in two very full bags – all 68 volunteers brought in 800lbs – and also took some time to enjoy the blissful isolation and sound of only ocean waves.

After five hours on the island (boats return regularly so you can stay longer – or shorter – if you want), we left wet and muddy but with smiles plastered across our faces. Coupling tourism with environmental work is not done enough, and Cape Daze sets an excellent example of how this can be done. We genuinely hope it inspires more.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The Hawk

You can actually view Cape Sable Lighthouse from this gorgeous stretch of sand that is also home to a 1,500-year-old drowned forest. Add the birding potential here (it’s a protected area), and you can easily wile away a day or two enjoying it.

Wild Axe Lumberjack

Ever wondered how you would fare as a lumberjack? Well, you can find out at the Wild Axe Lumberjack experience in Barrington. Get instruction from world-champion logroller Darren Hudson and try your hand at axe throwing, your feet at logrolling, and much more!

Where to Eat and Stay Near Cape Sable Island

Captain Kat’s Lobster Shack

Captain Kat’s is THE renowned place to go for lobster on the south shore, so you may need a couple of visits to try the array of lobster choices. Pete ordered both the lobster fondue and lobster roll, and I had to roll him out of there afterwards.

West Head Takeout

A tiny takeout shack in Clark’s Harbour, prepare yourself for very generous portions (consider going splitsies with your pal) and to quickly devour the fresh seafood dishes. On recommendation from a friend, Pete had the “Captain’s Burger” in which you can pick two types of seafood all within one bun. He opted for clams and haddock and left a very happy man.

PEBs by the Sea Dome

You can’t get a much better view of Cape Sable than you can from these dome locations on the sea’s edge. The domes themselves are cozy, but the patio is where you may spend most of your time watching the sun go down or the fog roll in (or both simultaneously).

Starlight Festival

When: 10 days, starting in mid-September
Where: Yarmouth and area

When the point of a festival is to appreciate the night sky – to stand in the pitch dark and absorb your surroundings using your limited night vision and other senses – it is a bit disarming for us content creators. Our cameras became somewhat worthless, but on reflection, that might have been the best part about it. We were total participants in the events we attended.

The Starlight Festival, anchored in Yarmouth but spread out in the region, lasts a week with various events to take in. The region is ideally suited for such an event, with consistent efforts being made to reduce light pollution and darken the skies. It was even designated the first Starlight Reserve in North America by The International Starlight Foundation. We opted to take in two events: a night hike and an evening spent in a dark field with a giant telescope.

A Night Hike with Paul Lelonde of La Nuit Stella

Paul led us on a forest walk, starting at the Université Sainte-Anne in Clare just after the sun went down. While a bit creepy at times to walk in total darkness and only be led by the sounds of shuffling feet in front of us, it was also such a fascinating way to challenge all of our senses. We stopped to test our ability to identify items only by smell (much more challenging than it sounds), to learn constellations, and even to spot glow worms (firefly larvae) that each emitted a tiny pinpoint of light. It was an incredibly immersive experience and a new way to *see * our surroundings on a simple walk.

Dark Sky Observing with Tim Doucette

As an amateur astronomer and owner of the nearby Deep Sky Eye Observatory, Tim has a fascinating story and a true passion for all things space. So much so that he takes his “show” on the road, and we were able to meet Tim and a score of first-time night observers in a dark field right in Yarmouth.

After a brief instruction and demonstration on using his intensive telescope, all attendees were invited to take a turn looking at Saturn. “That was really cool; I’m a geek now,” said the lady who went just before we did. SAME, LADY! Never before had either of us looked through such an impressive telescope, and to see Saturn as clearly as depicted in textbooks gave us a similar WOW moment. (And a vow to head to the Deep Sky Eye Observatory when we get a chance.)

Other Things to Do Nearby

Le Village Historique Acadien de la Nouvelle-Ecosse

Step back in time to the early 1900s at this historic seaside village and an accurate representation of early Acadian life. Walk through numerous landmark buildings, including original wooden homes and a lighthouse. You can even observe and try fishing and farming traditions practiced over a century ago, plus enjoy Acadian cuisine at the onsite cafe.

Pubnico Point Trail

This well-marked trail is flat and easy to walk on, taking visitors right to the edge of the ocean for much of it. The main route is only 3.7 km (out and back), but there are a couple of offshoots and route variations that can make it longer.

Where to Eat and Stay Near Yarmouth

Tusket Falls Brewing Company

Nova Scotia is blessed with an abundance of craft breweries, and for us, Tusket Falls ranks among the best. Most notable are their sours – some of the most delicious we’ve had!

Ye Olde Argyler Lodge

This remote lodge nestled in Lobster Bay is a perfect retreat from city life, and a chance to observe the gorgeous night sky (which matched up well with the purpose of our trip)! We stayed in one of the cozy cottages and made sure to also enjoy dinner in the Lodge, which lived up to our lofty expectations.

Shag Harbour UFO XPO

When: Last weekend of September
Where: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

Growing up and watching the X-Files, we knew that “the truth is out there”.” As it turns out, the truth is actually in Nova Scotia, and more specifically, Shag Harbour. Turn back the clock to 1967, and on an October evening, several people witnessed an unidentified flying object (UFO) hovering above the trees before diving into the waters of Shag Harbour. The fishermen in the area who saw the UFO impact, contacted the RCMP, and a search immediately began. Nothing was ever found, and to this day, the mystery around what exactly happened and why it happened here remains unknown.

This is how the Shag Harbour UFO XPO came to be. People from around the world every October come to the festival in Yarmouth to listen to guest speakers, interact with other experiencers, listen to interviews, and tell their own stories about how they’ve encountered UFOs, UAPs or other phenomena. This year, the amazing speakers included:

• Nick Pope – considered the Fox Mulder of British Intelligence, he once worked as the UK’s Ministry of Defence investigating UFOs and talked about the latest discussions in US Congress and what it means going forward with investigating UFOs and UAPs.
• Dean Alimoto – an award-winning feature filmmaker and TV documentarian, and we got a sneak peek at the first episode of his upcoming documentary series “The Alien Perspective,” due to be released next year.
• Travis Walton – shared his story of how, in 1975, he went missing for five days after being abducted by a UFO. His story has been adapted to the 1993 film “Fire in the Sky”.
• Chris Styles – the man behind digging up all the info on the Shag Harbour incident and other UFO encounters here in Nova Scotia. I can’t wait to dive into his book “Impact to Contact” which explains everything that he has since uncovered.

On the second day of the XPO, participants hopped on a bus to visit the crash UFO site in Shag Harbour and a secret military base that monitored the waters surrounding Nova Scotia. We were honoured that Laurie Wickens, one of the surviving witnesses, joined us and explained what he saw that evening. When arriving at the harbour, he showed us how close the UFO impacted the water to shore and had the Canadian Coast Guard circle where it would have gone down. In the afternoon, Chris Styles gave us an explanation of the abandoned military base and the activity that once occurred there.

All in all, it was an entertaining weekend, opening a whole new part of my brain from initially thinking of “Do UFOs exist?” to “Why are they here, and what do they want?”. The truth really is here.

Other Things to Do Nearby

Cape Forchu Lighthouse

This is one of Nova Scotia’s most famous lighthouses, and rightly so. Not only for photographers looking for their version of this reflection shot but also because of the beauty that surrounds it, and most importantly how many lives this on-duty lighthouse saved (the harbour it sits in is a tricky one to navigate). It is also the only lighthouse in Nova Scotia that tourists can climb.

Where to Eat and Stay in Yarmouth

Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant and Brewery

Right on the Yarmouth waterfront is one of the most popular restaurants in town. Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant and Brewery offers the normal Nova Scotian fare and in a nautical-themed setting. What we particularly enjoyed was their locally brewed ales, especially the Yarmouth Town Brown.

Rodd Grand Yarmouth

Right in the heart of downtown Yarmouth is the Rodd Grand Hotel. This was where the UFO XPO conference was held and we had a south-facing room with a harbour view. What was best about this hotel was the location with a number of restaurants, pubs, and shops all within walking distance.

It happens often, during these vagabonding days, that I wake up with no clue as to where I am. I glance around the room, take stock of what is around, and look for revealing clues. I then flip through my mental rolodex of recent places we’ve been until I link the chain of events that lands me in that particular bedroom, in that particular moment.Sometimes, if I’m lucky, I have more conspicuous indicators. Like a dull and repetitive fog horn.

My initial reaction, that first morning on the island of Grand Manan, was to lambaste Pete for not turning the sound off on his phone before going to bed (as is a common occurrence). But soon I realized what it really was.

A glance up to the uncovered window revealed the truth. A fog had rolled in overnight and hung low, so thick that I couldn’t see the stretch of land that was on the other side of the narrow cove the evening before. Instead of being a notification on Pete’s phone, that noise which shook me awake was an echoing alert to warn boaters of this land that they may not see from the water.

Oh yeah, we’re on an island. Tucked into a cozy cabin by the coast. The previous night, we had read by a fire and went to bed with the sound of gentle waves rushing the pebbled shore. On this day, we would poke around the coastline a bit but were chased back inside by the fog and rain. Hey, we didn’t mind too much.

We had a whole week yet to explore.

Grand Manan Island is one of the largest in the Bay of Fundy but still able to be driven from one end to the other in about an hour. And its width can be crossed in even less. We figured that our task, to discover the best of this island of New Brunswick, would be easy work with time to spare. We hoped to afford many hours appreciating the bookcase in our cottage and big lounge chairs on the patios. Besides the fog horn, there was nothing but comfort and quiet.And sometimes, especially after hecktic visits home coupled with time apart, this pair wants nothing more than these two things.

But on our first evening out, spent surrounded by a roomful of locals at a fundraiser for an iconic lighthouse on the island, the tips on what to see and do were flying our way. This beach has the best sea glass, be sure to stop at this art gallery. We ended up carefully planning most of our days around special activities and especially photo opportunities – not only did we have to plan for early sunrises and late sunsets, but tide tables had to be considered. We found ourselves driving more than reading; beach-combing more than resting.

The weather was glorious – that rain on the first day was all we encountered. Nothing stopped us from bush-whacking along the Hole in the Wall trail or seal-spotting in Pettes Cove. Or watching a humpback breach or kayaking in Whale Cove. Yeah, we did all of that, and a lot more.

We Hit the Trails

There is a trail that encircles the entire island that takes about three days to complete (says a 19 year-old we met, add on a few more days for us). While that hike is now firmly bucket-listed, we settled for a shorter journey called the Hole-in-the-Wall trail that took us all the way from an arched rock through some cliff-edge camping sites (also bucket-listed), and then onto the Swallowtail lighthouse.

The best part about this trail for these hikers is that much of it (save for the short trip that can be done to the arch rock and back) is adventurous hiking. It’s decently marked, but through a variety of terrain that saw us cliffside one moment and then shuffling through tall grass the next. The dirtier we got, the more rewarding we found it.

Then, the Water

We have gone whale watching before, several times, and will admit that we were initially a bit meh on going again. Our previous experiences were pretty spectacular, could they be topped?

Turns out, they could. We voyaged 15 kilometres offshore to find humpbacks that gave us a show like we had never seen before. A young male, probably 2 or 3 years old by our captain’s estimate, played tirelessly alongside our boat. He flipped, he waved, and he breached for us several times.

The captain stated that he kept a book to track those whales who habitually hung around in this spot, complete with photos and names to set them apart. This young male had not been added yet. When he does, we recommended that his name be Show-Off.

Shooting the Sun

After being woken by foghorn that first morning, my future early rises on Grand Manan either came from planned outings to capture the sunrise, or from Pete running out the front door in his underwear with camera in hand. (Apologies to those who stayed at the cottages around us.) Those shots at Whale Cove, along with capturing the famous Swallowtail Lighthouse at daybreak, were some of our favourites.

For high drama, South Head is the place to watch the sun descend. The 100-meter cliffs are made of basalt rocks left from one giant lava flow.

Combing the Beaches

As our trip wore on, we got better at being prepared for spontaneous beach enjoyment. Sunscreen, bathing suits, sandals, beach towels – all the required gear took up a permanent spot in our back seat. We found our best beach moments to be those that are impromptu. They provided an immediate infusion of mellow that we usually never make time for otherwise.

We especially loved Deep Cove Beach for lounging and Stanley Beach for strolling on Grand Manan.

General Exploratory Pleasantry

The best thing about Grand Manan is that it has a distinct character that was unexpected; a diverse and harmonious community that made us feel immediately welcomed. We met people who had moved there from across Canada, a salty fisherman who had spent his life on the island, and eavesdropped on a conversation involving an American looking to buy a house.

There is a strong community of artists – we encountered many photographers or others with easels set up in the most scenic places. That was again reflected in the cute cafes and craft shops. Yet it exists without an ounce of kitsch, and not at all to overtly appeal to tourists.

After one week we left the island for the mainland. We were somber for the parting yet energized by all that we had seen and done. This was our first taste of a province previously unknown to us, and set us up well for what was yet to come.

Where we Stayed and How we Did it

We can’t say enough about our stay at the Inn at Whale Cove. Our bed at the “Orchardside Cottage” was one of the most comfortable we’ve had in months, and the cottage overall was well stocked and comfortable. We had two patios to choose from, views of Whale Cove, and only a fog horn to disturb us. We also indulged in one dinner at the Inn and it was superb!Of course, watching young humpback whales breach isn’t guaranteed on every outing.

Our kayak excursion wasn’t exactly as planned – we were rerouted due to wind – but any day on the water is better than a day out of it. Especially when a couple of curious seals pop up to say hi.

Our recent move to Nova Scotia surprised some in our life, but in truth, it was a long time coming. As long-time readers will note, we’ve been to Nova Scotia a lot and visited nearly every corner of the province. From the farthest tip of Cape Breton, to the southwestern scallop capital of Digby, and so many spots in between. And with each and every visit, we fell a little deeper in love.

With full-time travel in our rearview and the search for a forever home in front of us, we were drawn back to Atlantic Canada. In big moves, we are clearly decisive, but in smaller details, we are often hesitant – we knew we wanted to live in Nova Scotia, but we weren’t clear where exactly. So when the opportunity to rent a cottage for the winter near the small city of Truro arose, we jumped at it. With it situated almost smack dab in the middle of the province, we knew that it would be a perfect base to explore potential areas to live.

What we didn’t expect is that Truro, and the area surrounding it, would be quickly added to our potential list. We hadn’t spent a lot of time in this area before, but what we’ve come to learn is that there is an awful lot to love about Truro. And there is an abundant amount of things to do in Truro!

For us, it all started with the historic downtown and the marvellous library that anchors it. Once a provincial college and training centre for teachers, it was recently repurposed to be the library. It overlooks a green space (or popular skating spot in winter) and is very near to other noteworthy attractions like the year-round farmer’s market and the Colchester Museum.

(It should say something that I got my free library card before my new Nova Scotia driver’s license.)

From there, Pete and I both explored the small city and area with fervour, taking in many restaurants, local attractions, and even some shopping.

Our Favourite Truro Restaurants and Cafés

The population of Truro is just around 15,000 people. However, it serves many smaller towns around it (earning its nickname of the “Hub of Nova Scotia”), which help support the great café and food scene. Below are our favourites (so far). Here are our favourite restaurants and cafés.

Noveltea Coffeehouse & Bakery

The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and baked goods hits hard when you first walk into NovelTea Coffeehouse and Bakery. The team here has been serving locally roasted coffee and loose-leaf tea to Truro’s downtown community for over seven years now. There is so much to love about this cozy coffee shop – the patio, the ambiance inside, the outstanding customer service, and especially the cappuccino. We’ll be back to try the baked goods!

Café 311

Located just outside of Truro in North River, the fairly new Café 311 is stylish, quiet, and might just serve the best coffee I’ve had since arriving. It’s the perfect place to take a laptop or a book and while away a couple of hours while indulging in multiple cappuccinos and snacks.

Parichat’s Thai Restaurant

Parichat’s Thai Restaurant is always a stop for us when we’re heading to or through Truro. The food is very authentic, and I always order their Pad Thai. Pete gravitates to the Masaman Curry with beef and likes it extra spicy. Fresh flavours, outstanding friendly service and good portions always keep us coming back.

Hub Grub

Playing off the hub town moniker for Truro, this fast-food joint is on popular Inglis Street and is a perfect spot to grab lunch while shopping. Made from local, fresh ingredients, I ordered the popular maple bbq burger, and despite the meat being a bit under-seasoned, the soft bun and killer french fries made up for it.

Bistro 22

Bistro 22 in downtown Truro is POPULAR. We tried to get a last-minute reservation on weekends a couple of times but weren’t able to. We took a chance on a quick stop for a weekday lunch and lucked out by snagging the last table. Pete raved about the smoked salmon panini with his side of haddock chowder, and I enjoyed the chicken and cranberry panini. The side salads were also full of fun ingredients and flavour.

Murphy’s Fish & Chips

Pete is ready to tackle every fish and seafood dish in the province and made a bee-line for the well-reputed Murphy’s Fish & Chips. There was a line out the door waiting for a table and pick-up orders. The restaurant is decked out in a nautical theme with buoys, fishing nets, and other garb hanging throughout. The service is warm and kind, and when his food arrived, Pete soon knew why they had won awards for their fish and chips. Two giant pieces of golden fried haddock were accompanied by crispy french fries that overflowed the plate. It was a classic maritime meal that did not disappoint.

Great British Grub Café and Bakery

Craving a succulent meat pie or a traditional British breakfast? If so, the Great British Grub Café and Bakery is where you should head. They’re only open for breakfast and lunch, and there are daily delicious lunch specials and a variety of freshly baked meat pies and Cornish pasties. Pete only had time to grab a Guinness steak pie and fish cake to go, but it fueled him up for the afternoon. It’s comfort food at its finest.

Belly Up BBQ & Grill

We are always on the prowl for good brisket. And Belly Up BBQ & Grill delivers. If you’re looking for a big meal with lots of meat, then this restaurant is for you. Plenty of menu options and cold beverages make for a good evening and a guarantee to leave with a full belly. Be sure to check out their website and plan to catch some live music.

Sahla Thai

Located right in the centre of downtown is Sahla Thai. The service and food were very good, and Pete dove into the stir-fried spicy squid on coconut rice, impressed with how authentic the Thai flavours were. The Pad Thai is on my must-eat list the next time we go out for a meal.

Other restaurants we will be trying: Nook & Cranny, Olive and Vine, Frank and Ginas, Fletchers, and Mary & Larry’s Diner (Fish and Chips).

Other cafés worth mentioning: Red Knot Bakery, Aroma Mayo, Coffee Barn

What to Do in Truro

Victoria Park

We arrived in Truro just over a week after Hurricane Fiona drove through, and Victoria Park was one of her largest victims in the area. A 3,000-acre park right in the city, we were eager to walk the paths and find out for ourselves why it is so beloved. The park has since re-opened for the public to enjoy again. And it’s open year-round, but the trails are not groomed in the winter, and spikes are recommended. Rest assured, we’ll be back again to explore more of the over 75 km of trails, find the waterfalls, and get some trail riding in when they reopen.

The Railyard

We also had no idea that the southern end of Victoria Park is some of the best and most accessible mountain biking in Nova Scotia. The Railyward Mountain Bike Park has over 100 (40km) of trails, and there is something for every skill level. One of the trails that was open was the Reservoir Trail, an easy 6km loop that hugs the main water reservoir for Truro. Despite the grey skies, the leaves were in full autumn colour pop, and Pete only came across a couple of other cyclists and a few who were taking a nice fall walk. There’s so much more to explore, and we can’t wait to get out again!

Cobequid Trail

Runners, walkers, and hikers rejoice as the Cobequid Trail runs right through the heart of Truro. It’s an 18 km walking and bicycling trail network, and it’s open year-round. One of the most scenic sections that we saw is the trail between the Old Barns and Cobequid Bay Lookoff trailhead. There are amazing views of Cobequid Bay and Salmon River and many spots to watch the tidal bore. Inside tip – there is a small parking lot where he set off on his bike and went to the Old Barns, where the trails start.

Fundy Discovery Site

Twice a day, the incredible tides from Canada’s Bay of Fundy rush through Truro on their way in from Cobequid Bay. The Fundy Discovery Site is a popular spot to witness the tidal bore, with many viewing chairs and an interpretive centre to learn all about how and why it all happens. There are spots for picnics, a playground for kids, and public washrooms. The tidal bore times are posted on the website and on the office wall on site, so arrive 15 minutes early to see this unique phenomenon.

Civic Square

This park is the heart of downtown Truro with the iconic library on one side, the Farmer’s Market adjacent, and the street opposite houses and leads to the best eats and shopping in the city. This flexible open space was designed to be enjoyed quietly with a book or picnic, or host a variety of different events, and even provides for outdoor skating in winter.

Truro Farmer’s Market

The Truro Farmer’s Market is a year-round market that runs every Saturday morning and has products from over 50 friendly vendors during the peak summer season. Find local produce, baked goods, health and home products, wine and spirits, cheese, eggs, meat, etc. – it could easily replace your weekly trip to the grocery store all on its own (plus more). Live music and children’s activity make it even better.

Millbrook Cultural & Heritage Centre

Just south of Truro is the Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre. The centre has an excellent museum and interactive tours to help visitors understand the history and culture of the Mi’kmaw people. There also is a gift shop on site which has a first nations focus supporting local Indigenous artists. Throughout the year, there are various events hosted, and Pete attended a talk from an elder about various natural medicines and how he would collect and use them.

Berlin Wall Sections

Say what? Yeah, we were surprised too.

Just across the river in Bible Hill, on the Dalhousie Agricultural Campus, six panels of the Berlin wall can be found with a small plaque marking the area. Standing 12 ft tall and spray painted with graffiti, their purpose is to remind us of the freedoms that we enjoy as Canadians.

Christie Brook Falls

When I couldn’t get into Victoria Park for a walk, I drove a few minutes out to the Valley area for a quick stroll to Christie Brook Falls. On a fall weekday, I met just a handful of others on the trail making for a quiet, reflective walk. You can bet I’ll be back in summer when the gentle pool at the bottom of the waterfall will be a gorgeous place to cool off.

Shop Local in Truro

Noveltea Bookstore and Gifts

Procure a gently-used book from NovelTea Bookstore, and then walk over to the coffeehouse of the same name (and same owners) to read it with a warm cuppa in hand. You can also peruse new books by local authors and some great gift options (we scored an awesome puzzle for ourselves).

My Home Mercantile

Of all the attractions mentioned in this post, I made a deliberate choice to visit My Home Mercantile first.

It felt symbolic for me, that in the pursuit of what I hope to be a forever home, that I kick off the particular journey with something that explicitly states so. The story of the store, and its signature apparel brand by the same name, also drew me in. With pure East Coast pride, the founder designed it to be a welcoming place and provide for a thoughtful shopping experience. Proceeds from the sale of My Home apparel also go to help end homelessness across Canada.

I could spend hours in there. My initial purpose, to purchase a Home sweatshirt, was thwarted by the appeal of the Stay Salty sweatshirt, which also spoke volumes to me. But beyond that, I was enamoured with all of the local products available and wanted to take home almost one of everything. (If you’re on our Christmas list this year, guess where your gift is coming from?)

That’s right. It’s coming from our new home.

Others Shops to Explore: Anther & Apiary, Forage

Where to Stay in Truro

Seek on the Park Wilderness Accommodations

Another thing we love about Nova Scotia is all the different and unique accommodation options popping up across the province. On the edge of Victoria Park is Seek on the Park Wilderness Accommodations. And Pete stayed in one of their beautifully transformed shipping containers, immersing himself in all the surrounding nature. He exclaimed, “It’s so gorgeous inside, once stepping in, you would never guess it was once a shipping container.

And it’s not only shipping containers on site, there are yurts and seasonal campsites. Some of the units have hot tubs, and all the units have an outdoor Seek branded firepit for the guests to use.

Coming from landlocked Alberta, the maritime culture is something that we have never quite understood. After several weeks in Atlantic Canada we saw lobster traps pulled and even dug for our own clams, but nothing really cemented maritime life for us as strongly as our trip to the Tusket Islands.

There are over 200 islands south of Nova Scotia that belong to this archipelago, and while none of them are permanently inhabited, they once played an important role. The Islands were used as a layover for fisherman – many constructed a “shanty” onshore that they could use during peak season and cut down their commute time from home (allowing for an extra two hours of sleep each day).

Now that prime fishing grounds are much further offshore and the time saved is less significant, the shanties are no longer used for this purpose. With longer trips – lasting 30 hours – the last couple of hours make little difference. And they typically need to return home to clear out their full loads anyway. The shanties have now become summer homes and the docks are used as storage for thousands of lobster traps.

Our guides for the day, cousins Simon and Jamie, have had family property on the Islands since the 1940s. The newest one was built in 1985, but no one lives there full time.

It took us almost two hours to get from the dock in Wedgeport to our stop on the islands via a converted lobster boat. On our arrival we emptied ourselves onto the dock as crystal blue water swirled below us; the seventeen foot tides were racing in. We walked along as if in a corridor – the dock framed by layers of traps towering over our heads.

There is little about the place that could be described as conventionally scenic with many of the buildings seemingly arranged haphazardly. Jamie stopped to show me a smaller building not far from their family shanty – inside is a large metal freezer to keep what they needed for the long stays during fishing season. It sits empty now. There are no roads because there are no vehicles. Rugged paths connect houses to each other and docks. There are no beaches, but instead rocky drop offs to the rolling water below.

The house itself, complete with a modern kitchen and sitting room, sleeps nine in a large open room on the second floor – providing housing enough for two or three ships plus a cook. The kitchen was warm from the hearty bowls of seafood chowder that had been prepared to serve our group. All of the basic services are available on the island – electricity, plumbing, etc. – but no store or any means to get supplies.

The day was warm and I wished to take my time to stroll along paths and check out other vistas. But the scenery wasn’t really what we were there for. It’s the stories of these islands, and the people who use them, that would give us the taste of maritime culture we craved.

“What are your most memorable fishing stories?” I asked of Jamie, half expecting a simple fisherman’s tale of the one that got away.

Instead, his quiet demeanour broken, he divulged two tales. He lifted his shirt sleeve to reveal the goosebumps that graced his arm as he began to speak.

The first story was of when he woke up to his boat sinking. Panicked, Jamie and his mate searched for possible salvation, but ended up abandoning it quickly as it sank. The second story took longer to tell, even if it happened in only a matter of seconds. Sitting alongside a herring boat, Jamie had literally just turned his head away for seconds and turned back to find it flipped over completely under the strain of the weight it carried. Several died, but he was able to rescue a man who had been clinging to a propeller. The man had let go, but Jamie reached into the water to pull him out.

His goosebumps became mine.

“But that’s only 2 bad days in 25 years. This is a good life,” he said with a smile.

I asked if he got out to the shanty much anymore. He had, with his family, for just one night the prior week. “We need to get out here more.”

He divulged two tales. He lifted his shirt sleeve to reveal the goosebumps that graced his arm as he began to speak.

As Jamie and Simon moved around the boat to prepare for our departure, they spoke in a language neither Pete or I could understand. It was English, for sure, but the speed and dialect applied to their words rendered their conversation completely cryptic, and would likely only be understood by the people who know them and this area well. In our capacity as simple tourists we didn’t need to understand them, but yet my desire to know was overwhelming.

All told, in our few hours we heard several stories from two people about a few of the islands. The stories that exist for all are surely boundless. My understanding of the maritime culture may have been more than it was the day before but still far from what I could even fathom. Yet more than anything else had been able to, the immersive trip to the Tusket Islands left a deep impression of it.

how to do it

The Tusket Island are rich in cultural history and the family Tusket Island Tours do a really tremendous job in relaying it. Tours are only available in the summer months and even though it is only a couple of years old, they can book up fast.