Category: Destinations

Our recent move to Nova Scotia surprised some in our life, but in truth, it was a long time coming. As long-time readers will note, we’ve been to Nova Scotia a lot and visited nearly every corner of the province. From the farthest tip of Cape Breton, to the southwestern scallop capital of Digby, and so many spots in between. And with each and every visit, we fell a little deeper in love.

With full-time travel in our rearview and the search for a forever home in front of us, we were drawn back to Atlantic Canada. In big moves, we are clearly decisive, but in smaller details, we are often hesitant – we knew we wanted to live in Nova Scotia, but we weren’t clear where exactly. So when the opportunity to rent a cottage for the winter near the small city of Truro arose, we jumped at it. With it situated almost smack dab in the middle of the province, we knew that it would be a perfect base to explore potential areas to live.

What we didn’t expect is that Truro, and the area surrounding it, would be quickly added to our potential list. We hadn’t spent a lot of time in this area before, but what we’ve come to learn is that there is an awful lot to love about Truro. And there is an abundant amount of things to do in Truro!

For us, it all started with the historic downtown and the marvellous library that anchors it. Once a provincial college and training centre for teachers, it was recently repurposed to be the library. It overlooks a green space (or popular skating spot in winter) and is very near to other noteworthy attractions like the year-round farmer’s market and the Colchester Museum.

(It should say something that I got my free library card before my new Nova Scotia driver’s license.)

From there, Pete and I both explored the small city and area with fervour, taking in many restaurants, local attractions, and even some shopping.

Our Favourite Truro Restaurants and Cafés

The population of Truro is just around 15,000 people. However, it serves many smaller towns around it (earning its nickname of the “Hub of Nova Scotia”), which help support the great café and food scene. Below are our favourites (so far). Here are our favourite restaurants and cafés.

Noveltea Coffeehouse & Bakery

The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and baked goods hits hard when you first walk into NovelTea Coffeehouse and Bakery. The team here has been serving locally roasted coffee and loose-leaf tea to Truro’s downtown community for over seven years now. There is so much to love about this cozy coffee shop – the patio, the ambiance inside, the outstanding customer service, and especially the cappuccino. We’ll be back to try the baked goods!

Café 311

Located just outside of Truro in North River, the fairly new Café 311 is stylish, quiet, and might just serve the best coffee I’ve had since arriving. It’s the perfect place to take a laptop or a book and while away a couple of hours while indulging in multiple cappuccinos and snacks.

Parichat’s Thai Restaurant

Parichat’s Thai Restaurant is always a stop for us when we’re heading to or through Truro. The food is very authentic, and I always order their Pad Thai. Pete gravitates to the Masaman Curry with beef and likes it extra spicy. Fresh flavours, outstanding friendly service and good portions always keep us coming back.

Hub Grub

Playing off the hub town moniker for Truro, this fast-food joint is on popular Inglis Street and is a perfect spot to grab lunch while shopping. Made from local, fresh ingredients, I ordered the popular maple bbq burger, and despite the meat being a bit under-seasoned, the soft bun and killer french fries made up for it.

Bistro 22

Bistro 22 in downtown Truro is POPULAR. We tried to get a last-minute reservation on weekends a couple of times but weren’t able to. We took a chance on a quick stop for a weekday lunch and lucked out by snagging the last table. Pete raved about the smoked salmon panini with his side of haddock chowder, and I enjoyed the chicken and cranberry panini. The side salads were also full of fun ingredients and flavour.

Murphy’s Fish & Chips

Pete is ready to tackle every fish and seafood dish in the province and made a bee-line for the well-reputed Murphy’s Fish & Chips. There was a line out the door waiting for a table and pick-up orders. The restaurant is decked out in a nautical theme with buoys, fishing nets, and other garb hanging throughout. The service is warm and kind, and when his food arrived, Pete soon knew why they had won awards for their fish and chips. Two giant pieces of golden fried haddock were accompanied by crispy french fries that overflowed the plate. It was a classic maritime meal that did not disappoint.

Great British Grub Café and Bakery

Craving a succulent meat pie or a traditional British breakfast? If so, the Great British Grub Café and Bakery is where you should head. They’re only open for breakfast and lunch, and there are daily delicious lunch specials and a variety of freshly baked meat pies and Cornish pasties. Pete only had time to grab a Guinness steak pie and fish cake to go, but it fueled him up for the afternoon. It’s comfort food at its finest.

Belly Up BBQ & Grill

We are always on the prowl for good brisket. And Belly Up BBQ & Grill delivers. If you’re looking for a big meal with lots of meat, then this restaurant is for you. Plenty of menu options and cold beverages make for a good evening and a guarantee to leave with a full belly. Be sure to check out their website and plan to catch some live music.

Sahla Thai

Located right in the centre of downtown is Sahla Thai. The service and food were very good, and Pete dove into the stir-fried spicy squid on coconut rice, impressed with how authentic the Thai flavours were. The Pad Thai is on my must-eat list the next time we go out for a meal.

Other restaurants we will be trying: Nook & Cranny, Olive and Vine, Frank and Ginas, Fletchers, and Mary & Larry’s Diner (Fish and Chips).

Other cafés worth mentioning: Red Knot Bakery, Aroma Mayo, Coffee Barn

What to Do in Truro

Victoria Park

We arrived in Truro just over a week after Hurricane Fiona drove through, and Victoria Park was one of her largest victims in the area. A 3,000-acre park right in the city, we were eager to walk the paths and find out for ourselves why it is so beloved. The park has since re-opened for the public to enjoy again. And it’s open year-round, but the trails are not groomed in the winter, and spikes are recommended. Rest assured, we’ll be back again to explore more of the over 75 km of trails, find the waterfalls, and get some trail riding in when they reopen.

The Railyard

We also had no idea that the southern end of Victoria Park is some of the best and most accessible mountain biking in Nova Scotia. The Railyward Mountain Bike Park has over 100 (40km) of trails, and there is something for every skill level. One of the trails that was open was the Reservoir Trail, an easy 6km loop that hugs the main water reservoir for Truro. Despite the grey skies, the leaves were in full autumn colour pop, and Pete only came across a couple of other cyclists and a few who were taking a nice fall walk. There’s so much more to explore, and we can’t wait to get out again!

Cobequid Trail

Runners, walkers, and hikers rejoice as the Cobequid Trail runs right through the heart of Truro. It’s an 18 km walking and bicycling trail network, and it’s open year-round. One of the most scenic sections that we saw is the trail between the Old Barns and Cobequid Bay Lookoff trailhead. There are amazing views of Cobequid Bay and Salmon River and many spots to watch the tidal bore. Inside tip – there is a small parking lot where he set off on his bike and went to the Old Barns, where the trails start.

Fundy Discovery Site

Twice a day, the incredible tides from Canada’s Bay of Fundy rush through Truro on their way in from Cobequid Bay. The Fundy Discovery Site is a popular spot to witness the tidal bore, with many viewing chairs and an interpretive centre to learn all about how and why it all happens. There are spots for picnics, a playground for kids, and public washrooms. The tidal bore times are posted on the website and on the office wall on site, so arrive 15 minutes early to see this unique phenomenon.

Civic Square

This park is the heart of downtown Truro with the iconic library on one side, the Farmer’s Market adjacent, and the street opposite houses and leads to the best eats and shopping in the city. This flexible open space was designed to be enjoyed quietly with a book or picnic, or host a variety of different events, and even provides for outdoor skating in winter.

Truro Farmer’s Market

The Truro Farmer’s Market is a year-round market that runs every Saturday morning and has products from over 50 friendly vendors during the peak summer season. Find local produce, baked goods, health and home products, wine and spirits, cheese, eggs, meat, etc. – it could easily replace your weekly trip to the grocery store all on its own (plus more). Live music and children’s activity make it even better.

Millbrook Cultural & Heritage Centre

Just south of Truro is the Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre. The centre has an excellent museum and interactive tours to help visitors understand the history and culture of the Mi’kmaw people. There also is a gift shop on site which has a first nations focus supporting local Indigenous artists. Throughout the year, there are various events hosted, and Pete attended a talk from an elder about various natural medicines and how he would collect and use them.

Berlin Wall Sections

Say what? Yeah, we were surprised too.

Just across the river in Bible Hill, on the Dalhousie Agricultural Campus, six panels of the Berlin wall can be found with a small plaque marking the area. Standing 12 ft tall and spray painted with graffiti, their purpose is to remind us of the freedoms that we enjoy as Canadians.

Christie Brook Falls

When I couldn’t get into Victoria Park for a walk, I drove a few minutes out to the Valley area for a quick stroll to Christie Brook Falls. On a fall weekday, I met just a handful of others on the trail making for a quiet, reflective walk. You can bet I’ll be back in summer when the gentle pool at the bottom of the waterfall will be a gorgeous place to cool off.

Shop Local in Truro

Noveltea Bookstore and Gifts

Procure a gently-used book from NovelTea Bookstore, and then walk over to the coffeehouse of the same name (and same owners) to read it with a warm cuppa in hand. You can also peruse new books by local authors and some great gift options (we scored an awesome puzzle for ourselves).

My Home Mercantile

Of all the attractions mentioned in this post, I made a deliberate choice to visit My Home Mercantile first.

It felt symbolic for me, that in the pursuit of what I hope to be a forever home, that I kick off the particular journey with something that explicitly states so. The story of the store, and its signature apparel brand by the same name, also drew me in. With pure East Coast pride, the founder designed it to be a welcoming place and provide for a thoughtful shopping experience. Proceeds from the sale of My Home apparel also go to help end homelessness across Canada.

I could spend hours in there. My initial purpose, to purchase a Home sweatshirt, was thwarted by the appeal of the Stay Salty sweatshirt, which also spoke volumes to me. But beyond that, I was enamoured with all of the local products available and wanted to take home almost one of everything. (If you’re on our Christmas list this year, guess where your gift is coming from?)

That’s right. It’s coming from our new home.

Others Shops to Explore: Anther & Apiary, Forage

Where to Stay in Truro

Seek on the Park Wilderness Accommodations

Another thing we love about Nova Scotia is all the different and unique accommodation options popping up across the province. On the edge of Victoria Park is Seek on the Park Wilderness Accommodations. And Pete stayed in one of their beautifully transformed shipping containers, immersing himself in all the surrounding nature. He exclaimed, “It’s so gorgeous inside, once stepping in, you would never guess it was once a shipping container.

And it’s not only shipping containers on site, there are yurts and seasonal campsites. Some of the units have hot tubs, and all the units have an outdoor Seek branded firepit for the guests to use.

Coming from landlocked Alberta, the maritime culture is something that we have never quite understood. After several weeks in Atlantic Canada we saw lobster traps pulled and even dug for our own clams, but nothing really cemented maritime life for us as strongly as our trip to the Tusket Islands.

There are over 200 islands south of Nova Scotia that belong to this archipelago, and while none of them are permanently inhabited, they once played an important role. The Islands were used as a layover for fisherman – many constructed a “shanty” onshore that they could use during peak season and cut down their commute time from home (allowing for an extra two hours of sleep each day).

Now that prime fishing grounds are much further offshore and the time saved is less significant, the shanties are no longer used for this purpose. With longer trips – lasting 30 hours – the last couple of hours make little difference. And they typically need to return home to clear out their full loads anyway. The shanties have now become summer homes and the docks are used as storage for thousands of lobster traps.

Our guides for the day, cousins Simon and Jamie, have had family property on the Islands since the 1940s. The newest one was built in 1985, but no one lives there full time.

It took us almost two hours to get from the dock in Wedgeport to our stop on the islands via a converted lobster boat. On our arrival we emptied ourselves onto the dock as crystal blue water swirled below us; the seventeen foot tides were racing in. We walked along as if in a corridor – the dock framed by layers of traps towering over our heads.

There is little about the place that could be described as conventionally scenic with many of the buildings seemingly arranged haphazardly. Jamie stopped to show me a smaller building not far from their family shanty – inside is a large metal freezer to keep what they needed for the long stays during fishing season. It sits empty now. There are no roads because there are no vehicles. Rugged paths connect houses to each other and docks. There are no beaches, but instead rocky drop offs to the rolling water below.

The house itself, complete with a modern kitchen and sitting room, sleeps nine in a large open room on the second floor – providing housing enough for two or three ships plus a cook. The kitchen was warm from the hearty bowls of seafood chowder that had been prepared to serve our group. All of the basic services are available on the island – electricity, plumbing, etc. – but no store or any means to get supplies.

The day was warm and I wished to take my time to stroll along paths and check out other vistas. But the scenery wasn’t really what we were there for. It’s the stories of these islands, and the people who use them, that would give us the taste of maritime culture we craved.

“What are your most memorable fishing stories?” I asked of Jamie, half expecting a simple fisherman’s tale of the one that got away.

Instead, his quiet demeanour broken, he divulged two tales. He lifted his shirt sleeve to reveal the goosebumps that graced his arm as he began to speak.

The first story was of when he woke up to his boat sinking. Panicked, Jamie and his mate searched for possible salvation, but ended up abandoning it quickly as it sank. The second story took longer to tell, even if it happened in only a matter of seconds. Sitting alongside a herring boat, Jamie had literally just turned his head away for seconds and turned back to find it flipped over completely under the strain of the weight it carried. Several died, but he was able to rescue a man who had been clinging to a propeller. The man had let go, but Jamie reached into the water to pull him out.

His goosebumps became mine.

“But that’s only 2 bad days in 25 years. This is a good life,” he said with a smile.

I asked if he got out to the shanty much anymore. He had, with his family, for just one night the prior week. “We need to get out here more.”

He divulged two tales. He lifted his shirt sleeve to reveal the goosebumps that graced his arm as he began to speak.

As Jamie and Simon moved around the boat to prepare for our departure, they spoke in a language neither Pete or I could understand. It was English, for sure, but the speed and dialect applied to their words rendered their conversation completely cryptic, and would likely only be understood by the people who know them and this area well. In our capacity as simple tourists we didn’t need to understand them, but yet my desire to know was overwhelming.

All told, in our few hours we heard several stories from two people about a few of the islands. The stories that exist for all are surely boundless. My understanding of the maritime culture may have been more than it was the day before but still far from what I could even fathom. Yet more than anything else had been able to, the immersive trip to the Tusket Islands left a deep impression of it.

how to do it

The Tusket Island are rich in cultural history and the family Tusket Island Tours do a really tremendous job in relaying it. Tours are only available in the summer months and even though it is only a couple of years old, they can book up fast.

We’ve been to many restaurants over the years that claim “farm-to-table” menus, and they all do provide that, to some extent. Before dining at Maison de Soma, however, we had never gone to an establishment that embraces it so fully.

And we mean fully. On their 600+ acre farm, they raise animals and plants that provide what they serve. They have organic gardens, a nursery just for peppers (well-moderated heat is a passion of the team), orchards, and even their own fermentation lab in order to preserve their summer yield. If they can’t grow it themselves, or find it from a local producer, they don’t use it. This means no tropical ingredients including staples like citrus or olive oil. And this also means that boundless creativity is essential to their success.

Success that they have quickly found. Recently named one of the best new restaurants in Canada by Enroute Magazine, our evening sampling their seasonal menu unmistakably demonstrated why. Favourites included the mapo pork and tofu with house-baked bread, fire-rilled bison with smashed potato topped with their famous chien sauce, and steamed trout quenelles and dashi. But the stand out was the dessert: a beet and ginger cake, with cream cheese made in-house. No other meal we’ve had tasted as fresher, or as thoughtfully put together. Ever.

Dining at Maison de Soma was a highlight of our trip to the Laurentians, but the region’s embrace of its bountiful land does not stop there. It permeates everything they offer, and everything we enjoyed.

Other Things to do in the Laurentians

Sentier des Cimes (Mont-Blanc)

One way to fully appreciate the Laurentians is to see it from above, as such it was fitting that our outdoor adventure began with a visit to Sentier des Cimes. Its intent is to give visitors an awe-inspiring view of the region from a soaring 40-metre high tower, with mountains and lush forestscapes stretched out below.

Our planned timing may have been fitting, but the weather hampered our visit. While we made it to the top of the tower, howling wind and snow prevented us from seeing much. The photos below are what visitors would see on a better weather day.

Our visit was not without its perks, however. The interactive boardwalk broadened our knowledge of the region with helpful placards, and the small bird-feeding section held our attention for as long as we could stand the cold (so many chickadees and squirrels!).

And on our return to the centre, the onsite restaurant Chez Emile warmed us up with hot apple cider, baguettes stuffed with fondue cheese and more in a picnic box, served as we snuggled up at the outside firepit with snow falling gently around us.

Gourmet Sauvage (Mont-Blanc)

Onsite at the Sentier des Cimes is a small gourmet shop that is unlike any we’ve seen before. Gourmet Sauvage is focused on northern gastronomy, over 100 hand-picked unique products are processed artisanally in their own kitchen. We walked away with a bagful of goodies we had never seen before: sweet clover extract, marinated hearts of cattails, balsam fir jelly, to name a few. These rare Laurentians ingredients also make their way into body care items, spices, and more.

Tremblant (Mont-Tremblant)

The raison d’être for many visitors to the Laurentians region is to spend time at the Tremblant resort. Justifiably so, careening down the slopes of Mont Tremblant by ski or snowboard is a worthy endeavour (as Pete can attest to), and there is a lot of fun to be had in the small pedestrian village, even for non-skiers.

Scandinave Spa (Mont-Tremblant)

This Nordic spa is so close to Tremblant, it should be a required visit for any resort vacationers. The afternoon following Pete’s time skiing, we booked in for a few hours in this nourishing and relaxing outdoor space. We’ve been to several of these types of outdoor spas now, but this might be our favourite for two notable reasons. First: the layout, with small breakout spots everywhere, it is conducive to finding an intimate corner to wile away time in. Second is the spa’s commitment to providing the utmost tranquil environment; despite asking all to be quiet, it is inevitable that some patrons will talk during their visit. However, in some parts, any conversation is barely discernible due to the excellent use of waterfalls which also provide essential white noise.

One other unique feature is their fitting embrace of their environment in the form of a dip in the river. Cold showers and plunges, essential to the full thermal cycle experience, are common at Nordic spas, but none that we have been to in Canada included the natural environment like this. We didn’t partake (the temp was just at the freezing mark), and instead spent most of our hours rotating from hot pool to comfortable loungers under the heat lamps. Pete, ever the adventurer, plunged in the cold pool twice (at a more palatable 10C). He was refreshed, alert, and became fully relaxed after doing so.

Kanatha-Aki Nature Centre (Val-des-Lacs)

Kanatha-Aki is a centre that provides visitors all kinds of opportunities to connect with nature. For us, it was via a morning of dogsledding.

This was a nostalgic experience for me. My family had two sled dogs for a short while growing up: Gopher and Babes. At first sight of their harnesses, they both would howl in anticipation, knowing that my sisters and I were about to hook them up to our toboggan to go for a run. We’d whip around the snowy streets of our small hamlet, and undoubtedly end up tangled around the one stop sign in town thanks to Babes (Gopher was older and well-trained).

Our sled dog team from Kanatha-Aki, led by their owner Felix, was just as excitable, but much better trained. Ice Cube and Hannah Montana, along with eight other dogs with rock star names, raced us around the maze of paths near the centre. The snow was plentiful and the sky was mostly blue, which was the perfect combination for a beautiful morning spent there. After our hour with the dogs, we were treated to a fondue lunch inside the cozy lodge, and warmed ourselves with the company of other visitors and the charming atmosphere.

Au Petit Poucet (Val-David)

A first thought of many people when discussing Québec, both in Canada and abroad, is that of maple syrup. And that thought is not misplaced: Québec produces 90% of Canada’s syrup from its vast forests, and the province is the leading producer in the entire world.

And while you may be hard pressed to find a menu in the Laurentians that doesn’t include maple syrup in some capacity, any visitor to the region then should make a stop at Au Petit Poucet to see it in a variety of forms, in complete kitchsy Québecois glory.

The restaurant is a wood cabin adorned in buffalo plaid, complete with cracklin’ fireplaces and many spruce and pine boughs, a stuffed bear, a stuffed moose head, and hunting and trapping tools hanging on walls. The menu is dense and full of traditional items; it’s a great place for any visitor to try their first tourtière or sugar pie, and you can even get the maple syrup taffy experience brought to your table (where maple syrup is poured over crushed ice and rolled up on a stick like a lollipop as it hardens).

The town the restaurant resides in, Val-David, is a charmer all its own. The small village boasts a surprising number of attractions given its size, and we spent an hour hopping into stores on the main street. Some intriguing ones were sadly closed during our visit, and when we asked one store attendant about things to do in town, she first asked how much time we had. Beyond the town’s borders is a wilderness set up for playing in – think oodles of cross-country skiing trails in winter, and bike or hike trails in summer. And that’s just for starters.

Héli-Tremblant (Mont-Tremblant)

Our last planned activity in the Laurentians had us viewing the region from above once again. Our brief, ten-minute journey by Héli-Tremblant took us over the roads we drove in on, the tower we climbed, and the mountain that Pete skied down. Much of the area, covered in a thick layer of white snow, looked graceful and inviting, which was symbolic of our previous three days, including the many engaging people we met.

I couldn’t help but wonder about summer and autumn though, to see this region explode in greens, golds, and reds would be a marvel. We are both eager to return to the Laurentians and find out.

I am finally writing this as snow flies outside for the first time since early spring of this year. As soon as I woke I opened the front door a crack to let in a rush of cool air and freshness like only the first frost can bring.I’ve been waiting for this day. Not only because I do enjoy cooler weather, but also because I’ve been aching to finally publish what I’ve been musing about since our trip to experience a Yukon winter last February. (It always seems somewhat inappropriate to post something from one season when the next one is starting, and especially when people are excited for the change. I enjoy winter but last year’s was a longggg one.)

Well now that winter has landed, I want to make my annual plea for everyone to embrace it. And there are few places in the world that can inspire an endorsement of the iciest season better than the Yukon Territory.

Yukon is, quite literally, the epitomy of the Great, White, and North. And that has to be part of its fantastic appeal and why winter tourism in the territory is on the rise. It may take a brave soul (and a lot of layers of clothing), but for those with an adventurous spirit, there are plenty of good times to be had.Especially in February!

yukon sourdough rendezvous festival

On the shortest day of the year, December 21st, residents of Whitehorse experience only 5 and a half hours of daylight. In mid-February, at the start of the Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous, sunlight time has grown to just over 9 hours. You better believe that residents are ready to embrace all of those extra minutes and then some. Rendezvous is a full-on celebration of the emergence from winter. The snow may still be flying and temperatures dipping far below freezing, but that stops no one. With everything from dog costume parades to hard water canoe races to flour packing, and yes, even hairiest leg competitions (why shave in winter?), Rendezvous is a truly unique festival.

This was where we saw people throwing logs and axes, a pretty epic drag show (for the crowning of the “Sourdough Sam”), and the very best cancans that we ever did see. And this is also where we met the most locals who were as endearing as they were entertaining, and who even caused us to contemplate a move up there (and we still talk about it). That’s how special this festival is.

Takhini Hot Springs

After witnessing much of the festival in a swirl of winter outside, plans to warm up should follow. Not far from Whitehorse is the Takhini Hot Springs.

The outdoor pools are the perfect antidote to chilled bones, and even though I typically eschew such “human soup” experiences, I lingered for a good long time, even if it wasn’t quite Yukon winter at its most boisterous (it was about -10C when we visited). I was, in all honesty, even a little disappointed by the “warm” temperature, as it prevented me from an attempt to enter the hair-freezing contest that is a part of the Rendezvous Festival.

Yukon Wildlife Preserve

Just a few kilometers from the Hot Springs is the Yukon Wildlife Preserve, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving its 700 acres of land and the array of beings that inhabit it, all of which are native to the territory. Against the magnificent setting are eleven animal species and ninety of birds.

The passion of the staff for the animals is highly apparent and encouraging to witness. We were so glad to book one of the tours, not only to access their wealth of knowledge, but for the warmth of the bus in between stops on the preserve.

Kluane National Park

To truly appreciate the conditions and landscape that the people and wildlife of the territory are a part of, soar above to see it in all its glory. A flight over one Kluane, one of the most scenic National Parks in Canada, is a must (as are some anti-nausea meds, if you have a sensitive tummy like me).

We were so close it felt as if we could reach our hands out of the plane and touch the tips of the St. Elias mountain tops. Rock faces broke through clouds, and frozen rivers weaved and forged through the landscape into Kluane Lake. There was a seemingly endless freeway of ice from the glaciers that twisted and turned through the valley. We even caught a glimpse of the highest mountain in Canada, Mount Logan, as it peeked through some clouds.

All Kinds of Wintery fun

How does snowmobiling to a frozen lake for a bit of hiking and a game of shinny hockey sound? Throw in some campfire treats and this is the ultimate Canadian winter experience. We found ourselves on Caribou Lake for these exact reasons and between all the activities, plus making snow angels and just admiring the bluebird-sky day, we wiled away hours in the fresh, crisp air.

Aurora Spotting

The chances of seeing the northern lights while in the Yukon during winter are substantial, as long as the skies are clear. (That is an important caveat.) The best months are August through April, and even with low aurora activity, the far northern location means viewing the lights is still very possible.

It was on our last night, while staying at the incomparable Inn on the Lake, when the magic happened. Although they aurora yet viewable to the human eye, Pete caught the famous green glow on his camera and ushered everyone outside to wait for them to dance.

And it wasn’t just an aurora show on display, but Pete captured a significant moment for a sweet young couple we had just met from Mexico. When the lights came into view, he dropped to one knee, and she said yes. They had journeyed a great distance for that moment, and on their last night, the opportunity finally came.

It was a case of right place, right people, right time, and left a lasting impression. (We can’t guarantee such an enchanting moment for everyone when they visit the Yukon. But we can all hope, right?)

As a child, Pete camped in Prince Albert National Park with his family a couple of times. Too young to remember many details, he said the strongest memory he has is of leaving the area to return home to Edmonton. He bawled on his way out of the small townsite of Waskesiu. He told me that he had so much fun making new friends at the beaches that he didn’t want his time there to end.

Upon our invite to explore the area in all its winter glory, we didn’t hesitate to accept and arrived in mid-January. Pete was eager to see what he remembered. I was eager to see if he’d be able to keep it together this time.

“What’s your wolf strategy?” Our guide Brad asked as we drove out of Waskesiu to do some wildlife spotting. My initial thought was to respond with: umm, scream and run? But then I realized that he was subtly referring to the fact that our camera sat loosely between us and rendered useless if we were afforded only a quick sighting. With Pete’s hands on the steering wheel, I took up the charge, holding the heavy camera body in my lap with one finger on the trigger.

It was a surprise to me that seeing wolves was even a possibility, figuring that they are strictly elusive, but Brad assured me that they can be curious. And in Prince Albert National Park, they are also plentiful. I had never seen one in real life before.

Just a few minutes out of Waskesiu we were surprised by another species — two large elk sauntered across the road in front of us, unbothered by our presence. Thanks to my prepared wolf strategy, my trigger finger was able to get off a couple of shots before shadows from the tree-lined road hid the optimal light from my lens. It would be our only wildlife sighting from our couple of hours of viewing — the wolves remained elusive, and the spot where we had hoped to see otters was too frozen over. Witnessing the free-roaming bison would involve too far of a drive for our short stay.

No matter, there is so much more to do in the area anyway.

Prince Albert National Park encompasses 3,874 square kilometers of boreal forest and encompasses the merging of the northern and southern ecosystems. The park itself was formed in the late 1920s for tourism and recreation, and only in the 50s did people begin to realize how important it is for preservation.

Hence the world-class concentration of wildlife, and part of the draw for people from all over the country and world. Notably, one of Canada’s most well-known naturalist and conservationist, Grey Owl, lived in the park in solitude and wrote books from it for many years. (And was even played by Pierce Brosnan in a feature film about his life.)

For almost one hundred years the protected park has become a playground for both animals and humans alike. After our quick attempt at wildlife viewing and several stops along the way to capture quintessential winter scenes, we eagerly turned our attention to the other activities offered.

There are many options available, but only one place to start.

Hawood Inn, located within the townsite of Waskesiu, generously houses equipment of all kind. Cross-country skis, snowshoes, and more are available for free loan, and we loaded up all possibilities in our vehicle to have on hand and use depending on the situation in front of us.

With forty-seven kilometers of well-groomed cross-country ski trails available, we were both eager to attempt at least one. We have never historically been very good at the sport on the several occasions we have tried it in the past, but without doubt, this was my favourite experience in the park. While the temperatures read well below freezing, no wind was present among the trees surrounding the Fisher Trail. Nor was any sound but the swish of our movements through the forest. The snow was plentiful, the terrain was gentle, and the sun rays continuously split through the coniferous trees as the bluebird sky stretched overhead. Our limited abilities failed to matter in such a perfect setting.

Hawood Inn, also our home for a couple of nights, allowed us to cap off perfect days with a soak in their rooftop hot tub. (By us, I mean Pete, as I’m never a huge fan of indulging ‘human-soup-containers’. But he enjoyed it thoroughly and even took the opportunity to try freezing his hair, an authentic Canadian experience we learned about in Yukon but never were able to partake in while we were there.)

On the outside edge of Prince Albert National Park is also Elk Ridge Resort — a year-round retreat with a special affinity for indulging winter fantasies. Besides being an obvious magnet for wedding parties to its gorgeous property, it also can be a temporary home for anyone who likes to curl up in front of a cozy fireplace with a drink in hand. Spa-goers and fine diners will also be very pleased with what is on offer. As will anyone in snow pants.

We eagerly shoved our bags in our room and ran outside to do as much as we could before the early evening crept in. Surrounding the expansive hotel are a variety of activity stations. An outdoor skating rink with hockey equipment is nearby, a miniature sheet of curling ice, signposts marking cross-country skiing trails, plus ample trails for tramping (perfect for us snowshoeing beginners). But what had our attention most eagerly was the crokicurl.

As avid curlers, this life-size hybrid of curling and crokinole has long fascinated us. (And by long, I mean since its inception in Winnipeg just a few years ago). We were enamoured by the curling rocks made of hockey pucks (does it get any more Canadian than that?) and squealed so much about our intense game that I am sure patrons inside the hotel heard us.

As it goes in the north in winter months, darkness fell in the late afternoon and we called it a day (after Pete finally wiped the ice with me in crokicurl). I forgave him over drinks and dinner by the aforementioned fireplace. The meal helped to smooth it over — brussel sprouts with wild boar, braised elk tips and the best truffle oil mashed potatoes I’ve had in a long time. We slept snuggly and deeply until our early morning rise to begin the trek home.

I watched Pete’s face as we pulled away, waiting for any sign of waterworks to begin. It had been over 30 years since his last visit, and this time he managed to keep his emotions in check. Although I expect that the maturity gained over the years caused his tears to turn to smiles as he was beaming plenty. As was I. This little winter escape to a little winter town in a large national park was packed full of more fun than either of us had imagined.

how to do it

If traveling north from Saskatoon, access to the national park is located on Highway #2, and the townsite of Waskesiu is just minutes from the main highway. Bustling with tourists in the summer, the winter season will provide a bit of a trade off — fewer crowds for a couple more layers of clothing.

Driving the area surrounding Waskesiu provides a perfect sample of the park. You don’t have to venture too far off the main paths to feel like you are somewhere completely secluded and in nature. Just be sure to have your wolf strategy prepared.

Hawood Inn was comfortable and perfectly equipped to make a winter vacation in the park enjoyable. Be sure to also stop at the Parks Canada office for current information. Also, as usual, we found that having a guide early in our stay amplified the experience for us — we learned a lot about the area in a very short time period.

5 am and the sun is just rolling over the horizon. I’m already on the road and can see the rays finding their way through the idle rail cars along Highway 3, heading west. This drive is always one of my favourites. Peaks of the majestic Rocky Mountains stretch across my windshield. And today I have time to take the slower route along the Cowboy Trail.

I’m riding solo and off to explore a region that I’ve never spent much time in apart from a quick stop for fuel. For me, just west of Calgary is a new frontier and a part of Alberta I have not frequented. But I’m excited that in this little area around Sundre, Alberta, between the Rockies and the Prairies, is where David Thompson once stood and discovered this “prairie on the mountain”. He stood on the doorstep of what is now Banff National Park, and had a complete panoramic view of the Rocky Mountains.

I’m off to experience the land centuries after Thompson set foot here, where early settlers ventured in order to start a new life. Although life certainly did not come easy for the ranchers. It wasn’t the typical flat prairie life, but instead land which needed to be cleared in order for ranches to be built and cattle and horses to roam. But those who did the work were rewarded. The land was resource rich, there was plenty of wildlife for food, and the aqua blue rivers such as the Panther and the Red Deer were full of fish.

And now, nearly 200 years later, you can still see the roots that were planted. Cowboys and ranchers still line the route from Sundre to Clearwater county. The differences being that today, my foray into this frontier is via a modern chariot and a path that has already been set out.

I am here to learn about Sundre and this frontier in a number of surprising ways.

Sundre Museum and Pioneer Village

The museum and village serve as a reminder to preserve the past. Many of the locals have contributed to the exhibits or to the Historical Society by giving demonstrations of how the ways of the village once were. Visitors can look inside an old school house, a ranger station, a ferryman house, trappers cabin, a chapel, and more in which they keep memories and an archive.

Inside the museum, the artifacts along with the exhibits show a virtual timeline of the town. I learn how the town’s name came to be, named after the early 1900’s postmaster who came here from the Norwegian town of “Søndre”. Once he purchased land, the village adopted the English name of Sundre, and the rest is history.

Painted Warriors

For one morning I was a guest at the Painted Warriors ranch. I was given a tour of the multi-acre property and given an explanation of the various wildlife that wander amongst. I was shown how to live off the land how the locals have done so for hundreds of years. I learned to shoot a bow and arrow (and I quickly find out I have a bit of talent for it). I discovered what plants, or what I would normally think to be merely common weeds, can serve as teas, ointments and food, and a glimpse into how to survive in the wilderness.

Beyond giving tourists a taste of traditional ways, the company also trains aboriginal guides. Tracey, one of the owners and operators explained: “We recognize the need for authentic aboriginal tour guides and we provide training programs that will bring more qualified aboriginal guides forward.”

I tried to retain everything I was taught. I kept track of the various plants and uses for each, especially in teas. I stored away some tricks to starting fires with a flint and steel and tinder fungus and petroleum jelly. And of course I tried to remember all of the techniques Tracey taught me using the bow for my next archery challenge. (Three hours whizzed by and as an avid Alone fan, I quickly inquiried about returning to Painted Warriors to partake in the survival training for being in the wilderness for an extended amount of time.)

Mukwah Rafting

The first explorers to the Sundre and Clearwater regions must have been amazed by the winding pristine rivers. As a fellow Albertan I thought of the Red Deer River as the perfect river to throw a tube in and enjoy a day slowly drift by. I was preparing for such with Mukwah’s Rafting white water expedition as I drove from Sundre out towards where the Panther River meets the Red Deer.

The company’s motto of “Expect the Unexpected” sure held true as I was not expecting the “gnarly” white water and technically class four rapids.

Mukwah, which means bear by the Ojibway tribesman, is seen as the great protector. Ryan and his crew made sure of every precaution and safety measure. The adventure lasted for nearly two hours and had me heeding many commands to try my best to just stay in the raft, motivated not to get plunged into the icy chilled river. We battled rapids curiously named Fluffy Bunny, Moustache Ride and Chainsaw Accident.

And I was fooled by their names, expecting a nonchalant minor thrill and instead greeted with an adrenalin-filled wall of water that tried every which way to toss all of us into the glacier water. We prevailed with huge grins and on the bus ride back to base camp we all chatted about the river condition, which changes almost daily. The melt this year is going to provide some pretty awesome rafting, and if my experience is any indication, Mukwah’s customers are in for some fun-filled afternoons on the Red Deer River.

Ryan has a passion for what he does. Approximately 30 years ago some friends of his dragged him out to give him his first white water experience. Three years later Ryan purchased Mukwah, and 27 years after that, his passion still hasn’t been snuffed. Even the floods of 2013 couldn’t deter him from stopping. He pointed out debris along the river, kilometers from the base where we set off, which once stood on his property. It’s left where it landed as a reminder of the power of mother nature, and it’s only a matter of time until it happens again. But Ryan and his crew have learned to “expect the unexpected,” ride it out, and let the river run its course.

Sunset Guiding

“You see them clouds behind the mountains, we’ll get some rain this afternoon,” Merle said before walking off to get the horses ready.

I stood with Stu trying to see what “clouds” Merle was talking about. Stu explained that Merle doesn’t rely on a forecast from a 4 inch screen. Instead, he lets the mountain speak to him. I had my doubts as the early morning sun beat down. All I could think of was applying enough sunscreen to make sure I was protected while out on our three hour journey.

Merle, the operator of Sunset Guiding for back country horse rides, guided us through pasture into the forest and up the mountain. My trusted steed Snip managed to bring me up the mountain to share the same view that David Thompson must have seen. The Rocky Mountains stood in their glory and we all took time to admire the panorama.

This view is something Merle is used to seeing but says it doesn’t get old. And when it does, he ventures over to another area and finds more trails to explore.

Having the chance to ride these trails as the explorers once did allowed me to see areas not accessible by anyone. It was certainly worth the sore hips to see the true beauty of the region. On the way down I remembered to look up to the sky. Sure enough, the clouds had rolled in and it started to sprinkle. The mountain had spoken, I just didn’t hear it. Maybe if spent a little more time out here I would eventually.

The Evolution

From settlement to village to the now-town of Sundre, a lot has happened since 1909. No longer is Sundre a stop solely for local ranchers and workers. It showcases its history combined with offering a range of establishments that make for a perfect weekend getaway.

The pristine Sundre Golf Club challenges any golfer to keep it on the fairway and not end up in the trees. The ribs, meats and sandwiches from Kodiak BBQ and Deli are delicious and I didn’t have room for dessert with the big portions.

And to work off my meals I wandered through Snake Hill park, exploring trails, often forgetting that I was in the middle of the town.

The biggest draw for me was my ability to get in the truck and drive through pristine wilderness, snapping countless photos along the way. Gravel roads lead along the Red Deer River and brought me to 4,000 hectares of mountain prairies (Ya Ha Tinda).

Wildlife and wild horses seemed to appear from nowhere and aimlessly wander across the road without worry.

I followed the Red Deer River as it wound its way from the Rockies heading east. And I made sure to get out and explore some trails on my own and spend time at Big Horn Falls without another soul around for kilometers.

Sundre and the surrounding country is my kind of place. I’m afraid the secret’s going to get out and next time I won’t be the only one standing at these falls.

Plan Your Trip to Sundre, Alberta

Sundre is 119km north-west of Calgary following the Cowboy Trail (Highway 22). In town, I stayed at the completely upgraded Best Western Mountainview Inn and Suites and apart from being extremely comfortable, I loved that they offered free cookies. When I ventured out to the woods I was a guest at the Sunset Guides and Outfitting in a cozy little rustic cabin. The best part is that there are no cell towers and no one could disturb me. Well, except the bears.