Category: Europe

Imagine waking up every morning in a destination that most people only dream of travelling to. Imagine calling a city that is effortlessly combines history and romance, with a touch of whimsy, your new home.

Delve into the bustling morning rituals of the locals, as they navigate the labyrinth of canals in graceful gondolas, or sip their morning espresso in charming cafés.

Immerse yourself in the vibrant colours and delightful chaos of daily markets, where the tantalizing aromas of fresh Mediterranean seafood and local Italian produce fill the air.

Ah, Venezia. Sometime’s it is impossible to believe that it’s a real city.

To live in Venice, Italy is an exciting endeavour, but it does involve a certain number of steps to consider ahead of time. Here’s a general overview of the process and some key points to keep in mind.

Things To Consider Before You Live in Venice

Research & Planning

Start by conducting general research about how to live in Venice. Learn about the culture, lifestyle, cost of living, transportation, and possibly job opportunities if you want to work.

Consider factors such as language proficiency (Italian is important for daily life), housing options, healthcare, and education if applicable.

We learned about the life of Venetians as a part of our Walks of Italy tour, which also included a gondola ride (the cost of a gondola ride on its own is much more expensive then the cost of this entire tour! Very worth it).

Visa Requirements

As a foreigner, you will typically need a visa to work and live in the city of Venice and the rest of Italy. The type of visa you require will depend on your circumstances, such as employment or study.

You will need to go to the website of the Italian embassy or consulate in your home country to understand the specific visa requirements and gather the necessary documents. You can e mail for more information, and to get assistance with your future planning.

Residence Permit

Once you arrive in Venice with a visa, you must obtain a Permesso di Soggiorno (residence permit) within a specific timeframe. This process involves submitting additional documents, such as proof of accommodation, proof of financial means, health insurance, and a valid visa.

If you are moving with your family, make sure that everyone is covered.

Finding Real Estate in to live in Venice

Venice is known for its fantastic architecture, but to find affordable housing within the floating city can be quite difficult, particularly in the historic centre.

You will need to begin searching for accommodation well in advance and consider exploring the neighbouring areas for more affordable options, even many Venetians that work here prefer to commute into the city. Taking a boat to work? Say no more.

Depending on your budget, renting will likely be easier than trying to buy property to live in Venice, and you may need to visit Venice beforehand to scope things out on foot first.

Where We Stayed in Venice

Finding affordable accommodations to visit the city of Venice can be difficult (and we left it far too late as well, book early)! We found this one to be a bit crowded but a good place for the short time we were there. It was near a bus stop so easy to get into Venice.

Try checking hotels situated on the Venice side streets for more affordable options.

Other options:

High-End Hotel

The incredibly elegant Gritti Palace has unbelievable views of the canal, a great restaurant, and is overall an amazing experience.

Mid-Range Hotel

Hotel Al Codega is a great boutique hotel option where the service feels personalized. It’s located right between St Marks Square and the Rialto Bridge, but is away from the hustle and bustle on the side streets.

Budget Hotel

The hotel keeper at Alloggi Barbaria speaks 7 languages, and would be more than happy to give you a map and tell you how to get around the city. The rooms are simple, but a continental breakfast is offered before you take on the day.

Integration & Language

Embracing the local language and culture in is essential for a smooth transition when moving anywhere. Consider taking Italian classes to help enhance your day to day communication skills, and immerse yourself in the Venetian way of life.

Job Opportunities

If you plan to work in Venice, Italy, research the local job market and understand any specific requirements or qualifications needed in your field. Try networking, online job portals, and contacting local companies to help in securing employment ahead of time.

Length of the Process

The time required for the entire process of live in the city of Venice can vary depending on your home country, such as visa processing times and availability of appointments. You should definitely start the process well in advance, as some steps may take several months to complete.

Expat Community

Venice is a popular destination for tourists and expatriates alike. You will find a diverse community of foreigners, which can provide a support system and you integrate to your new life. Having friends in a new place always makes things a little easier.

While the process of moving to Venice does involve certain logistical challenges, with careful planning and preparation, it is possible to make this dream a reality.

Not that you needed any convincing, but let’s talk abut the unique benefits of living in Venice, Italy. There are more than a few, and might even sway your decision to stay in this enticing destination longer than planned.

Here are some reasons why it can be a wonderful place to live..

Benefits to Live In Venice

Culinary Delights

Italy is known for its exceptional cuisine, and Venice is no exception. Indulge traditional pasta dishes, seafood straight from the Adriatic Sea, delectable gelato, and exquisite wines. Venice offers a culinary journey that will delight foodies and satisfy even the most hard-to-please palates.

Proximity to Other European Destinations

Being in the heart of Europe provides convenient access to explore the rest of the continent, to even jet off to Africa or Asia as ease. Take a short train ride to tour Florence, Rome, or Milan, or perhaps venture a bit further to experience the nearby wonders of Austria, Slovenia, or Croatia.

Venice, Italy is located at the doorstep of Europe, and the rest of the world.

The Culture of Venice

The local culture of Venice boasts magnificent landmarks like St. Mark’s Basilica, Piazza San Marco, Doge’s Palace, The Grand Canal, and the Rialto Bridge. Living in the floating city allows you to immerse yourself in this vibrant cultural tapestry, surrounded by masterpieces of art and centuries of captivating stories.

There will be something new to learn every day in this lagoon city.

Unique Lifestyle

The Venetian lifestyle, even compared to the rest of Italy, is undeniably distinctive and captivating. It invites you to embrace a slower pace, relishing in the simple joys of leisurely strolls, savouring mouthwatering Italian cuisine, and delighting in refreshing aperitivos by the water’s edge.

The close-knit neighbourhoods and tight-knit community foster a warm and inviting ambiance, making you feel right at home in this unique city.

Cultural Events and Festivals

Venice hosts an array of cultural events and festivals unlike any other throughout the year. From the renowned Venice Carnival with its elaborate masks and costumes to the Venice Biennale, one of the world’s most prestigious art exhibitions, you will never lack something to celebrate.

Our Experience

In our unique situation of being homeless for more than five years, I expect that we look at most destinations differently than other tourists in that we sometimes value a place based on our desire to live there. And being the rose-rimmed people that we are, the answer is often yes (at least for a short term). There are rarely places that we don’t like and write off immediately.

But to put the city of Venice under such a microscope is a tough one. All the extraordinary things that make the city a wonder for tourists may also be that which makes it unbearable as a resident.

The island poses many confusing contradictions: a slower pace with the lack of cars, yet home to such a thriving tourism industry that the tiny streets become clogged with millions of annual visitors.

The canals, adorned with vibrant old-world buildings that appear to float on them, cause heartless humidity and highlight its obvious fragility. Venice is sinking, some say at up to a rate of almost eight inches every century and flooding is a regular occurrence.

The island is sinking and the population is shrinking. There are less than 60,000 people living in the city, and more than that many step off of cruise ships each day to snap selfies, buy souvenirs from the shops, and be on their way. And it’s not likely that those souvenirs are even in support of the artists who live there, but instead are cheap knock-offs imported from the east. Venice’s economy is almost entirely dependent on the mass tourism, but struggles to find balance with it.

While only a couple of kilometres wide, it can take up an hour to cross the small island, given the maze of tiny streets and bridges. Food is much more expensive than on the mainland, plus the groceries, and any other purchase for that matter, are most often lugged in shoulder bags from market to home. Bicycles are allowed only for children.

I would suppose that to enjoy living in Venice would be to accept it as a challenging lifestyle and a specific way of life. After awhile, it would all likely seem very normal, similar to how this vagabond lifestyle has become for us.

I expect it would be worth it (especially for being able to see this best view in Venice on the daily). Not only is Venice the pure definition of romance (maybe even moreso than any other place we’ve ever visited), and any place that requires rowing as a livable skill would be acceptable by us.

(For a little while, at least, which is our answer almost every time we pose this question. Venice, Italy is a bit of a “thinker” though.)

So, now that you are armed with all of the knowledge to begin the steps to move to Italy, and you know all of the reason you will love living there, the only question is when do you leave?

Venice beckons you to embark on a life filled with beauty, culture, and unforgettable experiences.

It’s not just a dream—it can be your reality.

Before we arrived in Romania my idea of their typical cuisine was meat and potatoes. I expected that vegetables were pretty much non-existent in Romanian food and finding a good salad would be a challenge.

I was half right. Meat is definitely a big part of Romanian food, and they really know how to do meat right. Starches are served with every meal. Salads were a challenge, at least ones without cabbage in them, but not impossible to find.

So what did we eat?

soup

Bean soup (pictured left) is a staple in Romania. It is prepared differently in various regions throughout the country, but the concept is similar: stick-to-the-bones-soul-food. My favourite variation was in Bucharest, prepared with bacon and vegetables and served in a bread bowl. While in Sinca Noua more we savoured a chicken noodle soup and a pork rib and vegetable soup (bones still in) as a starter to every meal.

meat

The Romanians know meat, especially sausage. Upon visiting numerous traditional Romanian restaurants we usually found a whole section dedicated to sausages alone. The most common being mici (pronounced michi) which is a finger sized grilled mince meat sausage, usually consisting of beef mixed with pork and sheep, and then heavily spiced with garlic, pepper and paprika. These are quite common in street food stalls accompanied with a pint of beer. Menus will have easy items such as pork and chicken schnitzels, and for the more adventurous eaters the Romanians embrace the “whole animal” concept. We found brains, testicles and other parts of the pig on the menu and we put it to ourFacebook fans to decide which one I would try. The testicles pictured above won out – they were quite tasty but a little chewy.

typical meals

Typical Romanian food consists of a meat and a carb. Sarmale (pictured upper left, better known as cabbage rolls) is one of Dalene’s favourite meals and very typical throughout the country and entire region. A pilaf (bottom left) with tomatoes, carrots, onions and dill, and mashed potatoes soaked in butter (bottom right) is also popular. On another occasion I enjoyed a blended grilled meat dish served in a phylo pastry bowl to absorb all the juices from the meat.

Pizza is also very common throughout Romania – in some towns your only restaurant choices will be Romanian and a pizza joint. Although it is no Italy, the pie is generally cheap and tasty. The menus also have sauces on the side (tomato and spicy) and are recommended as generally the sauce is spread thin on the dough.

side dishes

Potatoes, polenta, rice. One thing to be aware of when ordering food in a Romanian restaurant is that main dishes do not come with sides. Peasant potatoes (pictured left) was one of our favourite side dishes and how could it not be? Pan fried potatoes with big chunks of bacon and onions. Polenta is also a very popular Romanian side dish and it is served in various ways, the most common being mamaliga, topped with cheese and sour cream (pictured top right) or with traditional cheese baked inside (middle right). One thing is for sure, ordering one of these side dishes with our meal meant that we never left the restaurant feeling hungry.

Salads generally consisted of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and or cabbage. While we ordered a salad with every meal after a couple weeks our bodies were craving green veggies.

Our last city in Romania was Sibiu where we managed to find an incredible salad (bottom left). Topped with goat cheese, hazelnuts and an assortment of fresh vegetables with a vinaigrette glaze, it was a nice change from the heavy Romanian food.

desserts and sweets

Known as the Romanian donut, Gogosi is pan fried dough tossed with icing sugar. Dalene had the chance to make these with the family during our stay in Sinca Noua and learned the secret ingredient of lemon zest in the dough to give it just a hint of citrus.

We had expected to see dumplings on menus as side dishes or mains, but surprisingly we only found them in the dessert sections topped with fruit or chocolate.

Upon leaving Sinca Noua, our host family gave us a bag of cozonac for the journey. This light pound cake did not last the journey.

drink

I was shocked how much I enjoyed Romanian beer. I was expecting typical lager type brews with not much variety. Instead I found there are some very nice dark beers and best of all, very cheap. The dark beers I enjoyed were Ursus Black and Silva. Dalene enjoyed the Ursus Lemon which is a low alcohol percentage radler type beer, refreshing on a hot day.

Romania has mastered the art of lemonade. Every restaurant offers it freshly squeezed and some even put there creative spins on the beverage. From basic mint to mixed berries we tried all sorts of blends.

Palinka is a double distilled product with an alcohol percentage between 40-70% and is made from fermented plums. It is found all throughout Romania and we both think that this might be the secret to the long life of the Romanians.

Another popular liquor, vișinată or visne is made by mixing fermented sour cherries with sugar and vodka. The quality of the drink highly depends on the quality of the fruit and it is why it is recommended that the fruit be hand picked. After the 100 days the fruit is filtered out leaving a smooth syrupy goodness.

overall

Our impression of what Romanian food would be like was not far off. Heavy, simple meals consisting mainly of meat and carbs which are intended to stick to one’s bones. We enjoyed most of the food, but were excited to find a green leafy salad after a month.

While we stayed over a month, we definitely didn’t get a chance to try it all, and a Romanian menu is a diverse one.

As first time visitors to Paris, we knew exactly what to do.

We had to hit all the big sights: see the tower, cruise the river, stand under the Arc. Yes, we were “those” tourists.

But tourist-y places are tourist-y for a reason…because they are awesome. And yes, we were crawling over hundreds of other people to get the shot we wanted, but without cursing or faulting any single one of them.

It’s Paris! It deserves to be fully adored…

It is difficult to put words to the romance that Paris inspires. Perhaps we just need one.

It is not often, during this nomadic journey of ours, where we both 100% agree on places we could see ourselves settling in for awhile.

This may not be obvious to our regular readers as we often spout love for the destinations we visit. But, let’s be honest, travel is awesome. There are very rare occasions of our meeting a place that we don’t like. We’re glass-half-full people and it is pretty hard to disappoint us (with some exceptions).

But Poland, oh Poland. We became smitten with you in the north, what with your orgasmic pierogies in Gdynia, your very friendly residents, and your BEACHES. Who knew you had such gorgeous beaches?

Then we arrived in Warsaw, and while we typically aren’t big fans of larger cities, we felt very at home. We pained at the history, of Warsaw and its citizens being ravaged in WWII, but were encouraged by the outgoing friendliness of the residents. And while the historic downtown suffered a similar fate to Gdańsk – being completely destroyed and built back up – none of the appeal is lost. If anything, it is an enlightening example of the enduring power of the human spirit, to be able to persevere and completely reassemble a city from chaos and destruction.

Warsaw is almost one quarter green space, and the parks are something to behold. Lavish fountains, former palaces as museums, ample places to escape from the city without escaping from the city.

Every few stops on the tram seemed to open us up to an entirely new environment – across the river in Stara Praga were buildings not destroyed in the wars but still standing, some riddled with bullet holes. The style of Soviet realism is most apparent with arching blocks of massive buildings in the aptly coined area of Plac Hipstera (and still the odd neon sign). The neighbourhood of Saska Kepa appears the most liveable of all, with wide, inviting streets dotted with local shops. Each community far from the standard tourist eye, yet begging to be explored.

And even though it’s a bit more expensive than other parts of Poland, it is still very cheap by European standards. Like, ridiculously so (I can’t believe more travellers aren’t here, especially given that there are so many things to do in Warsaw).

After ten days, we found ourselves looking at apartment rentals (but deeply scorning Schengen visa rules – why do you not want us Europe?) There are few places where we could see ourselves abiding long(ish) term – and Warsaw has become one of them.

Poland continues to amaze us. A quick day trip from Gdansk would bring us to the Malbork Castle of Knights, one of the biggest brick castles in Poland and the world! It’s another thing or place in our travels here to surprise us about this area of northern Poland: it is home to the largest castle in the world (by surface area).

Visiting the Malbork Castle of Knights

The Malbork Castle was built by the Teutonic Knights and completed in 1406 after the conquest of Old Prussia. It is a dominating presence on the banks of the Nogat River, having been expanded several times to accommodate the number of knights who resided there. It soon became the largest fortified Gothic building in Europe.

Throughout history, the castle has been a residence of the Polish Kings, used for barracks for the Prussian army, and as a destination for a pilgrimage for the Hitler Youth and League of German Girls.

After WWII, the castle again became a part of Poland and was reconstructed and restored after the damages of the war and a fire in 1959. The Malbork Castle now stands as the largest brick building in Europe.

How to Visit the Malbork Castle

Getting There

Visiting the Malbork Castle is easiest as a day trip from Gdansk. The castle is just over 50 km away from Gdansk, and trains are the easiest option. They frequently depart from Gdansk Glowny station, which takes between 45 and 60 minutes. The Regio trains are the cheapest but slowest, while InterCity (IC) trains offer a faster option for a slightly higher price. Once arriving at Malbork station, a leisurely 20-minute walk will take you directly to the castle.

Alternatively, you can drive to the castle in about thirty minutes, or some taxis will take you directly there.

Admission and Tickets

There are several options for admission to Malbork Castle.

Admission to the Malbork Castle is free on Mondays. Note that only the Green Route is available, and a guide or audio guide fee of PLN 15.00 applies and is mandatory.

Historical Route

Availability: Tuesday – Sunday from 9:00 am – 4:00 pm (last entrance at 1 pm)

This tour of the entire castle includes the price of a mandatory guide.

• Normal ticket – PLN 70.00
• Family ticket (2 adults + 2 children under 18) – PLN 220.00

Green route

The Green Route tour includes: part of the Outer Bailey, gate passages, courtyards of the Middle and High Castle, the chapel of St. Anne, terraces with the garden of the great masters, moat and zwinger. It does not include visits to chambers and exhibitions.

Availability: Monday, 9:00 am – 4:00 pm / Tuesday – Sunday, 1:15 pm – 4:00 pm (last admission at 2:30 pm)

• Normal ticket – PLN 30.00
• Family ticket (2 adults + 2 children under 18) – PLN 90.00

Photography, like any form of art, can at once be both wondrous and cruel.

Wondrous because it helps seize the essence of any one moment for all eternity. And also cruel because it helps seize the essence of any one moment for all eternity. Upon reviewing the photos following a trip, those captured moments can make us both wish so desperately for a return that it burns.

It’s been over a year since we boarded the flight bound for our six week project in Costa Brava. The project, in partnership with our friend Sherry, was to traverse the region and create photography guides of the most captivating spots.

The project itself had us enthralled – chasing optimal light through narrow cobblestone streets of five endearing towns in the region. There were lanes still marked with grooves from the carts that followed the horses which pulled them in medieval times. We climbed towers and walls for their vantage points below, and frequented many markets to take in all the seasonal colours.

Following our six week stay, the difficult task began of narrowing down thousands of photos. Then there was carefully mapping out the logical routes, editing the images, the text, and of course designing the books. And as we did so, over the long months it took to produce the final result, we were forced to face each one with more longing than the one before.

It was our second visit to the region, and it really began to feel like home. Dalene forced back tears on our last day there (and as she says: I would have shed a few too, except for all my manly manliness).

But finally, the barbarous work is done. And now you are able to take the same medieval journey that we did. We’ve done all the legwork. The guides will not only show you the best photos to take in these towns, but also will inform you of the best time of day to visit, what camera settings to use, the best selfie spots, which winding street to take to find some secret gems, and even where to stop for gelato in between shots.

Girona

Take our guide for what it is – a guide. We spent a lot of time in this city and developed six different photo walks. Our guides to Girona include:

• Vistas and Viewpoints
• Along the Onyar River
• Old Town and Jewish Quarter
• Markets
• Gardens, Parks and Cloisters
• Game of Thrones Filming Locations

We would be remiss if we told you to only follow every step and not take this alluring city all in on your own. Get lost aimlessly wandering the cobblestone streets with your camera in tow. You will always be grounded by the cathedral that stands tall over all of Girona. Start there.

This antiquated city is so well preserved that the hit HBO show Game of Thrones filmed season six within the walls of Girona. And we were lucky enough to be there for premiere night and took full advantage – we even got to sit on the real Iron Throne! Through some locals we met we were able to put together a guide of the spots which appeared in season 6 of the show and tried to show the true view versus the fabricated ‘show shot’.

Besalú

Thirty minutes from Girona is the town of Besalú. The bridge is the first thing any new visitor will notice leading to the walled historic centre. There are many unique angles and little surprises to take throughout the town. The walk itself takes only 1.5 hours but count on being caught up for a couple more by the sidewalk cafes and shops.

We had the chance to visit the historic Jewish baths, but we could only do so with a guide, so to view these be sure to check with the tourist office.

Castelló d’Empúries

What was once an important trading post is now a quiet medieval town in the Costa Brava countryside. The castle and old town is surrounded by a moat on one side of the city. There are a number of ways to wander into the old town and the cobblestone roads lead us to the very well preserved Basilica de Santa Maria.

Peratallada

Peratallada is considered to the be one of the most beautiful medieval villages in Catalonia and is a popular day trip for locals. The village protected with walls around the exterior and a moat no longer filled with water but still deep. Inside the walls are roads only for walking and are still original, evidenced by the cart wheel grooves. There is a castle in the centre of town, which at one point was a hotel but has since locked its doors and is no longer accessible. It’s recommended to walk slowly around the village taking your time. Watch how the light and shadows will change throughout and most of all stop to enjoy the variety of cafes and restaurants and a slow paced lifestyle.

Tossa de Mar

Tossa de Mar is one of the most photogenic destinations we’ve ever visited. The walled town is perched on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. From the beach we were able to walk along the walls and explore all the hidden corners in the old town. Arrive early in the morning to claim your spot on the empty beach, but expect by 10am the beach to be busy. Tossa de Mar is also a popular spot along the Camino de Ronda and following the path to the top of the hill offers amazing views back of the towers and surrounding beaches.

It’s difficult not to be enamoured by the beauty of Costa Brava. The region is so incredibly photogenic and creating these guides was not an easy task due to having to select from the thousands of photographs which both Sherry and I made.

And it was a cruel task, but we now pass that onto you. Enjoy capturing the photos, but try not to be too haunted by longing when you leave.

While in Tirana, we came upon a clock tower just east of Skanderberg Square. Our first instinct, as always, was to find a way up it, longing for photos of the square we could get from above. There was no one manning the door so we turned to a tiny gallery just beside it, poked our heads in, and asked the single employee if she knew how we could get inside. She reached for a set of keys on the wall just beside her and we made our way back to the tower. In a few seconds we were climbing the dusty stairs to the top. We had entered without any payment, only giving the tower’s keeper the promise that we would close the door on our way out.

A few shards of broken glass were scattered on the narrow platform at the top. We circled it to check angles for light and view, snapped a dozen photos, and then just stood soaking in the busy street scenes below, staying much longer than we ever intended.

It’s in these moments where we find such pleasure as travelers – relishing in the discovery of those places that seem so deliciously secretive. Just us, right there, right then.

In Berat, we found another keeper.The town of a thousand windows is one of Albania’s two UNESCO sites and a relatively popular destination for tourists. (Consider though, that the word “popular” must be applied extremely loosely – we were the only two foreigners on our bus from Tirana and we saw only a handful of others.) Our frequent strolls were met with stares and odd looks, perhaps the familiarity of our faces being a factor given the endurance of our presence. While the highlights of this compact city can easily be seen in one day, we stayed for three.

Berat is a tiny city, but one that we enjoyed walking many times over, up onto the cramped cobbles between hillside homes, navigating the slick mossy steps and stopping for photos of the odd bright door amidst the repeated walls of off-white. On one outing I got caught up in a complex conversation of hand gestures with an elderly woman peddling various jellies and pomegranate wine, and she expertly succeeded in getting me to pay far too much for a recycled soda bottle of the latter. (I have developed a distressing indifference to adorable children selling their wares – knowing that making a purchase does more harm than good – but I can never resist a cute grandma.)

But it was further up the rocky hill to Berat Castle where we met Toni. The cost to enter the castle was minimal, and after we paid it, Toni offered us an exclusive tour for ten euros more. Knowing nothing of what we were about to see and skeptical of how much information would be on display inside, we accepted.Thankfully we did, because Toni had the keys.

“People call me the king of the castle,” Toni said, “but that’s just not true. I’ve lived here all of my life, so I have a set of keys.”

Constructed mainly in the 13th century, the fortress has sustained a considerable amount of damage over the years but still remains a formidable sight given the elevated location and characteristics of its architecture. Even past conquerors and tyrants, acknowledging its importance, sometimes chose to leave it unharmed (the Ottomans, for example, destroyed many churches throughout the country but left some in Berat).

And it was at those churches where Toni pulled out his keys to remove the padlocks that barred the doors. Light filtered in to illuminate the vibrant frescoes and delicately patterned floors inside the tiny buildings. Those of which may have been no more remarkable than any others we have seen, but I believe the covert nature of our viewing them made the hues brighter and the details more intricate.

At Toni’s insistence, we were allowed to take photos, but not share them publicly. So instead we share this collection from around the fortress, which also still has a population and tiny economy within its walls.

There are few places left in the world, and even fewer in Europe, that offer such spectacularly fresh experiences with no formal tourist-herding control in place. I expect that Berat and Albania won’t be this way for long – soon the keepers will be replaced by turnstiles and visitors will no longer have the luxury of ample space and time.

For those of you with even an inkling of wanting to travel to Albania, now would be the time to do it.

where we stayed

We stayed at one of the highest rated hotels in town with a perfect location right on the boulevard (for an unbelievably low price). We were comfortable and very well taken care of at the White City Hotel.

We fancied ourselves big adventurers by booking an extended stay in Albania. Few people we know have traveled through this little known Balkan country before, and tourism information on the internet is relatively scarce. Concerned for our business while traveling there, we asked others about wifi and they said good not great. Roads and accessibility of transportation were also said to be concerns.

But we had such a gentle introduction to the country via the capital city of Tirana that it took a drive through the Gjerë mountains in the south a week later to make us feel even the slightest anxiety, and that was only because we were literally driving on the steep edge of a windy road. I thought back to the driver who brought us into the city from the airport on the first night – he gave us a bit of a tour and referred to the universities we passed as supermarkets, because of the apparent ease in which degrees could be bought.

I looked at the sagging, curvy bridge ahead at one hairpin turn and nervously thought: I hope that the engineers who designed this road obtained the earned degree and not the purchased one.

We arrived over the mountain queasy but in one piece, our total load a smidgen lighter than when we started thanks to the man two seats ahead who emptied the contents of his stomach into a blue plastic bag and tossed it out the window.

“What do you know about my country?” our driver asked as we departed the airport.

We’ve been embarrassed by this question before, entering a new country with barely a clue of its history or what to expect. This is a decided strategy – we prefer to arrive with a completely fresh perspective – but when this question is asked we scramble to answer respectfully.

“Very little,” I admitted, “we know some about the problems in the 90s. But we are here to learn.” I quickly changed the subject to issue broad compliments of the reported beauty of the Albanian Riviera and of the welcoming nature of his countrymen. He didn’t answer.

Albania’s narrative is one of the most sordid in recent European history. The dictator Enver Hoxha, in power for over 40 years starting from the end of the second world war, closed off this small country to the world. Within, Hoxha industrialized the country, brought rapid economic growth and focused on eliminating illiteracy and becoming self-sufficient. In many ways, he was successful. But he also forcefully exterminated his competition, issued the death penalty freely, and shut off the country from the rest of the world (some liken it to modern North Korea).

Symbolic of a paranoid dictator, Hoxha also sunk much of the country’s resources into a nonsensical “bunkerisation” program, building over 700,000 concrete bunkers scattered across the country to provide protection against what he believed was an inevitable invasion by the west. They were never used as intended and now stand as a bizarre reminder of a dark past. But as one Albanian joked on one of our Instagram photos, they are now the best equipped country in the world for an alien invasion. Indeed.

Problems did not end with Hoxha’s death in 1985. As the country began to liberalize while lifting the covers of Communism, rebellious conflicts flared repeatedly in the 90s due to widespread government corruption that crippled the economy. Gangs took advantage of the volatility, the mafia funded their interests, and the arms that Hoxha had outfitted citizens with throughout the years were put to use. Thousands died and the UN entered in 1997 to stabilize.Relative peace has been fostered in Albania since. And although the country is not without remaining complicated problems, the economy is getting back on track and signs of growth can be seen everywhere. In some ways it is a country working to catch up with the rest of the world, yet in other surprising ways it is miles ahead. Radical pushes have been made in government for better representation by women, and whether it is due to complete indifference or overall benevolence, Albania is lauded as the most religious-tolerant nation in Europe. But then there is the woeful sight of strewn garbage in open spaces (we’re not talking Peru levels of garbage, but enough to be terribly disappointing), and the fact that finding our way via public transportation was confusing with the lack of any formal stations for buses.

Thankfully we were never confused for long. The Albanians we met, especially in Tirana, went far out of their way to ensure that we were welcomed and taken care of. All we had to do was ask, and we were quickly steered and shepherded around the city without hesitation. We put our trust into a lot of random people to get us to random places, and our trust was never misplaced.

And then they did even more. Our first few outings saw us receive free sorbet, a slice of birthday cake to share from a neighbouring table at dinner, and an impromptu tour from a local we met in Skanderberg Square. But the best part about it was when we gushed our gratitude, their collective response made us wonder if we had stumbled upon a most endearing national tradition.

One hand on the heart, and a gracious tip of the head. A sweet and intimate gesture always accompanied by a sincere smile.

“I don’t agree with our National History Museum,” our driver from the first night also said as we drove past the large building anchored on the main square, emblazoned with a beautifully intricate mural of proud citizens in arms, defending their country throughout the years. “Not all the history is in there. We are not all about war, we’ve had good times too.” Sadly though, it is those warring images from the 90s that prevent people from visiting, despite the rave reviews coming from big name travel publications. Albania has recently being awarded all the fancy travel cliches including Europe’s last hidden gem and best kept secret.

It took us little time to assert the same platitudes thanks in large part to the hospitality of the people, and because the country overall has the appeal of the unpolished and undiscovered. We want to know more about how and why, we want to poke around in most every corner. And it feels like we would be welcomed to do so – without question we always felt completely safe and comfortable.

Our biggest concerns about our visit were quickly dismissed: the wifi across the country was better than what we had in Berlin a week prior, much work has been done to improve infrastructure on main routes, and English-speakers are plentiful. Tirana itself is bustling but very congenial – it does not hold the outer beauty of many other European capitals and its traffic is sometimes nightmarish, but it is manageable in size and carries affable and youthful energy. And despite the odd sagging bridge and tight corner without guards on that windy mountain road, we were surprised at how smooth our journeys were from one point to another. Any pause for construction or potholes were made up for by the engaging views out our window – from the snow-capped peaks to the crystal green of rivers, even the variety of stuffed animals hanging from front porches in peculiar superstition. For Albania, one more cliche holds forcefully true: the journey really is the destination.

We saw so few other tourists. Given the time of year, it is understandable (we learned quickly that when it is off-season, it is truly off-season – many attractions we wanted to see were inaccessible), but it is clear that that won’t last for long. From the allure of the remote Accursed Mountains in the north, to the ancient ruins from the Greeks, Romans and Ottomans, and the pure white beaches of the south, Albania touts a wealth of beguiling attractions just waiting to be sought out.

And throughout our month-long stay, we learned that you don’t need to be a big adventurous type to do so either.

where we stayed

We stopped in Tirana three times on our journey and enjoyed our stays at both the Hotel Vile e Arte and Center Rooms Oresti. Both are very good value and near to the center (Skanderberg Square) – the Oresti had slightly nicer rooms and the Vila e Arte had slightly better breakfast. Take your pick!

I stood back armed with cameras while Pete made his way to the base of what would be a tower of humans. He placed his hands on the shoulders of a stranger in front of him and spread his legs slightly to anchor his feet and allow for more force to be applied forward.

He would tell me later that he was told not to look up and to just push. Was he pushing too hard? Or not hard enough? he wondered as the entire base (called a pinya) began to lean in.

I moved in until I was right behind Pete, and even though I was not directly a part of it, the intensity was arresting. The hush was broken only by heavy breathing and ardent calling of instructions by the captain. Inside the base, dozens of faces were pressed into dozens of backs, and in the middle, arms were outstretched to support the second layer of humans, who would support six more layers above them.

Each body held a purpose. The larger the pinya, the more weight the human tower can sustain and the higher it can rise. Both Pete and I were surprised by how smoothly and quickly the assembly occurred, as more people climbed over others to make another layer. The size of the ascending humans decreased the higher the tower rose until the final person to clamber to the top was a small girl who couldn’t have been more than six years old. She expeditiously chose her path of least resistance to the top. Once there, she raised her arm and four fingers to represent the Catalonian flag, crossed over, and came back down the other side. At the bottom, she lept into the captain’s arms, was set onto the thick mats that lined the floor, and received high fives as she strutted back to the waiting area. She was the rock star, and she knew it.

It was after 10pm when this group of hundreds, Team Marrecs de Salt, the largest in Girona, finally disbanded for the night. They had erected over a dozen tower formations in a couple of hours of practice, never the same one twice, and waiting outside for them was a line of grills that had been cooking their dinner. The group was jovial and loud.

“My whole family is involved,” Ona told us. At 22 years old, she had been a part of a castell team for 10 years. Her parents balked at letting her join but she would not relent until they did. Later her entire family became members of the local group in the small city of Olot. “It takes up a lot of time so it is good to do it together,” she said. Ona is now on her own, attending university in Girona, but sought out a team as soon as she arrived.

The excitement is what keeps her involved. “There is always adrenaline – even if you aren’t going up. You see a lot of people crying at the end because it’s something that you have worked hard on. People spend their whole lives doing this and it can be very emotional. It’s a sense of pride.”

“People spend their whole lives doing this and it can be very emotional. It’s a sense of pride.”

Ona is quite small in stature and can play a variety of roles. We saw her up on the third row in one tower, but sometimes she is also in the pinya, which was a surprise to us as she seemed too tiny to hold much weight on top. When in the base, she wedges herself in under a bigger person’s armpit to provide support, like a crutch.

There is an unmistakable intimacy about the whole experience and a story to be told about its contribution to society as a whole. Hundreds of would-be strangers, smushed together so that air barely exists between them, all with the common purpose to rise up. The first documented castell dates back to the early 18th century but gained popularity in the 1960s and 70s, when Franco’s dictatorship was instead trying to suppress such cultural activities. When he died, the towers returned in full force. In the 1980s, women were allowed to participate for the first time; their presence is credited with the ability to build lighter and stronger towers that can now reach greater heights. Symbolism abounds.

And it’s not even for competition that these large teams exist, except for within themselves, to execute the towers cleanly, safely, and on time to the music that plays for them. Although there is one big competition called the Concurs de Castells that runs every two years in Tarragona; it is a judged event where teams are awarded points based on difficulty, height, and ability to follow protocol. Otherwise, you will find teams prepping for events like the flower festival in Girona, which is where we saw the Marrecs de Salt perform next.

At the flower festival the following weekend, several team members recognized us from the practice. We weaved among them with our cameras in tow, eager to capture their full performance. They all looked different to us now; their dress for the occasion included standard white pants, a blue button-up top, and a black faixa, a thick and long sash wrapped tightly around each of their waists.

The standard clothing serves a variety of functions. The faixa is critical for back support, to hold clothing in place so that skin never slides on skin, and to give climbers something to grab and step on as they climb up and down. Often you’ll see shirt collars clamped between teeth of those within the tower; not only does it help assure no skin-on-skin, but the biting is said to also relieve some pressure on the temples created by enduring the weight of those above.

Other teams vary in colors, but all follow the same premise. Around us were shirts of maroon and others of orange. The other teams had their own towers to build, but on the particularly high ones, they all came together to support each other.

Even though Pete nor I were a part of the official pinya this time, we were right there and could feel it all. And nothing was quite as special as the celebrations that came after the castells were complete. All of the teams together, young and old, big and small, praising their accomplishments and lauding a unique part of their Catalonian culture.

how to do it

Besides the competition in Tarragona every couple of years – you can watch castells at most major festivals across Spain. Consider contacting teams directly to get their individual schedules!

In Girona during an event for the Fires de San Narcís (November 1st of each year, celebrating Girona’s patron saint), you can catch the human towers actually climbing the steps of the cathedral.

Greece.

When people mention the country, I naturally think of big blue skies, vibrant teal waters, and white pearled cities dotting the landscapes. After spending nearly three weeks island hopping and digging into lesser-known spots, I discovered that it’s the sort of place that slowly grips and takes hold of you, making you wish you never had to leave.

But how do you decide where to go on your trip to Greece, and how do you pick an island to travel to? Literally, you can just pick one (there are 6,000+) of them, and you’ll be sure to find something special. There are many good reasons why millions flock to the touristy spots of Mykonos or Santorini each year and why Mediterranean cruises featuring Greece are also so popular.

Needless to say, these masses of people were not what I was looking for, and fortunately, there are ways to avoid them: travel in the shoulder season, find lesser-visited areas, and book something offbeat, or as I did, find an operator who offers carefully-considered tours that allow you to get a taste of a few islands.

I was looking for an intimate experience without much hassle. Booking a Greece Sailing Adventure with Club Adventures gave me offbeat experiences, but also, a loose itinerary allowed me time to explore on my own. What I wanted from my journey to Greece was to capture the islands through my lens, eat some incredible food and get a better understanding, albeit just a taste of what life was truly like on a number of the Cyclades islands.

Culture, History and Civilization

Wisdom begins in wonder.

Socrates

There really is no way to get through Greece without stepping upon ancient ruins. Whether it’s the Acropolis in Athens, Apollo’s Gate in Naxos, or the archeological ruins of Skarkos on the island of Ios, I found myself immersed in ancient civilizations. They drew me in, created an itch to learn more, and offered an understanding of the varied layers that exist throughout the country.

The Landscape of Greece

Greece was a muse. It inspired creativity in magical ways that I can’t even begin to understand or explain.

Joe Bonamassa

Unbeknownst to me was the variety of landscapes throughout the islands. White sand beaches against aqua waters, ragged peaks and rolling hills dotted with white orthodox churches, rows upon rows of ancient olive and lemon trees, and sea cliffs that triggered chills down any spine as waves crashed into them far below.

Greek Food

There is no sincerer love than the love of food.

George Bernard Shaw

If there’s one firm reason to go to Greece (if I haven’t convinced you already), it’s for the food. Olives, fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, cheese, you name it. There’s a reason the Greek diet is considered to be one of the healthiest in the world. It’s always fresh from the sea or the earth, and it’s been prepared the same way for generations.

Apart from loving every meal I consumed, I particularly appreciated that there’s always yogurt (not the shitty skim milk crap littered on the shelves in North America) with every meal. The full fat, unflavoured, minimal ingredient, as-it-should-be yogurt. They use it for breakfast, lunch, supper, and desserts and I loved it.

The Famous Greece Sunsets and Sunrises

Let every dawn be to you as the beginning of life, and every setting sun be to you as its close.

John Ruskin

As a photographer, catching a sunset is easy. It’s the task of getting up for sunrise that requires work and dedication.

So it was easy on the last night the group would be together. We grabbed a few bottles of Santorini’s finest Asyrtiko wine and found a terrace to watch the final moments of light from the day. We gathered around and toasted what was an incredible journey. And we weren’t alone. A wedding was celebrated on one side of our restaurant, and an engagement was held on the other.

We knew we were somewhere special.

We knew we were somewhere special. And it wasn’t only Santorini. Whether we were atop Lycabetus Hill in Athens, at Apollo’s gate on Naxos, at a lighthouse on the rocky cliffs of Ios, or with the thousands of people lining the terraces of Fira, they always took your breath away.

Weeks have passed and I’m left dreaming about the Isles of Greece. I recently rewatched the Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown episode on Naxos and reflected on his words:

“The pressures of the outside world I don’t want to think about. I’m on a Greek Island here, it’s a beautiful day, I’m planning on passing out on the beach, snorkeling, you know maybe some water colours, do a little cooking, more napping, eating, napping, contemplate mysteries of the universe, or nap, either one, or eat cheese, all of those are honorable options. I mean that’s vacation to me: staying put and doing nothing.”

Anthony Bourdain

I have but one thought. I need to get back.

Where to Stay in Greece

No matter what Greek island you travel to, there are always fantastic places to stay. Here are some of the hotels we stayed at and enjoyed on our travels.

Plaka Hotel (Athens)

Plaka Hotel is one of the best hotels to stay at when visiting Athens. It’s 5 minutes away from Syntagma Square, and has a rooftop patio with a view of the Acropolis that can’t be beat.

Cavo Tagoo Santorini (Santorini)

When staying in Santorini, THIS is the place to splurge on a place to stay. The Cavo Tagoo Santorini, is where to do it. The views from the rooms and pool terraces are incredible, the staff is very friendly and accomodating, and the rooms are very spacious and comfortable. If you want luxury, this is what you will get, and you won’t regret it.

Almiriki Naxos Beachside Living (Naxos)

Mere steps to the beach lies Almiriki Naxos Beachside Living. Pamper yourself on our favourite island in Greece by staying here. The rooms are clean, comfortable and spacious, and the hotel has it’s own beach chairs so we could relax in the sun. It’s close to many restaurants and breakfast is included here.

Dionysos Seaside Resort Ios (Ios)

Located right on Mylopotas Beach, Dionysos Seaside Resort on Ios is a lovely place to stay. The food is incredible as many of the ingredients are grown in the resort’s garden. The staff are more than accommodating and extremely friendly, and the rooms are spacious and comfortable. Best of all, they have a tennis court for their guests!