On our first day in Montenegro, we sat on a patio in the main square of the old town of Kotor. We were under the central clock at the main gate where a glimpse of the harbour could be seen just beyond. We sipped on fluffy coffees and watched tourists pour in and out, stopping to take photos of the clock, the square, the gate, anything clickable in the scene around us.We looked at each other and said it without saying it: we kinda missed Albania.
But we had left it so abruptly. We had plans to stay the entire month, had never initially fathomed heading north to Montenegro, but as the weeks wore on and we realized we were too early in the year to see everything we wanted, we made a change in plans. We enjoyed our three weeks on the Albanian Riviera but we were restless.
And most of all, we were craving mountains. Which Albania has, but which were covered in snow still, only accessible via roads that weren’t exactly good even in drier conditions.
And so we headed north. To the mountains.
We spent most of our time around Kotor Bay and a few days in Budva – the latter was a place that we barely enjoyed preferring instead the far more photogenic Kotor and all the activities within. There we were nestled in between mountain peaks on the edge of the bay, with far fewer people around and more to do. We hiked up to the Kotor fortifications (Pete even did so twice), up the other side, and even managed a 20km paddle on kayak out to the small town of Perast and the small islands that sit in front.
For us lovers of mountains and being on the water, Kotor is basically a small slice of heaven.
From a climb up to the fortifications.
From our paddle out to Perast.
where we stayed
We first stayed for a few days in Kotor Old Town but realized that spending a weekend in there is not the best idea – it is very noisy with all the partygoers and church bells constantly ringing.
how to get there
There are very few options for how to get to Montenegro from Albania (and vice versa). We came into Montenegro with public transportation and it took us 9 hours on four different buses – to go only 200 kms!Be prepared to be flexible, we met some people who spent several extra hours in Shkodra just because the first bus never showed up.
On the way back we decided to pay a bit more and have a private transfer and it was well worth it. Our excellent driver from Montenegro Hostel even played tour guide along the way and stopped so we could take photos.
It was our big transit point – we knew the airport well and had visited many platforms at the central bus station while jetting off to other parts of the country.
And the best thing we could say about Izmir is that the döner vendor near bus lane number 48 on the second floor of the bus station served the best tavuk durum we had ever had. That’s it.
Why we never made it a point to explore Turkey’s third largest city is beyond me. Finally, in the last week of our almost six months total in which we lived just a few hours away, we made it happen.
With our time constrained we only allowed for one night. And within one hour of being there, we were kicking ourselves for our total ignorance up to that point.
izmir is fascinating.
It carries an astounding cultural, historical and spiritual significance. It is the birthplace of Homer, and is the center to three of the seven major Churches of Revelation. Like much of the western reach of the country, it was Ottoman, then Greek, then Turkish, but absorbed huge impacts of these changes, including a giant fire that destroyed much of the city in 1922.
The boardwalk along it’s Aegean coastline stretches for miles. Locals spread out on blankets in the parks along it, young and old men alike fish from the edge. Restaurants, cafes and pubs unobtrusively line the streets behind.
Why we never made it a point to explore Turkey’s third largest city is beyond me.
During our twenty-four hours there, we saw nothing in particular but enjoyed everything. We started our day by wandering the boardwalk. We stopped for a çay, walked a bit, declared it noon somewhere, stopped for a beer. Walked a little further and stopped for lunch. Dawdled some more and then needed ice cream. Found Konak Square and spent an hour lounging in the shade, people and pigeon watching to our heart’s content.
The city inspired a lazy exploration. It has such a large population, but you would never know it. The atmosphere is as laid-back as many of the smaller towns we’ve been to.
And the best part? Very few other tourists.
Seriously, where are they all?
Far from Istanbul’s pushy salesmen, when in Izmir’s version of the Grand Bazaar, we wandered slowly and completely unhassled. Some vendors appeared to want to talk to us, but didn’t have the English words to beckon us in.
And the two we met that did speak English quite well used it only as a means to understand where we wanted to go, and then led us directly to our destination. One of which insisted that should we ever need help in the area, just ask for Flash Gordon and we would be led directly to him.
The charming hospitality that has served us well all over the country is also alive and well in Izmir. And we’re convinced that it is easily Turkey’s most overlooked city.
A common question we often get asked about our travels in Italy is, “Which should I visit, Florence or Venice?”
Our answer is usually, “Why not BOTH?”!
They are equally incredible Italian cities and are genuinely unique; honestly, they aren’t even fair to compare. But if you’re on a limited travel schedule, we will try to make your decision a bit easier by offering our thoughts below.
Choosing between Florence and Venice is like picking between two flavours of gelato—both are delicious, but each offers a unique experience.
If you’re a romantic at heart, Venice’s winding canals and gondola rides can whisk you away to a dreamy, floating world. Picture yourself gliding under the Rialto Bridge, serenaded by a gondolier, as you soak in the city’s ethereal charm.
On the other hand, Florence is a feast for the senses with its Renaissance art galleries, Tuscan landscapes, cultural attractions, and rich history. Wander across the Ponte Vecchio, indulge in a scoop of gelato as you admire the Duomo, or lose yourself in the masterpieces of the Uffizi Gallery. Florence is perfect for those who crave history, art, and a warm Tuscan sun.
Both have excellent food and are easily accessible from Rome by train (yay)! But both also have scores of tourists to contend with (ugh). It’s important to weigh the good with the bad when making your decision. We break it down below.
Florence, Italy: A Renaissance Gem
Florence, nestled in the picturesque hills of Tuscany, is a living museum where every corner tells a story. The city’s cobblestone streets invite you to wander through time, past stunning Renaissance architecture and grand piazzas.
The iconic Duomo punctuates Florence’s skyline; its red-tiled dome stands proudly as a symbol of the city’s artistic legacy. Home to masterpieces by Michelangelo, Botticelli, and da Vinci, Florence’s museums and galleries are treasure troves of art and culture.
Practical Information
Best Time to Visit:
Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October): These seasons offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices than summer, perhaps making it the best time to visit Florence.
Summer (June-August): While it’s the busiest time, Florence is still beautiful in the summer. Be prepared for crowds and higher prices.
Winter (December-February): The city is less crowded in winter, and you might even catch a glimpse of snowfall. However, some attractions and restaurants may have limited hours.
Transportation:
Florence is a pedestrian’s dream, with its charming cobblestone streets making walking the best way to explore the historic centre.
For longer distances, the city’s bus system offers an efficient and affordable alternative, with routes covering most major attractions and neighbourhoods. Buses are frequent and reasonably priced, making them a convenient choice for travellers exploring more of Florence without breaking the bank.
Taxis are also available throughout the city, but they can be pricey, so they’re best reserved for late-night returns or only when you’re in a hurry.
Tips:
Wear comfortable shoes: You’ll be doing a lot of walking, so make sure you have comfortable footwear.
Use public transportation: Florence has almost 100 bus lines, 3 active tram lines, and a special night service, making it very well connected.
Purchase a Firenze Card: The Firenze Card is your cultural fast pass to Florence’s best attractions. This card gives you priority access to over 70 museums, galleries, and historical sites in the city, such as the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia. The card is valid for 72 hours, making it ideal for short visits. It also offers discounts on public transportation.
Avoid driving: The city’s ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone) is confusing and restricted, so driving is best left to locals.
Purchase tickets online: For popular attractions like the Uffizi and Duomo, buy tickets in advance to avoid long lines (see our recommendations below).
Best Things to Do and See in Florence
Uffizi Gallery
A masterpiece of Italian Renaissance art, the Uffizi houses an unparalleled collection of paintings by Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Leonardo da Vinci.
Best Time to Visit: Early mornings or late afternoons to avoid crowds, particularly on weekdays.
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 8:15 am–6:30 pm (9:30 pm on Tuesdays). Closed on Mondays.
Tips: Book tickets in advance to skip long lines. Take breaks; the gallery is extensive, and there’s a lot to see.
Transportation: Located centrally, the gallery is easily accessible on foot or by bus (ATAF buses #23, #C2).
Tours: Tired of waiting in line? Expert guides will whisk you past the crowds and straight into the Uffizi Gallery. See Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus,’ Caravaggio’s ‘Medusa,’ and more hidden gems.
Duomo
The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its iconic Brunelleschi dome, is a symbol of the city’s architectural grandeur. It’s one of the stand-out buildings in the city and can be seen from almost every viewpoint. You can marvel at the exterior or book tickets and go inside.
Best Time to Visit: Early mornings or late afternoons are best for avoiding long lines and large crowds. Weekdays are generally less crowded than weekends.
Hours: The Cathedral is open from 10:15 am to 3:45 pm but closed on Sundays; Dome and Bell Tower from 8:15 am to 6:45 pm. Hours may vary, so check ahead, especially on holidays.
Tips: Book tickets in advance for the Dome and Tower; wear appropriate clothing (shoulders and knees covered) for religious sites; and consider the Brunelleschi Pass for access to all areas.
Transportation: Easily accessible by walking if you’re in the historic center; buses, taxis, and trams also serve the Piazza del Duomo area.
Tours: We highly recommend avoiding the crowds and skipping the lines. With this Duomo and Brunelleschi tour, you’ll feel like a celebrity, leaving all those people lining up behind.
Ponte Vecchio
Ponte Vecchio is probably the most iconic medieval bridge and landmark in Florence. It’s lined with jewelry shops and offers stunning views of the Arno River and the surrounding city.
Best Time to Visit: Visit early in the morning or late afternoon for fewer crowds and stunning sunset views, especially in spring and fall.
Hours: Considering the bridge is a public walkway, it is open 24/7. The shops on the bridge typically are open from around 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM, depending on the season.
Transportation: The Ponte Vecchio is centrally located and easily accessible by walking from most parts of Florence; buses and taxis are also available nearby.
Tours: Many walking tours of Florence include the Ponte Vecchio, often combined with nearby landmarks like the Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti.
Palazzo Pitti
This grand palace, once the home of the Medici family, now houses a variety of museums, including the Palatine Gallery and the Boboli Gardens.
Best Time to Visit: Visit during the morning in spring or fall to avoid large crowds and enjoy the Boboli Gardens in comfortable weather.
Hours: The palace is typically open from 8:15 am to 6:30 pm but closed on Mondays; hours may vary for different museums within the complex.
Tips: Buy tickets in advance, especially for the Boboli Gardens, and plan to spend several hours exploring the palace’s multiple museums and gardens.
Transportation: Easily accessible by walking from central Florence; buses and taxis also serve the area near the palace.
Tours: Guided tours cover the palace’s art collections and history, often including the Boboli Gardens, or you can opt for audio tours to explore at your own pace.
Piazzale Michelangelo
For an incredible view of Florence, including the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio, this is where you want to be, especially at sunset. It’s very popular amongst visitors and locals, so be prepared for some crowds. The square is dominated by a bronze replica of Michelangelo’s David, standing as a tribute to the artist.
Best Time to Visit: Visit at sunrise or sunset for breathtaking panoramic views of Florence, with spring and fall offering the best weather.
Hours: The Piazzale is open 24/7 as a public space, making it accessible at any time of day.
Tips: Bring a camera for stunning photos, and consider packing a snack or drink to enjoy while taking in the view.
Transportation: Reach the Piazzale by walking, taking bus routes 12 or 13, or using a taxi; it’s about a 20-minute uphill walk from the city center.
Tours: Many walking and bike tours include Piazzale Michelangelo, with some offering sunset tours for the best views of Florence.
Unique Experiences
Market Shopping
Stroll through Florence’s lively markets, like the bustling Mercato Centrale, where every aisle offers a feast for the senses. Find fresh produce and sample lots of local delicacies. And it’s not just about the food—these markets are also treasure troves for unique souvenirs. Whether you’re hunting for artisanal olive oil, handmade pasta, or quirky keepsakes, the vibrant atmosphere ensures that every visit is a flavorful adventure.
Day Trips to the Tuscany Countryside
Tuscany serves up art, history, rolling hills, and mouthwatering cuisine in one perfect bite. Got just one day? No problem! Take a day trip from Florence and dive into the best of the region with a local guide. You’ll explore Siena’s medieval charm, enjoy (optional) wine tasting in Chianti, and stroll through the picturesque streets of San Gimignano. A trip to Pisa to gawk at the famous Leaning Tower is possible (although we honestly wouldn’t recommend it – the tower is genuinely not that exciting).
Take a Cooking Class
Unlock the mysteries of Tuscan cuisine by rolling up your sleeves and diving into a hands-on pasta and cooking class. Picture yourself in a cozy kitchen, surrounded by fresh local ingredients, as you learn to whip up dishes that would make any Italian nonna proud. From handmade pasta to rich, flavorful sauces, you’ll not only master the recipes but also pick up tips and tricks passed down through generations. And the best part? You get to savour the fruits of your labour, enjoying a delicious meal you created from scratch.
Art Workshop
Whether you’re an experienced artist or a beginner, a private workshop experience is designed to help you connect with Florence’s rich cradle of Renaissance art traditions. Rediscover your creative spark using Renaissance techniques and bring home not just a souvenir but an unforgettable memory.
Florence Bike Tour
Florence is a treasure trove of jaw-dropping architecture, but let’s face it—strolling the cobblestone streets can leave you hobbling. Why not swap sore feet for two wheels? On a bike tour, you’ll glide through the city’s Renaissance core, hitting all the significant sights like the Duomo, Piazza Signoria, and Santa Croce without a single wrong turn. Best part? The tour wraps up with a well-deserved gelato break. No need for maps—just fun, history, and sweet rewards.
Florence From the Rooftops
Seeing Florence from the Rooftops offers the perfect blend of food, drinks, and sightseeing in Florence. Guests will visit historic bars with stunning views, learning about the city’s culture and history while sampling Italian “aperitivo,” wines, or a spritz (with non-alcoholic options for younger participants). For a morning option, indulge in an authentic Italian breakfast of cappuccino and cornetto. The experience wraps up with a delightful gelato.
What and Where to Eat in Florence
Florence is renowned for its delicious Italian cuisine and traditional Tuscan dishes. Here are a few must-try dishes:
Bistecca Fiorentina: A juicy, grilled T-bone steak, typically served with a side of potatoes.
Pappa al Pomodoro: A hearty Tuscan soup made with bread, tomatoes, and basil.
Gelato: Indulge in the creamy, flavorful gelato found on every corner of the city.
Chianti wine: Sample the famous Chianti wine produced in the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
Porchetta – A delectable Italian dish that’s sure to tantalize your taste buds. It’s essentially a boneless pork roast that’s been stuffed with aromatic herbs and spices, such as rosemary, garlic, and fennel. The pork is then slow-roasted until the skin is crispy and the meat is incredibly tender and juicy.
Osteria Santo Spirito: This charming trattoria is located in the Oltrarno district and is known for its authentic Tuscan dishes. Their pasta dishes, especially the Pappardelle al Cinghiale (wild boar pasta), are particularly popular.
Trattoria Mario: A family-run establishment since 1898, Trattoria Mario is a must-visit for traditional Florentine cuisine. Their Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine steak) is a local favorite, and their friendly atmosphere makes it a memorable dining experience.
All’Antico Vinaio: This popular sandwich shop offers delicious and affordable paninis stuffed with high-quality meats, cheeses, and vegetables. Their sandwiches are so popular that there’s often a line out the door! We’ve been there several times and salivate every time we even think about it.
Le Volpi e le Uve: This stylish restaurant is located in the historic center of Florence and offers a modern take on Tuscan cuisine. Their innovative dishes and elegant ambiance make it a popular choice for a special occasion.
Gelateria Santa Cristina: For a sweet treat, head to Gelateria Santa Cristina, a renowned gelato shop known for its creamy and flavorful ice cream. With a wide variety of flavours, there’s something for everyone to enjoy.
Where to Stay in Florence
Florence offers a variety of accommodation options to suit every budget. Consider staying in the historic center for easy access to the city’s attractions. Some popular neighbourhoods include Santa Croce, San Niccolò, and Oltrarno.
Rocco Forte Hotel Savoy
If you want to splurge on a stay in Florence, this is where you want to stay. Rocco Forte Hotel Savoy is a historic luxury hotel in the heart of Florence, offering elegant accommodations and impeccable service. The hotel’s modern Art Nouveau decor, Michelin-starred restaurant, and a rooftop terrace with panoramic city views make it a top choice for discerning travellers.
Brunelleschi Hotel
Situated in a 15th-century tower in the heart of the city, Brunelleschi Boutique hotel boasts stunning views of the Duomo and the entire city. The hotel’s elegant rooms, rooftop terrace, and excellent service make it a popular choice for both couples and families.
Hotel Lungarno
Overlooking the Arno River, Hotel Lungarno is a luxury hotel offering stylish accommodations and panoramic city views. Guests are pampered here with the hotel’s spa, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a convenient location. This hotel easily is a top choice for those seeking a luxurious stay in Florence.
J.K. Place
The Place Firenze is a charming boutique hotel located in a historic building in the Oltrarno district. The hotel’s cozy rooms, friendly staff, and affordable rates make it a great option for those who travel on a budget and who want to experience the authentic side of Florence. But good luck getting a room here. Reservations book up fast and well in advance. If you do manage to get a room, enjoy it!
Venice, Italy: A Floating City of Romance
Venice, the city of canals, offers an open invitation to get delightfully lost. Imagine wandering through its labyrinth of narrow alleys and crossing charming stone bridges, with every turn offering a glimpse of something enchanting. Honestly, getting lost is a big part of Venice’s appeal. (So much so that we even considered what it might be like to live in Venice.)
Practical Information
Best Time to Visit:
Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October): These seasons offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices than summer, perhaps making it the best time to visit Venice.
Summer (June-August): While it’s the busiest time, Venice is still magical in the summer. Be prepared for crowds and higher prices.
Winter (December-February): The city is less crowded in winter, and you might even catch a glimpse of snowfall. However, some attractions and restaurants may have limited hours.
Transportation:
Water Bus (Vaporetto): The Vaporetto is Venice’s answer to a city bus, but with a twist—you’re cruising the iconic canals instead of fighting traffic. Getting around the city by boat is the most convenient way to navigate Venice’s watery streets. Grab yourself a Vaporetto pass, and you can hop on and off these floating ferries as often as you like. Whether you’re headed to the Rialto Bridge or just looking for the next gelato stop, a Vaporetto pass ensures you’ll travel like a local–without sinking your wallet.
Gondola: Sure, a gondola ride in Venice might cost you more than a slice of pizza, but let’s be honest—can you really say you’ve experienced Venice without lounging in a gondola while a striped-shirt gondolier serenades you under the moonlight? It’s like eating spaghetti without the meatballs! Yes, it’s a bit of a splurge, but it’s also the most iconic way to see Venice’s magical canals. Think of it as an investment in a memory that’s worth more than a thousand Instagram likes.
Walking: Venice practically begs to be explored on foot, with its labyrinth of narrow streets, secret squares, and charming bridges. You’ll stumble upon hidden gems like quaint cafes, quirky shops, and tiny canals that the tourists haven’t discovered yet. Each twist and turn reveals another postcard-worthy view, and who knows? You might even accidentally wander into the perfect little trattoria for a spontaneous lunch. So, lace up your comfiest shoes and let Venice’s maze lead you to unexpected adventures.
Tips:
Wear comfortable shoes: You’ll be doing a lot of walking, so make sure you have comfortable footwear.
Be patient: Venice can get crowded, especially during peak season.
Tourist Day Tax – Starting in 2025, tourists who arrive in Venice only for the day will be required to pay a daily tourist tax. The ticket must be paid for in advance, and a QR code will be supplied. There will be no turnstiles to present the ticket, but there will be random checks to ensure people have them. The tax is expected to be between 3 and 10 Euros. If you spend one or more nights in Venice, the tax is included in your accommodation stay.
Best Things to See and Do in Venice
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)
Welcome to Piazza San Marco, the beating heart of Venice, where history, art, and a few hundred pigeons collide. This iconic square is home to the magnificent St. Mark’s Basilica, where every inch seems to be covered in glittering mosaics. Don’t forget to look up at the Campanile bell tower—climb it for panoramic views of the city.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning to beat the crowds or late at night when the square is beautifully lit and less crowded.
Hours: Open 24/7, though specific attractions within the square, like St. Mark’s Basilica, have set hours.
Tips: Watch for high tides that can flood the square, especially in autumn and winter. Enjoy a coffee at one of the historic cafes, but be prepared for steep prices.
Transportation: Easily accessible by Vaporetto to the San Marco stop.
Tours: There are a variety of guided tours that include St. Mark’s, often bundled with entry to St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace.
Rialto Bridge
Ah, the Rialto Bridge—a true Venetian icon. Built in the late 16th century, it’s not just one of the oldest bridges in Venice but also the most famous tourist attraction. Spanning the Grand Canal with a grace that only centuries of history can muster, it offers stunning views that are postcard-perfect from every angle. As you cross its stone arches, you’ll find shops lining the way, offering everything from jewelry to souvenirs. Stop, take the view, and watch as gondolas glide beneath you.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning for fewer crowds or at dusk for a stunning sunset view.
Hours: Open 24/7 as it’s part of the main pedestrian route.
Tips: Visit the nearby Rialto Market in the morning to experience local culture. Hold onto your wallet—this area is notorious for pickpockets.
Transportation: Accessible by Vaporetto lines 1 and 2, stopping at the Rialto stop.
Tours: Most walking tours of Venice include a visit to the Rialto Bridge, offering insights into its history and significance.
Hop on a Gondola Ride
Experience the magic of Venice without getting your feet wet. A gondola ride is like a floating love song, offering a unique perspective on the city’s iconic architecture and hidden gems. So, grab your partner and let the gondoliers be your guides on this unforgettable journey.
Best Time to Experience: Early evening for fewer crowds and romantic sunset views.
Hours: Gondolas operate throughout the day, but prices increase after 7:00 PM.
Tips: Negotiate the route and price beforehand. Share a gondola with others to split costs if you’re on a budget.
Transportation: Gondola stations are scattered throughout Venice, often near major landmarks like Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s.
Tours: Private and shared gondola ride tours are available, often combined with other experiences like serenades or walking tours.
Doge’s Palace
A magnificent Gothic masterpiece that was once the heart of Venetian power. Situated on St. Mark’s, it served as the residence of the Doge. Today, it’s a museum showcasing the city’s rich history and artistic heritage. Visitors can explore its ornate chambers, including the opulent Golden Staircase and the Senate Hall, adorned with intricate frescoes and sculptures. The infamous Bridge of Sighs, connecting the palace to the prison, symbolizes Venetian justice and intrigue.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid peak crowds.
Hours: Generally open from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM (hours may vary by season).
Tips: Purchase skip-the-line tickets in advance to avoid long waits. Consider a guided tour for deeper insights into the palace’s history and artwork.
Transportation: Easily reachable by Vaporetto to the San Zaccaria or San Marco stops.
Tours: Choose from various private guided tours around the city to get the most bang for your buck.
Accademia Bridge
A graceful wooden pedestrian bridge offers an unparalleled view of the Grand Canal. Its timeless design, blending seamlessly with the Venetian architecture, provides a picturesque vantage point for admiring the city’s iconic landmarks. As the sun dips below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the canal, the Accademia Bridge becomes a magical stage for a breathtaking sunset spectacle. The interplay of light and shadow on the water, the reflection of the historic buildings, and the vibrant hues of the sky create a truly unforgettable experience.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for quieter moments and beautiful lighting. Evening visits offer romantic views with the city lights reflecting on the Grand Canal.
Hours: Open 24/7 as it is a public pedestrian bridge.
Tips: The bridge offers one of the best panoramic views of the Grand Canal, including a perfect sightline to the iconic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Ideal for photography, so have your camera ready!
Transportation: Easily accessible by Vaporetto; use lines 1 or 2, and get off at the Accademia stop. Walking from nearby attractions like St. Mark’s or the Rialto Bridge is also a pleasant option.
Tours: There are many available walking tours of Venice that often include the Accademia Bridge. These tours provide historical context and guided exploration of the surrounding Dorsoduro district, which is rich in art and architecture.
Other Unique Experiences in Venice
Wine & Food Tasting Tour
Venice isn’t just a visual feast; it’s also a culinary paradise! Dive into the delicious world of Venetian wines with an insider’s wine crawl that takes you to six different spots around the city. Savour the flavours of Veneto wines paired with mouthwatering local dishes made from fresh ingredients. As you sip and snack, you’ll hear fascinating stories about each neighbourhood and learn how to pick out the best wines like a true Venetian. Forget the tourist traps—this is your chance to eat, drink, and explore like a local.
Carnival of Venice
Imagine a city transformed into a fantastical realm of masks and mystery. That’s the Carnival of Venice, an annual spectacle that captivates the world with its opulence and intrigue. As the city’s canals and squares come alive with vibrant colours and elaborate costumes, it’s like stepping into a living, breathing fairytale. From the iconic Venetian masks (maybe even try making one of your own!), each with its own unique story, to the dazzling parades that wind through the city, every moment is a feast for the senses.
Day Trips to the Islands
Embark on a delightful adventure to the nearby islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello, each brimming with its own unique flair. Murano dazzles with its world-famous glass artistry—watch the masters at work. Burano will charm you with its vibrant, rainbow-hued houses and intricate lacework, perfect for those Insta-worthy shots. Torcello, the quieter, mysterious sibling, invites you to wander its ancient streets and discover its historic cathedrals. It’s a trifecta of Venetian charm that’s sure to leave you enchanted.
Murano Glass Factory Tour
Step into a world of shimmering beauty at Murano’s famous glass factories, where centuries-old artistry comes alive. Watch master artisans transform molten glass into exquisite vases, intricate chandeliers, and vibrant sculptures with breathtaking precision. The rhythmic clanging of tools and the glow of the furnace add to the mesmerizing experience. A visit to a Murano glass factory is a must, offering a newfound appreciation for the craftsmanship behind these stunning creations.
Kayak the Canals
Ready to explore Venice from a whole new angle? Jump into a kayak and paddle through the city’s historic canals on this eco-adventure tour. Expert guides will lead you through the watery arteries of Venice, sharing fascinating stories about the city’s history and culture. No kayaking experience is needed–you’ll be provided with all the gear and instruction you need. So, grab your paddle, hop in, and get ready for a splashin’ good time.
What and Where to Eat in Venice
Venetian cuisine is known for its seafood dishes and fresh pasta. Here are a few must-try specialties on the Venic food scene:
Risotto al Nero di Seppia: This is a Venetian delicacy – a black risotto made with squid and ink, giving it a black colour.
Baccalà alla Vicentina: A traditional Venetian dish made with salted cod, polenta, and onions.
Cicchetti: Small, Venetian tapas-style snacks that are perfect for sharing.
Prosecco: Enjoy a glass of sparkling Prosecco, a famous Italian wine produced in the Veneto region.
Restaurants in Venice
Antico Ristorante Al Squero: Nestled along the Grand Canal, this charming restaurant offers breathtaking city views while serving up traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood dishes, especially the grilled octopus and the risotto with seafood, are highly recommended.
Trattoria Alla Madonna: This family-run trattoria in the Cannaregio district is known for its authentic and affordable Venetian fare. Their homemade pasta dishes and hearty meat dishes are a must-try.
All’Osteria di Santa Marina: Located near the Rialto Bridge, this restaurant specializes in Cicchetti, Venetian-style tapas. Their small plates are perfect for sharing and sampling a variety of flavours.
Ristorante Agli Artisti: This historic restaurant near Campo Santa Margherita is a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. Their menu features classic Venetian dishes with a modern twist, and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming.
Gelateria Grom: For a sweet treat, head to Gelateria Grom, a renowned chain known for its high-quality, artisanal gelato. Their flavours are made with fresh, natural ingredients and are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth.
Where to Stay in Venice
Venice offers a variety of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels. Consider staying in the historic center for easy access to the city’s attractions. Some popular neighbourhoods include San Marco, Dorsoduro, and Cannaregio.
Aman Venice
Located in a 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, Aman Venice offers a luxurious and intimate experience with opulent interiors, beautiful gardens, and impeccable service. It combines historic elegance with modern comfort, featuring original frescoes and chandeliers.
The Gritti Palace
The iconic Gritti Palace hotel boasts a rich Venetian history and a prime location on the Grand Canal, with stunning views of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Its interiors are lavishly decorated with antique furniture, Murano glass, and Renaissance art, making it a favourite for those seeking a truly Venetian experience. The pricey nightly stays are definitely worth treating yourself.
Hotel Danieli
Known for its regal atmosphere and located just steps from St. Mark’s, Hotel Danieli is a Venetian landmark. Its grand décor reflects the city’s historical grandeur, with marble staircases, antique furnishings, and luxurious rooms that blend classic opulence with modern amenities. The hotel faces the Venetian lagoon and is just a few steps away from San Marco, making it one of the most popular hotels in Venice.
Belmond Hotel Cipriani
Situated on Giudecca Island, Belmond Hotel Cipriani offers an exclusive and tranquil escape with breathtaking views of the Venetian lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. It features Venice’s only Olympic-sized swimming pool, lush gardens, and exceptional dining options, perfect for travellers seeking both privacy and luxury.
Ca’ Sagredo Hotel
A 14th-century palazzo has been transformed into the boutique hotel Ca’ Sagredo located along the Grand Canal. With its ornate ceilings, beautiful frescoes, and museum-worthy art collection, Ca’ Sagredo offers guests the unique experience of living in a piece of Venice’s artistic heritage. Each room has antique furniture and original works of art, making it a popular hotel among guests.
Our Recommendation:
We Choose Florence
For us, Florence wins. After visiting both Italian cities numerous times, our heart is in the Tuscan countryside. Now, don’t think that this decision came easy. We love visiting Venice. But for us, the more laid-back vibe, the stunning architecture, no tourist tax (yet) and wandering through Florence’s city centre are what won us over. Oh, and the porchetta. In Florence, we’ve probably eaten one of the best sandwiches of our lives, and that alone may prompt us to book a flight there.
So, what do you think? Would you rather go to Florence or Venice?
“You are living in Burhaniye? You know that here in Turkey we call Burhaniye the silent town because it’s so quiet and slow.”
The shop owner was not kidding. Quiet and slow are two adjectives which describe the town perfectly. I would also add in hospitable and traditional.And we like it that way.
When people ask us for advice for what to do in Turkey, our advice is simple. There are the big tourist spots that are not to be missed: Istanbul, Cappadocia, Ephesus, Pamukkale. They are annoyingly touristy but for a very good reason – they are simply stunning, and worth every amount of praise they get.
But if that is all any tourist sees, then they haven’t really experienced Turkey. This incredible country has so much more to offer beyond the sights. There are so many charming people, colorful markets without vendors trying to rip you off, and giant, empty beaches just waiting to be enjoyed.
So break away from the sheep path and forge a new trail. There are plenty of options to get a real Turkish experience, and we’ll introduce you to ours, in a tiny western stretch along the coast of the Aegean.
Akçay
This sleepy coastal town comes alive in the summer with Turkish (and some German) tourists. The boardwalk is the real draw, with plenty of seaside shops and restaurants to comfortably relax and watch the world stroll by.
Ören / Iskele / Burhaniye
If you are looking for a beach with a party, and more English spoken than Turkish, then Bodrum is your place. But if you are looking for a sleepy beach town, a gorgeous beach, and plenty of dining options, consider Ören. The town pretty much hibernates from October thru May, but on hot days the beach will still most likely be empty. Grab a couple of lemon Efes and spend the day soaking in the sun. At night, there are is one club in Iskele, or you can practice your Okey or Backgammon skills at many of the tea cafes along the waterfront.
And while Burhaniye itself may not be the prettiest town, it has plenty of Turkish charm and delicious food available (and the best chocolate baklava we’ve ever eaten), at a mere fraction of the price compared to the rest of Turkey.
Ayvalık
The port town of Ayvalik might just be our favourite. It serves as an easy getaway to the neighbouring Greece via quick ferries to the island of Lesvos. On Thursdays, many Greeks and other tourists make a day trip over to take advantage of the relaxed but well stocked weekly market. And after a day of wandering through the maze of streets that house the market, there are many waterfront restaurants to enjoy an Efes and watching the fishing boats work in the harbour.
Bergama
If ruins are your thing, you will most likely be visiting Ephesus on your grand tour. Nearby Bergama should really not be missed. While the ruins of Pergamum are not quite as stunning as Ephesus, the setting is, as they are high up the side of a hill and tower over the town below.
This is just one little slice of Turkey, there are so many other areas that we have yet to explore on another visit.
We left Novi Sad mid-morning. It was an uneventful departure – compared to the trip to Novi Sad from Belgrade – where I had misread information online and estimated our departure time almost two hours from when it was. We frantically stuffed our bags, erroneously bought one ticket instead of two, and wasted precious minutes sorting the situation. It was the kindness of a tall Serbian man who saved us from our ticketing blunder. “I have a sister living in Montreal!” he said as our initial chatter revealed our home country. In all of our years of travel, such connections have always been what most quickly bound us with strangers. He spoke on our behalf to the ticket counter attendant and we were soon on our way. We dashed into the near-empty train car, out of breath and relieved. Our train travel in Europe adventure was about to begin!
In Novi Sad, with our Rail Europe passes in hand, there was no need for any commotion at the ticket office, and we instead filled the passes out while enjoying a leisurely coffee and watching the minutes tick down to our departure time. Our first-class tickets afforded us a gentle ride to our destination of Budapest, a city we had fallen hard for a few years past, and that which now housed two dear friends we were eager to see.
Journey To Budapest
Our next leg on our train travel in Europe adventure would see us ride the rails to Budapest. We arrived to Keleti station and felt oddly at ease as soon as we stepped out on the platform; the familiar rumble of luggage wheels over rough concrete followed us to the door. The majority of our travels over the years have been in perpetual chase of new destinations and new experiences, but on this European adventure, it was the “recognizable” that pulled us. I was surprised at how much we remembered. The station’s eclectic style made it one of the most modern in Europe when it was constructed; it sustained damage through the world wars but recovered to reclaim its role as the central portal to Budapest. The arched windows high above the entrance station cast long and curious shadows over the people who bustled in and out.
I hid in the shade, away from the blistering Budapest sun, as we waited a few minutes for our friends to arrive. I watched as people came and went; long hugs were bestowed to both arrivers and departers. One woman, in particular, caught my eye as she waited by the metro ticket booths, with one nervous foot tapping that sent small ripples up her lengthy, canary yellow skirt. She clutched a small bouquet of assorted flowers and checked her watch frequently.
I knew her party had arrived before I saw them because of the smile that erupted on her face as if she was suddenly lit from within. A child ran forth, maybe 5 or 6 in years, and encircled her waist with a fierce grip. Her travel companion pulled two bags, the familiar rumble reached my ears before they rested while she was handed flowers and gave an intense hug. Was it her sister? Girlfriend? I couldn’t know, but silently created my own story for them, as I tend to do when people-watching. Airports and train stations were among my favourite places in the world, for that exact reason.
And in the next minute my own story in Budapest was about to unfold, as I saw our friends, who we hadn’t seen in two years, walking up to us with arms outstretched.
Keleti Metro station
Train from Budapest to Stuttgart to Paris
This was going to be our longest journey with our train travel in Europe. Looking at the map, it seemed entirely doable. There are high-speed trains and all, I told Pete, as we plotted out our route across Europe. In my usual unplanning style, I didn’t bother to check actual distances and times. It turns out that it is a 17-hour trip from Budapest to Paris (high-speed trains and all). Not that many years ago, I would have done it with no problem. But these days? That was a journey of endurance that I was not willing to sign up for.
We broke it up with a stay in Stuttgart, Germany. Given the ten-hour trip in, I was in no mood to explore the new-to-us city and turned into bed early. We were out first thing in the morning, leaving me with no firm impression of the city except that it was rainy. All I really cared about was getting to Paris anyway.
We brought the rain with us. Water streaked across our windows as the train sped towards the capital city, one that we first visited as a surprise on our wedding anniversary. We returned to Paris a couple of times since, and always with the same fiery anticipation of romance that wowed us on our first time. This visit was a little different, dedicated to seeing clients and friends, but still under our lofty expectations of being similarly enchanted. We could not have arrived fast enough.
At the Gare du Nord station, we shuttled ourselves quickly to the subway after weaving through this busiest terminal in all of Europe. From there, we took two different routes, hauling our bags up and down stairs, grimacing from being so tired after two days of travel. As I have many times in the past, I cursed Pete for not giving in to an easy cab or Uber ride. (He has a perpetual disdain of paying for taxis when we have two perfectly good feet to carry us onto cheaper subways. He forgets, sometimes, that my feet are not as perfectly stable as his are these days.) We turned into our hotel in Le Marais, and in the following days, we let ourselves be taken by the city again.
On the way out, we did not make that mistake again and arrived back at the Paris-Nord station with ease. And thankfully so, as our day then was about to unfold quite differently.
Gare du Nord train station
Train from Paris To Maastricht
We left in a panic. (See a trend here? We are terrible at organizing the ordinary paces of travel.) We showed up at the Gare du Nord in Paris with just a half hour to spare before our anticipated departure time, only to find that it was sold out. It is the busiest station in Europe, we discovered much too late. We reserved seats on the next train and waited out the hour in between.
Arriving in Brussels with minutes to spare, we sprinted (as much as one can spring with heavy bags in tow), to catch our next train. What did that station look like? Neither of us can comment as our focus was on one foot in front of the other.
We made it just in time and had one more stop between us and Maastricht. We had never been to Liège before and walked slowly off the train, mouths agape, upon our arrival.
The station is a marvel. Finished less than a decade ago, it is made of steel, glass, and white concrete, contorted overhead in a giant wave that leaves striking layers of shade on the platforms below. The luminous sunny day ensured we walked in a Matrix-inspired world. Below the platforms is a buzz of commercial activity; I enjoyed coffee with trains zipping over my head while Pete ran around with the camera, furiously capturing what he could with the half-hour available before our next train.
From there to Maastricht, a city we had been to several years before during a self-directed tour of the Netherlands. It’s not the most scenic we’ve ever been to, nor does it boast a diverse array of things to do, but we immediately sensed a romantic vibe and just went with it. In the fall, vibrant leaves scattered across the cobble-stone streets, and patios were full of people enjoying the last balmy rays of sun before winter came. A passing boat captain had even caught us kissing on a bridge as he passed underneath – he blew his horn and playfully wagged his finger at us as we blushed. It was a very memorable stay.
Maastricht is not on many people’s ‘list’ but when sketching out our trip we both felt compelled to return. It would serve as the perfect rest stop between friend visits.
The small train station, so many years later, was quiet and entirely familiar, but the walk down the main street to our accommodation was not. It was busier than we remembered; much more happening than we remembered. Across from our apartment, Pete procured the best Indonesian food we have had in a while, and then the best Thai the following day. (Don’t worry – snacks consisted of bitterballen and stroopwafel – we did indulge in the local cuisine as well.) It had grown in both activity and diversity, yet still felt as comfortable as it always had.
Maastrict Train Station
Train To Maastricht Amsterdam
Our train travel in Europe continued with a trip from Maastricht to Amsterdam. Music festival-goers filtered in and out of the train as we neared Amsterdam. From what festival, we never figured out, but the carts of camping equipment, the attendees’ slow and sloppy stagger to the train steps, and the assortment of ironic t-shirts seen were dead giveaways to the event of the past weekend. That was us, many years ago, Pete and I both commented.
The train ride was short and once again felt very usual. I’m not sure I can even count the number of times we have been to Amsterdam but it is several (including repeated visits to the Anne Frank House). We are always brought back by the distinct charm that this city holds, and especially by the friends that live within.
From the platform at Amsterdam Central Train Station, we trudged down the stairs to the hallway that would bring us outside. There are only two ways to exit the station but we were suddenly trapped and confused. New (at least, new to us) barriers had been put up that only allow passengers to exit after scanning the cards that they had purchased to get on the train in the first place. With our Rail Europe passes, we had no such cards.
I sent Pete down to the other side to see if we had missed a step while I waited with the bags. We had not. Passengers weaved around us as we stood in utter confusion until I finally spotted a kiosk labelled ‘help’ in the middle of the barriers. A friendly voice greeted us, and after I explained the situation, the small doors promptly opened and we were ushered out. Still shaking our heads at the sheer absurdity of this new system that doesn’t account for train passes, we walked out into the open air of Netherlands’ capital. We stopped for the obligatory selfie in front of the striking Gothic and Renaissance-styled facade of the station before finding the tram that would take us to our home for a few days.
(Later, we would discover that emblazoned on the front of our Rail Europe pass is a QR code specifically to be used for exiting within the Netherlands’ train system. We’ll get this whole “travel” thing right one of these days.)
The Best Way to Train Travel in Europe
As you read above, we have a tendency to make things SO much harder than they need to be. Ahem. BUT, the one thing that worked very well for us all over the continent was our pass from Rail Europe/sold by Rail Europe. It makes train travel in Europe extremely easy and affordable.
We had the passes shipped to us in advance of our European adventures. They allowed us to be flexible with our schedules and most of the time we could just hop into the first-class car without booking anything (although there were a couple of routes that required us to make reservations for our seats in advance which we typically did the night before). Having those passes in hand took away many potential headaches, and we travelled in first-class comfort while saving a few hundred dollars had we bought all of those tickets separately.
It was a rainy afternoon in Belgrade and we were sitting in our hotel room mapping our train route from Novi Sad, Serbia, to Amsterdam, Netherlands. Travelling by train is our preferred way to get around Europe – it is much less stressful than air travel, and it allows us to focus, get work done, and aimlessly look out a window and let our minds wander.
Getting from A to B is a bit of a struggle because I tend to gravitate towards photo-worthy routes and always want to add on more days. Efficiency often takes a back seat.
And I was especially challenged, considering we had just under 2 weeks with necessary stops in Budapest, Paris, and Amsterdam. Could we somehow also make it to Hallstadt, Austria? Or the Eltz Castle in Germany? Would a stop in Bratislava, Slovakia make sense? Could we swing south and spend a few days in the Dolomites of Italy?
Our Train Journey Through Europe
I had to accept that despite everything that Europe can offer a photographer, this trip had to be about finding the most efficient way. I resigned to the idea that all the additional spots I wanted to visit would have to be at another time. Besides, I couldn’t be disappointed in the stops we did make anyway.
Belgrade, Serbia
Our first stop and time into Serbia and we were quickly reminded how much we love the feel of the Balkan countries.
Novi Sad, Serbia
When the rains cleared up, I set out on a photo walk and found the city to be quite charming. Nestled on the Danube River, Novi Sad is quite busy and incredibly photogenic. The old town has numerous cobblestone walkways, mostly limited to foot traffic, and is lined with 19th-century buildings and numerous religious edifices. Across the river sits the mighty Petrovaradin Fortress that overlooks the city and is a popular spot for locals to enjoy a post-work beer.
Budapest, Hungary
Our sole reason for spending time in Budapest was to catch up with friends. Luckily, they also are avid hobby photographers and joined me in exploring the city and snapping a few shots. Budapest captured us the first time we visited in 2014 and no matter how many times we see the waterfront along the Danube, the chain bridge, and the Parliament Building, the city will always cause me to stop short.
Stuttgart, Germany
We decided to break up the long trip from Budapest to Paris with a stop in Stuttgart. It was rainy and dreary the whole time, but I took a chance for an early morning run and to capture some of the city before the locals rolled into work.
Paris, France
This was our third time in Paris, this time to see clients and friends, and yet again, Paris wowed us. With three days in hand, we wanted to relive some of the spots where we had celebrated our wedding anniversary years ago. We drank wine along the Seine, ate fondue until we almost burst, and walked as much as our legs would carry. My photo sessions mostly revolved around my morning run, just as the city was waking up.
Maastricht, Netherlands
Our return to this charming little city a couple of hours south of Amsterdam rekindled some of the magic we found in 2011.
We travelled over 2,500 km on trains from Novi Sad to Amsterdam, and I came home with a few memory cards full of images I never expected. This time, I never made it to Halstatt, Eltz or Bratislava, and the Dolomites are still on my must-see list. But Europe can never ever disappoint. It’s the reason we love going over and will keep going.
What made this train journey easy and less stressful was having a pass from Eurail/sold by Rail Europe in our hands. The global pass allowed us to be flexible with our schedules, was less expensive by hundreds of dollars, and most of the time, we rode in a first-class car.
The landscape before us was best described as Tim Burtonesque. Everything appeared exaggerated and disproportionate – thin sprouting trees covered in mounds of sticky snow, forcing a bend in their middle, some curving enough to make an arch over our path.The monotone pallet didn’t change for miles. It burnt into my psyche such that when/if Pete and I ever have a home again, I know the exact colour scheme we will draw from. Crisp white, the steel blue of the horizon, slate brown on the barely visible tree limbs, and the burgundy of the crossing signs marking the trail.
Perhaps we’ll leave out the tiny bits of contrasting orange though. The bright tethers of the dogs jingled as they ran, bouncing off of the white, black, grey, and brown of their fur. Behind them I stood on the sled, often mesmerized by their swift movements that provided the only sound on the trail.
We had been dog sledding before on several occasions, but never quite like this. Dog sledding in the Arctic is not like dog sledding in Colorado. We were racing 300 kms inside of the Arctic Circle, each running our own team, and feeling for the very first time that this is how dog sledding was intended to be.
We began our experience by touring the Hetta Huskies Farm. The grounds are well laid out and clean – the dogs are organized by age, level of health, sex, and there’s even the enviable “Hilton” for mothers who just gave birth. Photos and spreadsheets are posted on boards throughout as a display of the various systems in place. The 150 dogs are managed according to such complex formulas that I began to refer to it as puppy tetris. (There’s even a tracking system to ensure that the male dogs have their, um, crown jewels checked thrice weekly. A quick massage with honey will ensure that they don’t get frozen.)Detailed spreadsheets keep track of mileage and ensure that dogs are not overrun, and that certain dogs are not run with others (not everyone gets along, you see). Teams are formed by sex (to prevent accidental pregnancies), and so on. The permutations and combinations of what must be considered are endless, and even after years of doing it, are still being figured out.
Aknil and Obama weren’t making my job easy. It was sometimes a challenge to begin with, given the thickness of the snow with a minimally worn track. The dogs would fight their way through the fluffy stuff, I’d step off often to jog between the runners and give them an easier go. Aknil and Obama, however, had other ideas.
They were constantly yipping at each other. And every time they did, a burst of energy would course through the team and we’d surge ahead, often coming far too close to our guide in front. I rode the brake constantly and just hoped that these internal grievances of my dog team wouldn’t take us completely off track.
We finally made a stop so that a change could be made, another version of puppy tetris was underway. Obama was unhooked and picked up to be carried off to another team, Aknil stayed in the power position directly in front of me, and another was brought and tethered kitty corner. Their gripes would be noted on one of the many spreadsheets upon our return.
This was one of many changes over the day in an attempt to balance speed, power, and rapport. Once the final combinations were set, we were a steady line of three bundled humans with five dogs each, powering us over the Arctic expanse.
Aknil the trouble maker.
The weather was surprisingly hospitable. At only -10c, there were times we were even sweating in our heavy snow suits, especially when we had to help the dogs run up hills or over drifts that formed via fierce wind the previous day.
Our nourishment and rest at the end of the first day came in the form of hot reindeer stew and then fried cheese for dessert, all served in the glow of a grand kota recently built on the property. The warmth came not only from the central fire, reindeer pelts that we slept on and the sleeping bags provided, but the cuddle partners that were included as a part of the excursion. Four of them in total were let in to sleep with us, one nestled in on the other side of my pillow. Each time I raised my head to turn my body over, I could hear his tail thumping against the wall in anticipation of affection. Only once did he wake me as I slept though, nuzzling his wet nose against my forehead. A quick stroke of his fur settled him, and he left his nose on my pillow. (I did not mind one bit.)
Except that a good rest was very necessary. This was not a normal tourist excursion (besides the facts that we were tourists on an excursion). It felt like a grand adventurous expedition.
Dogs in my bed.
“We call those the Indiana Jones moments,” our guide said, as I relived several of my mishaps throughout our two days. Over the seventy plus kilometers we traveled, twice I fell off but managed to hold on, but there were many other instances I was close to losing it all. I once stepped off the sled to run with the dogs but sunk waist deep in the snow – I had to tip the sled on its side to get off the Teflon runners and force more of its surface area into the deep bank and stop the dogs from dragging me. Other times the dogs took corners so closely that the sled ended up almost at ninety degrees, it took a quick jump off and run alongside to avoid spilling entirely. But each time I followed the number one rule of dog sledding: to never let go. (Pete didn’t fair as well, having let the entire team go just an hour into our first day.) By the end of our long second day, we both ached. It was not quite the endurance activity that it was for the dogs, but it was intense nonetheless.
At other times, I was blissfully wooed into relaxation. Our guide had warned us not to lose concentration when it would get comfortable, but I didn’t understand how that was even possible until the night drive. My head lamp reached far enough to see the lead dog, but no further – my trust was in the team to get me back safely. I rode the runners like I did skis, loosening my body such that my weight automatically shifted with the curves in the drive. The dogs glided effortlessly under a heavily veiled moon. The silence was pure and peaceful. Big snowflakes blew on my face and formed an actual snowball in my exposed hair, but I didn’t feel the cold.
A quick burst in speed shook me out of my reverie and meant that we were nearing home. The dogs were excited to be pulling us in and could hear the call from their farm-mates who were howling in anticipation of our arrival. I held tight but let the brake go entirely so that I could get a last bit of thrill coming around the corner into the farm.
how to do it
Hetta Huskies offers everything from day trips to multiple-day excursions, and even has a well sought-after program for volunteers. We were extremely impressed with the farm and their commitment to the well-being of the dogs.
“Go to Prague,” you said when we tasked you with deciding our next journey. Secretly, we had hoped you would choose another.
Charles Bridge at Dusk
Not for any meaningful reason. We will admit to being wooed by the more off-beat destination of Tallinn, which would also have been just a quick sail across the Gulf of Finland from Helsinki. Prague is such a beautiful city with so much to do. Whether you are visiting Prague with kids, a couple or flying solo, there is something for everyone.
And, although it is one of those places where we felt like we had seen it a million times before (even without having been there) – we’ve all seen the morning photos of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle lit up at night. We knew that Prague was a destination we would visit someday, but our desire was not immediate.
But we were dutiful, listened to you, and went straight to Prague from Helsinki.
And after three weeks in the city, there is one thing we can say for sure about the capital of Czechia: she’s a charmer.
Upon arrival, we approached the city like any other. We went straight for the heart of the historical center and the more tourist-y sections, to “knock those off the list”, so to say. With dear friends from Amsterdam in town with us for the first few days, we took in the Castle, the Jewish Quarter, we wandered as far as our feet would take us.
And, like in many other cities, my interest was piqued. The intrigue to learn about a location rarely sets in prior to our arrival – it’s once we’ve been immersed that the sudden urge is upon me. I usually start with digesting the basic Wikipedia page (in the absence of any planned tour with locals in Prague, another good first step), and then let myself be guided from there, stumbling wherever my interest takes me.
Except that for Prague, I never made it off the first page – not for lack of interest but for my short attention span, given its massive complexity. Over 1,100 years in existence, the city has been claimed by many, survived floods and wars, actually coined the word “defenestration” (the deliberate act of throwing people out of windows), remained fairly unscathed through WWII, and then celebrated the most amicable break-up in history when the Czech Republic and Slovakia separated with a handshake.
Its history is complex and twisty and worthy of knowing – but I instead found myself more swept up in the city it is today. Prague is impossibly beautiful, provocative, quirky, incredibly diverse, and begging to be roamed aimlessly.
Pete, perhaps the most grumbly about the choice of Prague, quickly fell into adoration. I had, in all honesty, not seen him as inspired by the camera for a very long time. He would be gone for hours, always finding new angles to capture, bouncing into the room and demanding my attention to share his best. And while his first love is for landscapes, he found himself often enraptured by the little details. (This explains the abundance of photos for this post.)
Our Favourite Pictures of Prague
Prague Architecture
The Little Details
So we have to hand it to you, our readers, for choosing Prague, as it became a real highlight of all our travels in Europe. We should really have you make more of our decisions for us. These pictures of Prague really are some of our favourite photos in all of our travels.
“We’re okay!” I called out in between fits of laughter. In the dark, Pete and I could hear the guides racing to our side, nearly invisible to us as the headlights from our snowmobile pointed skyward. There was not one inch of us that was harmed, nor the machine, but we constantly reassured our dutiful guides that there was no need for alarm.Up until that point in which I drove off track, into a massive snowbank and tipping the snowmobile on top of us, many were unbelieving when I said that it was my first time. I couldn’t fully explain why that was either – Pete’s excuse was his city upbringing, but mine was much more of a stretch. I grew up in the vast frozen north of Alberta and while my family never owned a machine, I could name plenty of friends and extended family members who did. And even in my adult years, two of our best friends are avid snowmobilers and have invited us out on countless occasions. For whatever reason, we never took them up on it.
Apparently it took a trip to northern Finland to get me on a machine. And not just once, but three times in as many days.
On day one we flew in straight stretches across the Bothnian Bay from Kemi, beaming under our helmets with the first bright sun we’d seen in Lapland. Within an hour we encountered a sled dog team, a fisherman, and a man walking with his one-reindeer-open-sleigh. Only in Lapland, we resolved – acknowledging that this experience would be as unique as they come.Pete even let me do the majority of the driving so he could wield his camera. So by the third day, on one of two excursions in Rovaniemi, as we lay on a pillow of snow with the snowmobile lying on top of us, I will admit that part of the reason we were in that position was that I had gotten a little cocky. I was thrilled with the power of the machine to cruise over the frosty terrain at the slight twist of the throttle and its ability to take us where we could otherwise not go. And I relished the idea that I was probably even impressing Pete, knowing that he considers me too cautious and perhaps a bit wimpy at times. I revved higher, I took corners faster.
And right into snow banks, apparently. I could feel the machine being pulled and my Canadian winter driving instincts kicked in – I eased off the throttle and only gently tried to steer against the pull. What I should have done, instructed later by my snowmobiling friend back home, was to follow her poetic advice: “if in doubt, throttle out!” I now know for next time.
The irony was that I had tipped it just meters before the parking spot. Moments earlier I had been sitting inside a warm kota, sipping sweet hot fruit juice and roasting sausages, learning about the myths and realities of aurora borealis from our guide. Pete was outside, standing knee-high in a pile of snow, taking photo after photo, hoping to capture the elusive lights with his lens even though his eyes couldn’t see them. He burst back in to coax us out when the green had appeared. They were beginning, with no doubt, and our guide suggested that we pack up and head to higher ground.
By the time we raced through the woods, tipped the machine, righted it, and set the camera back up to capture the lights, the aurora had not improved and actually appeared to be dimming. Pete and I were eager to wait it out but our time was winding up, and those around us began to shiver from the cold while our slight adrenaline rush combated that on our behalf.
My ego crushed a little, Pete drove from the silence of the woods towards the bright lights of Rovaniemi. I held tight on back as we dodged trees and bounced over ridges in the snow. The grin on my face would last the night and well into the next day after we boarded machines again to visit a reindeer farm down river. As a part of a large group, the scene on the river was busier by daylight and the going was slower.
Which was a good thing, I suppose, as it kept me in check. Because all I wanted to do was test my limits once again.
how to do it
All three of our excursions were with excellent guides and gave us unique experiences each time.In Kemi, the guide from Lapponia Safaris showed us all the highlights along the bay and also set us up for some snowshoeing on an island.
In Rovaniemi, Lapland Safaris offers a wide variety of excursions and we were thrilled to get to test out two. Tipping the snowmobile was solely my own fault and the guides were quick to respond and absolutely attentive.
Silence is a resource. It is an invisible force for good, although an oft-forgotten and under-utilized one.
In the busyness of daily life it is easy to forget to stop. To slow down. To rediscover how nourishing even a small dose of peace and calm can be for the soul.
Silence is on tap in Finland. Even in the busiest city, no one is ever more than a few minutes from nature and the stillness that accompanies it. And as a dear friend in Helsinki told us of the quiet outside of the city: the closer you get to nature, the less words are needed.
Is that purely based on strict efficiency of communication or is Finland a country full of introverts?
Either way, I am so in.
Our last stops in Finland were in the heart of the Lakeland region where there are quite literally too many lakes to count (although acknowledged that there are at least 55,000), of which one is Lake Saimaa, the fifth largest lake in Europe. It wasn’t until someone pointed it out to us that we noticed we were on tiny stretches of land surrounded by water – all we saw were scattered forests against blank white fields. And barely a vehicle to be concerned of as we drove on snowy roads, sometimes led astray by our navigation system which appeared as confused by the landscape as we were.
After the frantic pace we’d been keeping for a couple of weeks prior, these last few days were to be spent indulging in Finland’s greatest natural resource of silence, and they were most welcome. I envisioned feet outstretched in front of a toasty fire for hours, a book welded to my hand and pyjamas adorned for several days on end. That’s how I do a retreat. That is, however, not how the Finnish do a retreat.
They have other ideas.
Theirs involves stepping out of a cozy cocoon and back into nature.
It started with skates and kicksleds at the Järvisydän resort, a property on a pristine edge of Saimaa Lake that dates back to the 17th century. From there, a 18km track is maintained across the lake and around islands. Much of the shoreline is dotted with homes, most are empty, summer play things of boats and the like are pulled in and hidden away. The lake was ours to enjoy, with nothing but the creak of blade on ice to unsettle our peace.
Fast forward a couple of days to our final stay not far from the town Mikkeli, tucked away in a small enclave of Rock and Lake cottages, we had really found the silence we longed for. There was plenty of time for my kind of retreat, but we also emerged to indulge the Finnish ways – and like our first skating excursion – we were pleased we did. The moderate temperatures we had enjoyed throughout our entire stay held during our final days, making a horse-drawn carriage ride all the more pleasurable, as well as our last test of ice fishing.
Although, it must be said, taking me fishing is a sure way to break any peace and silence. Because let’s face it – fish are gross.
Our Rock and Lake Cottage.Fish are gross.
And of course, the optimal experience of Finnish peace and silence ends in the sauna. There are a variety of sauna experiences to undertake: some in larger public houses that are less silent than others in private spaces that can be as quiet as you prefer. Spoiler alert: the latter is what I prefer, where the only sound is the sizzle of water tossed on the hot rocks.
Järvisydän Resort sauna sitting room.Järvisydän traditional sauna
how to do it
Our stay at Järvisydän was brief but lovely – with modern suites set out across the property – we were a short walk to their divine sauna and a little further to the restaurant with a sincere commitment to locally sourced ingredients and high quality cuisine. Beyond the skating, there are plenty of outdoor activities on the property.
Rock and Lake are more than just cozy cottages – the community is committed to providing all the services you need for an exceptional holiday in the lake country, including guided fishing tours.
