Category: Canada

We’ve been to many restaurants over the years that claim “farm-to-table” menus, and they all do provide that, to some extent. Before dining at Maison de Soma, however, we had never gone to an establishment that embraces it so fully.

And we mean fully. On their 600+ acre farm, they raise animals and plants that provide what they serve. They have organic gardens, a nursery just for peppers (well-moderated heat is a passion of the team), orchards, and even their own fermentation lab in order to preserve their summer yield. If they can’t grow it themselves, or find it from a local producer, they don’t use it. This means no tropical ingredients including staples like citrus or olive oil. And this also means that boundless creativity is essential to their success.

Success that they have quickly found. Recently named one of the best new restaurants in Canada by Enroute Magazine, our evening sampling their seasonal menu unmistakably demonstrated why. Favourites included the mapo pork and tofu with house-baked bread, fire-rilled bison with smashed potato topped with their famous chien sauce, and steamed trout quenelles and dashi. But the stand out was the dessert: a beet and ginger cake, with cream cheese made in-house. No other meal we’ve had tasted as fresher, or as thoughtfully put together. Ever.

Dining at Maison de Soma was a highlight of our trip to the Laurentians, but the region’s embrace of its bountiful land does not stop there. It permeates everything they offer, and everything we enjoyed.

Other Things to do in the Laurentians

Sentier des Cimes (Mont-Blanc)

One way to fully appreciate the Laurentians is to see it from above, as such it was fitting that our outdoor adventure began with a visit to Sentier des Cimes. Its intent is to give visitors an awe-inspiring view of the region from a soaring 40-metre high tower, with mountains and lush forestscapes stretched out below.

Our planned timing may have been fitting, but the weather hampered our visit. While we made it to the top of the tower, howling wind and snow prevented us from seeing much. The photos below are what visitors would see on a better weather day.

Our visit was not without its perks, however. The interactive boardwalk broadened our knowledge of the region with helpful placards, and the small bird-feeding section held our attention for as long as we could stand the cold (so many chickadees and squirrels!).

And on our return to the centre, the onsite restaurant Chez Emile warmed us up with hot apple cider, baguettes stuffed with fondue cheese and more in a picnic box, served as we snuggled up at the outside firepit with snow falling gently around us.

Gourmet Sauvage (Mont-Blanc)

Onsite at the Sentier des Cimes is a small gourmet shop that is unlike any we’ve seen before. Gourmet Sauvage is focused on northern gastronomy, over 100 hand-picked unique products are processed artisanally in their own kitchen. We walked away with a bagful of goodies we had never seen before: sweet clover extract, marinated hearts of cattails, balsam fir jelly, to name a few. These rare Laurentians ingredients also make their way into body care items, spices, and more.

Tremblant (Mont-Tremblant)

The raison d’être for many visitors to the Laurentians region is to spend time at the Tremblant resort. Justifiably so, careening down the slopes of Mont Tremblant by ski or snowboard is a worthy endeavour (as Pete can attest to), and there is a lot of fun to be had in the small pedestrian village, even for non-skiers.

Scandinave Spa (Mont-Tremblant)

This Nordic spa is so close to Tremblant, it should be a required visit for any resort vacationers. The afternoon following Pete’s time skiing, we booked in for a few hours in this nourishing and relaxing outdoor space. We’ve been to several of these types of outdoor spas now, but this might be our favourite for two notable reasons. First: the layout, with small breakout spots everywhere, it is conducive to finding an intimate corner to wile away time in. Second is the spa’s commitment to providing the utmost tranquil environment; despite asking all to be quiet, it is inevitable that some patrons will talk during their visit. However, in some parts, any conversation is barely discernible due to the excellent use of waterfalls which also provide essential white noise.

One other unique feature is their fitting embrace of their environment in the form of a dip in the river. Cold showers and plunges, essential to the full thermal cycle experience, are common at Nordic spas, but none that we have been to in Canada included the natural environment like this. We didn’t partake (the temp was just at the freezing mark), and instead spent most of our hours rotating from hot pool to comfortable loungers under the heat lamps. Pete, ever the adventurer, plunged in the cold pool twice (at a more palatable 10C). He was refreshed, alert, and became fully relaxed after doing so.

Kanatha-Aki Nature Centre (Val-des-Lacs)

Kanatha-Aki is a centre that provides visitors all kinds of opportunities to connect with nature. For us, it was via a morning of dogsledding.

This was a nostalgic experience for me. My family had two sled dogs for a short while growing up: Gopher and Babes. At first sight of their harnesses, they both would howl in anticipation, knowing that my sisters and I were about to hook them up to our toboggan to go for a run. We’d whip around the snowy streets of our small hamlet, and undoubtedly end up tangled around the one stop sign in town thanks to Babes (Gopher was older and well-trained).

Our sled dog team from Kanatha-Aki, led by their owner Felix, was just as excitable, but much better trained. Ice Cube and Hannah Montana, along with eight other dogs with rock star names, raced us around the maze of paths near the centre. The snow was plentiful and the sky was mostly blue, which was the perfect combination for a beautiful morning spent there. After our hour with the dogs, we were treated to a fondue lunch inside the cozy lodge, and warmed ourselves with the company of other visitors and the charming atmosphere.

Au Petit Poucet (Val-David)

A first thought of many people when discussing Québec, both in Canada and abroad, is that of maple syrup. And that thought is not misplaced: Québec produces 90% of Canada’s syrup from its vast forests, and the province is the leading producer in the entire world.

And while you may be hard pressed to find a menu in the Laurentians that doesn’t include maple syrup in some capacity, any visitor to the region then should make a stop at Au Petit Poucet to see it in a variety of forms, in complete kitchsy Québecois glory.

The restaurant is a wood cabin adorned in buffalo plaid, complete with cracklin’ fireplaces and many spruce and pine boughs, a stuffed bear, a stuffed moose head, and hunting and trapping tools hanging on walls. The menu is dense and full of traditional items; it’s a great place for any visitor to try their first tourtière or sugar pie, and you can even get the maple syrup taffy experience brought to your table (where maple syrup is poured over crushed ice and rolled up on a stick like a lollipop as it hardens).

The town the restaurant resides in, Val-David, is a charmer all its own. The small village boasts a surprising number of attractions given its size, and we spent an hour hopping into stores on the main street. Some intriguing ones were sadly closed during our visit, and when we asked one store attendant about things to do in town, she first asked how much time we had. Beyond the town’s borders is a wilderness set up for playing in – think oodles of cross-country skiing trails in winter, and bike or hike trails in summer. And that’s just for starters.

Héli-Tremblant (Mont-Tremblant)

Our last planned activity in the Laurentians had us viewing the region from above once again. Our brief, ten-minute journey by Héli-Tremblant took us over the roads we drove in on, the tower we climbed, and the mountain that Pete skied down. Much of the area, covered in a thick layer of white snow, looked graceful and inviting, which was symbolic of our previous three days, including the many engaging people we met.

I couldn’t help but wonder about summer and autumn though, to see this region explode in greens, golds, and reds would be a marvel. We are both eager to return to the Laurentians and find out.

I am finally writing this as snow flies outside for the first time since early spring of this year. As soon as I woke I opened the front door a crack to let in a rush of cool air and freshness like only the first frost can bring.I’ve been waiting for this day. Not only because I do enjoy cooler weather, but also because I’ve been aching to finally publish what I’ve been musing about since our trip to experience a Yukon winter last February. (It always seems somewhat inappropriate to post something from one season when the next one is starting, and especially when people are excited for the change. I enjoy winter but last year’s was a longggg one.)

Well now that winter has landed, I want to make my annual plea for everyone to embrace it. And there are few places in the world that can inspire an endorsement of the iciest season better than the Yukon Territory.

Yukon is, quite literally, the epitomy of the Great, White, and North. And that has to be part of its fantastic appeal and why winter tourism in the territory is on the rise. It may take a brave soul (and a lot of layers of clothing), but for those with an adventurous spirit, there are plenty of good times to be had.Especially in February!

yukon sourdough rendezvous festival

On the shortest day of the year, December 21st, residents of Whitehorse experience only 5 and a half hours of daylight. In mid-February, at the start of the Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous, sunlight time has grown to just over 9 hours. You better believe that residents are ready to embrace all of those extra minutes and then some. Rendezvous is a full-on celebration of the emergence from winter. The snow may still be flying and temperatures dipping far below freezing, but that stops no one. With everything from dog costume parades to hard water canoe races to flour packing, and yes, even hairiest leg competitions (why shave in winter?), Rendezvous is a truly unique festival.

This was where we saw people throwing logs and axes, a pretty epic drag show (for the crowning of the “Sourdough Sam”), and the very best cancans that we ever did see. And this is also where we met the most locals who were as endearing as they were entertaining, and who even caused us to contemplate a move up there (and we still talk about it). That’s how special this festival is.

Takhini Hot Springs

After witnessing much of the festival in a swirl of winter outside, plans to warm up should follow. Not far from Whitehorse is the Takhini Hot Springs.

The outdoor pools are the perfect antidote to chilled bones, and even though I typically eschew such “human soup” experiences, I lingered for a good long time, even if it wasn’t quite Yukon winter at its most boisterous (it was about -10C when we visited). I was, in all honesty, even a little disappointed by the “warm” temperature, as it prevented me from an attempt to enter the hair-freezing contest that is a part of the Rendezvous Festival.

Yukon Wildlife Preserve

Just a few kilometers from the Hot Springs is the Yukon Wildlife Preserve, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving its 700 acres of land and the array of beings that inhabit it, all of which are native to the territory. Against the magnificent setting are eleven animal species and ninety of birds.

The passion of the staff for the animals is highly apparent and encouraging to witness. We were so glad to book one of the tours, not only to access their wealth of knowledge, but for the warmth of the bus in between stops on the preserve.

Kluane National Park

To truly appreciate the conditions and landscape that the people and wildlife of the territory are a part of, soar above to see it in all its glory. A flight over one Kluane, one of the most scenic National Parks in Canada, is a must (as are some anti-nausea meds, if you have a sensitive tummy like me).

We were so close it felt as if we could reach our hands out of the plane and touch the tips of the St. Elias mountain tops. Rock faces broke through clouds, and frozen rivers weaved and forged through the landscape into Kluane Lake. There was a seemingly endless freeway of ice from the glaciers that twisted and turned through the valley. We even caught a glimpse of the highest mountain in Canada, Mount Logan, as it peeked through some clouds.

All Kinds of Wintery fun

How does snowmobiling to a frozen lake for a bit of hiking and a game of shinny hockey sound? Throw in some campfire treats and this is the ultimate Canadian winter experience. We found ourselves on Caribou Lake for these exact reasons and between all the activities, plus making snow angels and just admiring the bluebird-sky day, we wiled away hours in the fresh, crisp air.

Aurora Spotting

The chances of seeing the northern lights while in the Yukon during winter are substantial, as long as the skies are clear. (That is an important caveat.) The best months are August through April, and even with low aurora activity, the far northern location means viewing the lights is still very possible.

It was on our last night, while staying at the incomparable Inn on the Lake, when the magic happened. Although they aurora yet viewable to the human eye, Pete caught the famous green glow on his camera and ushered everyone outside to wait for them to dance.

And it wasn’t just an aurora show on display, but Pete captured a significant moment for a sweet young couple we had just met from Mexico. When the lights came into view, he dropped to one knee, and she said yes. They had journeyed a great distance for that moment, and on their last night, the opportunity finally came.

It was a case of right place, right people, right time, and left a lasting impression. (We can’t guarantee such an enchanting moment for everyone when they visit the Yukon. But we can all hope, right?)

As a child, Pete camped in Prince Albert National Park with his family a couple of times. Too young to remember many details, he said the strongest memory he has is of leaving the area to return home to Edmonton. He bawled on his way out of the small townsite of Waskesiu. He told me that he had so much fun making new friends at the beaches that he didn’t want his time there to end.

Upon our invite to explore the area in all its winter glory, we didn’t hesitate to accept and arrived in mid-January. Pete was eager to see what he remembered. I was eager to see if he’d be able to keep it together this time.

“What’s your wolf strategy?” Our guide Brad asked as we drove out of Waskesiu to do some wildlife spotting. My initial thought was to respond with: umm, scream and run? But then I realized that he was subtly referring to the fact that our camera sat loosely between us and rendered useless if we were afforded only a quick sighting. With Pete’s hands on the steering wheel, I took up the charge, holding the heavy camera body in my lap with one finger on the trigger.

It was a surprise to me that seeing wolves was even a possibility, figuring that they are strictly elusive, but Brad assured me that they can be curious. And in Prince Albert National Park, they are also plentiful. I had never seen one in real life before.

Just a few minutes out of Waskesiu we were surprised by another species — two large elk sauntered across the road in front of us, unbothered by our presence. Thanks to my prepared wolf strategy, my trigger finger was able to get off a couple of shots before shadows from the tree-lined road hid the optimal light from my lens. It would be our only wildlife sighting from our couple of hours of viewing — the wolves remained elusive, and the spot where we had hoped to see otters was too frozen over. Witnessing the free-roaming bison would involve too far of a drive for our short stay.

No matter, there is so much more to do in the area anyway.

Prince Albert National Park encompasses 3,874 square kilometers of boreal forest and encompasses the merging of the northern and southern ecosystems. The park itself was formed in the late 1920s for tourism and recreation, and only in the 50s did people begin to realize how important it is for preservation.

Hence the world-class concentration of wildlife, and part of the draw for people from all over the country and world. Notably, one of Canada’s most well-known naturalist and conservationist, Grey Owl, lived in the park in solitude and wrote books from it for many years. (And was even played by Pierce Brosnan in a feature film about his life.)

For almost one hundred years the protected park has become a playground for both animals and humans alike. After our quick attempt at wildlife viewing and several stops along the way to capture quintessential winter scenes, we eagerly turned our attention to the other activities offered.

There are many options available, but only one place to start.

Hawood Inn, located within the townsite of Waskesiu, generously houses equipment of all kind. Cross-country skis, snowshoes, and more are available for free loan, and we loaded up all possibilities in our vehicle to have on hand and use depending on the situation in front of us.

With forty-seven kilometers of well-groomed cross-country ski trails available, we were both eager to attempt at least one. We have never historically been very good at the sport on the several occasions we have tried it in the past, but without doubt, this was my favourite experience in the park. While the temperatures read well below freezing, no wind was present among the trees surrounding the Fisher Trail. Nor was any sound but the swish of our movements through the forest. The snow was plentiful, the terrain was gentle, and the sun rays continuously split through the coniferous trees as the bluebird sky stretched overhead. Our limited abilities failed to matter in such a perfect setting.

Hawood Inn, also our home for a couple of nights, allowed us to cap off perfect days with a soak in their rooftop hot tub. (By us, I mean Pete, as I’m never a huge fan of indulging ‘human-soup-containers’. But he enjoyed it thoroughly and even took the opportunity to try freezing his hair, an authentic Canadian experience we learned about in Yukon but never were able to partake in while we were there.)

On the outside edge of Prince Albert National Park is also Elk Ridge Resort — a year-round retreat with a special affinity for indulging winter fantasies. Besides being an obvious magnet for wedding parties to its gorgeous property, it also can be a temporary home for anyone who likes to curl up in front of a cozy fireplace with a drink in hand. Spa-goers and fine diners will also be very pleased with what is on offer. As will anyone in snow pants.

We eagerly shoved our bags in our room and ran outside to do as much as we could before the early evening crept in. Surrounding the expansive hotel are a variety of activity stations. An outdoor skating rink with hockey equipment is nearby, a miniature sheet of curling ice, signposts marking cross-country skiing trails, plus ample trails for tramping (perfect for us snowshoeing beginners). But what had our attention most eagerly was the crokicurl.

As avid curlers, this life-size hybrid of curling and crokinole has long fascinated us. (And by long, I mean since its inception in Winnipeg just a few years ago). We were enamoured by the curling rocks made of hockey pucks (does it get any more Canadian than that?) and squealed so much about our intense game that I am sure patrons inside the hotel heard us.

As it goes in the north in winter months, darkness fell in the late afternoon and we called it a day (after Pete finally wiped the ice with me in crokicurl). I forgave him over drinks and dinner by the aforementioned fireplace. The meal helped to smooth it over — brussel sprouts with wild boar, braised elk tips and the best truffle oil mashed potatoes I’ve had in a long time. We slept snuggly and deeply until our early morning rise to begin the trek home.

I watched Pete’s face as we pulled away, waiting for any sign of waterworks to begin. It had been over 30 years since his last visit, and this time he managed to keep his emotions in check. Although I expect that the maturity gained over the years caused his tears to turn to smiles as he was beaming plenty. As was I. This little winter escape to a little winter town in a large national park was packed full of more fun than either of us had imagined.

how to do it

If traveling north from Saskatoon, access to the national park is located on Highway #2, and the townsite of Waskesiu is just minutes from the main highway. Bustling with tourists in the summer, the winter season will provide a bit of a trade off — fewer crowds for a couple more layers of clothing.

Driving the area surrounding Waskesiu provides a perfect sample of the park. You don’t have to venture too far off the main paths to feel like you are somewhere completely secluded and in nature. Just be sure to have your wolf strategy prepared.

Hawood Inn was comfortable and perfectly equipped to make a winter vacation in the park enjoyable. Be sure to also stop at the Parks Canada office for current information. Also, as usual, we found that having a guide early in our stay amplified the experience for us — we learned a lot about the area in a very short time period.

5 am and the sun is just rolling over the horizon. I’m already on the road and can see the rays finding their way through the idle rail cars along Highway 3, heading west. This drive is always one of my favourites. Peaks of the majestic Rocky Mountains stretch across my windshield. And today I have time to take the slower route along the Cowboy Trail.

I’m riding solo and off to explore a region that I’ve never spent much time in apart from a quick stop for fuel. For me, just west of Calgary is a new frontier and a part of Alberta I have not frequented. But I’m excited that in this little area around Sundre, Alberta, between the Rockies and the Prairies, is where David Thompson once stood and discovered this “prairie on the mountain”. He stood on the doorstep of what is now Banff National Park, and had a complete panoramic view of the Rocky Mountains.

I’m off to experience the land centuries after Thompson set foot here, where early settlers ventured in order to start a new life. Although life certainly did not come easy for the ranchers. It wasn’t the typical flat prairie life, but instead land which needed to be cleared in order for ranches to be built and cattle and horses to roam. But those who did the work were rewarded. The land was resource rich, there was plenty of wildlife for food, and the aqua blue rivers such as the Panther and the Red Deer were full of fish.

And now, nearly 200 years later, you can still see the roots that were planted. Cowboys and ranchers still line the route from Sundre to Clearwater county. The differences being that today, my foray into this frontier is via a modern chariot and a path that has already been set out.

I am here to learn about Sundre and this frontier in a number of surprising ways.

Sundre Museum and Pioneer Village

The museum and village serve as a reminder to preserve the past. Many of the locals have contributed to the exhibits or to the Historical Society by giving demonstrations of how the ways of the village once were. Visitors can look inside an old school house, a ranger station, a ferryman house, trappers cabin, a chapel, and more in which they keep memories and an archive.

Inside the museum, the artifacts along with the exhibits show a virtual timeline of the town. I learn how the town’s name came to be, named after the early 1900’s postmaster who came here from the Norwegian town of “Søndre”. Once he purchased land, the village adopted the English name of Sundre, and the rest is history.

Painted Warriors

For one morning I was a guest at the Painted Warriors ranch. I was given a tour of the multi-acre property and given an explanation of the various wildlife that wander amongst. I was shown how to live off the land how the locals have done so for hundreds of years. I learned to shoot a bow and arrow (and I quickly find out I have a bit of talent for it). I discovered what plants, or what I would normally think to be merely common weeds, can serve as teas, ointments and food, and a glimpse into how to survive in the wilderness.

Beyond giving tourists a taste of traditional ways, the company also trains aboriginal guides. Tracey, one of the owners and operators explained: “We recognize the need for authentic aboriginal tour guides and we provide training programs that will bring more qualified aboriginal guides forward.”

I tried to retain everything I was taught. I kept track of the various plants and uses for each, especially in teas. I stored away some tricks to starting fires with a flint and steel and tinder fungus and petroleum jelly. And of course I tried to remember all of the techniques Tracey taught me using the bow for my next archery challenge. (Three hours whizzed by and as an avid Alone fan, I quickly inquiried about returning to Painted Warriors to partake in the survival training for being in the wilderness for an extended amount of time.)

Mukwah Rafting

The first explorers to the Sundre and Clearwater regions must have been amazed by the winding pristine rivers. As a fellow Albertan I thought of the Red Deer River as the perfect river to throw a tube in and enjoy a day slowly drift by. I was preparing for such with Mukwah’s Rafting white water expedition as I drove from Sundre out towards where the Panther River meets the Red Deer.

The company’s motto of “Expect the Unexpected” sure held true as I was not expecting the “gnarly” white water and technically class four rapids.

Mukwah, which means bear by the Ojibway tribesman, is seen as the great protector. Ryan and his crew made sure of every precaution and safety measure. The adventure lasted for nearly two hours and had me heeding many commands to try my best to just stay in the raft, motivated not to get plunged into the icy chilled river. We battled rapids curiously named Fluffy Bunny, Moustache Ride and Chainsaw Accident.

And I was fooled by their names, expecting a nonchalant minor thrill and instead greeted with an adrenalin-filled wall of water that tried every which way to toss all of us into the glacier water. We prevailed with huge grins and on the bus ride back to base camp we all chatted about the river condition, which changes almost daily. The melt this year is going to provide some pretty awesome rafting, and if my experience is any indication, Mukwah’s customers are in for some fun-filled afternoons on the Red Deer River.

Ryan has a passion for what he does. Approximately 30 years ago some friends of his dragged him out to give him his first white water experience. Three years later Ryan purchased Mukwah, and 27 years after that, his passion still hasn’t been snuffed. Even the floods of 2013 couldn’t deter him from stopping. He pointed out debris along the river, kilometers from the base where we set off, which once stood on his property. It’s left where it landed as a reminder of the power of mother nature, and it’s only a matter of time until it happens again. But Ryan and his crew have learned to “expect the unexpected,” ride it out, and let the river run its course.

Sunset Guiding

“You see them clouds behind the mountains, we’ll get some rain this afternoon,” Merle said before walking off to get the horses ready.

I stood with Stu trying to see what “clouds” Merle was talking about. Stu explained that Merle doesn’t rely on a forecast from a 4 inch screen. Instead, he lets the mountain speak to him. I had my doubts as the early morning sun beat down. All I could think of was applying enough sunscreen to make sure I was protected while out on our three hour journey.

Merle, the operator of Sunset Guiding for back country horse rides, guided us through pasture into the forest and up the mountain. My trusted steed Snip managed to bring me up the mountain to share the same view that David Thompson must have seen. The Rocky Mountains stood in their glory and we all took time to admire the panorama.

This view is something Merle is used to seeing but says it doesn’t get old. And when it does, he ventures over to another area and finds more trails to explore.

Having the chance to ride these trails as the explorers once did allowed me to see areas not accessible by anyone. It was certainly worth the sore hips to see the true beauty of the region. On the way down I remembered to look up to the sky. Sure enough, the clouds had rolled in and it started to sprinkle. The mountain had spoken, I just didn’t hear it. Maybe if spent a little more time out here I would eventually.

The Evolution

From settlement to village to the now-town of Sundre, a lot has happened since 1909. No longer is Sundre a stop solely for local ranchers and workers. It showcases its history combined with offering a range of establishments that make for a perfect weekend getaway.

The pristine Sundre Golf Club challenges any golfer to keep it on the fairway and not end up in the trees. The ribs, meats and sandwiches from Kodiak BBQ and Deli are delicious and I didn’t have room for dessert with the big portions.

And to work off my meals I wandered through Snake Hill park, exploring trails, often forgetting that I was in the middle of the town.

The biggest draw for me was my ability to get in the truck and drive through pristine wilderness, snapping countless photos along the way. Gravel roads lead along the Red Deer River and brought me to 4,000 hectares of mountain prairies (Ya Ha Tinda).

Wildlife and wild horses seemed to appear from nowhere and aimlessly wander across the road without worry.

I followed the Red Deer River as it wound its way from the Rockies heading east. And I made sure to get out and explore some trails on my own and spend time at Big Horn Falls without another soul around for kilometers.

Sundre and the surrounding country is my kind of place. I’m afraid the secret’s going to get out and next time I won’t be the only one standing at these falls.

Plan Your Trip to Sundre, Alberta

Sundre is 119km north-west of Calgary following the Cowboy Trail (Highway 22). In town, I stayed at the completely upgraded Best Western Mountainview Inn and Suites and apart from being extremely comfortable, I loved that they offered free cookies. When I ventured out to the woods I was a guest at the Sunset Guides and Outfitting in a cozy little rustic cabin. The best part is that there are no cell towers and no one could disturb me. Well, except the bears.

On our first night in Churchill, Pete packed up his camera gear and set out at about 10 pm. Rustled into action by the Aurora app flashing on his phone, he ignored the heavy cloud cover we had been under since earlier that day. He held onto the hope of a break in the clouds or that the strength of the lights would at least brighten their hue.

He left the warmth of our hotel room just as an old military siren blared. I never got a definitive answer as to why the siren is still in service, given that there is no remaining military presence, but if I were to guess, I would say it still serves as an important reminder. That the streets are empty, quiet, and possibly soon to be overtaken by the world’s largest land predators.

Pete returned just a few minutes later. With his eyes focused upwards while walking on a peaceful street, hoping to see any glimmer of green cosmic light, he returned his gaze to street level and realized how utterly vulnerable he was. Realizing that at any second, he could come face-to-face with a curious polar bear. Disastrous encounters in this small northern town usually happen when people forget to respect the environment in which they are in. He did not want to be one of those statistics.

It’s Churchill’s great deception. For all its friendly residents and quiet streets that would lure visitors into feeling welcome and secure, danger lurks large, in the form of an icon of the Arctic who moves stealthily and is primarily motivated by one thing.

Hunger.

Life in Churchill, Manitoba

Accessible only by train or plane, Churchill is a tiny slice of Canadian civilization situated on the banks of Hudson’s Bay. It is situated just north of one of the least visited parks in North America – Wapusk National Park – and is well protected because of the major polar bear den area.

During seven weeks spread over October and November, polar bears can outnumber humans in the surrounding area. The bears congregate near town and wait for the Bay to freeze over so that they can begin their feeding season.

They would have gone several months since their last meal of seal blubber; the females even longer if they gave birth in dens and cut off many weeks of prime feeding while depleting their resources and nursing cubs. In between their annual quest across the frozen Bay to feast on ringed seals, they will have only eaten such things as small rodents, vegetation, and seabirds.

While deadly encounters between humans and these carnivores are rare, the power of a big appetite should not be underestimated.

The residents of Churchill are on high alert during this time when the bears are passing through. House and vehicle doors are left unlocked should anyone need immediate shelter. An alert program is in place with a 24-hour emergency number that everybody knows. Gunshots are commonly used to scare the polar bears that get too close (in one day we heard six shots in the span of a few hours).

Large bear traps can be seen in some spots surrounding the town, and a polar bear holding facility or as the locals call it, “polar bear jail”, even exists to house the ones who are not so easily deterred. The bears will be brought in and tranquillized before being held for up to thirty days; if the ice hasn’t formed on the Bay during that time, then they will be hoisted and transported safely by helicopter to a location further north.

Halloween, smack dab in the middle of bear season, is an event like none other. Residents circle the town in their vehicles while helicopters circle above to ensure that the children can safely go door-to-door after dark. Common sense would have kids avoid costumes that resemble their hungry neighbours, and dressing up as a ghost is not recommended because it blends into the white background.

And journeys into open spaces are done under the watchful eye of someone with a rifle who knows how to use it.

“You’ll see my colleague David there with a 12 gauge shotgun full of lethal ammo. He’s on polar bear patrol.” Rhonda, an interpretive guide at Cape Merry, stood on the steps of our converted school bus to explain the significance of the narrowing sliver of land in front of us, along with her own affinity to the area. She traded one northern locale (in Ontario) for another, and declared Churchill to be the home she would never leave.

Rhonda’s story was one we heard often during our short stay there, from locals and seasonal employees alike who return year after year. What continually draws them there may vary by person – while some likely shirk from the vigilance required to live in the surroundings of such powerful beasts and a harsh climate – I could absolutely acknowledge the appeal.

Not only from the challenge of both mind and body to live so remotely but also to be a part of such a close-knit community where the residents rely on each other to help preserve the safety of both themselves and the bears.

It is a tiny and quiet town, bustling for only two months of the year, but in a fascinating natural environment that can hardly be found elsewhere.

Within minutes of our arrival, we got a taste of what that life might be like. Enroute from the airport to Churchill in the converted school bus, we made a sudden stop. Our driver noticed a small male bear (with paws the size of dinner plates!) sauntering along the driver’s side in the ditch, clearly heading for the garbage facility up ahead. With walls reinforced by layers of steel, the bears are prevented from devouring the treasures inside, but the aromas emitted are still alluring.

Despite our schedule being in jeopardy, we followed the bear for some time and then drove past the building in order to check that no one would be caught outside and off-guard with the bear approaching. Thankfully, the surrounding yard was empty, save for the penned dogs whose barks eventually scared the bear off in another direction.

“That’s a bonus bear!” our guide Hayley said, referring to the fact that we had our first encounter before even venturing out onto the tundra. A bonus for us indeed, but likely not if someone had been caught unaware around the corner.

Our excitement at seeing that first giant of the north could not be overstated, though. That is what we had made the trip to Churchill for, and the best of our sightings was yet to come.

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How to Experience Churchill, Manitoba

We ventured from Winnipeg to Churchill with Frontiers North Adventures, and they offer a variety of tours for different experiences and budgets. They provided us, without a doubt, with one of the most exciting and compelling tours we have ever done, with careful respect for the environment and community of Churchill. We were well taken care of on and off the tundra, and our guide Hayley was nothing short of exceptional.

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Churchill Tours we Recommend:

Classic 5 Night Churchill Polar Bear Adventure

This is the experience of a lifetime, and you don’t have to plan a thing other than getting yourself to Winnipeg. You will experience polar bears in their natural habitat on this 5-night tour to Churchill, Manitoba.

Your flights from Winnipeg to the remote town of Churchill are included, and you will stay for 5 nights with all meals included. Not only will you get 2 days of tundra buggy-ing to see the polar bears in their home, but you will also get a true taste of life in a northern Canadian town. You will visit the Itsanitaq Museum, take a Parks Canada Interpretive Centre tour, go dogsledding and more!

This tour is only available from October through November before the bears go out onto the Arctic Ice, and these will sell out, so book early!

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Tundra Buggy Autumn Day Tours

If you plan on getting yourself up to Churchill and finding your own accommodations but want to see the polar bears, this tour will work perfectly.

NOTE – you can not venture off on your own to see the polar bears except on a tour.

On this day-long tour, you will board the tundra buggy and venture out onto the tundra to witness the majestic polar bears. Along the way, you may encounter other wildlife too, including Arctic foxes, snowy owls and more!

This tour is also only available from October through November before the bears go out onto the Arctic Ice, and these will sell out, so book early!

We all have those places – spots we’ve been to frequently but have never really visited. And such is the case of us with the city of Medicine Hat in southeastern Alberta. My father moved there several years ago and while we’ve done some limited exploring with him, we had only ever just scratched the surface. What a difference it makes to return with specific quests in mind and with full intent to explore the best of what the city has to offer.

Searching for the Best in Medicine Hat

For the best coffee.

We were, on our second day, planning to hunt for fall colours via bicycle along the shores of South Saskatchewan River in Police Point Park. The weather had other ideas for us. With a dismal forecast we instead turned our attention to activities that would keep us indoors.For a small city, Medicine Hat has a relatively strong cafe culture. Strong enough that if you were to try and crawl it all in one day, there is a high probability that you would blow past the recommended daily limits for caffeine. We took in Heartwood Cafe and Station Coffee Company, and had to opt only for Italian sodas at Café Verve as we were too wired, but the most memorable stop for us was Madhatter Coffee Roastery.

Not only for the delectable coffee (a Viennese Melange, a cappuccino made with half white milk and half chocolate, and with beans freshly roasted right in front of us, the only spot in town to do so), but also for the encouraging conversation with their new owners, Josh and Katrina. In our brief chat the excitement for their venture was clearly palpable, with ambitious and admirable plans to use their excellent relationships with coffee growers around the world to do further good for causes dear to their heart.

For hidden treasure

We were thankfully able to return to the Nature Centre in Police Point a day later, but this time venturing by foot and with our noses to the ground. We were on a quest for treasure that was hidden in tree stumps and clumps around the park.

I’m honestly a little surprised at ourselves and that we’ve never tried geocaching before, but it was fitting that we take our first hand at it in Medicine Hat, where the city is on a mission to be regarded as Alberta’s Capital of Geocaching.

The concept is simple, and it was all about the quest. Armed with a handheld GPS, we locked in coordinates and used it as guidance among the paths (and through the bushes!) to pinpoint our destination. On arrival, a small container held a notebook and sometimes other tokens to mark the victorious find. There are dozens to find within the park, and hundreds in the city of Medicine Hat itself.

We were hooked. Especially when we chased a spot down to the river and had that slice of the valley all to ourselves. It then was not at all about the small cache to be found, but about enjoying the places we never would have gotten to otherwise.

For connections with nature

Red Rock Coulee

A couple of years ago we were on a journey by camper van in New Zealand, and one of our stops was the famed Moeraki Boulders. We were stunned by the perfect spherical rocks that sat on the beach, so much so that we were up before the crack of dawn to photograph the sun splitting over them as it began its daily ascent.

Red Rock Coulee Natural Area, just a few dozen kilometers away from Medicine Hat, was so similar, and yet so stunningly unknown in comparison. How is this not a place that tourists and photographers flock to regularly? The science behind the rocks is interesting enough – they are concretions formed over millions of years into red-orange perfect spheres – but to play on them and photograph them (with no one else around!) was a really special experience. You can bet we’ll be back for sunset on another day.

Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park

East of Calgary, most of what people expect is prairie views for days. And despite some dips in the landscape because of the Canadian Badlands, that is mostly what you get. At least until you arrive at Cypress Hills, just a few dozen kilometers from the Hat.

The hills come up suddenly and unexpectedly, rising to the same altitude as Banff, and making it the highest spot of land in Canada east of the Rockies. On the day we visited the weather again was a factor, a sharp wind preventing us from taking to the small lake by canoe as we were so eager to do. Instead, we took a walk on the Old Baldy trail, soaking in all of the alpine fresh air with the town of Elkwater just below us. Had the sun been in the sky, we would have run out of hours in the day just enjoying the views and activities on offer.

For food

There are few better quests in a tourist’s journey than that to find the best local food. And Medicine Hat proved to us that the foodie movement sweeping the world does not end at the big cities. The Hat and surrounding area offer a surprising number of excellent eateries.

Camp Cookhouse

Thankfully, the weather couldn’t stop us from eating here while we were in Elkwater, as we will declare it one of the best restaurants we have ever eaten at in Alberta. Started by a Top Chef Canada contestant and her partner, the Camp Cookhouse has a small but inspirational menu that has to be tasted to believe. Make the drive for the burger, and bring friends so that you can all sample each other’s plates.

Lela’s Place (The Chocolate Shop)

Given the name, we expected to walk into a candy store with few offerings on the menu, but what we found was indeed much better: an authentic homestyle diner serving up large quantities of fresh and diverse food. Don’t expect a streamlined hipster diner of modern day, Lela’s, now known as The Chocolate Shop, has been open since the 1930s and is a true piece of the city’s history.

Local Public Eatery

Excellent food in a large pub atmosphere with a huge selection of craft beer from the two local breweries is what Local Public Eatery is best known for. Most importantly for us though was the outstanding service that can be very hard to find these days.

Paradise Valley Golf Course

Wonderful coulee views, excellent service, a surprisingly diverse and delectable menu (this butter chicken was the best we’d had in a long while), and local music to be enjoyed every Friday night – this was a spot that we didn’t expect to like as much as we did.

For the big WIN

So there are a very few things that I have found myself to be better than Pete at, and that list is very short on athletic activities (except for axe throwing, which I thoroughly kicked his axe at). Not only will the Cottonwood Coulee Golf Course be memorable to us for its dramatic coulee location and the number of deer that crossed our path on the course, but also for the fact that I beat Pete.

(He will be quick to remind me that he won on the first nine, but that I bested him on the back, but I don’t care. That will likely be my one and only win ever, making Cottonwood my favourite golf course forever and ever and ever.)

For inspiration

Alberta is Canada’s most entrepreneurial province, of which we are proud to now say that we are a part of that community. Medicine Hat has seen its share of swings with a resource based economy, but what they have done to adapt in some cases is truly impressive. Medalta is a perfect example. With rare and rich deposits of high-grade ball clays nearby, plus the abundance of natural gas supplying cheap power, Medalta was once a high-production pottery factory that employed hundreds of people during its best days.

While the plant itself is now closed, the space was preserved to hold a museum, a beautiful hall regularly holding markets, photogenic kilns used for intimate dinners and concerts, and large artist workspaces. And next door is the Medicine Hat Brick and Tile Factory, abandoned after severe flooding in 2010, but now open for an intriguing tour that is only just a little bit spooky.

With five days on hunt throughout the city, we left with still more to be discovered – art walks, a deep dive into the historic Esplanade, plus more food and coffee spots left to unearth. We’ll make that happen on our next visit with Dad.

Where to Stay in Medicine Hat

To rest in between our scouting and hunting missions, we stayed at the Home Inn, just off the TransCanada Highway, which gave us easy access to all parts of the city. Our room was spacious but cozy, which allowed us to sleep well and comfortably sit and work when we needed to.

I’m not a person who believes in making resolutions, or the fact that a turn in the calendar is required in order to start anew. But somehow 2015 feels different.I feel like we’ve earned some freedom. That after working so hard this past year and proving that we are truly capable of making our own way, we now deserve to begin the playing hard part. In fact, for the first few days of the year, I couldn’t contain my excitement, and maybe drove Pete a little nuts. While we of course still have all kinds of work to do, I struggled to sit and do it. I was bouncing, beaming, glowing.

And as I tried to explain my feelings to him later while in a downright giddy mood, he looked me in the eyes and then down at my drink. Back to my eyes, and down to my drink again. That’s not it, I asserted, even though the Verger Sour in front of me – similar to a whisky sour but doused in cinnamon – was devilishly delicious and being guzzled like juice.

We had begun our first excursion of what we expect to be a phenomenal year, and despite the temperatures dipping outside to the lowest we’d seen them in a long while, I was embracing it all with gusto. Bring it on, 2015.

Bring it on, Charlevoix.

The small city of Baie-St-Paul, the heart of the Charlevoix region, inspires as much from the outside as within. The first view is an impressive one, winding into a deep valley forged by a massive meteor millions of years ago up against the mighty Saint Lawrence river, some say it is this galactic connection that gives this area such a special feel. While it is easy to lose track of time enjoying the view from above, (like we did, gazing at the sinking sun late in the afternoon), life in the city below has just as much draw.

There is an impressive number of galleries that are representative of the vibrant and diverse community surrounding. Quaint cafes and restaurants line the quiet streets, many with a focus on supporting the local community in their offerings. And then there’s the bay itself, a small stretch against the river, we played in a mix of sand and snow for our January visit. A chill wind whipped around us, but any coastal place with beautiful light is enough to draw out our cameras and playful nature.

From there, a short drive took us directly to the Hotel La Ferme. We don’t often divulge many details about the hotels we stay at around the world, but La Ferme was a grand and inspiring experience unto itself.

And that is where I celebrated my new life view over the delectable Verger Sour, where Pete raved about a strong dark beer from a local brewery, and we gorged on some seriously creative cuisine of local specialities including lamb, foie gras, and more. This after an hour spent luxuriating in their Nordic Spa. Wearing nothing but bathing suits and toques, we carefully scattered down the stone path in -20C temperatures to the +40C tub waiting for us outside. Snow blew across the top of the water, steam rose off of bodies as they emerged, and we snuck into a dimly lit corner to soak. I insisted that we play who-could-keep-their-toes-in-the-cold-air-the-longest, but quickly lost. Back inside we alternated between the hot saunas and rubbing our skin down at the snow fountain, before enjoying the quiet room.

We did it a bit backwards though, it seemed, and we longed for the heat and relaxation of the sauna after the following day, as we happened to choose the coldest of all our time in Quebec to hit the ski hill nearby.

This isn’t a hill for beginner-beginners, our guide JB reminded us, after I made him ski an entire 5kms backwards. In truth I probably reminded him of that, given my tentativeness and sheer lack of skills, and his need to keep a watchful eye. After only truly experiencing skiing for the first time the year before, I was nervous and took to the hill so gingerly while others flew around me. The hill was busy, some of the sections a little tight, and my cocky play-hard attitude from the night before evaded me a bit. I forced us to follow the route facile signs all the way down.

My hesitance was rewarded however, when about halfway down, the trees opened up and the mighty Saint Lawrence came into view. This is the highest hill in Canada east of the Rockies, and serves up a perspective like none other.

At times it appeared that we may hit a rise and ski right off into the water. This is when I didn’t mind at all being the slow-poke on the hill – my frequent stops meant a bit more chill would creep in, but also left me to gaze in admiration at our surroundings.

After my one long run, I was spent. (Skiing with the “brakes on” all the way down is hard on the knees.) Pete continued for two more runs and I retreated to the lodge. I relaxed and took much pleasure from steaming hot chocolate, the panorama, and conversation with other skiers.

Our stay in the area and my ventures on the hill may have been brief, but they were intensely relished, and set the proper tone for the new year. It provided just a taste of our big adventures yet to come.

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Where to Stay in Charlevoix

Charlevoix is a just over an hour drive from Quebec City, but is also accessible by train during the summer months.

Le Massif de Charlevoix ski hill sits just outside Baie-St-Paul, while its hotel La Ferme sits in it (guests can also take a train that runs from the hotel to the base of the ski hill). On the base of a burned barn, the hotel has won numerous high level awards and is well-deserving of every accolade for its style, sustainability practices, and commitment to the local community. It is a very inclusive complex, with everything from gorgeous suites to hostel dorm rooms.

“There’s an Einstein!” our guide Hayley called out, referring to the mother and two cubs (mc2, get it?) a few hundred metres away. Polar bears, despite what I had expected, are actually quite easy to spot on the open tundra. Their ivory fur stands out sharply against the white landscape. They sat curled up together, appearing as one giant bundle of fur with three heads. They, like most of the other bears we encountered, were napping to conserve their energy.

Visiting the Polar Bears in Churchill, Manitoba

It had been many months since having a proper feast, and the upcoming hunt for seals would require all the strength they had in store. Hayley then anxiously pointed out the male approaching them. Polar bears will turn on each other in hunger even if those cubs were his spawn, that hungry male would not stop from eating them.

He was getting dangerously close. The mother, being downwind, couldn’t smell him and her head was turned the other way. My instincts clawed at me to open a window and scream in warning, but instead my hands flew up to my mouth and covered it. Our tour group all stood silent, waiting, staring, willing the mother to notice his advance. He seemed to get so close until she finally noticed and prodded her cubs into action. As they began to put distance between themselves and danger, the male gave up his pursuit. He deemed it unworthy of the energy required to chase, and was probably smart to do so. Female bears are less likely to overheat than males, giving her a distinct advantage on that unseasonably warm day.

It used to be that hunting was the greatest threat to these icons of the Arctic. Now, it’s changes in the climate.

Although often accompanied by a sharp wind, we were surprised at the moderate temperature during our visit in late November. -10C was the coldest it got during the day and the sun surprised us often. Our tour was one of the last for the season and on arrival we could spot why. With ice starting to form on the edge of the Hudson’s Bay, soon the bears would be able to venture out onto it entirely and begin the annual seal hunt. But then the day after our arrival, a fierce wind blew all of the ice off the water. The freezing process would have to begin again, and the bears would remain hungry for a few extra days.

Although estimates are difficult to get, as polar bears live in remote areas that are difficult or expensive to get to, the current total number is roughly 26,000. And one of the most closely studied populations is this one near Churchill – where 27% of that population has declined since the 1980s and we were told that a new report soon to be released states it has dropped even further. Fewer young are surviving and fewer older bears are present – they are not living as long as they used to.

These bears are vulnerable, as are many species in the Churchill area. As the climate changes all around, red foxes are beginning to creep north, battling and dominating Arctic foxes, while snow geese are moving south.

The balances are tipping.

Despite knowing their grievous plight, in real life, it is easy to believe that polar bears just want nothing more than snuggles. They aren’t aggressive or territorial like other bears. They make no sound except for slight gripes to each other, and several approached our buggy with what appeared to be only genuine curiosity. A young pair, brother and sister, pushed their pivoting noses up against the heavy steel grill that lined the open back floor. As much as we were instructed to be quiet, we all let out tiny gasps of delight and shuffled about to get a closer look.

I crouched low to hear and feel their breath. There was no growl, no baring of teeth. Neither of them gave off any hint of offence, and I wanted so badly to reach my fingers down and feel their leathery noses.

I knew, however, that either of those bears, or any of them really, would swipe and snap at any exposed part of my body given the opportunity. And it wouldn’t be due to anger or their feeling attacked, but just because they wanted to eat me. I thought about how it had been several months since they feasted on their desired seal blubber and kept my fingers to myself.

They withdrew, peered up at us conspicuously, jumped and stretched up the side of the buggy for a closer look, settled back down, and then wandered off. While we ate our lunch from safely within, the pair rolled around luxuriously on the nearby ice. They did so without a care in the world, so it seemed, gently swatting and nibbling at each other. It was an unexpected spectacle of loving play, and once again any vision I had of a hungry and vicious polar bear was dashed.

How could something so darling be so deadly?

It’s funny how quickly we attach human emotion to something not human.

In the very last hour of our very last day, we found her. Our driver, having heard over the radio of another Einstein nearby, was taking us over there for what would likely be our last encounter of the trip. But a solo female was coming straight for us so we decided to stop. It was rare that we would have a bear to ourselves without other buggies around.

She was young, 3 to 4 years old our guide guessed, and at first seemed just as curious as the others. She wandered around the back, peered up through the grill, but then suddenly just curled up by the back passenger tire and rested her head on one of her giant paws.

And that was it. She just stayed there. She lifted her head every once in awhile if we were a bit too noisy, but otherwise had decided that the perfect spot to nap would be beside us.

It seemed a shocking display of trust, and neither our driver or guide quite knew what to make of her. After several minutes of blocking the track, when we had to move to let other buggies by, she followed. We stopped again and she ambled up behind us and took up the same spot by the tire.

It was the colder of our two days on the tundra but I could barely be budged off of that open back; I couldn’t take my eyes off of her. It was, in the purest sense of this overused word, the most unbelievable experience with nature I have ever had. Something stirred deep in my soul.

Finally, after indulging many moments of silence and awe, we had to leave in order to make our plane. It was agonizing to see her head hung low and with woeful eyes staring up as we drove away. We were all convinced that she was lonely and desperate for our interaction. For our soothing reassurance. For our snuggles. I was not the only one with tears in my eyes as the distance grew between us.

But polar bears don’t feel loneliness, we were told. In reality, her only thought would have been one of hunger. And how she was likely many days away yet from satisfying it.

How To See the Polar Bears in Churchill

Here is the top-rated Tundra Buggy Experience in Churchill. Included with the tour is ound-trip transportation from the Fifty Eight North life style shop in Churchill to the Tundra Buggy launch site along with a picnic style lunch and refreshments.

Note that transportation from Winnipeg to Churchill is not included. There are a number of options for getting to Churchill. You can easily get there via plane or train (there is no road that goes all the way there). For a more luxurious experience, there are day trips from Ottawa, Edmonton, and other destinations.

For us, we had a two-day experience on the tundra. An we have so much appreciation for this excursion with Frontiers North Adventures, which gave us two days on the tundra and two days exploring Churchill. Our time on the buggy of course brought our favourite moments and we were well taken care of during our hours exploring with a well-kept vehicle and plenty of delicious food.

On the second day, we were accompanied by JoAnne Simerson from Polar Bears International who provided a wealth of information. PBI does a lot of work in the area and the world to bring to light the story of the polar bears, including tracking some of the bears that go out onto the Bay (this is our favourite part of their website)!

Space. It’s the final frontier. And for most, it will never be reachable. But we can wonder and learn from the select few who have been there, and lucky for me, I recently had that opportunity at the Dark Sky Festival in Jasper. It was the first night of the festival at the VIP Stargazing Reception when I met Bob. He came up to my table, where I was chatting with a few colleagues; Bob asked to join our conversation, and we gladly welcomed him. We learned that he had traveled to Jasper from Ontario and was retired. I asked him the same question that our table had just been chatting about.

“If you had the chance to be on the first ship for a tourist excursion to space, would you do it?” All of our answers were similar. Despite the risk and leaving behind loved ones, we all agreed with a resounding yes.

Little did we know at that point who our new friend really was. The next day, Bob took the stage for the main event panel “Spacetalks”. And I was stunned to find out that Bob is better known as Dr. Robert Thirsk (yes, this guy). He is the Canadian who holds the record for longest number of consecutive days in space at 204. (You think he would have mentioned that the night before? Maybe a “Nahhh, I’ve already done that…” to our question about space exploration. But no. His Canadian modesty shone through and he played along, sharing his eagerness to return to space and explore like the rest of us.)

And with my jaw dropped for the most of his panel, I enthusiastically listened to Bob chat about the race to Mars, the importance of space exploration, and what it means to have Canada involved in such fascinating programs.

So when I think of the Jasper Dark Festival, it’s not only the actual stars in the sky that are the feature draw. It’s also about gazing at the stars who grace the stage.

Apart from Dr Thirsk, Col. Chris Hadfield (link), and the Kelly brothers (Mark and Scott), have been previous guests and shared their adventures and future insight into space programs.

And then there are the engineers and artists of which space exploration is a passion. George Takei aka “Sulu” for those Star Trek fans, Jay Abumrad – one of the co-hosts on the popular podcast Radiolab, and Dr. Shawna Pandya – the physician, speaker, citizen-scientist astronaut & aquanaut, and martial artist are just a FEW of whom have been guests throughout the years.

More About the Jasper Dark Sky Festival

In 2011, Jasper was designated as a Dark Sky Preserve by the Royal Astronomical Society in Canada. It’s the second largest dark sky preserve in the world, and thus, it’s no wonder why the festival is held here. The festival has run every year in October since the Dark Sky Preserve designation. And apart from the incredible speakers, there are plenty of activities to take part in.

The organizers pack a ten-day itinerary full of a variety of activities for any age. I was only in town for two days but my schedule was busy.

Here are a few things I had a chance to experience:

• I learned about our galaxies at the Jasper Park Lodge’s Planetarium and afterward peered through some mega-telescopes at our constellations and planets.

• With my love of food and molecular gastronomy I joined the “Food Lab” which was an interactive cooking demonstration. It’s no shock that this was my favourite experience at the festival as I learned from Chef Daryl Huculak (Olive Bistro) how by using obscure quirky cooking techniques he can obtain unique flavors, textures and creations. We made faux-caviar from mango, the perfect cooked egg, and used a variety of different ingredients to make unique creations. (But the best part of the Food Lab was the three-course meal I got with it, of course!)

• I rode the Jasper Sky Tram to the top of Whistlers Mountain and was treated to a three course dinner followed by the chance to step outside and take in the stars above the mountain. Unfortunately the winds were howling up top and the sky was socked in with clouds such that we couldn’t see a thing. Fortunately there was plenty of hot chocolate inside to keep us warm.

Other Dark Sky Festival Activities

Some of the activities that I didn’t get a chance to do and wish I did:

• Listening to the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra on the shores of the Jasper Park Lodge under a blanket of stars (and of course an actual blanket)

• Attend a photography workshop by the super-talented Jeff Bartlett and Jack Fusco to fine-tune my astral photography skills. In fact, the workshop is designed for anyone who wants to learn how to take photographs at night and of the stars.

• Take a guided night hike by Lake Annette and experience the rich skies and maybe even see some wildlife.

And when I wasn’t at the festival during my downtime there were plenty of things to take part in and around Jasper.

Other Things to do in Jasper

• I was able to fully relax in my cabin at the Jasper Park Lodge. It’s one of the best places to stay when you come to Jasper. The lodge is about a 5 mile drive from the townsite and is situated between Beauvert and MIldred Lake. I was able to take advantage of their spa and steam rooms, took a hike around the lake (of course bringing bear spray which was provided at the front desk), and grabbed a meal at the fabulous ORSO Trattoria restaurant.

• I took advantage of the mild weather temperatures and jumped on a motorcycle to be driven around on a tour of the National Park with Jasper Motorcycle Tours. It was exhilarating to feel the fresh mountain air hit my face (along with a little bit of snow) when we went all the way up the mountain to take in the views.

• We walked all over downtown Jasper as a part of the Downtown Foodie Tour with Jasper Food Tours. Our group was introduced to some of the best local food joints in town and we tasted some of the town’s special Canadian dishes along with selectively paired boozie treats. I indulged in:
  • The famous Elk Meatloaf at the Jasper Brew Pub,
  • Feta stuffed falafel and house made hummus from the Raven Bistro,
  • Ribs from the heart and soul of Jasper – the Dead Dog
  • And Churros dipped in a bowl of hot chocolate sauce from the Olive Bistro

All of this was packed into two days, and packed into one of the most beautiful locations in the world. Jasper never fails to impress, and although I didn’t see many stars in the sky due to the cloudy weather, I saw plenty on stage and around town. This festival will undoubtedly woo me to return, and with next year being its 10 year anniversary, I am sure that the stars will compel me again.

When most people think of travelling in Alberta, they picture the Rocky Mountains, National Parks, and emerald lakes in the summer and snowy glaciers, frozen waterfalls, and ice skating on those famous lakes in the winter. They likely imagine visiting of the main tourist destinations of Alberta: Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, Jasper National Park, the Columbia Icefield and Icefields Parkway, or even Elk Island National Park, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site or two.

Of course, all of these locations are incredible locations to visit, and worth visiting Alberta in their own right. However, these popular spots are not all that Alberta has to offer.

We want to share some of our favourite spots that are a little more off the beaten path from our experiences of travelling in Alberta. The road trips certainly take you on some of the most scenic drives, but it’s the quirky Alberta attractions along the way that really make the trip.

Travelling in Alberta – A Roadside Attraction Road Trip

On day two of our latest road trip in Alberta, we came upon a rather large goose in the small town of Hanna. Not the world’s largest goose (as we first thought), but a large enough one that it was worth a stop on our journey to see some of the more offbeat things in our home province (tick that off our road trip scavenger hunt checklist).

Turns out, we weren’t alone. Two young girls, early 20s by my estimation, appeared seemingly out of nowhere. They crept up on us as we fiddled with our cameras and discussed angles. Can you take our photo? One of them asked, handing me her phone. She adjusted her long loose braid to lay over her left shoulder; her friend put on a pair of heart-shaped iridescent sunglasses.

I took a few steps back and readied the phone. Both girls stood at the neck of the bird and splayed their arms behind them as if they were set to take flight themselves. I snapped a couple of shots, they took the phone back, thanked me, and were on their way. I didn’t see in which direction they departed; the girls had disappeared as inconspicuously as they arrived.

It was a surprise to see them, in this tiny town not known for much, apparently in a pursuit not much different than our own. And that brief interchange, unbeknownst at the time to those girls, Pete, and to myself, would change the way we felt about the expedition we had just begun.

Henceforth, we became frivolous and playful tourists.

Some may think, because we have spent the large majority of the last decade exploring cultures that were not our own, we may turn a more discerning eye to our home, stacking Alberta up against other regions of the world. And maybe we expected that of ourselves, too, feeling a bit of pressure to discover and reveal the intricacies to this place that we are so familiar with. However, here we were, on an epic trip into parts unknown in our home province, and we shed that investigative inclination in the name of plain old fun.

We drove just under 3,000 km and made dozens of photo stops, embracing our inner playful tourist the entire time. And in doing so, we discovered a ridiculously entertaining side to travelling in Alberta we had barely seen before.

World’s Largest Sausage (Mundare)

Yes. You read that right. Unbeknownst to many, Canada is home to the third-largest population of people with Ukrainian heritage (outside of Russia and Ukraine itself), which began with a wave of immigration in the late 19th century. Many came to Alberta and settled around Edmonton.

The parents of my paternal grandmother were a part of that movement. My grandma herself, although born in a small town in Alberta, didn’t speak English until she attended school because her family only spoke Ukrainian at home. The region north of Edmonton is speckled with monuments to Ukrainian heritage.

Hence the sausage (and a few more “world’s largest” landmarks to come). Erected in honour of a local food company (Stawnichy’s), the structure stands at 42ft in the middle of the little town of Mundare. Nearby is the flagship store for Stawnichy’s itself, and sampling the product after taking your sausage selfie is a must.

World’s Largest Pysanka (Vegreville)

Of all the Ukrainian sculptures in Alberta, this might be the most famous and admittedly did make me a little emotional on arrival. I grew up painting pysanka often with my grandma around Easter and continued to carry that tradition on into adulthood. The statue stands three and a half stories high in Vegreville and was even once visited by the Queen.

World’s Largest Pyrogy (Glendon)

I made a lot of pyrogy with my grandma, too (and consider myself quite the connoisseur). You guys know how I feel about these little pockets of goodness (as demonstrated by my devouring everything in sight while in Poland), and leave it to the Ukrainian-Canadian population to build the largest in the world. And they are quite proud of it in Glendon, with streets and restaurants named after it.

Who can resist such a selfie?

World’s First UFO Landing Pad (St. Paul)

Why? You might ask.

Good question. As for a definitive answer, I could not find one. The town of St. Paul wanted to celebrate Canada’s 100th birthday in 1967 by building a memorable landmark. Well, I suppose they did just that, and the government even responded by declaring St. Paul the Centennial Capital of Canada.

Starship Enterprise Replica (Vulcan)

Alberta has a fascination with the beyond, apparently! The small town of Vulcan, in southern Alberta, was originally named by a surveyor for the Canadian Pacific Railway after the Roman God of Fire, but the connection to Star Trek (as the homeworld of Mr Spock) has not gone wasted.

Star Trek themed murals and signs decorate the town, and on the side of the replica itself, writing in Klingon is found. They even host Spock Days annually, and Leonard Nimoy himself visited the town in 2010.

(We’re not Trekkies, by any means, but admit that this was one of the more entertaining stops we made!)

World’s Largest Border Markers (Lloydminster)

Of all the rivalries between neighbours in the world and all the talk of building walls, you probably wouldn’t expect the title of largest border markers in the world to be held by Lloydminster. It is Canada’s only border city.

Lloydminster straddles both provinces of Alberta and Saskatchewan, and the markers were designed to actually signify the coming together of the city. A perfect spot. Maybe it’s a necessary reminder at times – with debates about applying different taxes from each province coming to a head here, and even confusion over the time zones.

They are 30 feet tall and bright orange, running right down the street that separates the two provinces.

World’s Largest Dragonfly (Wabamun)

I may have struggled with pronouncing this town’s name, Wabamun (see video above!), but this lake-side community is a cute stop, no matter how you say it. And the 30-foot long / 30-foot wide dragonfly made of recycled goods (including wings from an old airplane) will be the first thing you see as you drive into town and towards the lake.

The Dragonfly Festival began a few years ago and runs every June, aiming to bring in tourists to the town that used to rely on a coal mine.

World’s Largest Mushrooms (Vilna)

The tricholoma uspale mushroom grows wild in the vicinity of Vilna. It is often used as a traditional ingredient in dishes of the region.

Hunting for mushrooms has been a tradition since the Ukrainian settlers came to this area just Northeast of Edmonton.

World’s Largest Wagon Wheel & Pick Axe (Fort Assiniboine)

In Fort Assiniboine, we met Ken. As we started our ridiculous selfie-taking, he drove by and watched us intently before swinging his large truck around to pull in and park beside us. We were the only tourists we could see in this tiny town, and our selfie stances must have piqued his interest.

On appearance, he was a large and gruff man but quickly displayed the hospitality of northern Albertans that I was quite familiar with, having grown up just a few hours north of there. He told stories of his quaint little town (seriously, one of the cutest we visited on the whole trip), of floods that destroyed a field behind us, and of the declining school size. We talked about the wagon and pick axe being symbolical of the pioneers who settled in the north of this province.

Ken said he suggested that the town build a whole wagon to accommodate the one wheel (which would, I expect, be quite impossible). I told him we’d be the first to photograph it if they did!

Korean Totem Poles (Airdrie)

We’re used to indulging in fusion food around these parts, given the giant mix of cultures that makes up Alberta, but this is taking it a step further by adding Korean symbols to these monumental sculptures which traditionally commemorate cultural beliefs of indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest.

Why are they in the central city of Airdrie? They were a gift from the city of Gwacheon, Korea to commemorate a decade of sister-cityship.

World’s Largest Golf Tee (Trochu)

One of our favourite completely illogical stops, even though we saw it during a downpour, was the 40 ft golf tee that sits outside the Trochu Golf and Country Club. Why is it there? Because the town of Trochu won it in a contest. That’s it. An Alberta bank decided to run a contest in the summer of 2009 and the winner would get the world’s largest golf tee.

Through video submissions and rounds of voting, Trochu overwhelmingly won and was awarded the tee, which was installed that fall.

World’s Largest Dinosaur (Drumheller)

Back to the completely logical attractions (and one of the most fun!) is this 86 ft Tyrannosaurus Rex in Drumheller, the heart of the Canadian Badlands, and what is known as the “Dinosaur Capital of the World”. The Badlands region of Alberta stretches north-south, down the centre of the province, and houses some of the best-preserved dinosaur fossils in the world.

This large T-rex, and the many other awesome dinosaur-related homages around Drumheller, make this a must-stop on any Alberta trip. (I am totally bossy about this now, even though this was the first time in my 40+ years I ever visited!)

It’s also worth a visit to the Royal Tyrrell Museum while you’re in town.

The Hoodoos (Badlands)

If you’re exploring the Dinosaur Trail, you have to continue driving through the Alberta Badlands, to check out the hoodoos. Alberta’s hoodoos are Mother Nature’s contemporary art project–these whimsical rock formations look like they’re ready for an abstract photoshoot. Carved over eons by wind and water, these tall and slender figures stand like a lineup of stone statues in a fantasy world.

Marvel at how they formed through a dance between soft and hard rock layers, and indulge in a bit of geological daydreaming. Hoodoos are the ultimate rock stars of Alberta.

World’s Largest Chuckwagon (Dewberry)

This actually was not quite as big as we thought it would be, but it is the largest in the world! And, in a pinch, if you are in desperate need of a chuckwagon near Dewberry, it is fully functional! Chuckwagon racing is popular in western Canada (especially Alberta), and the first races held as a spectator sport were at the famed Calgary Stampede nearby.

World’s Largest Bucking Saddle Bronc Horse & Rider (Ponoka)

(Now, THAT is a mouthful to say, and many takes were required to get it right for the video.)

The Bucking Saddle Bronc Horse and Rider named “Legacy”, was built in 2004 to celebrate Ponoka’s 100th anniversary and is in tribute to the strength of pioneering families. As you may have guessed, cowboy ways are big in this part of Canada!

World’s Largest Western Boot (Edmonton)

This fibreglass cowboy boot used to stand in front of the Western Boot Factory, which no longer exists. Now the Stallion Boot & Jean Company sits just behind it in the capital city of Edmonton, and has been an attraction since 1989. As we were taking our usual round of selfies, one of the owners came out to tell us that there is even a secret door and ladder to get to the top of it.

Sadly, he lost the key. (Umm, thanks for nothing.)

Giant Corn Stalks (Taber)

If you are from Alberta, one solace of the fall season (if you’re feeling the dread of an upcoming winter) is that it is also Taber corn season. Taber is renowned for its fresh and juicy corn that becomes a staple of the last barbecues of summer.

Giant-Corn-Stalk-Taber

The giant corn stalk can be found just off the highway in the centre of town. You really can’t miss it! The challenge is finding a unique way to photograph it.

Giant Potatoes (Vauxhall)

Nearby is the bitty town of Vauxhall, known as the “Potato Capital of the West”. And it may not be the world’s largest pair of taters, but if you’re going to make statues of this visually unattractive root vegetable, might as well jazz them up with lipstick.

The Invisible House (Unknown)

This was a completely unscheduled stop and on a gravel back road. We have found no conversation of it online. It is simply a ladder to nowhere, or as the sign suggests, the ladder is apparently propped up against an invisible house.

On a nearby stake is a laminated letter asking for taxes on said house. Although, given that the letterhead is marked as coming from “Red Beer County” (as opposed to Red Deer County, where it indeed resides), we have to wonder how this quirky roadside attraction came to be.

Was a real letter (asking for taxes) mistakenly sent and the invisible house created as a jokey result? Or did someone just have too many red beers one night and thought this would be a fun gag for passerbys?

Whatever its origin, it was the first invisible house we’d ever seen.

OR WAS IT?

How We Did It

We covered a LOT of ground in nine days of travelling in Alberta via an RV, and still didn’t even come close to seeing all of the incredibly offbeat attractions that the province has to offer.