This was not our first time in Thunder Bay, having stayed a few years ago for a few days while driving across Canada. That stay was due to our move to Nova Scotia, and our focus was single-minded: get ourselves (and our cat!) there quickly and safely. We didn’t leave much time for exploring.
What we did see of Thunder Bay at the time told us one thing: We need to return. As hardcore lovers of nature, we knew that this city would agree with us. Sitting on the shores of Lake Superior and surrounded by extraordinary landscapes at every turn, it’s built for adventurers. And while we knew we’d be wowed at every step into the wilderness, we were eager to see what the city itself is about, too.
With two very full days, we saw and learned a lot. If you’re planning your own excursion to Thunder Bay (as you should be!), we hope this guide will give you the same wonderful experiences we had.
About Thunder Bay
Located in Northwest Ontario, this city on the big shore has only held its name since 1970. Previously, Thunder Bay was known as both Fort William and Port Arthur, cities that date back to the 1800s. The merger of the two began with the combination of ports in 1906, and the full-fledged unification began in the 1950s, taking almost 20 years to complete.
The area has long been an important transportation hub in Canada and is still one of the country’s busiest ports. Industries have come and gone from the city, and remnants of them still dot the shoreline. It’s a city that feels like it’s constantly evolving, but with steadfast attributes. Most notably, it holds a diverse community of kind people who are working to elevate the city to realize its full potential beyond industrial pursuits.
How To Spend Two Days In Thunder Bay
We assume that because you read this blog, you like what we like, and you’re here for our recount of beautiful experiences in nature, good food, and learning about communities via local initiatives. Trust us when we say that you can easily fill more than two days in the city, as there are many more options than what we’ve listed here, but the following list is a good start.
Walk Canada’s Longest Suspension Bridge
We arrived at the empty parking lot at Eagle Canyon Adventures as a fog hung low on the land. We were both immediately excited to have the place almost entirely to ourselves – walking on a 600ft bridge suspended 125ft above a canyon floor is not an experience we wanted to share with many others (whose jostling would spike our height-related fears).
Let alone two suspension bridges. One apparently was not enough, and the smaller bridge serves as a good primer to allay any fears before reaching the second. The path through the area was well thought out and offered beautiful vistas along the way, after walking across the bridges, you can then descend into the canyon to stroll back. All in all, it should take no more than 30 minutes to walk it entirely, but we took our time and even launched the drone to capture our whole experience.
Even when sharing the bridges with a couple of others who arrived after us, we weren’t dissuaded from enjoying ourselves. (Had we reached the max of 20 people as indicated on the warning sign, that might have been a different story!) We crossed the bridges once, then back again, and truly revelled in the experience from every angle.
Don’t Miss Ouimet Canyon
Very near Eagle Canyon is Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park, which is definitely worth the stop. The hike to the viewpoint is a flat, short, and accessible loop, with a platform to showcase the best perspective as the ravine stretches out below.
Dig Out Your Own Sparkly Souvenir at an Amethyst Mine
On this same road trip northeast of the city, a couple of amethyst mines are open for digging. We made a stop at the family-owned and operated Diamond Willow Amethyst Mine, took the loaner pail and trowel, and started searching for my birthstone.
It didn’t take long before Pete unearthed a few worthy of a closer look. We returned to the shop, washed them up, and picked two to take home as souvenirs (for only $5). The friendly owner showed us around the area and relayed his whole process from finding the amethysts to cleaning and assessing their value before putting them on display. If you like sparkly things, the trip to the mine is worth it just to marvel at their “rock garden”, even if you do no digging.
Feel the “Niagara of the North”
Our one excursion on our first visit years ago was to see Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park. It is one of those attractions, however, that we could never tire of seeing.
And this time around, the force of the water was intense; at several spots, we felt the cooling mist on our skin. The Falls, at 40m in height and the second highest in all of Ontario, are a truly impressive sight, and accessible from many angles. Just a few steps from the parking lot is a boardwalk that will take you to a quick viewing platform, and it also wraps around the top of the waterfall to the other side. Visitors can also camp, go hiking, and more. The whole park is well worth more time than we had to explore it.
Get a View From Above at Anemki Wajiw
Thunder Bay has no shortage of stunning viewpoints, and a quick drive up Anemki Wajiw gave us a gorgeous view of the city below. The sacred mountain itself holds significant meaning for the Anishinaabe people (and actually sits on the Fort William First Nation reserve). Translated, its name means “Thunder Mountain”.
Pay Respect at the Terry Fox Monument
Another important spot whose value exceeds its incredible scenery is the Terry Fox Monument and Visitor Centre. Yes, the monument offers magnificent views of Lake Superior, but what it stands for is much more significant.
There are few Canadians who don’t know the impact Terry Fox had on our nation. As an amputee whose leg was lost due to osteosarcoma, he pledged to run across Canada in an effort to raise money for cancer research. He began in St John’s, Newfoundland, and ran a remarkable marathon every day, until his declining health forced him to stop near Thunder Bay. He died less than a year later.
At the time he was forced to stop his run, his efforts had raised $1.7 million for cancer research, and he became a household name. Donations through the winter following amounted to a total of $23 million. His legacy endures to this day, and the annual Terry Fox Run continues to raise money for cancer research, with the grand total now approaching $1 billion.
Explore the Waterfront
The night we landed in Thunder Bay, Pete’s plan was to wander the waterfront and capture it while the city lights sparkled. However, his plans were thwarted by a thunderstorm; lightning streaked the sky, and the accompanying booms spoke of the city’s name.
The next morning, the weather was better, and he was awake at sunrise to go for his morning walk. Just outside our hotel were walking paths leading to parks, wharfs, and along the bay shore. Despite the early hour, the waterfront was active. Numerous people were out for their morning walks, runs, and coffee meetups. A Tai-Chi class was happening in the Taiji park. There was even an open field where a stage was set up for free concerts during the week.
We would both return later to explore again and browse the shops that also dot the waterfront. Along with an ice cream cart and a couple of spots to eat, we could easily see why the Waterfront District is so beloved by locals and visitors alike.
Sail the Harbour
Walking the harbourfront is one thing, exploring it by water is even better, and we were excited to ride the gentle waves with Sail Superior for a couple of hours.
Greg, the owner, took us for a cruise along the waterfront and out to the break wall. Only a true Thunder Bayite could relay the information Greg did as he sailed, enlightening us on his city’s history, pointing out the remnants of industry that still stand on the shoreline, and even advising on where we could take some great photos. The only thing that would have made the cruise better would have been wine and cheese along with the sunset (which Sail Superior does offer on other days)!
Explore Fort William Historical Park
It always truly fascinates us that the European investment in settling Canada was largely because of one thing: fashion.
Namely, because of beaver pelts that could be made into stylish hats. Indigenous Peoples had been living in the area surrounding Thunder Bay for thousands of years prior, but in the early 1800s, Fort William became the center of a vast trading network. Every July, proponents of the North West Company (an early rival of the Hudson’s Bay Company, largely comprised of Scottish merchants and Canadian traders) would meet there for Rendezvous, which can best be described as a large trade fair. This central meeting place would invite trappers from the north and west to trade with merchants arriving from Montreal. As many as two thousand braved the long journey in birchbark canoes to participate annually.
Fort William Historical Park is a replication of this large meeting place. Visitors are able to step back into the early 1800s and be guided through the many buildings that encompassed it, from accommodations for the company’s top men to canoe repair shops to a great dining hall and more. The setting is also quite spectacular, making this a can’t-miss stop.
Try All the Local Brews
Thunder Bay’s craft beer scene is small but mighty; we visited three breweries and each had their own distinct vibe. We loved their creativity when using the area’s fresh ingredients to create some surprisingly nuanced and delicious beers.
Dawson Trail Craft Brewery – Huge taproom, gourmet pizzas and hot dogs, and most importantly plenty of beers on tap. Both of our favourites beers from Thunder Bay came from this brewery. Pete loved the Running Stone Red Ale and mine was the Cucumber Gose! Dawson Trail has a great selection and a laid-back feel.
Sleeping Giant Brewing Company – This woman-owned brewery stands tall in Thunder Bay. Sleeping Giant really leans into the local heritage with brews named after landmarks and a taproom that’s a true community hub. Apart from the huge selection of brews and gorgeous gift shop full of local goodies (and beer), we absolutely loved the shout-out to Mr. Canoehead, their award winning Red Ale. (80s kids…unite! Of course we paid homage to “Four on the Floor” and watched some Mr. Canoehead while drinking a Mr. Canoehead.)
Lakehead Beer Company – Right smack in the middle of downtown is this cool brewery serving up a small selection of beers. What’s cool about this place is that they pour the beers directly from the vessels they were made in, making it as fresh as possible. Pete thought their IPA was crisp, hoppy and delicious. The Detroit-style pizza being served from Subdivision also caught our eye (and stomach). If we didn’t already have dinner reservations, we would have had our own.
Snack on a Persian
The few people who knew we were going to Thunder Bay and were familiar with the city all said the same thing: You HAVE to try a persian from The Persian Man.
There is no Middle Eastern connection to the name or food (like we initially thought). The story goes that their creator, Art Bennet, was making them while talking to a US World War I General named “Pershing”. It was such a memorable meeting for Art that he gave the treat a similar name! Persians have been around for ~80 years and are an institution in the city.
We can’t even explain why they are so good, but they are. They seem to simply be a fluffy donut/cinnamon swirl covered in light berry frosting. Super basic but super delicious, and we were wowed enough to snack on a few during our short stay.
Eat Very Well
Thunder Bay delighted us in many ways, and our dining experiences were no exception. The breakfasts were hearty, our grab-and-go lunch options were plentiful, and we truly savoured top-quality dinners.
Tomlin Restaurant – This top spot did not disappoint. After suffering decision paralysis for many minutes after sitting down, we finally settled on sharing plates that had us each fighting for the last bite. This included the charred broccolini, tomato and strawberry salad, and the beef tartare.
Grotto Trattoria – As the name suggests, it’s all Italian here. We were served gigantic plates of carbs – lasagna and a chicken carbonara-style dish – both of which we enjoyed but neither of which we were able to finish.
Tina’s Breakfast and Lunch and Daytona’s Restaurant – Both of these spots served essential breakfast classics and much-needed fuel for busy days exploring. A special shout-out must be given to the chicken and waffles at Daytona’s!
Uncommon Goods – We bought the last two perogy buns at this bakery inside the Goods & Co Market, and if there had been more, we would have immediately returned to clean them out.
Barkeep Cocktails – Not an eating establishment (besides snacks), but worth noting as a conveniently situated downtown spot to wait out your time to get into any restaurant (as we had to for Tomlin).
Prime Gelato – Take advantage of this new spot to get something sweet after dinner (and lighter fare than most restaurant desserts).
Our Focus on Supporting Women-Owned Businesses
When we drove across Canada and made our first-ever stop in Thunder Bay, we made a specific effort to support women-owned and minority businesses.On our return, we decided to do the same.
It was easy. A quick search via Google Maps, and we found several of the businesses mentioned above (Sleeping Giant Brewing Company, Prime Gelato) were all women-owned. We also stopped at a number of others including Goods and Co, a collective space on the Thunder Bay waterfront home to a number women and minority owned shops and restaurants.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Thunder Bay, but we highly recommend staying at the Delta Hotels Marriott, the only hotel right on the Thunder Bay waterfront. Downtown is easily walkable from it, and the rooms are cozy and comfortable. The amenities make this place: There are stand-up paddle boards and bicycles available to guests, a full gym, and a Starbucks right in the lobby for our morning caffeine fix.
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