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  • 10 Fun Things to Do in Modena, Italy

    10 Fun Things to Do in Modena, Italy

    Modena, nestled in the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy, is a city steeped in history, culture, and, without question, culinary excellence. Its well-preserved medieval and Renaissance architecture, including the Modena Cathedral and the iconic Ghirlandina Tower, is a testament to its rich heritage.

    Modena from above

    It’s the birthplace of balsamic vinegar and home to exquisite traditional Italian food, Modena is a paradise for food enthusiasts. It boasts a vibrant cultural scene with museums, galleries, and annual festivals celebrating music and local traditions. The city’s ties to the automotive industry, with Ferrari and Maserati headquartered here, add to its allure.

    Modena is a thriving and dynamic city that invites visitors to savour its history, culinary delights, and contemporary charm. It’s a reason why we needed to visit and why we loved it so much.

    Our Experience in Modena

    Our nephew Avery surprised us in the first few days of our trip when he barely pulled out his camera and said that he really had no desire to. “It’s about the experience” was a statement I had not expected to hear.

    At 18 years young, and on only his first visit overseas, he declined a quick visit to Pisa to take the legendary selfie, and was less in awe of the big tourist sights than I expected him to be. And in a last unexpected twist when discussing his favourite parts of the trip, he declared the tiny city of Modena as a very close second to Florence, beating out Venice, Rome, and Cinque Terre

    If I could have anticipated his desires more closely, I might have planned the trip a little differently and a little more into the unknown. But our original plan to hit up the Emilia Romagna region was for our own selfish purposes: we wanted to return for the amazing food we had discovered on our last visit, and Pete wanted to get behind the wheel of a Ferrari.

    We kinda felt like we were dragging Avery away from the tourist route all first-time travellers should see and just hoped he wouldn’t mind. He didn’t, and instead he raved, and not just for the thrill ride in a Ferrari. The exquisite dishes we ate won him over as the best food from Italy we had.

    With 25 year aged balsamic vinegar drizzled over parmesan, prosciutto that melted in our mouths, and the most luxurious pasta we’ve ever eaten, Ave actually slowed down his frantic eating pace to savour each bite. For an 18 year-old male with an insatiable appetite, this is the biggest compliment he could give.

    Tips for Visiting Modena, Italy

    How To Get There

    To get to Modena, Italy, you can fly into nearby airports like Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport or Milan Malpensa Airport and then head to the train station. From Bologna, it’s only short train ride to Modena. If coming from Milan, you can catch a high-speed train to Modena.

    Renting a car is also an option for a road trip, which is certainly the more scenic and slow-paced way to do it. Additionally, long-distance buses serve Modena from various Italian cities.

    When To Visit

    The ideal time to visit Modena, Italy, varies depending on your personal preferences. Spring, from April to June, presents a delightful option with mild weather, blooming landscapes, and a vibrant atmosphere which is a great option for first time travellers or for those who want a smaller crowd.

    Summer, from June to August, can be warm but be warned, it is over-crowded with tourists and events.

    Early autumn, spanning September to November, offers pleasant weather and a more peaceful experience with harvest festivals and cultural events. This is usually the best option.

    Winter, from December to February, is the low tourist season, making it perfect for those seeking a quieter visit and lower prices, although it can be chillier.

    The Best Things To Do in Modena

    We had a tough time narrowing down our list of things to do in Modena. From indulging in cheese and gelato, racing performance sports cars, taking in the sights, or immersing in the history and culture of the town, there was a lot to do.

    Indulge in Gelato

    Satisfy your sweet tooth with authentic Italian gelato from one of the city’s Gelaterias. GIOELIA Cremeria gelato shop was a place that we frequented twice daily (it was seriously the best we had in all of Italy–and we tested a LOT).

    Overall, though, we revered the calm. We did not miss shuffling among hundreds and hearing English more often than not. Here, we felt like we were cherishing a real slice of Italy. Easily it’s one of the best things to do in Modena.

    Explore Piazza Grande

    Modena’s Piazza Grande, also known as Piazza Roma, is the city’s central square, steeped in history and surrounded by stunning architecture. Dominated by the Modena Cathedral and the iconic Ghirlandina Tower, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it’s a hub for cultural events and dining.

    This lively square offers a glimpse into Modena’s rich heritage and is one of the main things to do in Modena while exploring the city’s historic center. And it only gets more magical when dusk sets in, and the golden hue from the lights reflects off the Piazza’s cobblestone streets.

    Climb to the Top of Ghirlandina Tower

    Located in Piazza Grande, the Ghirlandina Tower (Duomo di Modena) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and pretty hard to miss, as it sits above everything else in the city center.

    We had the chance to climb the bell tower to reach the top, and were rewarded with panoramic views of Modena and the surrounding countryside. Be prepared to go up though, the ascent consists of a series of narrow staircases and can be a bit of a tight squeeze. It’s one of the “top” things to do in Modena. Literally. See what we did there?

    Visit Modena Cathedral

    The stunning Modena Cathedral (Duomo di Modena) is another UNESCO World Heritage site known for its Romanesque architecture and intricate carvings. It is also located in Piazza Grande in the city centre.

    Inside the cathedral, you’ll find a treasure trove of artistic and historical riches. Notable highlights include beautiful frescoes, a stunning mosaic in the apse, and an intricately carved pulpit. Modena Cathedral is not only a testament to the artistic achievements of its time but also a living symbol of Modena’s historical and cultural heritage.

    Savour Balsamic Vinegar

    Modena is renowned as the “birthplace of traditional balsamic vinegar”, known as “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.” Tasting it in its place of origin ensures an authentic and unparalleled experience. Who knew how intricate, delicate and DELICIOUS a 25 year-old balsamic could taste? We were lucky and very appreciative to try it.

    Modena’s balsamic vinegar is deeply ingrained in the local culinary culture (to say the least). By participating in a lunch and balsamic vinegar tasting tour, you gain insight into this rich heritage and its significance in Italian cuisine. You get to visit a balsamic vinegar factory and of course, have lunch!

    And what’s even better than trying the best balsamic vinegar? Trying the best balsamic vinegar with the best parmesan cheese. Trust us, it doesn’t get much better than this.

    The Enzo Ferrari Museum

    Seeing these cars in person has always been a childhood dream. I grew up always wanting a Testarossa. So visiting this cutting-edge museum and uncovering the rich history of one of the globe’s most esteemed brands was a must. I was instantly captivated by the futuristic facade of the building, resembling an oversized yellow hood.

    Upon entering, I stepped into the expansive hall, which hosts a diverse array of exhibitions, offering the chance to delve into the fascinating history of Ferrari and its visionary founder, Enzo. The Enzo Ferrari Museum is one of the most popular things to do in Modena, and definitely worth visiting for those interested in a stunning collection of historic vehicles.

    Be sure to book your ticket for the Ferrari Museum in advance.

    Test Drive a Ferrari

    Seeing the Ferrari museum was one thing. But getting to sit behind the wheel and open it up on the motorway. Hell yes. Test driving a Ferrari in something anyone can do in Modena. To be fair, Ferrari is actually what predominantly drew us there in the first place, and the experience needed to be shared:

    This is the perfect activity for sports car fans and regular day-trippers alike.

    Want to test drive a Ferrari? You can do it, but be warned, it isn’t cheap. Although we can 100% say that the experience is certainly worth it.

    Stroll through Parco Novi Sad

    Situated in the city center, this charming urban park known for its tranquil ambiance, lush greenery, and family-friendly amenities, including a playground. This well-maintained oasis provides a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle, offering opportunities for leisurely strolls, picnics, and cultural events.

    Visitors can also enjoy panoramic views of Modena’s skyline and easy access to nearby historical attractions, making it a beloved spot for relaxation and exploration.

    Visit Modena’s Markets

    Modena’s markets are a bustling and vibrant part of the city’s cultural and culinary scene, with many located around or nearby Piazza Grande. From the Mercato Albinelli, a historic covered market where you can find an abundance of fresh produce, meats, parmesan cheese, and local delicacies, to the Mercato Storico, known for its array of artisanal products and gourmet treats, these markets provide a sensory journey through the flavours and traditions of the Emilia-Romagna region.

    Exploring Modena’s markets is not just a shopping experience; it’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the daily life and gastronomic richness of this charming Italian city.

    Take a Food Tour

    You can’t visit Modena and not take a food tour while you’re there. Nestled in the center of Emilia Romagna’s ‘Food Valley,’ Modena serves as the epicentre for the creation of some of Italy’s most renowned gourmet delicacies.

    This is one of the most popular Modena food tours. You will get picked up and dropped off at your hotel, and along the way you’ll get to experience:

    • 5 gourmet pit-stops including:
    • Breakfast with special bread and cappuccino
    • Tigelle and Lambrusco wine

    It’s the perfect way to experience a taste of the region’s culinary highlights on an exclusive food tour, allowing you to savour its most iconic offerings all within just a few hours.

    The Kindness of The Modenese People

    There are plenty of things to do in Modena that make it a wonderful place to visit, but it’s truly the people that make it so special.

    The final event that exalted Modena occurred after our trip up the Ghirlandina tower. Or should I say, after that trip in which I somehow dropped my wallet without noticing, when a harmonious string of events saw the police track me down at our hotel and drop if off before we left the next morning.

    Would that have happened in Rome? Or Florence? Probably not, and convinces me yet again that it is the off-beat tourist destinations that provide the most endearing experiences. And I’m glad that Ave didn’t have to just tolerate this side-trip, but instead enjoyed it as much as we did.

    Where We Stayed

    There are plenty of options for hotels in Modena.

    Hotel Libertà

    The lovely Hotel Libertà was right in the center of the action and very comfortable for our two-day stay. It’s right in the heart of Modena, close to everything (including the train station) and, more importantly, gelato shops.

    Tours We Recommend

    There are plenty of things to do in Modena including learning about the secrets of parmesan and balsamic vinegar, a trip to the Lamborghini or Ferrari Museum with a food tour, or learning to make the freshest and most delicious pasta and tiramisu you will ever eat.

    Final Thoughts

    We don’t often get to play tour guide to family and friends, but when we do, I have been pleasantly surprised to find their experiences most enriched by those that I cherish as well.

    Like my Mom choosing Burhaniye over Istanbul, and now Avery lauding Modena over most of Italy. Their reactions have mirrored mine, and I don’t know if it is a familial traveller gene within, or if this is indicative of humankind as a whole.

    I don’t want to start the beaten debate of traveller-versus-tourist, but I think that deep down everyone would enjoy a trip off the well-treaded path, they just need to give themselves the chance to do so. And with Italy being one of the most frequented countries in the world – Modena is the perfect place to start.

  • The Best Things to Do in New Brunswick (for 2025)

    The Best Things to Do in New Brunswick (for 2025)

    New Brunswick is doesn’t get the attention it deserves. It’s a wonder that it is not one of the first provinces that comes to mind when people talk about touring eastern Canada. It offers adventure, history, culture, incredible scenery, hospitality, culinary delights, and much, much more. And hey, guess what? That’s exactly the kind of place that attracts us.

    New Brunswick is like the underdog, the shy girl at the party, the indie rock band that only the cool kids are into. That alone wooed us in the door and why we keep coming back. And now that we live in Nova Scotia, it’s even easier for us to hop over and explore this Atlantic gem!

    Swallowtail Lighthouse on Grand Manan Island

    We’ve experienced so much in our number of visits to this Atlantic province. We’ve visited countless charming coastal towns that are steeped in history and loved house boating and flyfishing on some of the most popular New Brunswick rivers. We cherished the many moments immersing ourselves in Acadian culture and learning about the history along the Acadian shores. We’ve watched whales leap from the water and felt the ocean spray as they did so. We’ve hiked, tasted fantastic food and drink, kayaked, and so, so much more.

    It’s a special place for us, and below we’ve highlighted some of the best things to do in New Brunswick.

    The Best Places to See and Things to Do in New Brunswick

    Grand Manan

    We have much more to say about our week spent on this, one of the 19 islands that belong to New Brunswick. Although Grand Manan is the biggest, it is still relatively tiny overall, but that didn’t stop us from filling our week with an incredible array of activities.

    From watching seals play in the calm early morning waters to tackling bush-whacking hikes, we loved our time there immensely. It reminded us a bit of Moloka’i, Hawaii, to be honest – a gorgeous little slice of paradise that we are so surprised isn’t overrun by people wanting a piece of it.

    Bouctouche

    A single photo online had drawn us to this area, compelling us to see it for ourselves. What we found there made us wish we had allotted an entire day.

    Pays de la Sagouine

    Imagine growing up as a child, staring at an empty island in your town, and then as an adult bringing that island to life with books filled with characters based on your Acadian heritage. That is exactly what Antonine Maillet did, and her vision now fills Le Pays de la Sagouine.

    Led around by a tour guide and introduced to others on the island who were in full character, we were thoroughly entertained and educated. This attraction also offers an array of festivals and musical performances every night during the summer that we wish we had allotted time for.

    Nearby is also a long curvy boardwalk raised over windswept dunes at the Irving Eco-Centre. With soft sand on one side and wavy emerald grass on the other, it’s worth every step of the stroll.

    Ballet By the Ocean

    In the summer months, not far from Bouctouche and right near the water, the Atlantic Ballet performs in the midst of a nature reserve. Balley By the Ocean was borne out of the early, heavily restricted COVID days. This dance troupe became the only one in North America (and maybe the world) to be able to entertain during the pandemic.

    Now, the performance is accompanied by a three-course meal prepared by Chef Jordan Holden of Atelier Tony (in Moncton) using the highest-quality local ingredients. Guests were able to bring their own wine, and a local winery was on location, giving away samples. This experience in such a stunning setting is unique and exceptionally special.

    Akadi Lumina

    Another attraction near Bouctouche, Akadi Lumina opened in the summer of 2024 to great acclaim. It’s one thing to learn about the Acadian people and their stories of resilience and perseverance, but it’s another thing to actually feel it. Via Akadi Lumina, the Acadian story is told via light, poetry, video projection, and original music. It’s not a place to learn facts but instead, a place to understand emotions.

    Akadi Lumina is a 1.5 km forest walk taken at night. The path is illuminated the whole way, with stops punctuated by a variety of displays. We felt anguish at being separated, joy at gathering together again, and deeply felt how Acadian stories have echoed through the generations. At times, the experience was a bit disorienting but always vibrant and inspiring.

    It is now a permanent New Brunswick attraction, open when the weather is warm.

    Saint John

    We arrived under a thick blanket of fog and left with the same – it is no wonder that the fog horn was invented in this city. But no matter, the city offers so much in and outside of these pea soup hours.

    When in the fog: We embraced the concept of “fog”tography and enjoyed capturing the moody atmosphere. We stayed indoors for incredible meals at the Saint John Ale House and East Coast Bistro. A little fog and rain also weren’t going to stop us from enjoying our favourite activity – kayaking – where we were led through still waters to view fossils on nearby banks.

    Fogtography!

    When out of the fog: We took in performances at the Buskers on the Bay festival and watched water actually flow backwards on the Saint John River.

    Buskers on the Bay Festival

    Hopewell Rocks

    The tides rage onto the coast of New Brunswick as quickly as they disperse. With every passing minute of the day, the coastal landscape transforms.

    There is no other land on the planet, other than neighbouring provinces, that exists next to the likes of the Bay of Fundy. The bay narrows and rises, forcing a lot of water into not a lot of space, which can cause extreme rises up to 53 feet twice in a day.

    The forceful sea has created a series of oddly shaped rocks on the southeast shore of New Brunswick, known famously as the Hopewell Rocks. By low tide, we were able to walk among them, and we arrived at first crack of dawn to catch the sun rays breaking across their awkward edges. And in the hours just before the highest tide we boarded kayaks to paddle among them. The water bounced us thoroughly but not so much that we couldn’t enjoy the spectacle we were in.

    Kayaking with Baymount Outdoor Adventures

    St. Martins Sea Caves

    These are many spots whose character has been shaped by the Bay of Fundy, and these two are worth at least a full day of exploring. St Martins, already a picturesque little town on its own, offers sea caves that are inaccessible at high tide but can be walked around in during low. The water is crystal-clear, and the cliffs are a deep red, making this a must-stop to watch as the area changes with the passing hours.

    The sea caves at St. Martins

    Fundy Trail Parkway

    Nearby begins the 19km Fundy Trail Parkway which can be tackled in any number of ways – vehicle, bike, or your own two feet. The drive is spectacular, but the real fun is strapping on a pair of hiking shoes and taking a walk. There is a series of trails that took us up and down the coast to waterfalls and overviews.

    At the end is the stunning Long Beach, which was only made accessible to visitors in 2016. We had some sketchy weather that pushed us around at some points, but this drive was easily still a top highlight for us.

    Long Beach

    Kouchibouguac National Park

    Please don’t ever ask me to pronounce it, but please take me there again. More dunes, more beaches, more hiking. We spent most of our time wandering Kelly’s Beach, which is accessed by another curvy boardwalk, and with the tide out, we poked around extensively on the ocean floor.

    Visit Fredericton

    The charm of Fredericton lies in its harmonious blend of history, nature, and urban vibrancy. It’s the capital of New Brunswick and boasts a walkable downtown filled with Victorian architecture and a rich Loyalist history, especially visible in the Historic Garrison District

    The city’s unique character is defined by the Saint John River that flows through its heart, with a vast network of scenic trails and the iconic Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge connecting both sides. We loved strolling and cycling along the waterfront, and visiting the famous Farmers Market. The riverside setting complements a thriving arts and culture scene, lively markets, and a burgeoning reputation as the “Craft Brewing Capital of Atlantic Canada,” offering a relaxed yet engaging atmosphere.

    Houseboating in New Brunswick

    Never would New Brunswick cross our minds as a houseboat destination. Growing up in the West, renting a houseboat was done on the Okanagan in British Columbia. Boy, oh boy, were we wrong. This was some of the best house boating we’ve ever done. We traded turns as captian as we toured up and down Mactaquac Lake, a section of the Saint John River.

    It’s a perfect watery vacation/adventure because it’s as simple as rolling up with the groceries you need for a few days. They provided towels and the like (linens were rented), and it was all very comfortable. Their crew gave us thorough but easy instructions on how to handle the boat, and then we set off for our adventure on the water.

    Our Thoughts About our First Trip to New Brunswick

    When we set our sights on our home turf for the summer of 2015, the East Coast was our first desire. We had previously spent some limited time in the region – mostly via trips with our old jobs – but didn’t really know much about this chunk of Canada that sits over 4,000 km away from where we grew up.

    It’s technically part of this big land mass we call home, but it’s almost completely unfamiliar. It is not that we are travellers who care about ticking places off a list, but Atlantic Canada does include the last two provinces we have yet to visit. New Brunswick was one of them. And with two weeks to explore, we thought we could do it all. We did the best we could to embrace all aspects of our ninth province: we tasted many of its craft brews (second most per capita in Canada), bounced around on several kayaks (including in the highest tides in the world), watched water flow backwards (for reals), and even saw the world’s largest lobster.

    The rest, as they say, was up to New Brunswick. And beyond all the tasty and quirky goodness it showed us, the province had plenty of what we admire most: drop-dead gorgeous scenery.

    Tours in New Brunswick

    There are so many things to do in New Brunswick. Whether you are craving adventure, delicious food, learning about the culture and history or witnessing the highest tides in the world there is surely something for everyone. Here are a few tours we recommend:

    Hopewell Rocks Admission

    Reserve your admission to walk on the sea floor and marvel at the Hopewell Rocks that have been shaped by the Bay of Fundy Tides.

    Go Fundy Tours

    This half-day tour starts in Saint John, New Brunswick. Here you will board a bus and enjoy a coastal drive and walking tour to the village of St. Martins and along the Fundy Trail Parkway. Note that this tour involves a moderate amount of walking.

    Mi’kamq Heritage Path Tour

    This tour will take you on an immersive journey through vibrant Mi’kmaq culture. On this 2 hour tour you will enter the community teepee for a soul-cleansing smudging ceremony, follow the serene Heritage Path, while discovering ancient wisdom and nature’s remedies. Visitors will leave with a profound connection to their teachings and customs.

    From Sap to Syrup

    Learn everything there is know about maple syrup. This tour will show you how the farm works and how they get the syrup from the maple trees. Included as well are tasty treats afterward to sample the delicious golden syrup.

    Hike & Lunch with Llamas

    This is probably one of the most unique experiences in New Brunswick. You will visit a llama farm where you will get to have a leisurely walk through the fields where the llamas roam. You’ll also have lunch with the llamas and goats wandering about.

  • The BEST PEI Beaches: Find Yours!

    The BEST PEI Beaches: Find Yours!

    Prince Edward Island might be Canada’s smallest province, but when it comes to beaches, it punches way above its weight.

    Think soft red or white sand, warm Gulf of St. Lawrence waters, and coastal views that practically demand you stop and stare. Whether you’re a beach bum, a sandcastle engineer, or just someone who likes a salty breeze with your book, PEI’s shoreline has a spot with your name on it.

    Our favourite moments in Prince Edward Island can be traced back to one afternoon.

    We stopped at Chelton Beach at low tide. It’s a provincial park and it was a weekend so it was somewhat busy, but not overwhelmingly so. In all honesty we had stopped just to use the bathroom, but as we approached the beachside building, we were taken by the scene that was before us.

    We descended the stairs onto the beach and walked out as far as we could, dragging our feet along the soft red sand and splashing in the lukewarm puddles left behind in the tide’s retreat. I waded through knee deep water to get to a sandbar all my own. It was no bigger than the room I sit in now to write this, but the sand was soft, free of other footprints, and it was mine. I was jealous of the lady on the sandbar over from me for her beach chair and portable cooler; she had clearly settled in for the day. So it goes, even on sandbars, that we tend to covet what our neighbours have, I suppose.

    I rejoined Pete and we began to walk the length of the beach to the east. Around a small jut of rocks was a smaller patch of red sand that was a little more under water. We had planned to continue our walk but stopped to poke around in the puddles when we noticed movement. Snails and small fish were darting back and forth in their own little miniature ocean.

    “Lobsters! There are baby lobsters in here!” When I reflect on this moment now, I shudder at the thought of my high-pitched squeal. I am pretty sure I sounded like a very excitable tween in my reaction to these tiny and almost translucent creatures that I had never seen before.

    Pete and I both grabbed cameras and started following them around, darting in different directions all over the beach. Unsuccessfully, I might add, because damn, those little lobsters are fast. It didn’t stop us from looking like fools as we tried, though.

    The next day we had lunch with someone who grew up on the island. She said that when recently asked by a tourist about how to capture the essence of PEI, she instructed them to walk along the beach. Preferably alone, to soak in the air, the atmosphere, the environment.

    Hey, we just did that. No wonder those moments caused us to chase beaches all over that tiny island. And, what we found was an array of special spots that suited us for a variety of occasions and moods.

    Our Favourite PEI Beaches

    Greenwich Beach

    Greenwich Beach was our very first stop; we were wooed by the promised scenic jaunt to reach it. It’s a two-kilometre easy walk, and not only is the beach itself worthy, but the walk-in is remarkable.

    On a boardwalk over a marsh, the still water was a dream to photograph, and the bird life in the area was entertaining to see and hear. The walk ends with a quick rise over dunes and then opens up to a beautiful stretch of soft white and red sand.

    Basin Head Beach

    This popular spot is also known as the “Singing Sands” beach for the sound it makes when you drag your feet in the sand. Except, duh, we didn’t understand that part until after we visited. No matter, it was still memorable for our daybreak stroll alone along the shore. The blank and foggy sky made the red cliffs and green moss absolutely pop, so it was a lot of fun to photograph.

    Augustine Cove

    During our second week on PEI we spent our nights perched here, on the edge of Augustine Cove. It was the most perfect place for us. A quick walk down our stairway during low tide had us exploring on the red sand and hunting for clams. There was always an array of puddles – perfect for wading in to cool off or just feel the squish sand beneath our toes.

    We barely saw anyone else on there during our week. It’s not exactly a lounging beach as it is mostly too wet, or perhaps it is just not on tourist’s radar. Yet we loved it. A perfect place to stroll and explore every detail up close.

    West Point

    We pulled up to this (almost) westernmost point of the island, pulled out our beach towels, and settled in for a sunset. That’s what this beach is about.

    Out of all the PEI beaches, this was definitely one of our favourites. The laid back chill that we felt here was why we spent many hours under the sun and watching it go down.

    Argyle Shores

    This favourite spot of ours technically isn’t in Argyle Provincial Park, but instead a bit east of it. Like a lot of secluded PEI beaches on the island we found this one by curiously following a dirt road that lead down to the shore. Sometimes it was a bust, but other times we found gems like this.

    Thundercove Beach

    The tea cup was what we came for. Upon arrival to Thundercove Beach it was a bit of a walk, but with the right time considering tides and light, we were rewarded with a stunning view of this distinctive red rock.

    There were many more, of course, as the entire island is practically encircled in soft beaches that are ripe for exploration. And that, for us, was the thrust of PEI’s appeal – the pleasure of tossing away maps and finding them for our own.

    **Update** Sadly the teacup is no longer there as it was destroyed by Hurricane Fiona. It’s still a gorgeous spot to explore.

    Things to Do Beyond the Beach

    Activities

    • Kayaking & Paddleboarding: Calm bays and inlets make PEI a paddler’s dream.
    • Cycling the Confederation Trail: Work off those lobster rolls on this scenic island-spanning route.
    • Lighthouses, Lots of Them: Over 60 still stand—great for photo-hopping.

    Where to Eat

    • Richard’s Seafood (Brackley): Fish and chips worth waiting in line for.
    • The Blue Mussel Café (North Rustico): Lobster rolls, mussels, and views.
    • Cows Ice Cream (everywhere): Because you can’t do PEI without at least one scoop.

    Fishing on PEI

    Whether it’s deep-sea tuna or a family mackerel trip, PEI is world-famous for its fishing culture. Charter boats leave from North Rustico, Souris, and several other harbours—expect salty air, plenty of laughs, and maybe dinner hooked straight from the sea.

    Most Scenic Spots on PEI

    • Greenwich Dunes Trail: A boardwalk that feels like walking into a painting.
    • Cape Tryon Lighthouse: One of the most photographed lighthouses on the island.
    • French River Lookout: A sweeping view of fishing boats, rolling hills, and patchwork farmland.

    Where to Stay in PEI

    Finding your own PEI beaches starts with a cottage stay near the water, and our week in the Watermelon Wine Cottage gave us exactly what we were looking for. Quiet, comfortable, and with a red beach just a few steps away, this was one place we truly wanted to change the locks on and never leave.

    Budget: Cavendish Breeze Inn – Cozy, affordable, and close to Cavendish Beach.

    Mid-Range: The Holman Grand Hotel (Charlottetown) – Central, modern, and walkable to the harbour.

    Luxury: Dalvay by the Sea – A historic inn straight out of a storybook, overlooking dunes and sea.

    Final Thoughts

    PEI beaches aren’t just places to swim—they’re places to slow down. You’ll find squeaky sands, gentle dunes, friendly locals, and just enough lobster shacks to make sure you never go hungry.

    Whether you stay for a week or just a salty afternoon, you’ll see why the island’s shores keep people coming back year after year.

  • Our Return to Thunder Bay: A 2-Day Guide to Exploring This Northern Ontario City

    Our Return to Thunder Bay: A 2-Day Guide to Exploring This Northern Ontario City

    This was not our first time in Thunder Bay, having stayed a few years ago for a few days while driving across Canada. That stay was due to our move to Nova Scotia, and our focus was single-minded: get ourselves (and our cat!) there quickly and safely. We didn’t leave much time for exploring.

    What we did see of Thunder Bay at the time told us one thing: We need to return. As hardcore lovers of nature, we knew that this city would agree with us. Sitting on the shores of Lake Superior and surrounded by extraordinary landscapes at every turn, it’s built for adventurers. And while we knew we’d be wowed at every step into the wilderness, we were eager to see what the city itself is about, too.

    With two very full days, we saw and learned a lot. If you’re planning your own excursion to Thunder Bay (as you should be!), we hope this guide will give you the same wonderful experiences we had.

    About Thunder Bay

    Located in Northwest Ontario, this city on the big shore has only held its name since 1970. Previously, Thunder Bay was known as both Fort William and Port Arthur, cities that date back to the 1800s. The merger of the two began with the combination of ports in 1906, and the full-fledged unification began in the 1950s, taking almost 20 years to complete.

    The area has long been an important transportation hub in Canada and is still one of the country’s busiest ports. Industries have come and gone from the city, and remnants of them still dot the shoreline. It’s a city that feels like it’s constantly evolving, but with steadfast attributes. Most notably, it holds a diverse community of kind people who are working to elevate the city to realize its full potential beyond industrial pursuits.

    How To Spend Two Days In Thunder Bay

    We assume that because you read this blog, you like what we like, and you’re here for our recount of beautiful experiences in nature, good food, and learning about communities via local initiatives. Trust us when we say that you can easily fill more than two days in the city, as there are many more options than what we’ve listed here, but the following list is a good start.

    Walk Canada’s Longest Suspension Bridge

    We arrived at the empty parking lot at Eagle Canyon Adventures as a fog hung low on the land. We were both immediately excited to have the place almost entirely to ourselves – walking on a 600ft bridge suspended 125ft above a canyon floor is not an experience we wanted to share with many others (whose jostling would spike our height-related fears).

    Let alone two suspension bridges. One apparently was not enough, and the smaller bridge serves as a good primer to allay any fears before reaching the second. The path through the area was well thought out and offered beautiful vistas along the way, after walking across the bridges, you can then descend into the canyon to stroll back. All in all, it should take no more than 30 minutes to walk it entirely, but we took our time and even launched the drone to capture our whole experience.

    Even when sharing the bridges with a couple of others who arrived after us, we weren’t dissuaded from enjoying ourselves. (Had we reached the max of 20 people as indicated on the warning sign, that might have been a different story!) We crossed the bridges once, then back again, and truly revelled in the experience from every angle.

    Don’t Miss Ouimet Canyon

    Very near Eagle Canyon is Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park, which is definitely worth the stop. The hike to the viewpoint is a flat, short, and accessible loop, with a platform to showcase the best perspective as the ravine stretches out below.

    Dig Out Your Own Sparkly Souvenir at an Amethyst Mine

    On this same road trip northeast of the city, a couple of amethyst mines are open for digging. We made a stop at the family-owned and operated Diamond Willow Amethyst Mine, took the loaner pail and trowel, and started searching for my birthstone.

    It didn’t take long before Pete unearthed a few worthy of a closer look. We returned to the shop, washed them up, and picked two to take home as souvenirs (for only $5). The friendly owner showed us around the area and relayed his whole process from finding the amethysts to cleaning and assessing their value before putting them on display. If you like sparkly things, the trip to the mine is worth it just to marvel at their “rock garden”, even if you do no digging.

    Feel the “Niagara of the North”

    Our one excursion on our first visit years ago was to see Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park. It is one of those attractions, however, that we could never tire of seeing.

    And this time around, the force of the water was intense; at several spots, we felt the cooling mist on our skin. The Falls, at 40m in height and the second highest in all of Ontario, are a truly impressive sight, and accessible from many angles. Just a few steps from the parking lot is a boardwalk that will take you to a quick viewing platform, and it also wraps around the top of the waterfall to the other side. Visitors can also camp, go hiking, and more. The whole park is well worth more time than we had to explore it.

    Get a View From Above at Anemki Wajiw

    Thunder Bay has no shortage of stunning viewpoints, and a quick drive up Anemki Wajiw gave us a gorgeous view of the city below. The sacred mountain itself holds significant meaning for the Anishinaabe people (and actually sits on the Fort William First Nation reserve). Translated, its name means “Thunder Mountain”.

    Pay Respect at the Terry Fox Monument

    Another important spot whose value exceeds its incredible scenery is the Terry Fox Monument and Visitor Centre. Yes, the monument offers magnificent views of Lake Superior, but what it stands for is much more significant.

    There are few Canadians who don’t know the impact Terry Fox had on our nation. As an amputee whose leg was lost due to osteosarcoma, he pledged to run across Canada in an effort to raise money for cancer research. He began in St John’s, Newfoundland, and ran a remarkable marathon every day, until his declining health forced him to stop near Thunder Bay. He died less than a year later.

    At the time he was forced to stop his run, his efforts had raised $1.7 million for cancer research, and he became a household name. Donations through the winter following amounted to a total of $23 million. His legacy endures to this day, and the annual Terry Fox Run continues to raise money for cancer research, with the grand total now approaching $1 billion.

    Explore the Waterfront

    The night we landed in Thunder Bay, Pete’s plan was to wander the waterfront and capture it while the city lights sparkled. However, his plans were thwarted by a thunderstorm; lightning streaked the sky, and the accompanying booms spoke of the city’s name.

    The next morning, the weather was better, and he was awake at sunrise to go for his morning walk. Just outside our hotel were walking paths leading to parks, wharfs, and along the bay shore. Despite the early hour, the waterfront was active. Numerous people were out for their morning walks, runs, and coffee meetups. A Tai-Chi class was happening in the Taiji park. There was even an open field where a stage was set up for free concerts during the week.

    We would both return later to explore again and browse the shops that also dot the waterfront. Along with an ice cream cart and a couple of spots to eat, we could easily see why the Waterfront District is so beloved by locals and visitors alike.

    Sail the Harbour

    Walking the harbourfront is one thing, exploring it by water is even better, and we were excited to ride the gentle waves with Sail Superior for a couple of hours.

    Greg, the owner, took us for a cruise along the waterfront and out to the break wall. Only a true Thunder Bayite could relay the information Greg did as he sailed, enlightening us on his city’s history, pointing out the remnants of industry that still stand on the shoreline, and even advising on where we could take some great photos. The only thing that would have made the cruise better would have been wine and cheese along with the sunset (which Sail Superior does offer on other days)!

    Explore Fort William Historical Park

    It always truly fascinates us that the European investment in settling Canada was largely because of one thing: fashion.

    Namely, because of beaver pelts that could be made into stylish hats. Indigenous Peoples had been living in the area surrounding Thunder Bay for thousands of years prior, but in the early 1800s, Fort William became the center of a vast trading network. Every July, proponents of the North West Company (an early rival of the Hudson’s Bay Company, largely comprised of Scottish merchants and Canadian traders) would meet there for Rendezvous, which can best be described as a large trade fair. This central meeting place would invite trappers from the north and west to trade with merchants arriving from Montreal. As many as two thousand braved the long journey in birchbark canoes to participate annually.

    Fort William Historical Park is a replication of this large meeting place. Visitors are able to step back into the early 1800s and be guided through the many buildings that encompassed it, from accommodations for the company’s top men to canoe repair shops to a great dining hall and more. The setting is also quite spectacular, making this a can’t-miss stop.

    Try All the Local Brews

    Thunder Bay’s craft beer scene is small but mighty; we visited three breweries and each had their own distinct vibe. We loved their creativity when using the area’s fresh ingredients to create some surprisingly nuanced and delicious beers.

    Dawson Trail Craft Brewery – Huge taproom, gourmet pizzas and hot dogs, and most importantly plenty of beers on tap. Both of our favourites beers from Thunder Bay came from this brewery. Pete loved the Running Stone Red Ale and mine was the Cucumber Gose! Dawson Trail has a great selection and a laid-back feel.

    Sleeping Giant Brewing Company – This woman-owned brewery stands tall in Thunder Bay. Sleeping Giant really leans into the local heritage with brews named after landmarks and a taproom that’s a true community hub. Apart from the huge selection of brews and gorgeous gift shop full of local goodies (and beer), we absolutely loved the shout-out to Mr. Canoehead, their award winning Red Ale. (80s kids…unite! Of course we paid homage to “Four on the Floor” and watched some Mr. Canoehead while drinking a Mr. Canoehead.)

    Lakehead Beer Company – Right smack in the middle of downtown is this cool brewery serving up a small selection of beers. What’s cool about this place is that they pour the beers directly from the vessels they were made in, making it as fresh as possible. Pete thought their IPA was crisp, hoppy and delicious. The Detroit-style pizza being served from Subdivision also caught our eye (and stomach). If we didn’t already have dinner reservations, we would have had our own.

    Sleeping Giant Brew Co

    Snack on a Persian

    The few people who knew we were going to Thunder Bay and were familiar with the city all said the same thing: You HAVE to try a persian from The Persian Man.

    There is no Middle Eastern connection to the name or food (like we initially thought). The story goes that their creator, Art Bennet, was making them while talking to a US World War I General named “Pershing”. It was such a memorable meeting for Art that he gave the treat a similar name! Persians have been around for ~80 years and are an institution in the city.

    We can’t even explain why they are so good, but they are. They seem to simply be a fluffy donut/cinnamon swirl covered in light berry frosting. Super basic but super delicious, and we were wowed enough to snack on a few during our short stay.

    Eat Very Well

    Thunder Bay delighted us in many ways, and our dining experiences were no exception. The breakfasts were hearty, our grab-and-go lunch options were plentiful, and we truly savoured top-quality dinners.

    Tomlin Restaurant – This top spot did not disappoint. After suffering decision paralysis for many minutes after sitting down, we finally settled on sharing plates that had us each fighting for the last bite. This included the charred broccolini, tomato and strawberry salad, and the beef tartare.

    Grotto Trattoria – As the name suggests, it’s all Italian here. We were served gigantic plates of carbs – lasagna and a chicken carbonara-style dish – both of which we enjoyed but neither of which we were able to finish.

    Tina’s Breakfast and Lunch and Daytona’s Restaurant – Both of these spots served essential breakfast classics and much-needed fuel for busy days exploring. A special shout-out must be given to the chicken and waffles at Daytona’s!

    Uncommon Goods – We bought the last two perogy buns at this bakery inside the Goods & Co Market, and if there had been more, we would have immediately returned to clean them out.

    Barkeep Cocktails – Not an eating establishment (besides snacks), but worth noting as a conveniently situated downtown spot to wait out your time to get into any restaurant (as we had to for Tomlin).

    Prime Gelato – Take advantage of this new spot to get something sweet after dinner (and lighter fare than most restaurant desserts).

    Our Focus on Supporting Women-Owned Businesses

    When we drove across Canada and made our first-ever stop in Thunder Bay, we made a specific effort to support women-owned and minority businesses.On our return, we decided to do the same.

    It was easy. A quick search via Google Maps, and we found several of the businesses mentioned above (Sleeping Giant Brewing Company, Prime Gelato) were all women-owned. We also stopped at a number of others including Goods and Co, a collective space on the Thunder Bay waterfront home to a number women and minority owned shops and restaurants.

    Where to Stay

    There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Thunder Bay, but we highly recommend staying at the Delta Hotels Marriott, the only hotel right on the Thunder Bay waterfront. Downtown is easily walkable from it, and the rooms are cozy and comfortable. The amenities make this place: There are stand-up paddle boards and bicycles available to guests, a full gym, and a Starbucks right in the lobby for our morning caffeine fix.

  • The Facade of Old Town Gdańsk

    The Facade of Old Town Gdańsk

    If cities were novels, Gdańsk’s Old Town would be a page-turner you can’t put down.

    Wedged on Poland’s northern coast, this once-thriving port has seen everything from medieval merchants to shipyard strikes, and somehow it’s still managed to look like it belongs on a storybook cover. Think colourful merchant houses, cobblestone streets, and spires that seem to poke holes in the Baltic sky.

    So, if you’re plotting a trip to Poland and wondering whether to make time for Gdańsk — spoiler alert: you absolutely should.

    Wandering the Old Town (a.k.a. Things You Can’t Miss)

    • Dlugi Targ (Long Market): This is Old Town’s catwalk, lined with pastel-hued facades and capped by the impressive Neptune Fountain. Perfect for people-watching and pretending you’re in a Renaissance painting.
    • St. Mary’s Basilica: It’s one of the largest brick churches in the world. Climb its 400+ steps for views that will either take your breath away or make you regret skipping cardio.
    • The Crane (Żuraw): This hulking medieval port crane is part museum, part reminder that the city’s economy once ran on muscle and pulleys.
    • Motława River Promenade: Grab a gelato, stroll along the water, and watch the mix of old galleons and modern yachts bob side by side.
    • European Solidarity Centre: A sleek, modern museum just outside the Old Town that dives into the rise of the Solidarity movement and how it shaped Europe. Heavy history, brilliantly told.

    Where to Stay in Gdańsk’s Old Town

    One of the best things about Gdańsk is that you can stay smack in the middle of Old Town without breaking the bank. Hotels and guesthouses are everywhere, and most keep the charm factor high.

    Budget-Friendly

    • La Guitarra Hostel: Quirky, social, and right by the river. Perfect if you’d rather spend your money on pierogi than pillows.
    • Stay Inn Hotel: Affordable but stylish, with comfy rooms and a location across from St. Mary’s Basilica.

    Mid-Range Sweet Spot

    • PURO Gdańsk Stare Miasto: Modern, hip, and walking distance from everything. Think Netflix in your room, good coffee downstairs, and design that feels more boutique than the price tag suggests.
    • Hotel Artus: Steps from Long Market, it has cozy rooms with a splash of character and great value for the location.

    Splurge-Worthy

    • Radisson Blu Hotel, Gdańsk: Old Town location with big, plush rooms and just the right amount of polish.
    • Hotel Podewils: A boutique stay overlooking the Motława River. More intimate, with views that will make you feel like you own a ship or two.

    Our Experience

    There is no doubt that old town Gdańsk is pretty.

    Muted hues of orange, yellow, green and more alternate on the skinny buildings. Some are adorned with elaborate casings and paintings. The clock tower anchors and dominates Dluga (Long) street, with St Mary’s Church, the largest brick church in Europe, just off to the side.

    But as we wandered through Gdańsk old town, I couldn’t help but be distracted by something else.

    “It’s all fake!” the lady at the tourist information office had bluntly proclaimed just minutes before our maiden walk into Old Town. “All the decoration is not real. It all sits on top of concrete Soviet buildings.”

    90% of Gdańsk was destroyed in WWII (then known as the “Free City of Danzig”); in fact, the first shots of the war were fired just a few miles away from the Old Town as Germany began their invasion of Poland. Following the end of the war, much debate existed over how to reconstruct the city. Harsh anti-German sentiment wanted to rid the city of all remnants of it (leading up to the war, Germans constituted the large majority of the population), but much debate continued over how to reconstruct it. An homage to the old days, and which period? Modern architecture? Socialist realism (Soviet)?

    The result? A complete mix of old and new with a variety of influences within the structures, and the old world painted right on top. And, as another traveler suggested to us: “it’s kinda Disney-ish”.

    I could understand where he and the tourist office employee were coming from. Some elements to the facade are questionable, over-the-top even, and definitely don’t speak to the “old world” feel that is intended.

    But ultimately, how can it? This small city, all but destroyed in a war, will never have all the elegant antiquity that other cities across Europe manifest. But that doesn’t mean it is lacking for charm – spending just five minutes in the center we were enamoured with the many talents of the variety of street performers, the clock striking on the impressive Town Hall tower, and the buzz of boats and people along the canal.

    Looking beyond the outward appearance of any place should be the endeavour of any thoughtful traveler anyways. Taken at face value, and being mindful of its tragic past, Gdańsk carries considerable appeal, well beyond its curb.

    Final Thoughts

    Gdańsk’s Old Town is the kind of place where you can spend an entire day gawking at architecture, another day untangling its history, and yet another just lingering by the river with an ice cream in hand.

    It’s compact, walkable, and brimming with atmosphere—the kind of destination that sneaks up on you and ends up being the highlight of your Poland trip.

    So, bring good shoes, a decent appetite, and maybe a camera that can handle pastel overload.

    Gdańsk is waiting.

  • Athena the Protector

    Athena the Protector

    He was dressed smartly in a collared navy button-down and crisp khaki pants. I don’t think he worked for the transit authority in Athens, but instead waited by the gates to help any travelers who looked perplexed by the system. There were a lot of them. “And watch your stuff,” he routinely called out after giving directions and sending commuters on their way.

    I purchased my ticket but saw no map and was unsure of where to go next. I approached the elderly man and asked which train I needed to get to the Halandri stop. He furrowed his brow; I had clearly stumped him. No matter though, as the gentleman turned and called out my stop name until another local perked up and offered to help. The young lady waited as I crossed the turnstile and then walked me to the staircase that would lead to the proper platform. “Go down and turn left,” she said. “And watch your stuff!” I expressed a rush of gratitude for this quick but crucial exchange. (The pair’s eagerness to help reminded me of our time in Turkey, but I dared not tell any locals that. I was warned to not even mistakenly call a Greek coffee a Turkish coffee, so I knew to keep further comparisons to myself).

    I had embarked on solo travel in Athens worried for my nine days alone, but instead, I felt well taken care of at every step. This capital of Greece proved true to its namesake. As I set out to explore the city and beyond, Athena the Protector kept me safe and very, very happy.

    A few of my standout experiences are documented below.

    Truly and ridiculously happy. (And maybe a little sweaty.)

    Temple of Poseidon

    I’m not a bold solo traveler – I rarely head out on my own – but I found myself feeling inspired on this trip. I stayed outside the tourist area (although Kolonaki may soon be considered as such), and walked to and from the city’s attractions every day. And while it may sound silly to some, my transit experience was perhaps the most adventurous of all I did, taking me to a suburb that not even the quasi-transit authority employee knew about.

    Having arrived safely in Halandri, I hopped on a small tour bus (there ended the adventurous portion of my trip!) for a ride to see the Temple of Poseidon on the coast. Roughly an hour away, the time was filled with a local guide disclosing facts about the destination. He took us from the ancient past until modern day, relaying ample facts about the Temple at our destination and its importance as a major monument of the Golden Age. That would be all the time our guide had with us, as he was not allowed to lead us inside the gates surrounding the sacred place. I always prefer this sort of tour, to be honest, so that the precious time visiting the attraction can be spent as I desire with information already in hand.

    I chose to take the sunset tour and am perplexed why anyone would do otherwise. The crowds were not large, and even though I have seen plenty of ancient buildings with a stature that easily rivals that Temple, the dusky coastal views and atmosphere were what made this experience stand out.

    When the sun finally sunk below the horizon, the dozens of people remaining clapped and hooted in approval. Seconds later, that rapturous moment ended as the gate attendant bluntly yelled at us all to get the hell out. (Well, maybe not in those exact words, but the tone was unmistakable.) I boarded the bus and headed back into Athens, nodding off as the darkness of the day deepened.

    The Mighty Acropolis

    The city wasn’t always named after the goddess. In the ancient world, King Cecrops, the first royal leader, wanted to give the city a patron god or goddess. According to legend, Athena presented the city with an olive tree; such a practical gift bested Poseidon’s offering of a river of seawater. And thus Athena was named the patroness, and the city henceforth bore her name. Later, the Parthenon, that most famous building towering over the city on a rocky outcrop near its center, would be built in her honour.

    Visiting the Parthenon and the other buildings that make up the Acropolis is the single biggest attraction in the city, and rightly so. It’s an unmistakable treasure of dozens of centuries past, standing as a testament to a powerful civilization, and offers a perspective over the area like none other. With over a week stretched out in front of me, I waited until the best possible time to visit, favouring the latter half of the day when most other tourists were already on their way out. Hordes of people still swarmed the site but quiet, shady corners were still available to just sit and admire.

    I eat, therefore I know

    Did you know that the frappé was invented in Greece? I didn’t until I arrived, but happily gained insight into Greek culture by enjoying it (or a Freddo Cappuccino) every single afternoon. Greek coffee culture is something to be admired.

    As is their cuisine, which of course is of no surprise to anyone. And even though Pete is the esteemed chef of the Heck household, I could not pass up the opportunity to learn my favourite dishes and take home recipes that have become my most beloved souvenir. Pete’s rampant enthusiasm for cooking paired with our travels have allowed us to relive fantastic memories right in our kitchen, but after just one morning with The Greek Kitchen, I have henceforth declared this cuisine to be my domain and he’s not allowed to attempt it.

    I am so proud of this spanikopita, even if it did split while baking.

    It started with a tour to several markets in the area, something that had been on my to-do list since I arrived in Athens, but always better done with a local who knows her way around. From a cheese shop to rows of meat and fresh veggies, I learned of what raw ingredients are most precious to Greek fare and how to choose them.

    Back in the kitchen, we (myself and one other participant from Singapore) set to work. We chopped spinach and garlic; shredded carrots and cucumber. We rolled vine leaves, unrolled sheets of phyllo pastry, squeezed lemons and scooped roasted eggplants. We sipped generous offers of local wines as we cooked up a storm and finally sat down to an epic feast that I still salivate about today.

    It was such a large array of food that I had enough to feed myself that night and again the next day. I always knew that I liked Greek cuisine, but this experience firmly moved it into the category of love.

    Dolmades
    THE FEAST

    When Pete returned from his Greek island tour after many days away, he did not find a mopey wife craving all of his attention. He found me to be a little more inspired, and a little more empowered and brave. (And maybe just a little bit plumper from all that food and all those frappés.)

    I give Athens full credit/blame for all of it, and most especially for the wee turning point that happened within.

    how to do it

    I found this cozy apartment in Kolonaki that perfectly suited my needs. It got a wee bit noisy on weekend nights (being over a bar), but was otherwise very comfortable and within walking distance to just about everything, including a transit station if anything else was too far. The patio is especially large and was very well used by me!

  • Under the Umbrian Sun

    Under the Umbrian Sun

    We landed in the middle of Umbria by default. With two weeks to spare in Italy we cast a wide net – the small, historic town of Spello won out as being one of the only places where we could find an apartment to meet our basic needs. What we didn’t know at the time of booking was how truly captivated we would be. Umbria alone stands as a true testament to the diversity of Italy and even though we’ve now spent several months in the country on several different visits, we come away each time knowing there is still so much left to see and do. Each visit encourages us to return and dig deeper.

    Umbria does not get near the attention its neighbour Tuscany does. It hangs in the shadow of tourist magnets Florence and Pisa. Its most popular town of Assisi can get overrun with day-trippers, but few linger to really explore. That fact, for these travellers, is part of Umbria’s infinite draw. And our two weeks there saw us road-trippin’ to far corners of it and even a little beyond, to bring you a photographic tour of the beauty in this region.

    spello

    It may lack the spiritual significance of nearby Assisi, but anyone looking to share a slice with locals and enjoy an undisturbed photo shoot in a medieval hill town will adore Spello. Most attractions are strung along the main street inside the walls, but the best part is exploring the tidy streets surrounding.

    assisi

    Millions of visitors descend on Assisi each year, drawn by the story of its most famous resident: St Francis. The town has two medieval castles, scores of tourist services to cater to the millions, and of course the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi anchors the historic center at the north end. Italian will not be the first language you hear, but it is a great place to watch nationalities gather and to even help a group of priests from India take a selfie from one of the many vantage points (yep, that happened).

    spoleto

    A rebuilt Roman theatre, a fortress, a “bloody bridge” named so after the persecution of Christians nearby, and a stunning 13th-century aqueduct that spans a deep gorge and offers sprawling views of the valleys beyond are all offered in Spoleto. Our visit there was one of more memorable trips in the region – but not for a pleasant reason. We spent most of the drive there arguing over who was responsible for our missing the best light of the day for photographs. It is most spectacular at sunset, but take it from BOTH of us, arrive a good hour or two before to avoid the lengthy shadows that fall across the aqueduct.

    todi

    On our inevitable return to Umbria, we may consider a stay here if not back in Spello. Another adorable hilled town, it towers high above and offers the best views in the area. It’s a real wonder how we were able to waltz through the historic centre almost entirely alone.

    santa maria degli angeli

    You can see it for miles, the rise of a massive church that towers in the valley below Assisi. The town itself isn’t the main draw, it lacks the quaint charm of its elevated neighbours, but the church is the reason to go. Because it is not just a massive Basilica by the same name, it is a massive Basilica that encloses a tiny church inside that dates centuries earlier.

    castelluccio

    Much, much more to share from the drive to this tiny town through what is known as the “Piano Grande” . It is hands down the most scenic spot we’ve been to in Italy.

    civita di bagnoregio

    Okay, so this isn’t technically Umbria. It’s just over the provincial border into Viterbo, but it’s so close that it would be a shame to miss it. As a feature in an episode of the Amazing Race, it had been at the top of Pete’s to-photograph-list for awhile, and so it became a memorable excursion to celebrate his birthday.

    Thanks to an earthquake in the 17th century, the town has since eroded to become an island, and the population has dwindled down to as low as 6 residents in the last century. It now has a vibrant tourism economy, but is still known as “the town that is dying” and is considered an endangered site.

    We also missed a few other notable spots: the capital city of Perugia, the man-made Marmore waterfalls, Orvieto and more. But as it goes for these travelers, our allotted time is never enough. So instead we leave new destinations for our return.

  • Our Favourite Photos From Molokai, Lanai and Maui

    Our Favourite Photos From Molokai, Lanai and Maui

    Heading to the eastern end of Molokai we passed a shirtless, well-tanned man sitting on a guradrail amidst tall emerald grass curling all around him. He was, as far as we could tell while driving at the speed limit, tuning his ukelele.

    Could we have possibly seen anything more typically Hawaiian?

    Actually, the answer was yes, on that small island that is often described as being “old” Hawaii. From the magical afternoon spent with cultural icons, to the explicit reminder on road signs that things are different there. There is no spa, no luau offered just for tourists.

    Molokai is as off-beaten as it gets in this clump of islands in the middle of the Pacific.

    Photos from Moloka’i

    Photos from Lana’i

    And then there were some subtle, but mostly drastic, changes when we made the quick hop to Lanai. Palm trees were replaced by Cook pines, the soil was a vibrant burnt red and cool breezes cut through the sun’s punishing rays.

    It was as laid-back and casual as Molokai but a little more polished in order to cater to the tourists that usually crawl the island. With the two big resorts closed for renovations, it was much quieter than we expected.

    Photos from Maui

    And then onto Maui with even bigger changes. Modern in infrastructure and offerings and with a bigger population, tourism is much more present. Maui didn’t fail to surprise us though, even on the second time around, of the abundant laid-back Hawaiian spirit. And that second experience cemented our fond opinion for us. Even when seen at its most commercial, Hawaii stands out as the most adored state we’ve ever visited.

    Although only tiny plane rides exist between the islands, it was startling, when seen back to back, how different they all really are. There truly is something for everyone.

    Where to Stay

    Where to Stay on Moloka’i

    Castle at Moloka’i Shores – Staying here makes life easy. Nestled in Kaunakakai Castle at Moloka’i Shores offers family rooms each equipped with private bathrooms, a balcony with sea views, a fully equipped kitchen, and a dishwasher.

    Where to Stay on Lana’i

    Hotel Lanai – Located right in the heart of Lana’i City, Hotel Lanai offers air-conditioned rooms to all its guests, along with free WIFI, private bathrooms and is only ten minutes from the airport. It’s perfect for your stay on the island.

    Where to Stay on Maui

    Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa (A Waldorf Astoria Resort) – For our last few days in Maui we were welcomed back into the magnificent Grand Wailea.

  • Why & How To Live in Venice, Italy

    Why & How To Live in Venice, Italy

    Imagine waking up every morning in a destination that most people only dream of travelling to. Imagine calling a city that is effortlessly combines history and romance, with a touch of whimsy, your new home.

    Delve into the bustling morning rituals of the locals, as they navigate the labyrinth of canals in graceful gondolas, or sip their morning espresso in charming cafés.

    Immerse yourself in the vibrant colours and delightful chaos of daily markets, where the tantalizing aromas of fresh Mediterranean seafood and local Italian produce fill the air.

    Ah, Venezia. Sometime’s it is impossible to believe that it’s a real city.

    To live in Venice, Italy is an exciting endeavour, but it does involve a certain number of steps to consider ahead of time. Here’s a general overview of the process and some key points to keep in mind.

    Things To Consider Before You Live in Venice

    Research & Planning

    Start by conducting general research about how to live in Venice. Learn about the culture, lifestyle, cost of living, transportation, and possibly job opportunities if you want to work.

    Consider factors such as language proficiency (Italian is important for daily life), housing options, healthcare, and education if applicable.

    We learned about the life of Venetians as a part of our Walks of Italy tour, which also included a gondola ride (the cost of a gondola ride on its own is much more expensive then the cost of this entire tour! Very worth it).

    Visa Requirements

    As a foreigner, you will typically need a visa to work and live in the city of Venice and the rest of Italy. The type of visa you require will depend on your circumstances, such as employment or study.

    You will need to go to the website of the Italian embassy or consulate in your home country to understand the specific visa requirements and gather the necessary documents. You can e mail for more information, and to get assistance with your future planning.

    Residence Permit

    Once you arrive in Venice with a visa, you must obtain a Permesso di Soggiorno (residence permit) within a specific timeframe. This process involves submitting additional documents, such as proof of accommodation, proof of financial means, health insurance, and a valid visa.

    If you are moving with your family, make sure that everyone is covered.

    Finding Real Estate in to live in Venice

    Venice is known for its fantastic architecture, but to find affordable housing within the floating city can be quite difficult, particularly in the historic centre.

    You will need to begin searching for accommodation well in advance and consider exploring the neighbouring areas for more affordable options, even many Venetians that work here prefer to commute into the city. Taking a boat to work? Say no more.

    Depending on your budget, renting will likely be easier than trying to buy property to live in Venice, and you may need to visit Venice beforehand to scope things out on foot first.

    Where We Stayed in Venice

    Finding affordable accommodations to visit the city of Venice can be difficult (and we left it far too late as well, book early)! We found this one to be a bit crowded but a good place for the short time we were there. It was near a bus stop so easy to get into Venice.

    Try checking hotels situated on the Venice side streets for more affordable options.

    Other options:

    High-End Hotel

    The incredibly elegant Gritti Palace has unbelievable views of the canal, a great restaurant, and is overall an amazing experience.

    Mid-Range Hotel

    Hotel Al Codega is a great boutique hotel option where the service feels personalized. It’s located right between St Marks Square and the Rialto Bridge, but is away from the hustle and bustle on the side streets.

    Budget Hotel

    The hotel keeper at Alloggi Barbaria speaks 7 languages, and would be more than happy to give you a map and tell you how to get around the city. The rooms are simple, but a continental breakfast is offered before you take on the day.

    Integration & Language

    Embracing the local language and culture in is essential for a smooth transition when moving anywhere. Consider taking Italian classes to help enhance your day to day communication skills, and immerse yourself in the Venetian way of life.

    Job Opportunities

    If you plan to work in Venice, Italy, research the local job market and understand any specific requirements or qualifications needed in your field. Try networking, online job portals, and contacting local companies to help in securing employment ahead of time.

    Length of the Process

    The time required for the entire process of live in the city of Venice can vary depending on your home country, such as visa processing times and availability of appointments. You should definitely start the process well in advance, as some steps may take several months to complete.

    Expat Community

    Venice is a popular destination for tourists and expatriates alike. You will find a diverse community of foreigners, which can provide a support system and you integrate to your new life. Having friends in a new place always makes things a little easier.

    While the process of moving to Venice does involve certain logistical challenges, with careful planning and preparation, it is possible to make this dream a reality.

    Not that you needed any convincing, but let’s talk abut the unique benefits of living in Venice, Italy. There are more than a few, and might even sway your decision to stay in this enticing destination longer than planned.

    Here are some reasons why it can be a wonderful place to live..

    Benefits to Live In Venice

    Culinary Delights

    Italy is known for its exceptional cuisine, and Venice is no exception. Indulge traditional pasta dishes, seafood straight from the Adriatic Sea, delectable gelato, and exquisite wines. Venice offers a culinary journey that will delight foodies and satisfy even the most hard-to-please palates.

    Proximity to Other European Destinations

    Being in the heart of Europe provides convenient access to explore the rest of the continent, to even jet off to Africa or Asia as ease. Take a short train ride to tour Florence, Rome, or Milan, or perhaps venture a bit further to experience the nearby wonders of Austria, Slovenia, or Croatia.

    Venice, Italy is located at the doorstep of Europe, and the rest of the world.

    The Culture of Venice

    The local culture of Venice boasts magnificent landmarks like St. Mark’s Basilica, Piazza San Marco, Doge’s Palace, The Grand Canal, and the Rialto Bridge. Living in the floating city allows you to immerse yourself in this vibrant cultural tapestry, surrounded by masterpieces of art and centuries of captivating stories.

    There will be something new to learn every day in this lagoon city.

    Unique Lifestyle

    The Venetian lifestyle, even compared to the rest of Italy, is undeniably distinctive and captivating. It invites you to embrace a slower pace, relishing in the simple joys of leisurely strolls, savouring mouthwatering Italian cuisine, and delighting in refreshing aperitivos by the water’s edge.

    The close-knit neighbourhoods and tight-knit community foster a warm and inviting ambiance, making you feel right at home in this unique city.

    Cultural Events and Festivals

    Venice hosts an array of cultural events and festivals unlike any other throughout the year. From the renowned Venice Carnival with its elaborate masks and costumes to the Venice Biennale, one of the world’s most prestigious art exhibitions, you will never lack something to celebrate.

    Our Experience

    In our unique situation of being homeless for more than five years, I expect that we look at most destinations differently than other tourists in that we sometimes value a place based on our desire to live there. And being the rose-rimmed people that we are, the answer is often yes (at least for a short term). There are rarely places that we don’t like and write off immediately.

    But to put the city of Venice under such a microscope is a tough one. All the extraordinary things that make the city a wonder for tourists may also be that which makes it unbearable as a resident.

    The island poses many confusing contradictions: a slower pace with the lack of cars, yet home to such a thriving tourism industry that the tiny streets become clogged with millions of annual visitors.

    The canals, adorned with vibrant old-world buildings that appear to float on them, cause heartless humidity and highlight its obvious fragility. Venice is sinking, some say at up to a rate of almost eight inches every century and flooding is a regular occurrence.

    The island is sinking and the population is shrinking. There are less than 60,000 people living in the city, and more than that many step off of cruise ships each day to snap selfies, buy souvenirs from the shops, and be on their way. And it’s not likely that those souvenirs are even in support of the artists who live there, but instead are cheap knock-offs imported from the east. Venice’s economy is almost entirely dependent on the mass tourism, but struggles to find balance with it.

    While only a couple of kilometres wide, it can take up an hour to cross the small island, given the maze of tiny streets and bridges. Food is much more expensive than on the mainland, plus the groceries, and any other purchase for that matter, are most often lugged in shoulder bags from market to home. Bicycles are allowed only for children.

    I would suppose that to enjoy living in Venice would be to accept it as a challenging lifestyle and a specific way of life. After awhile, it would all likely seem very normal, similar to how this vagabond lifestyle has become for us.

    I expect it would be worth it (especially for being able to see this best view in Venice on the daily). Not only is Venice the pure definition of romance (maybe even moreso than any other place we’ve ever visited), and any place that requires rowing as a livable skill would be acceptable by us.

    (For a little while, at least, which is our answer almost every time we pose this question. Venice, Italy is a bit of a “thinker” though.)

    So, now that you are armed with all of the knowledge to begin the steps to move to Italy, and you know all of the reason you will love living there, the only question is when do you leave?

    Venice beckons you to embark on a life filled with beauty, culture, and unforgettable experiences.

    It’s not just a dream—it can be your reality.

  • Romanian Eats

    Romanian Eats

    Before we arrived in Romania my idea of their typical cuisine was meat and potatoes. I expected that vegetables were pretty much non-existent in Romanian food and finding a good salad would be a challenge.

    I was half right. Meat is definitely a big part of Romanian food, and they really know how to do meat right. Starches are served with every meal. Salads were a challenge, at least ones without cabbage in them, but not impossible to find.

    So what did we eat?

    soup

    Bean soup (pictured left) is a staple in Romania. It is prepared differently in various regions throughout the country, but the concept is similar: stick-to-the-bones-soul-food. My favourite variation was in Bucharest, prepared with bacon and vegetables and served in a bread bowl. While in Sinca Noua more we savoured a chicken noodle soup and a pork rib and vegetable soup (bones still in) as a starter to every meal.

    meat

    The Romanians know meat, especially sausage. Upon visiting numerous traditional Romanian restaurants we usually found a whole section dedicated to sausages alone. The most common being mici (pronounced michi) which is a finger sized grilled mince meat sausage, usually consisting of beef mixed with pork and sheep, and then heavily spiced with garlic, pepper and paprika. These are quite common in street food stalls accompanied with a pint of beer. Menus will have easy items such as pork and chicken schnitzels, and for the more adventurous eaters the Romanians embrace the “whole animal” concept. We found brains, testicles and other parts of the pig on the menu and we put it to ourFacebook fans to decide which one I would try. The testicles pictured above won out – they were quite tasty but a little chewy.

    typical meals

    Typical Romanian food consists of a meat and a carb. Sarmale (pictured upper left, better known as cabbage rolls) is one of Dalene’s favourite meals and very typical throughout the country and entire region. A pilaf (bottom left) with tomatoes, carrots, onions and dill, and mashed potatoes soaked in butter (bottom right) is also popular. On another occasion I enjoyed a blended grilled meat dish served in a phylo pastry bowl to absorb all the juices from the meat.

    Pizza is also very common throughout Romania – in some towns your only restaurant choices will be Romanian and a pizza joint. Although it is no Italy, the pie is generally cheap and tasty. The menus also have sauces on the side (tomato and spicy) and are recommended as generally the sauce is spread thin on the dough.

    side dishes

    Potatoes, polenta, rice. One thing to be aware of when ordering food in a Romanian restaurant is that main dishes do not come with sides. Peasant potatoes (pictured left) was one of our favourite side dishes and how could it not be? Pan fried potatoes with big chunks of bacon and onions. Polenta is also a very popular Romanian side dish and it is served in various ways, the most common being mamaliga, topped with cheese and sour cream (pictured top right) or with traditional cheese baked inside (middle right). One thing is for sure, ordering one of these side dishes with our meal meant that we never left the restaurant feeling hungry.

    Salads generally consisted of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and or cabbage. While we ordered a salad with every meal after a couple weeks our bodies were craving green veggies.

    Our last city in Romania was Sibiu where we managed to find an incredible salad (bottom left). Topped with goat cheese, hazelnuts and an assortment of fresh vegetables with a vinaigrette glaze, it was a nice change from the heavy Romanian food.

    desserts and sweets

    Known as the Romanian donut, Gogosi is pan fried dough tossed with icing sugar. Dalene had the chance to make these with the family during our stay in Sinca Noua and learned the secret ingredient of lemon zest in the dough to give it just a hint of citrus.

    We had expected to see dumplings on menus as side dishes or mains, but surprisingly we only found them in the dessert sections topped with fruit or chocolate.

    Upon leaving Sinca Noua, our host family gave us a bag of cozonac for the journey. This light pound cake did not last the journey.

    drink

    I was shocked how much I enjoyed Romanian beer. I was expecting typical lager type brews with not much variety. Instead I found there are some very nice dark beers and best of all, very cheap. The dark beers I enjoyed were Ursus Black and Silva. Dalene enjoyed the Ursus Lemon which is a low alcohol percentage radler type beer, refreshing on a hot day.

    Romania has mastered the art of lemonade. Every restaurant offers it freshly squeezed and some even put there creative spins on the beverage. From basic mint to mixed berries we tried all sorts of blends.

    Palinka is a double distilled product with an alcohol percentage between 40-70% and is made from fermented plums. It is found all throughout Romania and we both think that this might be the secret to the long life of the Romanians.

    Another popular liquor, vișinată or visne is made by mixing fermented sour cherries with sugar and vodka. The quality of the drink highly depends on the quality of the fruit and it is why it is recommended that the fruit be hand picked. After the 100 days the fruit is filtered out leaving a smooth syrupy goodness.

    overall

    Our impression of what Romanian food would be like was not far off. Heavy, simple meals consisting mainly of meat and carbs which are intended to stick to one’s bones. We enjoyed most of the food, but were excited to find a green leafy salad after a month.

    While we stayed over a month, we definitely didn’t get a chance to try it all, and a Romanian menu is a diverse one.