Author: Kristen Haynes

Space. It’s the final frontier. And for most, it will never be reachable. But we can wonder and learn from the select few who have been there, and lucky for me, I recently had that opportunity at the Dark Sky Festival in Jasper. It was the first night of the festival at the VIP Stargazing Reception when I met Bob. He came up to my table, where I was chatting with a few colleagues; Bob asked to join our conversation, and we gladly welcomed him. We learned that he had traveled to Jasper from Ontario and was retired. I asked him the same question that our table had just been chatting about.

“If you had the chance to be on the first ship for a tourist excursion to space, would you do it?” All of our answers were similar. Despite the risk and leaving behind loved ones, we all agreed with a resounding yes.

Little did we know at that point who our new friend really was. The next day, Bob took the stage for the main event panel “Spacetalks”. And I was stunned to find out that Bob is better known as Dr. Robert Thirsk (yes, this guy). He is the Canadian who holds the record for longest number of consecutive days in space at 204. (You think he would have mentioned that the night before? Maybe a “Nahhh, I’ve already done that…” to our question about space exploration. But no. His Canadian modesty shone through and he played along, sharing his eagerness to return to space and explore like the rest of us.)

And with my jaw dropped for the most of his panel, I enthusiastically listened to Bob chat about the race to Mars, the importance of space exploration, and what it means to have Canada involved in such fascinating programs.

So when I think of the Jasper Dark Festival, it’s not only the actual stars in the sky that are the feature draw. It’s also about gazing at the stars who grace the stage.

Apart from Dr Thirsk, Col. Chris Hadfield (link), and the Kelly brothers (Mark and Scott), have been previous guests and shared their adventures and future insight into space programs.

And then there are the engineers and artists of which space exploration is a passion. George Takei aka “Sulu” for those Star Trek fans, Jay Abumrad – one of the co-hosts on the popular podcast Radiolab, and Dr. Shawna Pandya – the physician, speaker, citizen-scientist astronaut & aquanaut, and martial artist are just a FEW of whom have been guests throughout the years.

More About the Jasper Dark Sky Festival

In 2011, Jasper was designated as a Dark Sky Preserve by the Royal Astronomical Society in Canada. It’s the second largest dark sky preserve in the world, and thus, it’s no wonder why the festival is held here. The festival has run every year in October since the Dark Sky Preserve designation. And apart from the incredible speakers, there are plenty of activities to take part in.

The organizers pack a ten-day itinerary full of a variety of activities for any age. I was only in town for two days but my schedule was busy.

Here are a few things I had a chance to experience:

• I learned about our galaxies at the Jasper Park Lodge’s Planetarium and afterward peered through some mega-telescopes at our constellations and planets.

• With my love of food and molecular gastronomy I joined the “Food Lab” which was an interactive cooking demonstration. It’s no shock that this was my favourite experience at the festival as I learned from Chef Daryl Huculak (Olive Bistro) how by using obscure quirky cooking techniques he can obtain unique flavors, textures and creations. We made faux-caviar from mango, the perfect cooked egg, and used a variety of different ingredients to make unique creations. (But the best part of the Food Lab was the three-course meal I got with it, of course!)

• I rode the Jasper Sky Tram to the top of Whistlers Mountain and was treated to a three course dinner followed by the chance to step outside and take in the stars above the mountain. Unfortunately the winds were howling up top and the sky was socked in with clouds such that we couldn’t see a thing. Fortunately there was plenty of hot chocolate inside to keep us warm.

Other Dark Sky Festival Activities

Some of the activities that I didn’t get a chance to do and wish I did:

• Listening to the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra on the shores of the Jasper Park Lodge under a blanket of stars (and of course an actual blanket)

• Attend a photography workshop by the super-talented Jeff Bartlett and Jack Fusco to fine-tune my astral photography skills. In fact, the workshop is designed for anyone who wants to learn how to take photographs at night and of the stars.

• Take a guided night hike by Lake Annette and experience the rich skies and maybe even see some wildlife.

And when I wasn’t at the festival during my downtime there were plenty of things to take part in and around Jasper.

Other Things to do in Jasper

• I was able to fully relax in my cabin at the Jasper Park Lodge. It’s one of the best places to stay when you come to Jasper. The lodge is about a 5 mile drive from the townsite and is situated between Beauvert and MIldred Lake. I was able to take advantage of their spa and steam rooms, took a hike around the lake (of course bringing bear spray which was provided at the front desk), and grabbed a meal at the fabulous ORSO Trattoria restaurant.

• I took advantage of the mild weather temperatures and jumped on a motorcycle to be driven around on a tour of the National Park with Jasper Motorcycle Tours. It was exhilarating to feel the fresh mountain air hit my face (along with a little bit of snow) when we went all the way up the mountain to take in the views.

• We walked all over downtown Jasper as a part of the Downtown Foodie Tour with Jasper Food Tours. Our group was introduced to some of the best local food joints in town and we tasted some of the town’s special Canadian dishes along with selectively paired boozie treats. I indulged in:
  • The famous Elk Meatloaf at the Jasper Brew Pub,
  • Feta stuffed falafel and house made hummus from the Raven Bistro,
  • Ribs from the heart and soul of Jasper – the Dead Dog
  • And Churros dipped in a bowl of hot chocolate sauce from the Olive Bistro

All of this was packed into two days, and packed into one of the most beautiful locations in the world. Jasper never fails to impress, and although I didn’t see many stars in the sky due to the cloudy weather, I saw plenty on stage and around town. This festival will undoubtedly woo me to return, and with next year being its 10 year anniversary, I am sure that the stars will compel me again.

When most people think of travelling in Alberta, they picture the Rocky Mountains, National Parks, and emerald lakes in the summer and snowy glaciers, frozen waterfalls, and ice skating on those famous lakes in the winter. They likely imagine visiting of the main tourist destinations of Alberta: Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, Jasper National Park, the Columbia Icefield and Icefields Parkway, or even Elk Island National Park, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site or two.

Of course, all of these locations are incredible locations to visit, and worth visiting Alberta in their own right. However, these popular spots are not all that Alberta has to offer.

We want to share some of our favourite spots that are a little more off the beaten path from our experiences of travelling in Alberta. The road trips certainly take you on some of the most scenic drives, but it’s the quirky Alberta attractions along the way that really make the trip.

Travelling in Alberta – A Roadside Attraction Road Trip

On day two of our latest road trip in Alberta, we came upon a rather large goose in the small town of Hanna. Not the world’s largest goose (as we first thought), but a large enough one that it was worth a stop on our journey to see some of the more offbeat things in our home province (tick that off our road trip scavenger hunt checklist).

Turns out, we weren’t alone. Two young girls, early 20s by my estimation, appeared seemingly out of nowhere. They crept up on us as we fiddled with our cameras and discussed angles. Can you take our photo? One of them asked, handing me her phone. She adjusted her long loose braid to lay over her left shoulder; her friend put on a pair of heart-shaped iridescent sunglasses.

I took a few steps back and readied the phone. Both girls stood at the neck of the bird and splayed their arms behind them as if they were set to take flight themselves. I snapped a couple of shots, they took the phone back, thanked me, and were on their way. I didn’t see in which direction they departed; the girls had disappeared as inconspicuously as they arrived.

It was a surprise to see them, in this tiny town not known for much, apparently in a pursuit not much different than our own. And that brief interchange, unbeknownst at the time to those girls, Pete, and to myself, would change the way we felt about the expedition we had just begun.

Henceforth, we became frivolous and playful tourists.

Some may think, because we have spent the large majority of the last decade exploring cultures that were not our own, we may turn a more discerning eye to our home, stacking Alberta up against other regions of the world. And maybe we expected that of ourselves, too, feeling a bit of pressure to discover and reveal the intricacies to this place that we are so familiar with. However, here we were, on an epic trip into parts unknown in our home province, and we shed that investigative inclination in the name of plain old fun.

We drove just under 3,000 km and made dozens of photo stops, embracing our inner playful tourist the entire time. And in doing so, we discovered a ridiculously entertaining side to travelling in Alberta we had barely seen before.

World’s Largest Sausage (Mundare)

Yes. You read that right. Unbeknownst to many, Canada is home to the third-largest population of people with Ukrainian heritage (outside of Russia and Ukraine itself), which began with a wave of immigration in the late 19th century. Many came to Alberta and settled around Edmonton.

The parents of my paternal grandmother were a part of that movement. My grandma herself, although born in a small town in Alberta, didn’t speak English until she attended school because her family only spoke Ukrainian at home. The region north of Edmonton is speckled with monuments to Ukrainian heritage.

Hence the sausage (and a few more “world’s largest” landmarks to come). Erected in honour of a local food company (Stawnichy’s), the structure stands at 42ft in the middle of the little town of Mundare. Nearby is the flagship store for Stawnichy’s itself, and sampling the product after taking your sausage selfie is a must.

World’s Largest Pysanka (Vegreville)

Of all the Ukrainian sculptures in Alberta, this might be the most famous and admittedly did make me a little emotional on arrival. I grew up painting pysanka often with my grandma around Easter and continued to carry that tradition on into adulthood. The statue stands three and a half stories high in Vegreville and was even once visited by the Queen.

World’s Largest Pyrogy (Glendon)

I made a lot of pyrogy with my grandma, too (and consider myself quite the connoisseur). You guys know how I feel about these little pockets of goodness (as demonstrated by my devouring everything in sight while in Poland), and leave it to the Ukrainian-Canadian population to build the largest in the world. And they are quite proud of it in Glendon, with streets and restaurants named after it.

Who can resist such a selfie?

World’s First UFO Landing Pad (St. Paul)

Why? You might ask.

Good question. As for a definitive answer, I could not find one. The town of St. Paul wanted to celebrate Canada’s 100th birthday in 1967 by building a memorable landmark. Well, I suppose they did just that, and the government even responded by declaring St. Paul the Centennial Capital of Canada.

Starship Enterprise Replica (Vulcan)

Alberta has a fascination with the beyond, apparently! The small town of Vulcan, in southern Alberta, was originally named by a surveyor for the Canadian Pacific Railway after the Roman God of Fire, but the connection to Star Trek (as the homeworld of Mr Spock) has not gone wasted.

Star Trek themed murals and signs decorate the town, and on the side of the replica itself, writing in Klingon is found. They even host Spock Days annually, and Leonard Nimoy himself visited the town in 2010.

(We’re not Trekkies, by any means, but admit that this was one of the more entertaining stops we made!)

World’s Largest Border Markers (Lloydminster)

Of all the rivalries between neighbours in the world and all the talk of building walls, you probably wouldn’t expect the title of largest border markers in the world to be held by Lloydminster. It is Canada’s only border city.

Lloydminster straddles both provinces of Alberta and Saskatchewan, and the markers were designed to actually signify the coming together of the city. A perfect spot. Maybe it’s a necessary reminder at times – with debates about applying different taxes from each province coming to a head here, and even confusion over the time zones.

They are 30 feet tall and bright orange, running right down the street that separates the two provinces.

World’s Largest Dragonfly (Wabamun)

I may have struggled with pronouncing this town’s name, Wabamun (see video above!), but this lake-side community is a cute stop, no matter how you say it. And the 30-foot long / 30-foot wide dragonfly made of recycled goods (including wings from an old airplane) will be the first thing you see as you drive into town and towards the lake.

The Dragonfly Festival began a few years ago and runs every June, aiming to bring in tourists to the town that used to rely on a coal mine.

World’s Largest Mushrooms (Vilna)

The tricholoma uspale mushroom grows wild in the vicinity of Vilna. It is often used as a traditional ingredient in dishes of the region.

Hunting for mushrooms has been a tradition since the Ukrainian settlers came to this area just Northeast of Edmonton.

World’s Largest Wagon Wheel & Pick Axe (Fort Assiniboine)

In Fort Assiniboine, we met Ken. As we started our ridiculous selfie-taking, he drove by and watched us intently before swinging his large truck around to pull in and park beside us. We were the only tourists we could see in this tiny town, and our selfie stances must have piqued his interest.

On appearance, he was a large and gruff man but quickly displayed the hospitality of northern Albertans that I was quite familiar with, having grown up just a few hours north of there. He told stories of his quaint little town (seriously, one of the cutest we visited on the whole trip), of floods that destroyed a field behind us, and of the declining school size. We talked about the wagon and pick axe being symbolical of the pioneers who settled in the north of this province.

Ken said he suggested that the town build a whole wagon to accommodate the one wheel (which would, I expect, be quite impossible). I told him we’d be the first to photograph it if they did!

Korean Totem Poles (Airdrie)

We’re used to indulging in fusion food around these parts, given the giant mix of cultures that makes up Alberta, but this is taking it a step further by adding Korean symbols to these monumental sculptures which traditionally commemorate cultural beliefs of indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest.

Why are they in the central city of Airdrie? They were a gift from the city of Gwacheon, Korea to commemorate a decade of sister-cityship.

World’s Largest Golf Tee (Trochu)

One of our favourite completely illogical stops, even though we saw it during a downpour, was the 40 ft golf tee that sits outside the Trochu Golf and Country Club. Why is it there? Because the town of Trochu won it in a contest. That’s it. An Alberta bank decided to run a contest in the summer of 2009 and the winner would get the world’s largest golf tee.

Through video submissions and rounds of voting, Trochu overwhelmingly won and was awarded the tee, which was installed that fall.

World’s Largest Dinosaur (Drumheller)

Back to the completely logical attractions (and one of the most fun!) is this 86 ft Tyrannosaurus Rex in Drumheller, the heart of the Canadian Badlands, and what is known as the “Dinosaur Capital of the World”. The Badlands region of Alberta stretches north-south, down the centre of the province, and houses some of the best-preserved dinosaur fossils in the world.

This large T-rex, and the many other awesome dinosaur-related homages around Drumheller, make this a must-stop on any Alberta trip. (I am totally bossy about this now, even though this was the first time in my 40+ years I ever visited!)

It’s also worth a visit to the Royal Tyrrell Museum while you’re in town.

The Hoodoos (Badlands)

If you’re exploring the Dinosaur Trail, you have to continue driving through the Alberta Badlands, to check out the hoodoos. Alberta’s hoodoos are Mother Nature’s contemporary art project–these whimsical rock formations look like they’re ready for an abstract photoshoot. Carved over eons by wind and water, these tall and slender figures stand like a lineup of stone statues in a fantasy world.

Marvel at how they formed through a dance between soft and hard rock layers, and indulge in a bit of geological daydreaming. Hoodoos are the ultimate rock stars of Alberta.

World’s Largest Chuckwagon (Dewberry)

This actually was not quite as big as we thought it would be, but it is the largest in the world! And, in a pinch, if you are in desperate need of a chuckwagon near Dewberry, it is fully functional! Chuckwagon racing is popular in western Canada (especially Alberta), and the first races held as a spectator sport were at the famed Calgary Stampede nearby.

World’s Largest Bucking Saddle Bronc Horse & Rider (Ponoka)

(Now, THAT is a mouthful to say, and many takes were required to get it right for the video.)

The Bucking Saddle Bronc Horse and Rider named “Legacy”, was built in 2004 to celebrate Ponoka’s 100th anniversary and is in tribute to the strength of pioneering families. As you may have guessed, cowboy ways are big in this part of Canada!

World’s Largest Western Boot (Edmonton)

This fibreglass cowboy boot used to stand in front of the Western Boot Factory, which no longer exists. Now the Stallion Boot & Jean Company sits just behind it in the capital city of Edmonton, and has been an attraction since 1989. As we were taking our usual round of selfies, one of the owners came out to tell us that there is even a secret door and ladder to get to the top of it.

Sadly, he lost the key. (Umm, thanks for nothing.)

Giant Corn Stalks (Taber)

If you are from Alberta, one solace of the fall season (if you’re feeling the dread of an upcoming winter) is that it is also Taber corn season. Taber is renowned for its fresh and juicy corn that becomes a staple of the last barbecues of summer.

Giant-Corn-Stalk-Taber

The giant corn stalk can be found just off the highway in the centre of town. You really can’t miss it! The challenge is finding a unique way to photograph it.

Giant Potatoes (Vauxhall)

Nearby is the bitty town of Vauxhall, known as the “Potato Capital of the West”. And it may not be the world’s largest pair of taters, but if you’re going to make statues of this visually unattractive root vegetable, might as well jazz them up with lipstick.

The Invisible House (Unknown)

This was a completely unscheduled stop and on a gravel back road. We have found no conversation of it online. It is simply a ladder to nowhere, or as the sign suggests, the ladder is apparently propped up against an invisible house.

On a nearby stake is a laminated letter asking for taxes on said house. Although, given that the letterhead is marked as coming from “Red Beer County” (as opposed to Red Deer County, where it indeed resides), we have to wonder how this quirky roadside attraction came to be.

Was a real letter (asking for taxes) mistakenly sent and the invisible house created as a jokey result? Or did someone just have too many red beers one night and thought this would be a fun gag for passerbys?

Whatever its origin, it was the first invisible house we’d ever seen.

OR WAS IT?

How We Did It

We covered a LOT of ground in nine days of travelling in Alberta via an RV, and still didn’t even come close to seeing all of the incredibly offbeat attractions that the province has to offer.

When travel gives you the opportunity to taste food at its origin – fresh pasta crafted by hand in Italy, authentic pierogi in Poland, baba ganuj in Jordan – it has the unintentional affect of turning ones palate more discriminatory. I’ve turned into a food snob, I totally admit it. I often steer away from these specific cuisine-style restaurants outside of their original countries. While the food can still be quite good, it just doesn’t taste the same in comparison.Our return to Quebec was highly anticipated for several reasons, one significant one being that it is the home of Montreal smoked meat sandwiches and poutine. We savoured our first real taste two years ago on a mammoth 6 hour food tour through various Montreal neighbourhoods and we sampled some of the best. These items are popular across Canada and we’ve tasted it on several other occasions, but it of course was never quite the same. And while Quebec’s food history is an interesting and varied one – from native cuisine to French, to English, to Quebecois, and includes some quite interesting and entertaining side stories – my interest, and my salivary glands, drove me back to these two standards.

smoked meat

Quoted by Montreal writer Mordecai Richler: smoked meat is a “maddening aphrodisiac”. Similar to Pastrami but packed with more flavour and less sugar, it’s a beef brisket that has been salted and cured and covered in spices for over a week, hot smoked and finally steamed to completion. The most common preparation stacks the meat between two pieces of rye bread. The result is melt in your mouth meat full of smoked flavour.It’s unclear who brought the godly meat sandwich to Quebec, but most indications are that the creators were from Eastern Europe. But regardless, shrines should be built for whoever did. Simple, delicious, and I have yet to find it so good elsewhere on this planet.

While the majority of people immediately default to Montreal when discussing smoked meat, that best we sampled in Quebec easily rivaled it. In fact, we frequented La Fabrique du Smokemeat on more than one occasion. The clear indicator that this small shop outside of the tourist centre is the real-deal is the fact that there was a staff member outside to guide traffic during the lunch hour rush. It is that popular, and that good.

poutine

Typically served up in Quebec’s greasy-spoon-diner style places, it consists of french fries topped with squeaky cheese curds and doused in gravy. In fact according to Merriam-Webster, poutine is from a Quebecois slang word which quite appropriately means “mess”. It was thought the dish was originally topped solely with the cheese curds, and the gravy added later in an effort to keep the fries warmer longer.It sounds like a heart attack in a bowl and it pretty much is. But damn if it isn’t the perfect hangover cure or comfort food. There are restaurants dedicated solely to it and even many variations to the plain poutine. But I found simple to be the way to go. Leave all the other toppings for some other dish.

Frite A’lors is an excellent spot for a diverse menu of different classic poutines. I also liked Le Chic Shack that does a more gourmet variation: smashed potatoes instead of fries and the gravy settling on the bottom as opposed to oozing over the top, to save the crispness of the potatoes.

We woke in the morning to a layer of frost on our tent and our breath crystallizing past our lips. I had slept like a snug baby underneath the thin plastic, tucked into a thick sleeping bag, wearing fleece pants and a wool hat. Pete didn’t fare as well, having forgotten his toque, but assured me that while he may not be smart, he’s tough. We both piled on more layers of clothes and crawled into the cab of the Jeep. With heat blaring, we headed just north of Dawson City to catch the ferry across the Yukon River.

The timing of the trip in front of us is tricky, and our plan to visit in early September saw us skirting between seasons. At any time, a deep freeze could arrive and make the largely unpaved roads we were about to take utterly undrivable. It closes on the first snowfall and then doesn’t usually open until May.

We were there just in time.

Driving the Top-of-the-World Highway

Quick Facts

• Top-of-the-World Highway is 278 km (173 mi) long.
• Most northern international border crossing in North America (Poker Creek).
• The highway starts in Dawson City, Yukon and goes to the Tetlin Junction in Alaska, USA.
• The highway in Alaska is named the Taylor Highway.
• Only open in the summer months (May to September) due to the border stations being open.
• The majority of the highway is gravel with narrow and windy sections.
• The most northerly point is at 64.9 degrees north.
• There is only one stop for fuel in Chicken, Alaska

Our Journey

Connecting Dawson City to Alaska, the Top of the World Highway is largely unpaved runs for 281 km (175 miles) and winds along the crest of a mountain range. As we departed Dawson City via the ferry, we were quickly impressed by the views that greeted us on the other side of the river and up the first mountain. The fall colours had reached their peak – maybe just slightly past – and our perspective was expansive across many valleys. Parking spots and scenic viewpoints dotted the route and we made our own space along the way, too. Few vehicles passed, and the wide road gave us ample opportunity to stop and capture the changing scene in front of us.

It is often referred to as a scenic Alaskan drive, but the vast majority of it resides in Yukon. After driving just over 100 km, which took us a couple of hours (there were MANY photo stops), we arrived at the Alaska border and earned our way through after a few short questions. And for our shiny new Canadian passports, we received a moose stamp to mark our passage through Poker Creek, the northern-most border crossing in North America.

For the first few kilometres (our inaugural visits to Alaska), we were treated with a smooth highway, causing us to declare the USA’s superiority in northern tourist relations. Eh, it was short-lived, and we were cursing it just a few minutes later when the windy road became rougher than what we had encountered in Yukon. Smaller shoulders also left us with less room for photo stops, and ominous clouds had begun to appear anyway, so we hurried through this portion until we arrived at the famed town of Chicken.

Making a stop in Chicken, Alaska

Officially, the “Top of the World Highway” ends before Chicken, but barring an immediate U-turn back to Dawson City, the only way to get back into Yukon is to continue on for almost another 300 kilometres until the Alcan Border.

So we soldiered on. And, we had to check out Chicken (for obvious reasons).

Chicken claims to be the last surviving Gold Rush town, and its name was given because early settlers couldn’t agree on how to spell Ptarmigan. The population, which was said to peak at about 400 residents, is now in the single digits during winter. In summer, it surges a wee bit to support the few businesses in town, including a few stores, a miniature golf course, some historic sites, a famous saloon, and some reportedly excellent pie.

We tested just to make sure. The pie was indeed delicious, and we declare Chicken worth a quick stop, also for the prime photo opportunities.

(As it goes, we had never been to Alaska before this trip, and now we can say: yes, we have. But we only stopped in Chicken.)

Driving from Alaska to The Yukon

Now, making our way back from Alaska to The Yukon, the roads eventually improved as we continued on. Along the long stretches of smooth highway, we encountered several scenic spots worthy of stopping. At Tetlin Junction, we debated a side trip to Tok, the largest town along the way, in order to fill our tank. Instead, we settled against it, headed east back towards Canada, and almost paid dearly for that decision. We arrived at the Alcan Border crossing and were welcomed home into Canada, swerving our truck from side to side to ensure every last drop of fuel was being used. As we crawled into the first gas station, we saw, after 433km of driving, we were substantially relieved that we had made it.

How to Drive the Top-of-the-World Highway

Prior to starting our journey, we spent a few nights in Dawson City. We stayed at the Midnight Sun, A Coast Hotel before beginning our adventure, but there are hotel options in Dawson City to consider.

On the morning before we ventured out we made sure we had a full tank of gas (and maybe some extra in a jerry can), even though gas was available in Chicken and Tok (off the main route). We made sure to bring paper maps on hand considering phone connections are scant. And we stocked up on water, snacks, and memory cards with lots of space on them.

As for the drive, we studied this mile-to-mile description before we left.

We completed the trip in a Jeep Wrangler from Overland Yukon. (And that’s what we woke up in while in Dawson City! It has an awesome tent on top of the roof.) We would not recommend doing this drive in a non-4X4 vehicle – if weather affects the roads at all along the route, it could get messy. Also, check into the tourism office in Dawson City for reports on road conditions before setting off.

When we first started planning our move to Nova Scotia, Truro was in our sights as (at least) a first stop. A good central place to base ourselves for house-hunting, we also soon discovered that Truro is a fantastic hub to explore some hot spots in the province as tourists.

Many great things exist just within an hour’s drive! And so that was our challenge soon after our arrival, to venture out and see what new things we could discover, and to craft whole day trips out of it for others to follow.

Because of the timing of our visit in late fall of 2022, there were several spots on our “to-do” list that were closed and others that were not open because of damage from Hurricane Fiona. We’ve noted these as items we’ll visit on our next adventure! You can check back on this post for updates to those.

Day Trips from Truro

#1 – Following Fundy to Maitland & Noel Shore

Because we were landbound while living in Alberta for the past five years, our first instinct was to head straight to the coast. With the Bay of Fundy being accessible within minutes of driving west from Truro, we bee-lined for Maitland and also drove further west along the Noel Shore, poking inland when we noted other sights worth seeing.

The best part of this trip is the drive itself! It’s a bit of a twisty road from Truro to Maitland and smooths out a little beyond, but the coastal views are often really beautiful. And in the fall, the golden yellow, orange and bright red leaves are just stunning. Plan for time to stop, admire and snap photos along the way.

Highlights from this day trip:

Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre

Open from mid-May to mid-October, the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre on the Shubenacadie River, outside of Maitland, is a prime spot to marvel at the magnificent tidal bore. During the summer months, there are also interpretive walks to learn all about why this phenomenon occurs. From the viewing platform, visitors can watch the world’s highest tides work their magic and dramatically change of direction of the river where the water rises over 3 metres in 30 minutes.

Frieze & Roy General Store

This is the oldest general store in Canada and has changed a lot since we visited several years ago. Previously, it was one large room where you could indulge in a meal while eyeing up basic housewares you might need! Now, a cute little dining room has been separated; the offers are simple but they have deliciously fresh food. (And yes, housewares and other knick knacks are still available in another room.)

Gravity Luxury Domes

Make it more than just a day trip by booking a night at the Gravity Luxury Domes. This is glamping at its best, and not only is it a supremely comfortable stay (complete with an outdoor hot tub, kitchenette, and more), but you will be front and centre of all the changes that come with the dramatic tide swings of the Bay of Fundy that rush up the Shubenacadie River, right outside your door.

Tidal Bore Rafting

We rafted the tidal bore several years ago and probably still have sand in our suits to prove it! It’s one thing to watch the tide rush up the river bed, but to ride it is epic. Bouncing on the waves is an absolute blast, and it’s a highly recommended way to experience this unique phenomenon.

Burntcoat Head Park

Our previous trip, several years ago, was hampered by heavy rain. We guarantee that we’ll be back (more than once, now that we live so close!) as this is a rare slice of natural beauty that we’ll be happy to experience in any and all weather.

Walton Lighthouse

It’s the only remaining lighthouse in Hants County and stands tall above the Minas Basin. Perched on the dramatic rocky cliffs, it’s a gorgeous spot to stop along the way to admire the Bay of Fundy.

The Flying Apron Inn & Cookery

It’s one thing to dine and stay at the Flying Apron, but what caught our attention is the Cookery School. Pete’s eager to take one or more of their culinary classes. Chef Chris Velden, a Certified European Master Chef and Culinary instructor, has a passion for passing off food knowledge to those eager to learn. There are a number of options ranging from demonstrations, hands-on, and specialty classes where they partner with local producers and even bring in special guests. (Or perhaps Pete and I will go with something more intimate and book their private exclusive Culinary Package for 2 people. We can’t wait!)

#2 – The Fruit Loop

Now, the “Fruit Loop” isn’t an official route name in Nova Scotia, and this suggested day trip includes much more than just fruit, but really, how could we ignore the opportunity to name it that?

The large blueberry found in Oxford (the “Blueberry Capital of Nova Scotia”) and the big strawberry between Great Village and Glenholme are both “must-selfie” spots on this road trip, but there are also plenty of other things to do on this drive.

Highlights from this Day Trip:

Masstown Market

Having the Masstown Market nearby is one of the best things about living near Truro. Quality local food (the produce and meats are wonderful) and friendly service make this spot our go-to for grabbing groceries. We hit up the market all the time as residents, but highly recommend it as a tourist spot too.

There’s a fantastic gift shop for souvenirs and the Masstown Market Bakery has fresh daily-made bread and treats (perfect for a tourist meal-to-go). The nearby lighthouse is not only a prime spot to buy fresh seafood, but you can climb to the top for a view of the Bay of Fundy on a clear day. If you’re hungry, grab a fish-and-chips and enjoy it on their summer patio!

Antique Shops (Great Village)

The tiny hamlet of Great Village has a lot to offer relic hunters. Plan a solid couple of hours to hunt through the small stretch of stops that are part flea market, but mostly an antique-lovers dream. Start at the 6,000 sqft “Great Village Antiques Exchange” and then pop into the converted United Church to view a small sample (and take a coffee or snack break at Angel’s Diner) before continuing on.

GJDE Enterprises Ltd (Oxford)

After your selfie with the giant blueberry, don’t miss this novelty shop known locally as the “Alphabet Store”. It is one of those fantastic places where you could spend hours combing through shelves that are overstuffed with everything from vintage candy to clothing to kitchen appliances.

Fencebusters Café (Springhill)

One of the farthest points on this road trip is the small town of Springhill with a couple of big attractions (see below). It’s also an ideal place to stop for your midday meal, and Fencebusters Café is not only known for its fantastic service but also for its homemade fare that is as tasty as it is nourishing. The café is named after the Springhill Fencebusters baseball team, which was a very successful squad from 1920-1951, and pays tribute by lining the walls with baseball memorabilia of the team and other notables.

Anne Murray Centre (Springhill)

Probably one of the most famous Canadian music artists is Anne Murray, a proud Nova Scotian. The Anne Murray Centre, located in Springhill, is an award-winning and world-class museum showcasing her life and career. Built in 1969, it is the longest-operating museum dedicated solely to a Canadian music artist.

Beyond the interactive exhibits, memorabilia, video theatre, and gift shop, we’re most excited about recording a duet in the mini recording studio inside when we finally get to visit (it’s closed in the off-season). We’ll see how that goes before we decide to share it with you. 😉

Springhill Miner’s Museum (Springhill)

The Springhill Miner’s Museum is famous in song and legend and pays homage to the town’s mining history. Only open in the summer, there are exhibits and artifacts that give insight into the mine and explain some of the major events that took place over the course of its years. In addition to the museum, there’s a gift shop and a picnic area for visitors to enjoy.

Tour the Diefenbunker (Debert)

Did you know that in the 1960s Canada built 6 facilities for Government officials to hide in, in case there was a nuclear war? We sure didn’t. One of the facilities is in the tiny town of Debert, aptly named the Debert Diefenbunker, and is open for visitors to not only tour but to have some fun, too. You can play laser tag, and even try to escape from the “Escape the Bunker” escape room.

#3 – Stewie, Shubie, & Brookie

Officially known as Stewiacke, Shubenacadie, and Brookfield, these three small towns south of Truro offer plenty of fun stops to keep visitors busy for a day.

Highlights from this day trip:

Crafty Owl Artisan’s Market (Shubie)

The Crafty Owl Artisan’s Market in Shubenacadie is a cute little gift shop showcasing and selling locally handmade products from Nova Scotian artists. There is a wide range of items and gifts ranging from soaps, candles, notebooks, and much more.

Stewiacke River Park (Stewie)

The Stewiacke River Park is a nice little relaxing spot to take in some serenity, enjoy a picnic or take a walk in the woods. There are 2 km of trails with benches along the way. There is also a play area for kids, and if you just want to relax, grab one of the hammocks to wile away an afternoon. Be sure to keep your eyes out for wildlife, bald eagles are common in the area. While we expect this park to be most loved in the warmer months, it’s also an ideal spot to go snowshoeing in winter.

Brookfield Bakery (Brookie)

The Brookfield Bakery is a 3rd generation family-run bakery, where everything is handmade and from scratch. The moment you walk in you can smell the delicious breads and tasty treats that are baked daily. Our go-to’s have been the light and fluffy English muffins for our morning breakfast sandwiches. There’s also a café on the opposite side of the bakery serving up hearty breakfasts and lunches.

Big River Café (Stewie)

Right in the heart of Stewiacke is the Big River Café. Kamie and Renae, two enthusiastic locals, have a simple intention: to create special, meaningful moments for everyone who walks up to their window. Whether enjoying quality coffees and teas or locally sourced lunch options, this is a popular spot for locals and tourists for a quick drink or bite. In the summer, their patrons can relax and enjoy their coffee and meal on their patio.

Coldstream Clear Distillery (Stewie)

This is a brand known to most Nova Scotians, as the sales of some Coldstream products regularly outsell household names like Mike’s Hard Lemonade. But a stop at their storefront in Stewiacke will introduce visitors to the vast array of their offerings. Everything is free for sampling, but to do so is a dangerous adventure – not just because of the alcohol content – but for the extent of your purchases afterwards! We came away with their hard iced teas, some rum coffee cream, and more.

Other Area Adventures:

Mastodon Ridge (Stewie)

In 1991, the bones of a Mastodon (similar to a woolly mammoth) were found in the nearby town of Milford, and now you can learn all about it at Mastodon Ridge! A 14-foot tall, 22-foot-long replica named Marvin stands tall in their park. For the kiddos (and the adult-kiddos), you can also enjoy a round of mini-golf, play in a fun fort, and get a photo at the exact centre point between the equator and the North Pole (Stewiacke was acknowledged as such way back in 1937).

Shubenacadie Wildlife Park

40 hectares of land is the home to a vast number of animals in the Shubenacadie Wildlife Park, with most of their residents coming from other zoos (where they were born in captivity), and others who are orphaned or injured and arrive in need of care.

There are over 50 different types of mammals and birds, including a bobcat, cougar, lynx, black bear, elk, wolf, and many more. But the most famous animal in the park is Shubenacadie Sam – the groundhog who, every year on February 2, will predict whether or not there will 6 more weeks of winter.

Regained Relics and Antiques (Shubie)

Old, vintage and upcycled, that’s the passion at Regained Relics and Antiques in Shubenacadie. There are vintage items, furniture and antiques that can fill a home.