Author: Kristen Haynes

  • Why Aren’t You in Izmir?

    Why Aren’t You in Izmir?

    We had been there so many times before.

    It was our big transit point – we knew the airport well and had visited many platforms at the central bus station while jetting off to other parts of the country.

    And the best thing we could say about Izmir is that the döner vendor near bus lane number 48 on the second floor of the bus station served the best tavuk durum we had ever had. That’s it.

    Why we never made it a point to explore Turkey’s third largest city is beyond me. Finally, in the last week of our almost six months total in which we lived just a few hours away, we made it happen.

    With our time constrained we only allowed for one night. And within one hour of being there, we were kicking ourselves for our total ignorance up to that point.

    izmir is fascinating.

    It carries an astounding cultural, historical and spiritual significance. It is the birthplace of Homer, and is the center to three of the seven major Churches of Revelation. Like much of the western reach of the country, it was Ottoman, then Greek, then Turkish, but absorbed huge impacts of these changes, including a giant fire that destroyed much of the city in 1922.

    The boardwalk along it’s Aegean coastline stretches for miles. Locals spread out on blankets in the parks along it, young and old men alike fish from the edge. Restaurants, cafes and pubs unobtrusively line the streets behind.

    Why we never made it a point to explore Turkey’s third largest city is beyond me.

    During our twenty-four hours there, we saw nothing in particular but enjoyed everything. We started our day by wandering the boardwalk. We stopped for a çay, walked a bit, declared it noon somewhere, stopped for a beer. Walked a little further and stopped for lunch. Dawdled some more and then needed ice cream. Found Konak Square and spent an hour lounging in the shade, people and pigeon watching to our heart’s content.

    The city inspired a lazy exploration. It has such a large population, but you would never know it. The atmosphere is as laid-back as many of the smaller towns we’ve been to.

    And the best part? Very few other tourists.

    Seriously, where are they all?

    Far from Istanbul’s pushy salesmen, when in Izmir’s version of the Grand Bazaar, we wandered slowly and completely unhassled. Some vendors appeared to want to talk to us, but didn’t have the English words to beckon us in.

    And the two we met that did speak English quite well used it only as a means to understand where we wanted to go, and then led us directly to our destination. One of which insisted that should we ever need help in the area, just ask for Flash Gordon and we would be led directly to him.

    The charming hospitality that has served us well all over the country is also alive and well in Izmir. And we’re convinced that it is easily Turkey’s most overlooked city.

  • Deep Fried Cheese Curds

    Deep Fried Cheese Curds

    C’mon world.

    You don’t make it easy on full-time wanderers who are eager to taste your wares yet simultaneously trying to control their waistlines. You smothered us with pasta in Italy, tempted us with chocolate baklava in Turkey, and talked us into four dumplings for a dollar in New York.

    Impassioned travelers everywhere will shout that in order to understand the culture, you must taste and understand the food. We can’t not agree.

    And when we announced we were coming to Wisconsin, a chorus erupted from readers and friends alike that we *must* try deep fried cheese curds – that it was *thee* local staple that needed to be consumed in order to get a real taste of Wisconsin.

    It’s cheese by-product (curds). Smothered in batter. Deep fried in oil.

    Despite the internal protest, as genuine pursuers of world cuisine, try we must.

    We pulled on our stretchy pants, and got to the fryin’.

    We’re no strangers to cheese curds, used to them being tossed on crispy french fries and smothered with beefy gravy. They’re known as “squeaky cheese”, and are a bit rubbery in texture.

    The batter was like any used for such battered things: onion rings, etc. Getting the curds completely covered and then into the hot oil was a bit of a messy undertaking, but I don’t suppose that the appearance of this dish is what is important.

    The finished product was about as I expected.

    They were tasty, no doubt, albeit the cheese was a little more bitter than I thought it would be, and we could have really used some marinara sauce for dipping. While anything involving the words “cheese” and “fried” I could typically never imagine turning down, it had been a long time since I had eaten anything like this. After sampling a couple, I felt quite sick.

    (I turned my attention instead to the carefully prepared side dish, a healthy quinoa salad. Can’t imagine that these two items exist together on any menu throughout Wisconsin, but it did provide the balance I needed after the greasy cheesiness.)

    We’re not sure how much more of this we can take. If anyone knows of a country that lists celery or fruit salad as their celebrated local cuisine, please let us know. That one will be swiftly bumped to the top of our *must* see/taste list.

  • A Perfect Romantic Retreat. Almost.

    A Perfect Romantic Retreat. Almost.

    At first glance, it appeared that we were only trading one refuge in the wilderness for another. We left our house-sit, drove an hour to Canoe Bay, and found ourselves in another cozy log cabin, surrounded by more unspoiled views of a lake, deep in another secluded piece of forest.

    It would undoubtedly be a divine sanctuary for city-trudging warriors. An escape from gridlock onto carefully carved natural trails, a shocking slap of silence compared to the churning of common urban noise.

    We thought, given our thorough contentment with our current (and similar) living arrangement, that we may not be easily seduced by the resort, despite it’s rating as one of the top romantic hotels in the world. However, once we settled in, and gave ourselves over to the indulgent service, the spectacular cuisine, and yes, the romance, our two nights at Canoe Bay became a captivating affair to remember.

    Our room with a gorgeous view. Just behind the photo was a luxurious king size bed, to the right, a self-adjusting fireplace, and to the left, a whirlpool tub built for two.

    Spoiled much? To start off our day, a healthy and hot breakfast was delivered right to our door.

    By candlelight we enjoyed dinner in an intimate lounge, and savoured every single bite placed before us – as if not finishing it in it’s entirety would be to smite the kitchen, for all the obvious care they put into each and every dish.

    The first night: organic greens with pears and fresh goat cheese; beef tenderloin with caramelized pearl onions and carrot puree; raspberry tart for dessert.

    The second dessert stole the show though, brownies slash fudge slash all the chocolate-y goodness we could handle.

    The second night: orange, arugula, radish and honey with cracked pepper; butternut squash soup with sunflower seeds, chives and sunflower oil; pan-seared Alaskan halibut with purple fingerling potatoes, mushrooms, and an orange rosemary sauce; blackberry tartlets for dessert.

    This was exactly our kind of place. It was at once pure luxury and sinful decadence, but also in the most casual of settings. Before the splendor to be devoured at the dinner table each night, we spent the days exploring all inches of the property.

    So many locals have commented to us that we are in Wisconsin at the exact wrong time of year – too late for the brilliant colors of fall, too early for the pristine white blanket of winter. There is something to be said for wandering in the brilliance of browns though, hearing that satisfying crunch of leaves underfoot while cool air faintly swirled around us.

    Maybe we had TOO much fun.

    And, you know if there is a lake, we have to get on it.

    Scattered throughout the property are views built for two.

    We ducked into the library to snuggle up with hot chocolate and a good book.

    The early morning fog on our last day epitomized our mood at having to leave.

    We fell for it. Every nuance designed to emphasize romance hit it’s cue with us, almost completely.

    I say ‘almost’ because there was one slight barricade to total happiness, one grievance that caused a blemish in our perfect rendezvous.

    As snap-happy as we usually are to record all such distinguished moments in our travels, on this trip we were limited. Being that this excursion was gifted to us by Samsung Mobile, we left our DSLR behind and relied solely on our new Galaxy SIII, which we love, but…

    We had only one camera.

    There are two of us.

  • Florence or Venice? Which Spot in Italy to Travel To

    Florence or Venice? Which Spot in Italy to Travel To

    A common question we often get asked about our travels in Italy is, “Which should I visit, Florence or Venice?”

    Our answer is usually, “Why not BOTH?”!

    They are equally incredible Italian cities and are genuinely unique; honestly, they aren’t even fair to compare. But if you’re on a limited travel schedule, we will try to make your decision a bit easier by offering our thoughts below.

    Choosing between Florence and Venice is like picking between two flavours of gelato—both are delicious, but each offers a unique experience.

    If you’re a romantic at heart, Venice’s winding canals and gondola rides can whisk you away to a dreamy, floating world. Picture yourself gliding under the Rialto Bridge, serenaded by a gondolier, as you soak in the city’s ethereal charm.

    On the other hand, Florence is a feast for the senses with its Renaissance art galleries, Tuscan landscapes, cultural attractions, and rich history. Wander across the Ponte Vecchio, indulge in a scoop of gelato as you admire the Duomo, or lose yourself in the masterpieces of the Uffizi Gallery. Florence is perfect for those who crave history, art, and a warm Tuscan sun.

    Both have excellent food and are easily accessible from Rome by train (yay)! But both also have scores of tourists to contend with (ugh). It’s important to weigh the good with the bad when making your decision. We break it down below.

    Florence, Italy: A Renaissance Gem

    Florence, nestled in the picturesque hills of Tuscany, is a living museum where every corner tells a story. The city’s cobblestone streets invite you to wander through time, past stunning Renaissance architecture and grand piazzas.

    The iconic Duomo punctuates Florence’s skyline; its red-tiled dome stands proudly as a symbol of the city’s artistic legacy. Home to masterpieces by Michelangelo, Botticelli, and da Vinci, Florence’s museums and galleries are treasure troves of art and culture.

    Practical Information

    Best Time to Visit:

    • Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October): These seasons offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices than summer, perhaps making it the best time to visit Florence.
    • Summer (June-August): While it’s the busiest time, Florence is still beautiful in the summer. Be prepared for crowds and higher prices.
    • Winter (December-February): The city is less crowded in winter, and you might even catch a glimpse of snowfall. However, some attractions and restaurants may have limited hours.

    Transportation:

    Florence is a pedestrian’s dream, with its charming cobblestone streets making walking the best way to explore the historic centre.

    For longer distances, the city’s bus system offers an efficient and affordable alternative, with routes covering most major attractions and neighbourhoods. Buses are frequent and reasonably priced, making them a convenient choice for travellers exploring more of Florence without breaking the bank.

    Taxis are also available throughout the city, but they can be pricey, so they’re best reserved for late-night returns or only when you’re in a hurry.

    Tips:

    • Wear comfortable shoes: You’ll be doing a lot of walking, so make sure you have comfortable footwear.
    • Use public transportation: Florence has almost 100 bus lines, 3 active tram lines, and a special night service, making it very well connected.
    • Purchase a Firenze Card: The Firenze Card is your cultural fast pass to Florence’s best attractions. This card gives you priority access to over 70 museums, galleries, and historical sites in the city, such as the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia. The card is valid for 72 hours, making it ideal for short visits. It also offers discounts on public transportation.
    • Avoid driving: The city’s ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone) is confusing and restricted, so driving is best left to locals.
    • Purchase tickets online: For popular attractions like the Uffizi and Duomo, buy tickets in advance to avoid long lines (see our recommendations below).

    Best Things to Do and See in Florence

    Uffizi Gallery

    A masterpiece of Italian Renaissance art, the Uffizi houses an unparalleled collection of paintings by Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Leonardo da Vinci.

    • Best Time to Visit: Early mornings or late afternoons to avoid crowds, particularly on weekdays.
    • Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 8:15 am–6:30 pm (9:30 pm on Tuesdays). Closed on Mondays.
    • Tips: Book tickets in advance to skip long lines. Take breaks; the gallery is extensive, and there’s a lot to see.
    • Transportation: Located centrally, the gallery is easily accessible on foot or by bus (ATAF buses #23, #C2).
    • Tours: Tired of waiting in line? Expert guides will whisk you past the crowds and straight into the Uffizi Gallery. See Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus,’ Caravaggio’s ‘Medusa,’ and more hidden gems.

    Duomo

    The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its iconic Brunelleschi dome, is a symbol of the city’s architectural grandeur. It’s one of the stand-out buildings in the city and can be seen from almost every viewpoint. You can marvel at the exterior or book tickets and go inside.

    • Best Time to Visit: Early mornings or late afternoons are best for avoiding long lines and large crowds. Weekdays are generally less crowded than weekends.
    • Hours: The Cathedral is open from 10:15 am to 3:45 pm but closed on Sundays; Dome and Bell Tower from 8:15 am to 6:45 pm. Hours may vary, so check ahead, especially on holidays.
    • Tips: Book tickets in advance for the Dome and Tower; wear appropriate clothing (shoulders and knees covered) for religious sites; and consider the Brunelleschi Pass for access to all areas.
    • Transportation: Easily accessible by walking if you’re in the historic center; buses, taxis, and trams also serve the Piazza del Duomo area.
    • Tours: We highly recommend avoiding the crowds and skipping the lines. With this Duomo and Brunelleschi tour, you’ll feel like a celebrity, leaving all those people lining up behind.

    Ponte Vecchio

    Ponte Vecchio is probably the most iconic medieval bridge and landmark in Florence. It’s lined with jewelry shops and offers stunning views of the Arno River and the surrounding city.

    • Best Time to Visit: Visit early in the morning or late afternoon for fewer crowds and stunning sunset views, especially in spring and fall.
    • Hours: Considering the bridge is a public walkway, it is open 24/7. The shops on the bridge typically are open from around 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM, depending on the season.
    • Transportation: The Ponte Vecchio is centrally located and easily accessible by walking from most parts of Florence; buses and taxis are also available nearby.
    • Tours: Many walking tours of Florence include the Ponte Vecchio, often combined with nearby landmarks like the Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti.

    Palazzo Pitti

    This grand palace, once the home of the Medici family, now houses a variety of museums, including the Palatine Gallery and the Boboli Gardens.

    • Best Time to Visit: Visit during the morning in spring or fall to avoid large crowds and enjoy the Boboli Gardens in comfortable weather.
    • Hours: The palace is typically open from 8:15 am to 6:30 pm but closed on Mondays; hours may vary for different museums within the complex.
    • Tips: Buy tickets in advance, especially for the Boboli Gardens, and plan to spend several hours exploring the palace’s multiple museums and gardens.
    • Transportation: Easily accessible by walking from central Florence; buses and taxis also serve the area near the palace.
    • Tours: Guided tours cover the palace’s art collections and history, often including the Boboli Gardens, or you can opt for audio tours to explore at your own pace.

    Piazzale Michelangelo

    For an incredible view of Florence, including the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio, this is where you want to be, especially at sunset. It’s very popular amongst visitors and locals, so be prepared for some crowds. The square is dominated by a bronze replica of Michelangelo’s David, standing as a tribute to the artist.

    • Best Time to Visit: Visit at sunrise or sunset for breathtaking panoramic views of Florence, with spring and fall offering the best weather.
    • Hours: The Piazzale is open 24/7 as a public space, making it accessible at any time of day.
    • Tips: Bring a camera for stunning photos, and consider packing a snack or drink to enjoy while taking in the view.
    • Transportation: Reach the Piazzale by walking, taking bus routes 12 or 13, or using a taxi; it’s about a 20-minute uphill walk from the city center.
    • Tours: Many walking and bike tours include Piazzale Michelangelo, with some offering sunset tours for the best views of Florence.

    Unique Experiences

    Market Shopping

    Stroll through Florence’s lively markets, like the bustling Mercato Centrale, where every aisle offers a feast for the senses. Find fresh produce and sample lots of local delicacies. And it’s not just about the food—these markets are also treasure troves for unique souvenirs. Whether you’re hunting for artisanal olive oil, handmade pasta, or quirky keepsakes, the vibrant atmosphere ensures that every visit is a flavorful adventure.

    Day Trips to the Tuscany Countryside

    Tuscany serves up art, history, rolling hills, and mouthwatering cuisine in one perfect bite. Got just one day? No problem! Take a day trip from Florence and dive into the best of the region with a local guide. You’ll explore Siena’s medieval charm, enjoy (optional) wine tasting in Chianti, and stroll through the picturesque streets of San Gimignano. A trip to Pisa to gawk at the famous Leaning Tower is possible (although we honestly wouldn’t recommend it – the tower is genuinely not that exciting).

    Take a Cooking Class

    Unlock the mysteries of Tuscan cuisine by rolling up your sleeves and diving into a hands-on pasta and cooking class. Picture yourself in a cozy kitchen, surrounded by fresh local ingredients, as you learn to whip up dishes that would make any Italian nonna proud. From handmade pasta to rich, flavorful sauces, you’ll not only master the recipes but also pick up tips and tricks passed down through generations. And the best part? You get to savour the fruits of your labour, enjoying a delicious meal you created from scratch.

    Art Workshop

    Whether you’re an experienced artist or a beginner, a private workshop experience is designed to help you connect with Florence’s rich cradle of Renaissance art traditions. Rediscover your creative spark using Renaissance techniques and bring home not just a souvenir but an unforgettable memory.

    Florence Bike Tour

    Florence is a treasure trove of jaw-dropping architecture, but let’s face it—strolling the cobblestone streets can leave you hobbling. Why not swap sore feet for two wheels? On a bike tour, you’ll glide through the city’s Renaissance core, hitting all the significant sights like the Duomo, Piazza Signoria, and Santa Croce without a single wrong turn. Best part? The tour wraps up with a well-deserved gelato break. No need for maps—just fun, history, and sweet rewards.

    Florence From the Rooftops

    Seeing Florence from the Rooftops offers the perfect blend of food, drinks, and sightseeing in Florence. Guests will visit historic bars with stunning views, learning about the city’s culture and history while sampling Italian “aperitivo,” wines, or a spritz (with non-alcoholic options for younger participants). For a morning option, indulge in an authentic Italian breakfast of cappuccino and cornetto. The experience wraps up with a delightful gelato.

    What and Where to Eat in Florence

    Florence is renowned for its delicious Italian cuisine and traditional Tuscan dishes. Here are a few must-try dishes:

    • Bistecca Fiorentina: A juicy, grilled T-bone steak, typically served with a side of potatoes.
    • Pappa al Pomodoro: A hearty Tuscan soup made with bread, tomatoes, and basil.
    • Gelato: Indulge in the creamy, flavorful gelato found on every corner of the city.
    • Chianti wine: Sample the famous Chianti wine produced in the surrounding Tuscan countryside.
    • Porchetta – A delectable Italian dish that’s sure to tantalize your taste buds. It’s essentially a boneless pork roast that’s been stuffed with aromatic herbs and spices, such as rosemary, garlic, and fennel. The pork is then slow-roasted until the skin is crispy and the meat is incredibly tender and juicy.
    • Osteria Santo Spirito: This charming trattoria is located in the Oltrarno district and is known for its authentic Tuscan dishes. Their pasta dishes, especially the Pappardelle al Cinghiale (wild boar pasta), are particularly popular.
    • Trattoria Mario: A family-run establishment since 1898, Trattoria Mario is a must-visit for traditional Florentine cuisine. Their Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine steak) is a local favorite, and their friendly atmosphere makes it a memorable dining experience.
    • All’Antico Vinaio: This popular sandwich shop offers delicious and affordable paninis stuffed with high-quality meats, cheeses, and vegetables. Their sandwiches are so popular that there’s often a line out the door! We’ve been there several times and salivate every time we even think about it.
    • Le Volpi e le Uve: This stylish restaurant is located in the historic center of Florence and offers a modern take on Tuscan cuisine. Their innovative dishes and elegant ambiance make it a popular choice for a special occasion.
    • Gelateria Santa Cristina: For a sweet treat, head to Gelateria Santa Cristina, a renowned gelato shop known for its creamy and flavorful ice cream. With a wide variety of flavours, there’s something for everyone to enjoy.

    Where to Stay in Florence

    Florence offers a variety of accommodation options to suit every budget. Consider staying in the historic center for easy access to the city’s attractions. Some popular neighbourhoods include Santa Croce, San Niccolò, and Oltrarno.

    Rocco Forte Hotel Savoy

    If you want to splurge on a stay in Florence, this is where you want to stay. Rocco Forte Hotel Savoy is a historic luxury hotel in the heart of Florence, offering elegant accommodations and impeccable service. The hotel’s modern Art Nouveau decor, Michelin-starred restaurant, and a rooftop terrace with panoramic city views make it a top choice for discerning travellers.

    Brunelleschi Hotel

    Situated in a 15th-century tower in the heart of the city, Brunelleschi Boutique hotel boasts stunning views of the Duomo and the entire city. The hotel’s elegant rooms, rooftop terrace, and excellent service make it a popular choice for both couples and families.

    Hotel Lungarno

    Overlooking the Arno River, Hotel Lungarno is a luxury hotel offering stylish accommodations and panoramic city views. Guests are pampered here with the hotel’s spa, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a convenient location. This hotel easily is a top choice for those seeking a luxurious stay in Florence.

    J.K. Place

    The Place Firenze is a charming boutique hotel located in a historic building in the Oltrarno district. The hotel’s cozy rooms, friendly staff, and affordable rates make it a great option for those who travel on a budget and who want to experience the authentic side of Florence. But good luck getting a room here. Reservations book up fast and well in advance. If you do manage to get a room, enjoy it!

    Venice, Italy: A Floating City of Romance

    Venice, the city of canals, offers an open invitation to get delightfully lost. Imagine wandering through its labyrinth of narrow alleys and crossing charming stone bridges, with every turn offering a glimpse of something enchanting. Honestly, getting lost is a big part of Venice’s appeal. (So much so that we even considered what it might be like to live in Venice.)

    Practical Information

    Best Time to Visit:

    • Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October): These seasons offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices than summer, perhaps making it the best time to visit Venice.
    • Summer (June-August): While it’s the busiest time, Venice is still magical in the summer. Be prepared for crowds and higher prices.
    • Winter (December-February): The city is less crowded in winter, and you might even catch a glimpse of snowfall. However, some attractions and restaurants may have limited hours.

    Transportation:

    • Water Bus (Vaporetto): The Vaporetto is Venice’s answer to a city bus, but with a twist—you’re cruising the iconic canals instead of fighting traffic. Getting around the city by boat is the most convenient way to navigate Venice’s watery streets. Grab yourself a Vaporetto pass, and you can hop on and off these floating ferries as often as you like. Whether you’re headed to the Rialto Bridge or just looking for the next gelato stop, a Vaporetto pass ensures you’ll travel like a local–without sinking your wallet.
    • Gondola: Sure, a gondola ride in Venice might cost you more than a slice of pizza, but let’s be honest—can you really say you’ve experienced Venice without lounging in a gondola while a striped-shirt gondolier serenades you under the moonlight? It’s like eating spaghetti without the meatballs! Yes, it’s a bit of a splurge, but it’s also the most iconic way to see Venice’s magical canals. Think of it as an investment in a memory that’s worth more than a thousand Instagram likes.
    • Walking: Venice practically begs to be explored on foot, with its labyrinth of narrow streets, secret squares, and charming bridges. You’ll stumble upon hidden gems like quaint cafes, quirky shops, and tiny canals that the tourists haven’t discovered yet. Each twist and turn reveals another postcard-worthy view, and who knows? You might even accidentally wander into the perfect little trattoria for a spontaneous lunch. So, lace up your comfiest shoes and let Venice’s maze lead you to unexpected adventures.

    Tips:

    • Wear comfortable shoes: You’ll be doing a lot of walking, so make sure you have comfortable footwear.
    • Be patient: Venice can get crowded, especially during peak season.
    • Tourist Day Tax – Starting in 2025, tourists who arrive in Venice only for the day will be required to pay a daily tourist tax. The ticket must be paid for in advance, and a QR code will be supplied. There will be no turnstiles to present the ticket, but there will be random checks to ensure people have them. The tax is expected to be between 3 and 10 Euros. If you spend one or more nights in Venice, the tax is included in your accommodation stay.

    Best Things to See and Do in Venice

    Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

    Welcome to Piazza San Marco, the beating heart of Venice, where history, art, and a few hundred pigeons collide. This iconic square is home to the magnificent St. Mark’s Basilica, where every inch seems to be covered in glittering mosaics. Don’t forget to look up at the Campanile bell tower—climb it for panoramic views of the city.

    • Best Time to Visit: Early morning to beat the crowds or late at night when the square is beautifully lit and less crowded.
    • Hours: Open 24/7, though specific attractions within the square, like St. Mark’s Basilica, have set hours.
    • Tips: Watch for high tides that can flood the square, especially in autumn and winter. Enjoy a coffee at one of the historic cafes, but be prepared for steep prices.
    • Transportation: Easily accessible by Vaporetto to the San Marco stop.
    • Tours: There are a variety of guided tours that include St. Mark’s, often bundled with entry to St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace.

    Rialto Bridge

    Ah, the Rialto Bridge—a true Venetian icon. Built in the late 16th century, it’s not just one of the oldest bridges in Venice but also the most famous tourist attraction. Spanning the Grand Canal with a grace that only centuries of history can muster, it offers stunning views that are postcard-perfect from every angle. As you cross its stone arches, you’ll find shops lining the way, offering everything from jewelry to souvenirs. Stop, take the view, and watch as gondolas glide beneath you.

    • Best Time to Visit: Early morning for fewer crowds or at dusk for a stunning sunset view.
    • Hours: Open 24/7 as it’s part of the main pedestrian route.
    • Tips: Visit the nearby Rialto Market in the morning to experience local culture. Hold onto your wallet—this area is notorious for pickpockets.
    • Transportation: Accessible by Vaporetto lines 1 and 2, stopping at the Rialto stop.
    • Tours: Most walking tours of Venice include a visit to the Rialto Bridge, offering insights into its history and significance.

    Hop on a Gondola Ride

    Experience the magic of Venice without getting your feet wet. A gondola ride is like a floating love song, offering a unique perspective on the city’s iconic architecture and hidden gems. So, grab your partner and let the gondoliers be your guides on this unforgettable journey.

    • Best Time to Experience: Early evening for fewer crowds and romantic sunset views.
    • Hours: Gondolas operate throughout the day, but prices increase after 7:00 PM.
    • Tips: Negotiate the route and price beforehand. Share a gondola with others to split costs if you’re on a budget.
    • Transportation: Gondola stations are scattered throughout Venice, often near major landmarks like Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s.
    • Tours: Private and shared gondola ride tours are available, often combined with other experiences like serenades or walking tours.

    Doge’s Palace

    A magnificent Gothic masterpiece that was once the heart of Venetian power. Situated on St. Mark’s, it served as the residence of the Doge. Today, it’s a museum showcasing the city’s rich history and artistic heritage. Visitors can explore its ornate chambers, including the opulent Golden Staircase and the Senate Hall, adorned with intricate frescoes and sculptures. The infamous Bridge of Sighs, connecting the palace to the prison, symbolizes Venetian justice and intrigue.

    • Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid peak crowds.
    • Hours: Generally open from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM (hours may vary by season).
    • Tips: Purchase skip-the-line tickets in advance to avoid long waits. Consider a guided tour for deeper insights into the palace’s history and artwork.
    • Transportation: Easily reachable by Vaporetto to the San Zaccaria or San Marco stops.
    • Tours: Choose from various private guided tours around the city to get the most bang for your buck.

    Accademia Bridge

    A graceful wooden pedestrian bridge offers an unparalleled view of the Grand Canal. Its timeless design, blending seamlessly with the Venetian architecture, provides a picturesque vantage point for admiring the city’s iconic landmarks. As the sun dips below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the canal, the Accademia Bridge becomes a magical stage for a breathtaking sunset spectacle. The interplay of light and shadow on the water, the reflection of the historic buildings, and the vibrant hues of the sky create a truly unforgettable experience.

    • Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for quieter moments and beautiful lighting. Evening visits offer romantic views with the city lights reflecting on the Grand Canal.
    • Hours: Open 24/7 as it is a public pedestrian bridge.
    • Tips: The bridge offers one of the best panoramic views of the Grand Canal, including a perfect sightline to the iconic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Ideal for photography, so have your camera ready!
    • Transportation: Easily accessible by Vaporetto; use lines 1 or 2, and get off at the Accademia stop. Walking from nearby attractions like St. Mark’s or the Rialto Bridge is also a pleasant option.
    • Tours: There are many available walking tours of Venice that often include the Accademia Bridge. These tours provide historical context and guided exploration of the surrounding Dorsoduro district, which is rich in art and architecture.

    Other Unique Experiences in Venice

    Wine & Food Tasting Tour

    Venice isn’t just a visual feast; it’s also a culinary paradise! Dive into the delicious world of Venetian wines with an insider’s wine crawl that takes you to six different spots around the city. Savour the flavours of Veneto wines paired with mouthwatering local dishes made from fresh ingredients. As you sip and snack, you’ll hear fascinating stories about each neighbourhood and learn how to pick out the best wines like a true Venetian. Forget the tourist traps—this is your chance to eat, drink, and explore like a local.

    Carnival of Venice

    Imagine a city transformed into a fantastical realm of masks and mystery. That’s the Carnival of Venice, an annual spectacle that captivates the world with its opulence and intrigue. As the city’s canals and squares come alive with vibrant colours and elaborate costumes, it’s like stepping into a living, breathing fairytale. From the iconic Venetian masks (maybe even try making one of your own!), each with its own unique story, to the dazzling parades that wind through the city, every moment is a feast for the senses.

    Day Trips to the Islands

    Embark on a delightful adventure to the nearby islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello, each brimming with its own unique flair. Murano dazzles with its world-famous glass artistry—watch the masters at work. Burano will charm you with its vibrant, rainbow-hued houses and intricate lacework, perfect for those Insta-worthy shots. Torcello, the quieter, mysterious sibling, invites you to wander its ancient streets and discover its historic cathedrals. It’s a trifecta of Venetian charm that’s sure to leave you enchanted.

    Murano Glass Factory Tour

    Step into a world of shimmering beauty at Murano’s famous glass factories, where centuries-old artistry comes alive. Watch master artisans transform molten glass into exquisite vases, intricate chandeliers, and vibrant sculptures with breathtaking precision. The rhythmic clanging of tools and the glow of the furnace add to the mesmerizing experience. A visit to a Murano glass factory is a must, offering a newfound appreciation for the craftsmanship behind these stunning creations.

    Kayak the Canals

    Ready to explore Venice from a whole new angle? Jump into a kayak and paddle through the city’s historic canals on this eco-adventure tour. Expert guides will lead you through the watery arteries of Venice, sharing fascinating stories about the city’s history and culture. No kayaking experience is needed–you’ll be provided with all the gear and instruction you need. So, grab your paddle, hop in, and get ready for a splashin’ good time.

    What and Where to Eat in Venice

    Venetian cuisine is known for its seafood dishes and fresh pasta. Here are a few must-try specialties on the Venic food scene:

    • Risotto al Nero di Seppia: This is a Venetian delicacy – a black risotto made with squid and ink, giving it a black colour.
    • Baccalà alla Vicentina: A traditional Venetian dish made with salted cod, polenta, and onions.
    • Cicchetti: Small, Venetian tapas-style snacks that are perfect for sharing.
    • Prosecco: Enjoy a glass of sparkling Prosecco, a famous Italian wine produced in the Veneto region.

    Restaurants in Venice

    • Antico Ristorante Al Squero: Nestled along the Grand Canal, this charming restaurant offers breathtaking city views while serving up traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood dishes, especially the grilled octopus and the risotto with seafood, are highly recommended.
    • Trattoria Alla Madonna: This family-run trattoria in the Cannaregio district is known for its authentic and affordable Venetian fare. Their homemade pasta dishes and hearty meat dishes are a must-try.
    • All’Osteria di Santa Marina: Located near the Rialto Bridge, this restaurant specializes in Cicchetti, Venetian-style tapas. Their small plates are perfect for sharing and sampling a variety of flavours.
    • Ristorante Agli Artisti: This historic restaurant near Campo Santa Margherita is a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. Their menu features classic Venetian dishes with a modern twist, and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming.
    • Gelateria Grom: For a sweet treat, head to Gelateria Grom, a renowned chain known for its high-quality, artisanal gelato. Their flavours are made with fresh, natural ingredients and are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth.

    Where to Stay in Venice

    Venice offers a variety of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels. Consider staying in the historic center for easy access to the city’s attractions. Some popular neighbourhoods include San Marco, Dorsoduro, and Cannaregio.

    Aman Venice

    Located in a 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, Aman Venice offers a luxurious and intimate experience with opulent interiors, beautiful gardens, and impeccable service. It combines historic elegance with modern comfort, featuring original frescoes and chandeliers.

    The Gritti Palace

    The iconic Gritti Palace hotel boasts a rich Venetian history and a prime location on the Grand Canal, with stunning views of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Its interiors are lavishly decorated with antique furniture, Murano glass, and Renaissance art, making it a favourite for those seeking a truly Venetian experience. The pricey nightly stays are definitely worth treating yourself.

    Hotel Danieli

    Known for its regal atmosphere and located just steps from St. Mark’s, Hotel Danieli is a Venetian landmark. Its grand décor reflects the city’s historical grandeur, with marble staircases, antique furnishings, and luxurious rooms that blend classic opulence with modern amenities. The hotel faces the Venetian lagoon and is just a few steps away from San Marco, making it one of the most popular hotels in Venice.

    Belmond Hotel Cipriani

    Situated on Giudecca Island, Belmond Hotel Cipriani offers an exclusive and tranquil escape with breathtaking views of the Venetian lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. It features Venice’s only Olympic-sized swimming pool, lush gardens, and exceptional dining options, perfect for travellers seeking both privacy and luxury.

    Ca’ Sagredo Hotel

    A 14th-century palazzo has been transformed into the boutique hotel Ca’ Sagredo located along the Grand Canal. With its ornate ceilings, beautiful frescoes, and museum-worthy art collection, Ca’ Sagredo offers guests the unique experience of living in a piece of Venice’s artistic heritage. Each room has antique furniture and original works of art, making it a popular hotel among guests.

    Our Recommendation:

    We Choose Florence

    For us, Florence wins. After visiting both Italian cities numerous times, our heart is in the Tuscan countryside. Now, don’t think that this decision came easy. We love visiting Venice. But for us, the more laid-back vibe, the stunning architecture, no tourist tax (yet) and wandering through Florence’s city centre are what won us over. Oh, and the porchetta. In Florence, we’ve probably eaten one of the best sandwiches of our lives, and that alone may prompt us to book a flight there.

    So, what do you think? Would you rather go to Florence or Venice?

  • Your Off-Beat Turkish Holiday

    Your Off-Beat Turkish Holiday

    “You are living in Burhaniye? You know that here in Turkey we call Burhaniye the silent town because it’s so quiet and slow.”

    The shop owner was not kidding. Quiet and slow are two adjectives which describe the town perfectly. I would also add in hospitable and traditional. And we like it that way.

    When people ask us for advice for what to do in Turkey, our advice is simple. There are the big tourist spots that are not to be missed: Istanbul, Cappadocia, Ephesus, Pamukkale. They are annoyingly touristy but for a very good reason – they are simply stunning, and worth every amount of praise they get.

    But if that is all any tourist sees, then they haven’t really experienced Turkey. This incredible country has so much more to offer beyond the sights. There are so many charming people, colorful markets without vendors trying to rip you off, and giant, empty beaches just waiting to be enjoyed.

    So break away from the sheep path and forge a new trail. There are plenty of options to get a real Turkish experience, and we’ll introduce you to ours, in a tiny western stretch along the coast of the Aegean.

    Akçay

    This sleepy coastal town comes alive in the summer with Turkish (and some German) tourists. The boardwalk is the real draw, with plenty of seaside shops and restaurants to comfortably relax and watch the world stroll by.

    Ören / Iskele / Burhaniye

    If you are looking for a beach with a party, and more English spoken than Turkish, then Bodrum is your place. But if you are looking for a sleepy beach town, a gorgeous beach, and plenty of dining options, consider Ören. The town pretty much hibernates from October thru May, but on hot days the beach will still most likely be empty. Grab a couple of lemon Efes and spend the day soaking in the sun. At night, there are is one club in Iskele, or you can practice your Okey or Backgammon skills at many of the tea cafes along the waterfront.

    And while Burhaniye itself may not be the prettiest town, it has plenty of Turkish charm and delicious food available (and the best chocolate baklava we’ve ever eaten), at a mere fraction of the price compared to the rest of Turkey.

    Ayvalık

    The port town of Ayvalik might just be our favourite. It serves as an easy getaway to the neighbouring Greece via quick ferries to the island of Lesvos. On Thursdays, many Greeks and other tourists make a day trip over to take advantage of the relaxed but well stocked weekly market. And after a day of wandering through the maze of streets that house the market, there are many waterfront restaurants to enjoy an Efes and watching the fishing boats work in the harbour.

    Bergama

    If ruins are your thing, you will most likely be visiting Ephesus on your grand tour. Nearby Bergama should really not be missed. While the ruins of Pergamum are not quite as stunning as Ephesus, the setting is, as they are high up the side of a hill and tower over the town below.

    This is just one little slice of Turkey, there are so many other areas that we have yet to explore on another visit.

  • Green Bay Packers Pride

    Green Bay Packers Pride

    What is it about the Green Bay Packers?

    How is it that they are one of the most popular sports teams in the world?

    Sure, it helps that they have won the most NFL championships (13) than any other team, but there is definitely something else. The fans certainly have a lot to do with it. They have unparalleled amounts of pride and passion for “their” team.

    Look at the waiting list for Packers season tickets. If you apply today for season tickets there will be 100,000+ fans in front of you. Your great-grandchildren may have a shot at getting them and you had better hope they are Pack fans. There have been people on the waiting list since the early nineties and they still have 10,000+ people waiting eagerly in front of them. A spot on the Packers waiting list is so valuable that they are willed in family estates and highly contested in divorces.

    If you get a chance to see a Packers game on TV, look into the stands at the fans. 95% of attendees are wearing some sort of Packers garb. There are countless painted faces, symbolic cheeseheads and posters explaining why ‘they are the #1 fan’.

    But what I think is most important is the strong leadership behind this team. Vince Lombardi, one the most successful and popular coaches in history once said: “The dictionary is the only place that success comes before work. Hard work is the price we must pay for success. I think you can accomplish anything if you’re willing to pay the price.” The players routinely leave everything they have on the field.

    This quote has resonated with me for a long time, and I believe it is the reason I had the chance to see the historic frozen tundra of Lambeau Field with my own two eyes as our own hard work and passion had been instrumental in getting us there. I have no clue if in my old life I would have ever had the chance to see the Packers play, but this mantra led me down this path to do so now.

    When I was a kid I regularly watched the Packers on TV. I don’t know what drew me to follow them. My family understandably never watched NFL, being from a diehard CFL nation. I’ve remotely cheered the Packers to win two Superbowls (1996 and 2010). I’ve seen countless Lambeau leaps, the crazy body painted fans braving the sub zero temperatures and the great Packer players throughout the years. But to see them in person was a little childhood dream come true.

    Even though the game was a total blow-out and in a very chilly stadium, the fans were unrelenting. They cheered and bounced until the final seconds ticked off the clock, and the boisterous atmosphere was everything I expected it to be.

  • Arrivals and Departures: Train Travel in Europe

    Arrivals and Departures: Train Travel in Europe

    We left Novi Sad mid-morning. It was an uneventful departure – compared to the trip to Novi Sad from Belgrade – where I had misread information online and estimated our departure time almost two hours from when it was. We frantically stuffed our bags, erroneously bought one ticket instead of two, and wasted precious minutes sorting the situation. It was the kindness of a tall Serbian man who saved us from our ticketing blunder. “I have a sister living in Montreal!” he said as our initial chatter revealed our home country. In all of our years of travel, such connections have always been what most quickly bound us with strangers. He spoke on our behalf to the ticket counter attendant and we were soon on our way. We dashed into the near-empty train car, out of breath and relieved. Our train travel in Europe adventure was about to begin!

    In Novi Sad, with our Rail Europe passes in hand, there was no need for any commotion at the ticket office, and we instead filled the passes out while enjoying a leisurely coffee and watching the minutes tick down to our departure time. Our first-class tickets afforded us a gentle ride to our destination of Budapest, a city we had fallen hard for a few years past, and that which now housed two dear friends we were eager to see.

    Journey To Budapest

    Our next leg on our train travel in Europe adventure would see us ride the rails to Budapest. We arrived to Keleti station and felt oddly at ease as soon as we stepped out on the platform; the familiar rumble of luggage wheels over rough concrete followed us to the door. The majority of our travels over the years have been in perpetual chase of new destinations and new experiences, but on this European adventure, it was the “recognizable” that pulled us. I was surprised at how much we remembered. The station’s eclectic style made it one of the most modern in Europe when it was constructed; it sustained damage through the world wars but recovered to reclaim its role as the central portal to Budapest. The arched windows high above the entrance station cast long and curious shadows over the people who bustled in and out.

    I hid in the shade, away from the blistering Budapest sun, as we waited a few minutes for our friends to arrive. I watched as people came and went; long hugs were bestowed to both arrivers and departers. One woman, in particular, caught my eye as she waited by the metro ticket booths, with one nervous foot tapping that sent small ripples up her lengthy, canary yellow skirt. She clutched a small bouquet of assorted flowers and checked her watch frequently.

    I knew her party had arrived before I saw them because of the smile that erupted on her face as if she was suddenly lit from within. A child ran forth, maybe 5 or 6 in years, and encircled her waist with a fierce grip. Her travel companion pulled two bags, the familiar rumble reached my ears before they rested while she was handed flowers and gave an intense hug. Was it her sister? Girlfriend? I couldn’t know, but silently created my own story for them, as I tend to do when people-watching. Airports and train stations were among my favourite places in the world, for that exact reason.

    And in the next minute my own story in Budapest was about to unfold, as I saw our friends, who we hadn’t seen in two years, walking up to us with arms outstretched.

    Keleti Metro station

    Train from Budapest to Stuttgart to Paris

    This was going to be our longest journey with our train travel in Europe. Looking at the map, it seemed entirely doable. There are high-speed trains and all, I told Pete, as we plotted out our route across Europe. In my usual unplanning style, I didn’t bother to check actual distances and times. It turns out that it is a 17-hour trip from Budapest to Paris (high-speed trains and all). Not that many years ago, I would have done it with no problem. But these days? That was a journey of endurance that I was not willing to sign up for.

    We broke it up with a stay in Stuttgart, Germany. Given the ten-hour trip in, I was in no mood to explore the new-to-us city and turned into bed early. We were out first thing in the morning, leaving me with no firm impression of the city except that it was rainy. All I really cared about was getting to Paris anyway.

    We brought the rain with us. Water streaked across our windows as the train sped towards the capital city, one that we first visited as a surprise on our wedding anniversary. We returned to Paris a couple of times since, and always with the same fiery anticipation of romance that wowed us on our first time. This visit was a little different, dedicated to seeing clients and friends, but still under our lofty expectations of being similarly enchanted. We could not have arrived fast enough.

    At the Gare du Nord station, we shuttled ourselves quickly to the subway after weaving through this busiest terminal in all of Europe. From there, we took two different routes, hauling our bags up and down stairs, grimacing from being so tired after two days of travel. As I have many times in the past, I cursed Pete for not giving in to an easy cab or Uber ride. (He has a perpetual disdain of paying for taxis when we have two perfectly good feet to carry us onto cheaper subways. He forgets, sometimes, that my feet are not as perfectly stable as his are these days.) We turned into our hotel in Le Marais, and in the following days, we let ourselves be taken by the city again.

    On the way out, we did not make that mistake again and arrived back at the Paris-Nord station with ease. And thankfully so, as our day then was about to unfold quite differently.

    Gare du Nord train station

    Train from Paris To Maastricht

    We left in a panic. (See a trend here? We are terrible at organizing the ordinary paces of travel.) We showed up at the Gare du Nord in Paris with just a half hour to spare before our anticipated departure time, only to find that it was sold out. It is the busiest station in Europe, we discovered much too late. We reserved seats on the next train and waited out the hour in between.

    Arriving in Brussels with minutes to spare, we sprinted (as much as one can spring with heavy bags in tow), to catch our next train. What did that station look like? Neither of us can comment as our focus was on one foot in front of the other.

    We made it just in time and had one more stop between us and Maastricht. We had never been to Liège before and walked slowly off the train, mouths agape, upon our arrival.

    The station is a marvel. Finished less than a decade ago, it is made of steel, glass, and white concrete, contorted overhead in a giant wave that leaves striking layers of shade on the platforms below. The luminous sunny day ensured we walked in a Matrix-inspired world. Below the platforms is a buzz of commercial activity; I enjoyed coffee with trains zipping over my head while Pete ran around with the camera, furiously capturing what he could with the half-hour available before our next train.

    From there to Maastricht, a city we had been to several years before during a self-directed tour of the Netherlands. It’s not the most scenic we’ve ever been to, nor does it boast a diverse array of things to do, but we immediately sensed a romantic vibe and just went with it. In the fall, vibrant leaves scattered across the cobble-stone streets, and patios were full of people enjoying the last balmy rays of sun before winter came. A passing boat captain had even caught us kissing on a bridge as he passed underneath – he blew his horn and playfully wagged his finger at us as we blushed. It was a very memorable stay.

    Maastricht is not on many people’s ‘list’ but when sketching out our trip we both felt compelled to return. It would serve as the perfect rest stop between friend visits.

    The small train station, so many years later, was quiet and entirely familiar, but the walk down the main street to our accommodation was not. It was busier than we remembered; much more happening than we remembered. Across from our apartment, Pete procured the best Indonesian food we have had in a while, and then the best Thai the following day. (Don’t worry – snacks consisted of bitterballen and stroopwafel – we did indulge in the local cuisine as well.) It had grown in both activity and diversity, yet still felt as comfortable as it always had.

    Maastrict Train Station

    Train To Maastricht Amsterdam

    Our train travel in Europe continued with a trip from Maastricht to Amsterdam. Music festival-goers filtered in and out of the train as we neared Amsterdam. From what festival, we never figured out, but the carts of camping equipment, the attendees’ slow and sloppy stagger to the train steps, and the assortment of ironic t-shirts seen were dead giveaways to the event of the past weekend. That was us, many years ago, Pete and I both commented.

    The train ride was short and once again felt very usual. I’m not sure I can even count the number of times we have been to Amsterdam but it is several (including repeated visits to the Anne Frank House). We are always brought back by the distinct charm that this city holds, and especially by the friends that live within.

    From the platform at Amsterdam Central Train Station, we trudged down the stairs to the hallway that would bring us outside. There are only two ways to exit the station but we were suddenly trapped and confused. New (at least, new to us) barriers had been put up that only allow passengers to exit after scanning the cards that they had purchased to get on the train in the first place. With our Rail Europe passes, we had no such cards.

    I sent Pete down to the other side to see if we had missed a step while I waited with the bags. We had not. Passengers weaved around us as we stood in utter confusion until I finally spotted a kiosk labelled ‘help’ in the middle of the barriers. A friendly voice greeted us, and after I explained the situation, the small doors promptly opened and we were ushered out. Still shaking our heads at the sheer absurdity of this new system that doesn’t account for train passes, we walked out into the open air of Netherlands’ capital. We stopped for the obligatory selfie in front of the striking Gothic and Renaissance-styled facade of the station before finding the tram that would take us to our home for a few days.

    (Later, we would discover that emblazoned on the front of our Rail Europe pass is a QR code specifically to be used for exiting within the Netherlands’ train system. We’ll get this whole “travel” thing right one of these days.)

    The Best Way to Train Travel in Europe

    As you read above, we have a tendency to make things SO much harder than they need to be. Ahem. BUT, the one thing that worked very well for us all over the continent was our pass from Rail Europe/sold by Rail Europe. It makes train travel in Europe extremely easy and affordable.

    We had the passes shipped to us in advance of our European adventures. They allowed us to be flexible with our schedules and most of the time we could just hop into the first-class car without booking anything (although there were a couple of routes that required us to make reservations for our seats in advance which we typically did the night before). Having those passes in hand took away many potential headaches, and we travelled in first-class comfort while saving a few hundred dollars had we bought all of those tickets separately.

  • Skittles for Trolls

    Skittles for Trolls

    While the sun was still shining and temperatures moderate during our trip to Menomonie, we were eager to explore some of the outdoor attractions in the area.

    A quick look at pictures online for the nearby “Devil’s Punchbowl” assured us it was worth a visit, and then we found this article, which intrigued us even more.

    Unusual phenomenon have been reported but are unexplained – water that stays colder than normal and clearer than normal (despite the proven presence of bacteria). There have also been fairy sightings! Ghosts! And even trolls.

    Vengeful trolls with a sweet tooth, to be precise. For the website also states that the mystical creatures enjoy the candy Skittles, and that visitors who fail to bring such a gift have reported problems with their cars upon leaving.

    We decided not to take any chances.

    We entered the Punchbowl via very shallow steps, perfect for little troll legs, we supposed.

    We searched for footprints to no avail, possible tracks on surrounding trails were covered by thick layers of fallen leaves and twigs.

    The Punchbowl itself is quite an interesting formation. It has the appearance of a crater that has been sunken for centuries, with layered striations of sandstone, and green moss covering sections of the inner wall. The area is quite botanically rich, and despite the road that runs just overhead, is peaceful.

    Our vehicle started when we returned. Our simple offering must have pleased the trolls.

  • A Not-So-Typical Journey Through Europe

    A Not-So-Typical Journey Through Europe

    It was a rainy afternoon in Belgrade and we were sitting in our hotel room mapping our train route from Novi Sad, Serbia, to Amsterdam, Netherlands. Travelling by train is our preferred way to get around Europe – it is much less stressful than air travel, and it allows us to focus, get work done, and aimlessly look out a window and let our minds wander.

    Getting from A to B is a bit of a struggle because I tend to gravitate towards photo-worthy routes and always want to add on more days. Efficiency often takes a back seat.

    And I was especially challenged, considering we had just under 2 weeks with necessary stops in Budapest, Paris, and Amsterdam. Could we somehow also make it to Hallstadt, Austria? Or the Eltz Castle in Germany? Would a stop in Bratislava, Slovakia make sense? Could we swing south and spend a few days in the Dolomites of Italy?

    Our Train Journey Through Europe

    I had to accept that despite everything that Europe can offer a photographer, this trip had to be about finding the most efficient way. I resigned to the idea that all the additional spots I wanted to visit would have to be at another time. Besides, I couldn’t be disappointed in the stops we did make anyway.

    Belgrade, Serbia

    Our first stop and time into Serbia and we were quickly reminded how much we love the feel of the Balkan countries.

    Novi Sad, Serbia

    When the rains cleared up, I set out on a photo walk and found the city to be quite charming. Nestled on the Danube River, Novi Sad is quite busy and incredibly photogenic. The old town has numerous cobblestone walkways, mostly limited to foot traffic, and is lined with 19th-century buildings and numerous religious edifices. Across the river sits the mighty Petrovaradin Fortress that overlooks the city and is a popular spot for locals to enjoy a post-work beer.

    Budapest, Hungary

    Our sole reason for spending time in Budapest was to catch up with friends. Luckily, they also are avid hobby photographers and joined me in exploring the city and snapping a few shots. Budapest captured us the first time we visited in 2014 and no matter how many times we see the waterfront along the Danube, the chain bridge, and the Parliament Building, the city will always cause me to stop short.

    Stuttgart, Germany

    We decided to break up the long trip from Budapest to Paris with a stop in Stuttgart. It was rainy and dreary the whole time, but I took a chance for an early morning run and to capture some of the city before the locals rolled into work.

    Paris, France

    This was our third time in Paris, this time to see clients and friends, and yet again, Paris wowed us. With three days in hand, we wanted to relive some of the spots where we had celebrated our wedding anniversary years ago. We drank wine along the Seine, ate fondue until we almost burst, and walked as much as our legs would carry. My photo sessions mostly revolved around my morning run, just as the city was waking up.

    Maastricht, Netherlands

    Our return to this charming little city a couple of hours south of Amsterdam rekindled some of the magic we found in 2011.

    We travelled over 2,500 km on trains from Novi Sad to Amsterdam, and I came home with a few memory cards full of images I never expected. This time, I never made it to Halstatt, Eltz or Bratislava, and the Dolomites are still on my must-see list. But Europe can never ever disappoint. It’s the reason we love going over and will keep going.


    What made this train journey easy and less stressful was having a pass from Eurail/sold by Rail Europe in our hands. The global pass allowed us to be flexible with our schedules, was less expensive by hundreds of dollars, and most of the time, we rode in a first-class car.

  • Wisconsin in 7 Words

    Wisconsin in 7 Words

    We’re the un-planners, the un-assumers, the un-expecters.

    And when you visit many tourist-y spots, as we do, those titles can be hard to maintain. We’re up on travel news and many travel blogs such that there are few places in the world that seem unchartered, few stories remain untold.

    But with Wisconsin, avoiding knowledge on the state was easy. It is not heavily touted as a must-see tourist destination, and in fact, many were perplexed at our decision to visit for an extended period of time. Truth be told, we were attracted to only one aspect of it: the cozy log cabin in the woods with which to relax, decompress, and get some work done (it could have been in any state or province or country, for all we really cared). After being all-Europe’d-out and then spending a couple of months bouncing between family and friends beds, that was all we cared about. A tranquil, comfortable, snuggly space.

    Our house-sit in the woods absolutely delivered. And along the way, when we could stand to get out of our jammies and drag ourselves into town, we learned a thing or two or seven about Wisconsin…

    It’s Wild

    As in, wildlife roaming in the wilderness, and wild colours worn by the hunters who chase them! We have never before in our lives been exposed to such a strong hunting culture. Signs for a countless number of hunting lodges speckle the side of highways in an otherwise sparsely populated region. Our routine drives to Hayward always included at least one animal sighting. Hunter’s orange is all the fashion rage, and Pete was once scolded for walking outdoors without it (apparently, if you are shot while outside and you’re not wearing the appropriate brightly coloured clothing, the shooter is not at fault).

    Friendly

    These Midwesterners are an affable bunch. Our neighbours fed us, new friends ensured that we got a good taste of what Wisconsin has to offer, and a random hairdresser even doled out hugs after a half-hour session of bonding over clipping. We felt completely welcome and well taken care of during our time there.

    Quiet

    Aside from the frequent gun-shots during hunting season (see “Wild” above), we reveled in the startling quiet of our wooded retreat. It was the kind of silence that rings in your ears and takes some serious getting used to. But, because it was accompanied with matching tranquil scenery, we made do. 🙂

    Confused

    It was quite interesting to be in the US for last November’s election. Despite the computer generated phone calls five times daily from the likes of Bill Clinton and Clint Eastwood urging us to vote, we were happy to entertain questions from people we met about the health care system in Canada and our thoughts on American politics. It was even more interesting to see that the first ever gay senator was elected from Wisconsin last November. And then, on the other side, there is a Republican governor who somehow managed to survive a recall after a heavy corruption scandal. Wisconsin is a political puzzle.

    Wet

    There are over 15,000 documented lakes in Wisconsin, not to mention the shores of Lake Superior in the north, and the route of the Mississippi through the state. Fancy an endless number of places to swim, fish or kayak? Then you can find it in Wisco.

    Cultured

    Wisconsin is home to several famous artists – Spencer Tracy, Orson Welles, Georgie O’Keefe, to name a few – but that is not what I’m talking about here. I’m referring to the bacterial variety – that which makes all of the delicious cheese the state is so notorious for. We are sure that we ate our weight in dairy products, and then some!

    And Wacky!

    There is just so much weirdness. We discovered the giant fiberglass fish and the combination of pubs/wildlife museums, but there is still so much more. Like weird laws: at one time, margarine was illegal, and it is prohibited to serve apple pie in a restaurant without cheese. There is a whole section in the Huffington Post about weird Wisconsin news, and it includes such article headings as: “Paranomal Experts Say Ghost Probably Didn’t Punch Woman” and, “The Only Clown vs. Cop Brawl Video You’ll Ever Need”.

    Oh Wisconsin, we will miss you.